CTCV
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Posts posted by CTCV
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All great information. So is that to say that all dual point distributors of 1931 and 1932 will fit and engage the same generators with the only issue being that the timing advance would need to be calibrated to the specific engine?
I am looking for a 662 90 series distributor. But I do have the ability to make or modify advance weights and springs. With your new information it seems I can get any 50 series distributor and modify the advance to the correct specs.
Is that correct?
Tony
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To my knowledge the generator in all series 1932 Buicks are the same. 940 t1 is in my 90 Series. My distributor is the 662. Not many around. 50 series 660's are around and are dual points as the 662.
So my question is....What specifically are the differences? Can't be the gear since it meshes with the same generator. Difference in advance weights ???
Anyone know?
Tony
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Send me an address and Ill get it off to you.
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On 12/10/2021 at 6:24 PM, Przemek M said:
All 32 series of Buick use the same generator. Pete Phillips from this forum has few of them for sale.
Distributor is different in series 50.
Regards
Przemek M.
That is great information to have. Thank you for your time and knowledge I will try to contact him.
Tony
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I would like to buy a starter, generator with distributor, water pump, hubcaps, tail lights and hood if anyone has them laying around. This is for a 32 Model 97. 344 engine. Wheels are 5 on 6.5 /18
Thanks
Tony
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17 hours ago, TheHotRodBuick said:
Hi Tony . I'll take the door apart this weekend and have a good look. It should be the one on the left. Ill take a look .. I believe I have 1 tail light in a box somewhere.
Ok , these are the only ones I have so if neither is the exact arm you need but the quadrant (I think that is what they call the teeth section) is a match I can cut both plates (your original and mine) one inch below the teeth on the same radius and weld my teeth to your plate. But lets keep our fingers crossed. My guess is you have the same skill level to do the same. It is possible that both quadrants on my arms are identical so if you decide to replace just the teeth section onto your quadrant I'll send you both. Just in case you have a mishap need a spare.
Tony
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You should notice they are two different items as far as the arms. I have a 32 Series 90. I am not sure which is front and which is back. Can you take a picture of yours?
Also I have two lenses for my car but because they are hard to find, and mine are near perfect, I made fakes to put on my car and store the originals. I cannot see parting with them as I think it is best they stay with my car. But I can provide pictures and measurements.
I am in need of Buick tail lights if you have any.
Tony
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I will have a look and see if the window regs are still here. I have 1932 series 90 headlight lenses and can measure them if you like. They are not flat in 32.
Tony
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I would like to buy or trade for 4 - 1932 Buick 90 series hubcaps. They do not need to be perfect they just need to stay on. I do have a spark plug cover for an old Buick but not sure what year. It is an 8 cylinder firing order. It has a pair of vents at each end and does list the valve clearances. It is 30" overall length and 15 1/4 inch center to center on mounting holes. In very decent shape. If I can trade.
Thanks Tony
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16 hours ago, Jim Nelson said:
Welcome to Buick insanity. My 35-50 series had one of three sizes in 35. The 35-40 series had (all 5 bolt). a 5" bolt circle. Measure center to center 40 series measured 3" center from one to the next. Mine is a 50 series and has bolt to next bolt of 3-1/4 " spacing for a 5-1/2" bolt circle. Their 60 series had the 6" bolt circle. It also, on their 80 series, MAY have had a 6-1"2 bolt circle. Buick was having a cost issue in manufacturing - standardization ? ? duh - - -
A Fire Department in KS has a fire engine back sitting on a 90 series chassis. I saw it had different wheels. Came to find out many years ago someone had made adapters to attach 16 inch steel wheels to the hubs.
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Yeah the son is in his 80's and the Johnnies business began about 39 and then ended by 41.
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After a long search i have found the son of the original owner of the converted tow truck. Here is the original door and Yellow page ads of the Business and the company that most likely hand painted the original Johnnies logo.
Wasn't sure where to post this but hope you find it interesting as I do.
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The issue for me at this point is how to measure for bolt pattern. On 5 lug I knew it to be outside of one stud to the center of the other. (after skipping one) If this the accurate procedure for KH wire wheels then I am getting 5 on 6.5 which i see no listing for that size. 1932 90 series Buick info says 5 on 5.
What am I doing wrong?
Tony
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I still have the windshield parts in this image. I do NOT have the heat riser/ carb part. The parts I have are from the top 2nd one down ( wooden part with gears and knob on other side) it functions. 3rd part down is the frame that holds the glass itself with the two slots that engage the pins on the previous geared mechanism. 4th part down is the windshield trim. Stainless.good condition just a bit of rust residue. 5th part down is the vent door with the handle and knob. That's what I have. All three windshield items must buy together. All parts are from 32 Buick 97.
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I know the pictures would help but I did not have one til now. I will take more soon but this is one for now. The interior is surprisingly very good. Not a barn find but it was under cover on concrete floor. The beauty rings are in the trunk. I have not tried to start it and will not until I can prime the oil system. Been sitting about 6 or 7 years but may have been occasionally started. Not sure. 93K original.
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I have acquired a 76 Grand Prix. I do not know a heck of allot about them but this one has a 400 engine.
I would say it is between fair and good condition. Interior is nice. The original owner had it painted at some point but I do not know when but the technician (and I use the word loosely) apparently did not believe in purchasing the molding clips at the rockers and screwed right through the moldings to attach them. I could barely even get that out of my mouth without getting sick.
Anyway car is complete otherwise. Any Pontiac persons out there that may want to place a rough value?
It was kind of a barn find but I'm not going to even buy a battery until I'm convinced it is worth it.
Tony
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Ok Matt call at your convenience. One bit of good news. I found the guy that had the original headlights from the 32 and I bought them this morning. Little wiring work and some bulbs they will be back on and up and running.
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5 hours ago, Robert Engle said:
In the end result, it comes down to a willing buyer and a willing seller. It's a tough business to buy antique cars and expect to sell them for a profit. Some people see a car and fall in love with it and are willing to pay what's needed to own the car. The other thing to remember, almost any car, except one off a quality restoration will require some $ to get it into a good running condition. New tires, tubes and flaps for the 57S will cost $1,500.
Bob Engle
These tire prices are silly when you realize you will throw them away before you wear down 1/32 of tread. No way I was going spend that just to hold something off the rims. I'm rolling on Lexus RX350 spares. They don't have the same outside diameter but everything else works fine. AND 4 for 90 bucks. I spent more on the tubes.
Tony
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Thanks for the link Mark.
I'll tell you what I have concluded was the misfire issue. The original points in the distributor were the type that had an all metal base plate and an all metal contact arm. One set had an insulating thin washer under the arm on the pivot pin keeping the arm and base plate separated. I believe I was shorting out and dropping 4 of the cylinders. Regardless the accuracy of my tuning that misfire was not going away. The new set of points have a nylon arm and no way to short to the base plate. Runs like a champ now.
A little info about my motor. 344 , head and block surfaces cut down and running the thin gasket. Original cam has a custom grind. Custom pushrods and new rollers on the lifters. Of course bored and new pistons. New timing gears, water pump impeller, gaskets etc. I believe my compression should be 15 or 20% higher than the stock HC . 45 psi of oil pressure and temp does not seem to get over 165 no mater what. One day when I have the guts I want to see how it handles at 60 or 70 mph.
Thanks again.
Tony
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I know this is an older post but just in case someone needs the info.
I had my set made by Manton Push rods. Any length and any ends you want.
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I am new to the Pre War Buick stuff so I would not be the one to ask from the collector value. I have always valued vehicles first by price paid divided by potential miles driven. This is where the collector value comes in because some of the best restored vehicles are not driven much and those that buy them certainly don't plan on driving the wheels off.
My Buick is no where near the quality restoration as this 57 but I plan on driving the wheels off mine. Some buy new 100k cars and drive them 20k miles then sell them for half. That's $2.50 a mile. I plan on getting my investment out by miles driven. If i get 30k miles out of mine and junk it for $0 I'll be fine. If someone buys it , it will all be gravy.
Back to the 57. I think folks are going to have to just start driving them and getting that value. Then after getting about half the investment money in miles you don't feel so bad about selling in today's softer market. Hopefully by the time you rack up 40k miles on it the market will be stronger. Best of luck. Sorry I did not have a number value.
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We are up and running. Dual points were a bit tricky but running great.
Had an odd timing issue I thought funny after solving. I adjusted the points to what I thought should be correct. The engine had a bad stumble. Adjusted again and the engine smoothed out. This is prior the first drive in probably over 60 years. Went for a ride everything sounded good , smooth running , just a small stumble on acceleration. Took it to maybe 30 MPH. Trans good. Rear good. Brakes good. Back to the garage. Inside i seem to smell raw fuel. Just thought the carb was too rich. Decided to throw the timing light on and the light is not flashing. I thought my light was bad or wouldn't run off the 6volts. Eventually I decided to put the sensor clip on the other spark wires to find out only four were firing. Replaced both points with new. Fired it up sounded smooth but different. And no raw fuel. Took it for another ride. Ah there comes the torque. Really need to have all 8 banging. 45 on a high idle.
Tony
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View our progress. 32 Buick Tow Truck
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Not the latest picture but with it further along. I did install new rear leaf springs so the vehicle sits a bit taller in the back and can carry a 1000lb on the crane without much sagging. Not that I will be towing but may use it to pull an engine. I added a hydraulic ram from a cherry picker and the crane is on pivots so I can stand the crane straight up or lay it down, in addition of course to the hoist itself.