bpolson

Thanks everyone.

Anyone know what car that is on the right? Seems to have gas cap in the cowl.

I see vintage spark plugs on ebay too -- $5 to $50. I see someone selling this same one for $15 now - just 1 and no box. Someone will want this - especially since you have the box.

This post has inspired me to set up my turn signals as well. There were some already mounted on the car, but nothing else (just some cloth wires with about 1' pig tails). They appear to be color matched to my car, but I know nothing else. Does anyone have any idea what these are? What's most typical for the setup in the car itself (I have 27-54). On the column? If so, do you run the wires through the column? I see these 6 Volt column mounts on e-bay using a hose clamp and cringe.

thanks for the info. I'm in the process of correcting my 'issues', but I want it to be drivable also.

I was surfing around looking for ideas for my 27-54 and found this add. They are claiming 4310 produced, 7 remaining? I'm thinking the 4310 seems right, but not the 7. Is there a place they would have gone to look for these numbers? Any truth that the 54 was 'the Doctors Roadster'? I thought that was for coupes.

Thanks guys!

I found this in the compartment that runs along the back window of my 27-54. Seems to be left on purpose. Does anybody know what this is?

I'll probably put my transmission jack up front sort of like Rod does above.

Thanks all. I thought it should be fine. Looks like I should be careful in that it could be front heavy.

I have a lift in my shop and was planning to elevate my 27-54. A friend cautioned me about doing so, saying the frame may not be stiff enough. Anybody here have any trouble using a lift on the older cars? Seems like it will be handy given all the grease fittings under there.

That's good guidance. Mine has very little movement of the distributor - not ever enough to notice by ear. BTW - this is a beautiful car - with beautiful pictures - but I'm not learning too much about hand throttle setup on this picture {right hand drive --- sheesh} https://www.favcars.com/buick-master-six-sport-roadster-27x-54-1927-pictures-353163.htm

Yes - a good read. Seems I learn something on every post.

Thanks again all. For the hand throttle, I found this - a little more expensive but should be easy to install: https://www.amazon.com/Climax-Metal-H2C-018-Collar-Finish/dp/B000P0OE6Q/ref=sr_1_29?dchild=1&keywords=two+piece+shaft+collar+3%2F16&qid=1586448578&sr=8-29 On the timing advance, everything is free enough - my disty turns fine. I think there is something off about the linkage between the base of the steering column and the shaft that runs along the firewall behind the engine. The arm on that shaft is pointing down on Hugh's picture above, and mine points up (see last picture I posted). that's probably where I'll start my troubleshooting. Thanks again.

Thanks all. The A-pillars were off a little before I added the pads. Now they measure perfect. Distance at the top is exactly the same as the board in the top - and the diagonal and the distance from the center of the cowl to each tip are all exactly the same. The window measures 1 1/4 " different in the diagonals - which I confirmed with the paper cutout. All a bit hard to communicate, and I'm probably not doing a good job. One side of the window seems to follows the contour of the a-pillar very well with a consistent gap - although perhaps a bit larger gap than the layouts above. The other side of the window does not follow the contour at all. I have no explanation. My frame is a bit different design than the ones shown above - being a 1-piece window. Seems like I'll need to cut out a section of material, bend, then re-connect, then remeasure. It might be a job for a body shop at this point.

Thanks again Hugh. Makes sense now. I need the item labeled 'back clam'p'. I can come up with something to make that work. My setup is a bit different for whatever reason. My throttle rod has a much bigger curve in it. Note that it runs above my add-on fuel pressure regulator, so that's not the issue for the sharper curves. Seems to work so I'm OK here. Also, it seems my spark advance rod connects much differently. However, it doesn't seem to rotate the distributor very much. I think this is wrong too, but perhaps something for another day.

Inspired by Hugh's note on another thread that the hand throttle should make the floor pedal go to the floor, I thought I'd take a closer look. My hand throttle seems to move nicely, but doesn't more the floor pedal do anything. Shown here seems to be the most logical point the linkages should be attached in some fashion - and I assume I'm missing a part. If someone has a pic or diagram of how these are connected, it would be appreciated. Thanks.

OK - my pads for the A-pillar (stantions) came yesterday and I put them on. After that - they were perfect. Measured true to each other and the center - and fit the board perfectly that goes across the top. However, the windshield still fit the same. Measured the windshield itself and ... crap. Seemed wonky, so I traced it out on a piece of graph paper, carefully noting the center line and keeping things straight. Spot on the corner is where is 'bangs' against the A pilar. Then I folded in half, basically confirming my measurement. Flipping this over, the other side (non-hatched) shows what needs to be shaved off. Now, I just need to figure out how to do that. Suppose a body shop will be able to sort this out? Any advice is appreciated.

Is there any pressure in the system? Let me know if I'm wrong. The bottom of the cap seems to have a little spring to it - but it can't be much as it sits. Not really a 'gasket' there. I filled up the radiator (a couple inches from the top per my manual) and went for my first drive (10 miles). It didn't leak out the cap at all. Temp was good until I shut it off - but it bled coolant on my shop floor through the tube - perhaps a pint. Looking for a 'sanity check' here and perhaps a good source for a proper fresh gasket. Thanks.

Here is a picture of the air filter I mentioned above installed. It fit perfectly - was inexpensive - leaves plenty of room if I want to install the heat tube later - and is the general shape/size/color of the original.

OK - I took some measurements - the OK of the intake is closer to 2 1/4". I'm going to give this a try. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ufi-up4245

Thanks again Hugh! I do like the sock - but I'll probably try to wrap it around the original can, which allows me to keep an original part on the car as well

Pooch - what are the details behind that filter? Looks good. Did you need to adjust the carb or re-jet? I'd like to do the same. Hugh - The Superlube you mention seems to be for food machinery. I'm trying to figure out the 'steam cylinder oil' mentioned in the manuals. I searched and came across Mobil 600w - which seemed like the closest thing. This oil is very high viscosity (close to 400) when cold, which explains why it is hard to shift the transmission cold for sure. Not made for something changing temperatures. Are some guys using plain old 75w90?

There are no model plates or plates of any kink on the cowl. There is a plate on the frame (1712606) inside the passenger front wheel well and a plate on the engine near the steering box (mostly illegible). Here are some additional pictures as requested.

WOW - thanks everyone. Super helpful tips. The car is missing the model plate, but it was registered as a 27. It has rumble seat, golf bag door, and 128" wheel base, so I assume that means it is a 54. I have little history of the car, but I do know that when it changed from CA to NV registration they changed the registration (VIN) number. I suppose the year could be wrong year on the registration as well. Let me know if there is another tell-tale sign of 27 vs. 28. Sounds like - as Hugh indicates - these are the wrong design A-pillars for the car either way. I'll probably try to get them straight before I worry about the hourglass rubber pieces. I do have a Bob's catalog now, so I think I'm ready to take this on. Perhaps I'll order a model plate from Bob's as well ...