Mark Gregush
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Posts posted by Mark Gregush
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If there are no cracks, how about welding them then file to shape. How much do you plan on driving the car? The only time they turn is going around corners.
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VCCA also has a Facebook page run by that club; https://www.facebook.com/groups/50230437832/
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4 hours ago, Nate Dort said:
Yep, that thread came up in my search. The trouble is that I'm not seeing any modern spider gears with 12 teeth. Nearly everything nowadays is 7-10 teeth. Early 30s Fords used 12-tooth spider gears, but the size is different.
The Ford Model T and A used the same spider gears. While the gear on the axle was part of the same for the Model A, the T used a press on gear. If your spider gears look that bad got to wonder how the axle gears look? With bushings if needed, could you use the T/A spider gears and Axle gears from a Model T? That way the tooth count would match up between the two.
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I would think that trying to use it in the transmission, it might have a hard time reaching places like the cluster gear bushing or bearings. Don't know but just a guess.
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Just now, CaffreyEST said:
Thanks, photos are actual, the model in the picture is my vechile.
Great! Still, people in the USA are not going to know YOUR market or what upgrades you are thinking about, would bring the most bang for the buck over there. Best of luck.
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Location Location Location! Guessing because of the samples your show, you are not in the USA. If that is the case, think we would be hard pressed to know what that model's market would be in your location. You might be better served looking for a chat room or forum that deals with cars of that vintage/model closer to your location. Posting actual photos of your car not some found on the internet would add credibility to your questions as we would not be able to value something that we can't see anyway.
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17 hours ago, Douglas S said:
Just starting to reassemble the engine, 1917 Dodge.
Breakaway torque specs were 75 ft lb on Connecting Rods. Front main was 110 ft lb while # 2 & 3 were 75 ft lb. I used 75 ft lb on all 3 mains and plasti gauged clearance readings were 0.003 - 0.004. Am I in the right ball park?
I would suggest 40 to 45 on the rods, 75-80 mains sounds about right for all three mains and .0015-.002 on the clearance for rods and mains.
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On 5/6/2017 at 6:09 PM, cahartley said:
When using a torque wrench with slotted nuts the rule is if the slot doesn't line up with a hole to back it off to the nearest slot......NEVER tighten more.
Don't know where you got that rule, but you should never back off to line up with the hole on a torqued fitting. Or did you mean back way off and start over just bring the nut to where it lines up with the hole and slot? The best is to remove the nut and try another or as suggested above or take a little off the bottom and try again.
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Number is not going to tell most of us anything. What year? Front or back? How about fixing your post and add that information using the edit button. Most of us call them just backing plates.
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Jan I was just about to post (and still will) one of your post from "Fake"book. (LOL)...: Facebook
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On 4/8/2024 at 4:56 PM, Don Jr. said:
I solicided info from other members with this year Dodge. Engine is snuggled right up to firewall and body bolt holes are a bit elongated so I fit up front fenders to be sure they were in the correct position. Front fenders have to bolt down to the running board irons sticking out on each side.. Then I put bolts along each side to the end of the front tub where the body was cut off to make a pickup bed. I then bolted the rear tub up nice and square to the rear most holes in the tub down to the frame. I installed the rear fenders to be sure they were hung correctly and mated to the rear most running board irons. Then I quickly mounted the side splash aprons to be sure they will connect up.. Snugged them up too. Hung the rear doors and as I said right rear Door fits well in the opening but the damn left rear doors is wonky a bit. Pinched at the top.maybe I can loosen the hinges of the door and fudge it in.. I measured both sides of the front and rear tubs to a predetermined location To be sure everything is square on the frame. Very tedious work so going slow as I do not want to butcher those lower body pieces that are hard to find. Thanks. If you get any measurements on rear door openings would like to see how close I am before I cut things up.
as bad as things line up with the WRONG rear tub when it was installed, anything I do going forward has to be better even if it is off a little. The front tub seems to be in correct location, have not looked real close. If I work from it back, should be ok. As can be seen in the photos, the part under the doors on both sides are pretty messed up. I have not checked yet, but if the same area under the tub that is on the car now can be robbed and used, I will use them.
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22 hours ago, Buzz68 said:
Mark
Send me a message here or on Facebook I share pics off my 20
Bob you should have my email address. Thanks for the offer. If you can post here that would be great or send to my email.
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Once I get the area below the doors somewhat worked out, will be doing about the same thing, mounting than going from there.
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Model 30 is a term we don't use; it was something that a parts supplier started from what I have been told. We would need to know what year as a place to start helping.
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When I got my 1920 someone along the way had started grafting on the wrong rear touring section onto it. The were trying to fit a 15-18 type. The doors close but nothing else matched up, it being a couple of inches narrower and lower, so anyway, found a rear tub at the Portland Swap Meet today. The guy said it was the 22. The openings for the doors are curved at the bottom so should fit the 20. The area under the doors is messed up, has the required bullet holes and is missing the seat riser but other than that, metal looks solid so something to work with. Happy to pay the $50!
Can anyone post a photo or two of the rear seat riser for the 1919 to 23 touring, that would be helpful to see what is missing.
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8 hours ago, Dan Risley Sr, said:
What is the price and where are you located ?
The location (East of Portland Oregon along the Columbia River) is shown in the eBay listing and is marked as no shipping local pickup only and price is in the listing. The person that posted the link may not be the seller and was just helping by posting a link to parts that are available.
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Personally, I would do a really good clean flush job before putting Evaporust in, it does not work well with any type of grease, in fact, if you read the package it says that. You are trying to get rid of rust, it's not a grease cutter. Don't know how well it works on lime and scale.
6 minutes ago, Buick35 said:someone said to solder it
Yes, solder is used for radiator repairs not brazing.
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The master parts list does not show the mounting brackets, just has them listed in parts. Sorry can't be much more help.
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What exactly are you needing? Your post on Facebook shows it with brackets in place and a rim. Facebook
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The rim itself looks to be standard rim. The upper brackets could be made if you are handy, that would leave the lower one to find or make. In late 1922 (around 647065) the bracket design was changed to hold the tire higher. The Master Parts List shows the three brackets as line items, but the rim is not shown as separate screen/panel item (that I could see).
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Through 1919 the Ford Model T used leather pads, 1920 went to spring mounts for the radiator.
as bad as things line up with the WRONG rear tub when it was installed, anything I do going forward has to be better even if it is off a little. The front tub seems to be in correct location, have not looked real close. If I work from it back, should be ok. As can be seen in the photos, the part under the doors on both sides are pretty messed up. I have not checked yet, but if the same area under the tub that is on the car now can be robbed and used, I will use them. 
Something I've never seen
in General Discussion
Posted
Sure there were, Chevrolet had small deliveries sure there were others. Here are some samples or 46 Chevrolet; 1946 chevrolet van - Search Images (bing.com)