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Posts posted by CTCV
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I appreciate your input and I see your logic. I guess I think most people would have researched values and know what to expect. This car had a fairly extensive restoration about 10 years ago. I consider it a driver not a show car. Since I do agree with your assessment of buyers I would sell it for 9500.00.
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I have found that regardless the price you can justify interested people will offer less. Anyone committing to buying a car on pictures alone would be foolish. The car is for sale , anyone is invited to come see it, drive it and make an offer. But thanks for your input auburnseeker.
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On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 10:35 AM, Mark Shaw said:
I have a jar full of lug nuts.
CTCV; Are you saying they are 7/8" across the flats?
Please confirm & I will check.
I am using data from Bob. He may have some for me. I will double check mine and see what comes from Bob and get back to you. I still may need one or two. Thanks for helping us out. I'll be in touch.
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2 hours ago, Robert Engle said:
All 1932 wire wheels used 1/2 X 20 7/8" hex. Any 1/2 X 20 lug nut should work. They are inside the hubcaps so they are not seen. I can give you all the specs if you want to make some on a lathe. I think I have one or two spares if you need them.
Bob Engle
It seems I can find the 1/2 by 20 but not the 7/8 . The ones I find seem to be small on the outside measurement. Ultimately I can make them but so far I have been lucky with folks that have parts to sell. I think I have at least three on each wheel that are correct. Any you can part with will help.
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I have owned this since 1991. Very good condition. Runs and drives great. Transmission is the 700R4. Interior better than most. Headliner has a few small issues. Dash has some cracks. Front filler over the front bumper suffered from sun and has deterioration, will need a new one. Never smashed and very minor rust spots. I did install new door weatherstripping but did not glue them. I did not glue the because I thought I would get to restoring the car. I can send more pictures to interested buyers. I would like to get 6500.00
Thanks Tony
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19 hours ago, Robert Engle said:
While the parts manual lists different cables for the large series, The Specs and adjustments manual states that they are all the same. If you want, I can send you a good 50 series cable. If the length is different, you could make adapters to increase the length, or you could make the rod it attaches to longer and move the bracket on the frame forward to make it work. Just cover the shipping cost.
bob Engle
I sure would like to give it a try. Measurements seem the same and ends look the same.
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1 hour ago, Robert Engle said:
1932 Buick headlamps are the same for all models. I have some extra headlamps. They are disassembled now, and it will take some time to sort out all the small pieces. I have two nice drive quality buckets. Unfortunately , I think I only have one lense. I have two good reflectors and front bezel. I will need to find the wiring connectors and the diecast part for the badge bar. I do also have a good badgebar. If you are interested, I will see if I can get a pair assembled for you. The Stanchions that the horns and lights attach to are different for 50, 60 and 80/90 cars. I only have a pair of 50 series stanchions. I can post photos tomorrow.
Bob Engle
Thanks for the info about the all 32 headlamps the same, that's good to know. I would welcome any pictures. I would not want to use top quality parts on this since it was drastically modified before we got it. I know the badge bars are fragile and expensive for the repro. I will most likely make my own.
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Looking for headlights for 1932 model 97 Buick. Probably just going to paint them so they do not have to be perfect. I may be able to make the parts that mount them to the fenders.
Thanks
Tony
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5 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:
Now that you have run it for a short while, it will be full of condensation. Make sure you inhibit it now; assembly won't take just a month.
Actually I intend on having it assembled in 3 weeks. But I do welcome your thoughts on reducing the condensation. Recommendations?
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On Monday, March 11, 2019 at 6:38 PM, Morgan Wright said:
Publish the video so we can see it
I thought I could post a small clip here but this site doesn't allow videos.
We are uploading images to our school website soon. I will let you know when and how to access.
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At first crank we noticed an advanced timing condition so stopped cranking. We then rotated the distributor to full retard and it fired right up. We pre- pressurized the oil system so oil pressure was up in under 4 seconds. Ran smooth as silk. And we did video the start.
On to the reassembling.
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Here is where we are as of today. See pic. I am not sure how well it will run but with the enormous assistance from those of you around the country I am sure it will run. This coming week we only need fuel in the carb and a hot to the coil. Once it starts we will proceed to the reassembling of the body. Hopefully we saved one more Buick.
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Oh WOW ! Didn't see that coming. Never seen those pans when I got it.
Thanks Bob, I will have to get to Hershey again and see if I can get to see them in person.
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9 hours ago, Robert Engle said:
I believe you are talking about the rear mount for the engine bay side pans. The pans are bolted to the bottom flange of the frame, Spring attached at the rear to the flywheel cover and the front is bolted to the crossmember. Diver side is a 2 piece pan bolted around the exhaust pipe. I'll take photos of my 32-58 tomorrow morning and post them. These pans are frequently missing as mechanics didn't feel like working around them. A 1/4"x 20 hex head bolt goes down through the spring and bolts to the pans.
Bob Engle
Sounds like we are on the same page. I would appreciate the photos. I did notice a piece of tin around the the bolt you mentioned but the rest most likely rusted off.
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Keep in mind my 32 Buick sat in a Salvage Yard for over 35 years and before that not sure. It is a model 97.
On the bottom of the flywheel housing is a half moon cast iron cover that takes four bolts. On the drivers side there was an "L" bracket about one inch by one inch with the bolt hold on one side and a small hole for a spring that goes to one of the pedals. On the other bolt , drivers side , is a similar bracket bit it has a spring with about four coils that attached to something. There is a matching one on the passenger side. I have no idea what attached to these springs. Can anyone tell me what went on these springs?
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I strongly suggest you convert to a dual reservoir master cylinder. Not very difficult and much safer. I did mine on my 65.
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Albert Sr , since I found all the parts for a complete engine I prefer selling everything together as an engine. I have been told different values for everything from 700 to 2500. I will get casting numbers next time I'm at the shop.
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Looking for the flexible brake cable for right front wheel. 1932 Buick 90.
Tony
65 Thunderbird for Sale. Base model.
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
I don't like loosing money on a car sale but I do assess the enjoyment factor so I did get my fair share of enjoyment. I'm making a few changes so I am selling a few toys. I appreciate you recognize the work that went into it. I am the only one that drives my cars so they have very few miles. My 2009 Honda just turned 50k miles, my 92 Harley 20k miles, 2006 klr650 6k miles.