CTCV
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Posts posted by CTCV
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Thanks to all, great info. I am a bit surprised that in the list from Pete the main drive gear that engages the cam gear is not listed. Did that have options based on engine size? Are they available?
Tony
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These used to be listed with Mac but not sure if any are still available.
Also I would appreciate any info on all gears pertaining to the generator. My understanding is the generators may be the same with the exception of the rate of spin produced through these gears.
Thanks
Tony
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Mr. Earl
Where is that BUICK Station you have pictured in your posts?
Tony
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6 hours ago, MrEarl said:
Boy that sure would look cool parked in front of the Buick Sales and Service garage!
It sure would Mr Earl.
Rebuilding my generator now and in a week or so I plan to drive it to the original "Johnnies Garage" and take some photos.
Tony
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9 hours ago, B Jake Moran said:
Somewhere along the line you found a crane job for the back.
Ya know what Jake ? Sometimes I really get lucky. Maybe I have good karma. Two roads over from my house on a road rarely traveled I found it laying in the weeds. Still has the Manley Crane tag on it. Yada ,yada, ...i inquired and found the gentleman that owned it was also in education at a point in his life and with my great appreciation and a small token to his friend to help load it , it was mine. Small town in America ! Can't beat it.
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Well I am back.
Hope you are all well and if not for covid I had hoped one day to meet you all.
We got a bit more done with the only disappointment being that the original students that began the project have since graduated and did not get to see completion....whenever that will be if ever. The "originals" really had to fight against the possibility their work would be pointless since they did see the engine when removed and never believed it would ever run again. Back then I wasn't sure myself. But as mentioned in earlier posts younger generations don't seem to have the same mechanical understanding as us ole folks.
I did run into a few out in the community and showed them video of me driving the it and they actually lit up as if they can now say it was not a waste of their efforts.
Still not done but it is now titled, registered , insured and legal. I will drive it locally to check for issues but if all goes well i am hoping to get it to a show in Allentown and Hershey this year.
If anyone has some common concerns to keep in mind with making those long drives let me know.
Thanks
Tony
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Hi Donnie
Funds received. Thank you.
Tony
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Donnie
on it's way. I just threw both in the package, no need to return one. Maybe you will have the opportunity to help someone else out with the one you don't use.
Good luck
Tony
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Hey Donnie
Just need to show you something. Never noticed before but the openings look to be two different sizes. Not sure if it is wear or was front door to back door. Check this out and let me know. Marked 1 and 2
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Hey Donnie
My picture is not great. Can you tell me which one. There are the first two on the left that are complete. I guess one looks silver. The first one is looking at the back , the second is looking at the front, the third and fourth parts were together but the guts were broken and taken out.
So from left to right lets call them 1 - 2 - 3 & 4. My guess is you want #2 the one looking at the front.
Just send me your address here or in a PM. When you get it just send me the shipping when you get a chance.
Tony
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Here are some parts from my 1932 Buick 97 I will not be using. There is also a spark plug cover from a different year I picked up but it was too short for my 344.
The stuff is rough but maybe it can help someone. First the part i think is a heat riser or has something to do with that is cracked and butterfly is rotted and frozen. All the pieces of the cracked housing are here except a very small piece that completes the outer of a bolt hole. Half the hole is on the casting. #124870? a number 7 above.
There is the oil cooler parts , the tin is rotted through but I know i can restore it so I'm sure others can too. The inside unit has a pin hole somewhere in the core. Fuel sending obviously does not work. Rod ends for the brake adjustment rods, one has a short stud(broke off ) There are door latch parts , they are pitted. I was going to paint them to save on chroming but decided to just make new entire doors with modern latches. The spark plug cover in very good shape just not sure the year or engine but I can tell you it is not for mine. Air cleaner not bad but does have some pitting and a few vents are not perfect. PM if you can use something.
The Buick oil cooler tin....If i were to restore it back to near perfect what could it be worth?
FUEL SENDING UNIT AND THE TWO COMPLETE DOOR LATCHES ARE GONE.
Thanks
Tony
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32Buick67 >>>>>> OH YES IT HELPS !
Thanks, thanks to all.
Tony
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Harry it appears at least your center case is very close to mine. The thermal switch with the resistor wire looks identical to mine, i just do not have the resistor wire. Can you confirm which wire goes to your third adjustable brush. Is it a field wire or the wire to the cutout
And thanks for everyone's input it my get me my output .
Tony
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Not sure if the information I want is listed anywhere. I have the 1932 Buick Spec. and Adj. book but I was looking for some better info.
Some of you may know this generator it is a 940 T1. Some say if you touch a positive lead to the 3rd brush wire and ground the case it will spin like a motor. If it spins the generator is good. That does not tell me how good.
The generator is a three brush with an internal thermo switch (contact points with resistor bridge) mounted to ground. It has a cutout switch mounted to the case exterior. Two field windings in series in the case. Now to my questions.
I never had the resistor that bridged the thermo switch. What is/was it's OHMS value? What is the correct/good OHMS resistance of the field windings?
A wire grounds the brushes mounting plate to the main part of the thermo switch which best I can tell allows either direct ground when cold and resistor ground when hot. If the main brushes are on a plate already grounded to the case by contact how does the thermo switch even play a part? Don't both main brushes have a direct path to ground just by contact of the mounting plate?
If there is a generator schematic out there I would love to see it.
Thanks
Tony
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9 hours ago, 32buick67 said:
Don't forget to use 7018 AC rods!!
Please inform me on the advantage of the 7018 AC rods. I used a MIG with standard wire and C-25 gas but would still like to know about those rods.
Tony
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This in mine. VIN 1C3CJ51E
Normal wear and tear. Lower body in front of rear tires repaired at some time prior to my ownership. Runs and drives and stops well. Turbo is working fine. 128K miles. Automatic
In NE PA.
Had also listed it on a Market Place that I don't know if I am allowed to mention.
$1950.00
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The vin is on the dash and door sticker and they match. The car shows no signs of front end damage so just assuming the hood is original. Here is the sticker. Hood color and underside colors ar
e correct to the car. I see no signs someone turned this into a turbo from a normally aspirated. Does this sticker help identify anything?
Tony
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Personally I did repair a cracked exhaust manifold. I followed recommendations from several forum and posts and modified as I thought necessary.
1. I drilled 3/16 holes at each end of the crack.
2. "V" grooved the crack at a fairly steep angle. About 1/4 inch wide. I used a cut off wheel.
3. My goal was to open the crack to about 1/32 of an inch at the bottom hoping the weld may catch on those edges.
4. I purchased a large galvanized oval feed bucket or tub. I filled it 2/3 with sand and put it into an out-door fire place / smoker. Yeah I know where are you going to find that? I got that sand pretty hot. Took about 2 hours.
5. I had access to a pizza oven. I heated the manifold to 650 degrees.
6. I had my MIG ready to go. Took the manifold out of the oven onto the welding table, welded from the holes first stitching to the middle. Cast is dirty so I had to occasionally wire brush and continue welding. Had someone grab the sand bucket as i was finishing.
7. Put on welding gloved , dug a trench in the sand and buried the manifold. Threw welding aprons over the top.
8. Left it buried for 24 hours.
So far it is good, no leaks and no cracking. Not the prettiest but worked.
Tony
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I have a 1987 Chrysler Lebaron Premium Coupe VIN 1C3CJ51E1H
The sticker under the hood says 2.5L
The badging on the side of the car "Electronic Fuel Injected TURBO"
According to the VIN "E" code indicated 2.2
I believe this is a Turbo 1 engine.
Very early 87 year manufacture date.
SO MY QUESTION - 2.2 TURBO-1 OR 2.5 TURBO-1 OR OTHER
Thanks for any help
Tony
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THIS IS AMAZING !
First the fact that someone had the foresight to save all this information.
Second that those same visionaries make time to review these forum with the intent to help others.
and third that you , and you know who you are, are so complete and determined to make sure you provide the best information when ever possible.
Doesn't it just make you feel like you have friends all over the world?
Thanks for all the data. A bit too cold for me to tinker with now but it will all come in handy soon enough.
Tony
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My apologies to the forum. After re-reading my post I did not mean to suggest that the forum advise regarding the addition of an electric fuel pump was inaccurate. Some mentioned one would be required to prime the carb and others to supply enough pressure to run. In my case, after a couple weeks of sitting I manually prime the carb.
Tony
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Hey Larry
I might have the info you need. If I am right I am running a 1975 to 1978 Rochester 2GC Rebuild kit 2-5419 NAPA.
You should know that this may not be the best as for fit and linkage but it worked for me and the price was right. The base plate and adapter is the key. One issue with the one I am using is that those years had all kinds of hoses and ports for vacuum so if you are going to use it buy a pack of caps for the ports. Also the fuel line enters from the front but many earlier ones enter from the side.
Additionally I had received advise from the forum that an electric fuel pump would be required to feed the carb. I am not running one so this setup seems to work. See carburetorcenter.com
Tony
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On 12/31/2021 at 10:58 AM, dibarlaw said:
So glad to see the progress! What downdraft carb are you using? A friend is doing a flipped manifold for a 1931 90 series Sport Coupe.
Happy New Year!
Larry
Larry i have to check but if I am correct there are two common base plates on the Rochester 2bl carbs. I have an AutoCAD file my brother and I designed that can drive a 3D printer or CNC. The file creates an adapter plate that allows the installation of any Rochester with the one specific base plate to the Buick. Personally I am running an adapter made by a 3D printer (plastic) because my engine never exceeds 145 degrees and the intake manifold seems to stay well below that. I think the carb I am using is 70's to 80's. Just one a friend had laying around. Let me see if I can dig up the rebuilding kit I used to teach carb rebuilding to my students. That should have a number we can cross reference.
Tony
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Not the latest picture but with it further along. I did install new rear leaf springs so the vehicle sits a bit taller in the back and can carry a 1000lb on the crane without much sagging. Not that I will be towing but may use it to pull an engine. I added a hydraulic ram from a cherry picker and the crane is on pivots so I can stand the crane straight up or lay it down, in addition of course to the hoist itself.
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e correct to the car. I see no signs someone turned this into a turbo from a normally aspirated. Does this sticker help identify anything?
WTB Distributor drive gears (1 Worm 1 Shaft) 1932 Buick 90 -344 Dual Point
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Hi Dave , a fascinating setup and I am familiar. Although I was talking about distributor gears, when I saw the parts list that seemed to begin with "generator 940 T1" I guess I thought the helical gear on the front of the gen. would also be in that list.
I don't have any manuals on this so I have to ask here to solve questions in my mind. Or use mathematics if possible. I was trying to confirm my belief that the drive and driven dist. gears are the same in both generator that I have. Member input verified they are the same. I concluded that they would have to be a 3:1 ratio and they both are. Leaving the only other gear to consider for correct timing being the helical on the front. I would then have to conclude that Buick changed the helical gear depending on application. I would be interest in how many different helical gears were utilized with this gen. , part numbers and did they list them by no. of teeth for identification.
I'm just trying to get backup parts together in case I break down in my travels. Extra Gen. ,Dist, Water pump, starter all that stuff.
Tony