jw1955buick
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Posts posted by jw1955buick
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Not really sure where I’m at with these adjustments, got as close as I could with trying to make sense of the shop manual, please look at the pictures see if action and position of fast idle cam and the choke parts looks like it should
first picture, car is cold, nothing happeningsecond, I’m holding choke valve open
third, throttle pulled all the way on
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Thanks all, and any length of reply is always welcome, the more information the better. This color is a little darker and has more blue than a Brewster or British green, those are more olive with yellow toner plus black which muddies it up, very close to Dodge truck dark green of the 40's
I was the color matcher at SW auto for years, I'll just do what I always have to do, go to the store, get the closest chip and start making adjustments from there.
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A fleet chart, ok, is that just general color chips that you have a paint store add to for your desired color or are you saying the fleet chart might have that exact color intentionally?
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Looking for a modern formula in either acrylic enamel or urethane for that 40’s International truck dark green, exact color pictured, I know the auto color library has it but I’m hoping someone here has done it with their local paint shop to save a few bucks, thanks
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This is it, decent, restorable shape or better for a reasonable price, thanks
Must have that T in the middle
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Welp, the Metering rod bar was in fact backwards, I guess that'll throw off the vacuum piston geometry or doesn't let the rods seat properly or who knows, it just works one way only.
so now it starts good, doesn't foul plugs and idles better, not great but much improved
thanks all for the sage advice
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A few reasons, they work great as a sediment bowl and a filter all in one, the fewer splices the better in any fuel line
the application it’s going on is a truck I’m resurrecting, guy did the tank about six years ago then pretty much never drove, it does run barely and drive, it’s got a cheapo plastic filter on it now
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That's what I was thinking, just find something that makes it work
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Bought this, no spring thing though so we’ll
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Thanks all for the ideas, I guess I’ll be buying new
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Where can those be found to fit this or paper is fine, I need it for my ‘47 dodge which is a beater, just need it to work
or would it just be cheaper/easier to buy the whole thing repop for $25 ?
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Got two of these, came with my’55 Buick special, neither had any stone type or material filter of any kind, looking for anything that would just function for this, I don’t know how you’d secure something in there
I’m hoping someone has a fix
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Great year! Jim McMahon, Walter Payton, the FRIDGE!!
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It’s handy that I’m taking guitar lessons, I used a bit of that string to probe everything I could find, my choke pull off adjustments are getting better as I’m understanding the terminology in the shop manual, floats are now within a 16th of spec, that’s some stressful stuff bending those things
I don’t know how to test the accelerator pump without installing it and running it which is fine, just takes time
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Ok, so metering rod situation is correct
seems like I need to go back over all the adjustments again from start to finish
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So I’m not a good carb rebuilder apparently, I’m not getting a good squirt of fuel when actuating the throttle linkage, I’ll get one squirt and not a good one then bubbling and dribbles
when it’s warm and you try to start it, acts like it’s out of gas so fuel is not getting in steadily for sure
I found my float level is too low so work to do there, also is there supposed to be a spring under that vacuum piston that controls those metering rods? That T shaped rod bar is all the way up all the time with that spring underneath it, that’s how it was when I took it apart so I put the new provided spring back in there, something about it doesn’t seem right, that little hook on the accelerator pump shaft seems unnecessary with that spring in place
I realize these are all very basic questions, I’m trying to learn this stuff
and there’s plenty of fuel in the glass bowl the whole time so I don’t think it’s fuel delivery issues to the carb
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Haha! I knew someone would point that out! that's the before picture.
Have a set of those NGK's that guys on here are running and some 45 or 44r's from CARs, can't remember the exact number
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I did all that, total carb soak and rebuild per shop manual, I did everything but pull the shafts and remove butterflies, used the kit from CARs, it's possible that a piece of something is in there of course but unlikely considering that I went through the entire fuel system.
It's improving as I go, it now at least stays running at 500 just not smooth, installing clean plugs over and over not knowing how quickly they foul and affect the idle, as always, it smooths out for the most part with increased throttle.
Any thoughts on choosing to time for max vacuum vs timing at the 5 degree mark per the manual? Pros? cons? terrible idea?
What's the original location for the distributor advance vacuum source? Pictures??
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Frank, that makes sense, so where should I splice in the vacuum gauge?
also I blew air through every tiny idle circuit hole I could find when I rebuilt the carb, pump, fuel line, tank all clean on start up, glass filter bowl is clean, no sign of any sediment anywhere
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So the vacuum source for the distributor is a nipple at the base of the carb between the mixture screws, this is how I inherited it.
1 is this the factory vacuum source location for this setup
2. If not, then what? And how and exactly where would you obtain the right source of vacuum to put a gauge on it?
it does have vacuum wipers with a line to the bottom of the two part fuel/vacuum pump
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Ok, I stink at tuning, always have, every old car I ever had ran too rich and was hard to start, this one is no different
whats been done: rebuilt 322 with some type of RV slightly lumpier than stock cam, no info available, rebuilt carb, new coil, cap, plugs, wires, points, condenser, fuel pump, vacuum lines
the rebuild was 8 years ago and driven very little because of electrical issues that were never resolved, something draining the battery
so I rebuilt the carb recently, replaced most ignition components, checked the gap in the points, timed it to 5 degrees, mixture screws out one turn, problem is it still runs rich and fouls the plugs, is hard to start when cool even with choke closed and seemingly working, sounds like a slight miss or vacuum leak
so compression is good and consistent, put a vacuum gauge on the port between the mixture screws, plugged the vacuum advance on dist, warmed up the engine and the gauge is showing 28 steady but when I kick down the throttle to around 500 rpm the gauge goes to 8 and stays there unless you get back in the throttle, I get no real change in vacuum by moving the dist unless I move it pretty far, mixture screws make no difference in idle even if turned all the way in
seems like a vacuum leak from what I’ve read but I can’t figure out where it would leak at, checked all hoses and fittings
the plugs always seem to be fouled so I feel like I’m in some time loop that I can’t get out of, don’t know if that port in the carb is the right place to measure vacuum but I don’t know where else you’d put it unless you drilled a fresh hole in the intake
help please
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I’ll find out
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Just need for my spare, needs to be complete with the ring, a good straight wheel as the exact one pictured
reasonable, thanks
Tuning ‘55 322 issues
in Buick - Post War
Posted
How do you get this out, messing with a super thin screw driver to try to pry it but that’s not working, any tips are appreciated