GCC

Lots of ways to approach this, but there is no drop-in, out of the box solution. Here is what I did with mine in case it's helpful.

I did this last year and it was difficult to track anything down. The only thing left available that I could find is Centric 602.62052. I ordered from CarId, looks like they still have them here, $10.46 each. You'll have to reduce the diameter slightly and use a spacer as described in other posts. The simplest spacer was just to push out the sleeve from the old bushings and cut off the necessary length.

Thanks for the pointer. I did have to adjust a little to allow full travel. The handheld only shows 88% at full throttle, and maxes out there even without any bracket attached. According to the documentation, anything between 85 and 100 is fine though. I did find that the throttle rod was a little preloaded at rest since I couldn't adjust it any shorter. I ended up cutting off the top tab of the bracket and welding it back on flipped 180 and angled towards the front (I think this was what you were suggesting in your thread). The re-configuration takes care of the preload issue, and the rod travel stays a little lower and out of the way of the plug wires.

Yes, white custom interior, which is original and in great condition. The paint was originally midnight blue though. Repainted black at some unknown time in the past.

I just copied them inline with the text and it looked fine when I posted, and even after. I guess I was hitting the attachment limit size though. I shouldn't have assumed that the forum would manage the photos. I'll post some resized images.

Thanks for the heads up about the air cleaner hold down. There is no rod included with the kit. I used the one that came with the new air cleaner. Cut to size and threaded in by hand until I felt resistance. Haven't experienced any issues.

Hmm, strange that it looks fine for me. I didn't notice there was a max size on attachments. I'll try downsizing and posting in a couple of batches. Here is the first set. I tried to keep them in the same order described in the original post. *Edit: Fixed photos in original post. Removed from here

I just finished installing a Holley Sniper EFI on my 65. I have been considering doing this since rebuilding my original carb two years ago and still not being able to get things dialed in the way I wanted. I think a lot of the problems I was seeing were due to the previous owner running without the steel plate under the carb for too long, causing corrosion on the base of the carb. Anyway, another big thanks to RockinRiviDad for the post last year, which was invaluable in solving a few issues, particularly the throttle linkage. Here is a bit of a write up with some lessons learned. It appeared the the tank had never been out of my car, as the original undercoating spray was all over the tank strap mounting bolts, making it impossible to back them off very far since the top is just a lag bolt in a slot. I had to carefully cut through the bolts with a die grinder using a mirror. I decided to also install an in-tank pump, and as part of doing so also started with a new fuel tank from BestOfferCounts. I chose the returnless Holley Sniper module Part# 19-360. This requires cutting a 3.25" hole in the top of the tank, which I tried to locate in the area near the existing fuel sender hole with the least amount of indentations. I didn't realize that a vent tube runs all the way and of course the hole saw cut right through that as well. I looked like I had just shortened the tube by a few inches, and the fuel pump has its own vent, so I just bent the ends out of the way and kept going. The tank depth at this point is 7.25", which is the minimum listed for this pump, but I didn't have any issues with depth. It could probably get another .25" to 0.5" shorter without problems. The instructions for cutting the hanger and pickup tube were terrible. I recommend directly measuring the pickup tube plus pump plus filter sock depth directly, then cutting the metal hanger to match. I test fit this a couple of times, starting longer than necessary, and shortening slowly until the pickup was positioned just above the bottom of the tank. I re-used the original fuel sender, but only for the guage. I cut off the pickup tube, and the reason I chose to cut the hole on the left side was to avoid the float position. Here is everything ready to go in. Here is the finished assembly under the car and ready to strap in. I ended up having to drop it back down again to fix a couple of issues after once I got everything else together. The 1/4 NPT fitting on the pump outlet requires thread sealant or it will leak. I used RectorSeal #5 since it was available locally, although Permatex Aviation #3 was also recommended to me. You'll see some foam spacers in the photo that are needed to allow the pump to clear the underbody. These broke the grounding of the tank and the fuel guage. I had to run a direct ground from one of the fuel sender bolts to the chassis to get the fuel guage to work. The fuel pump wire is run through the trunk and down the channel behind the rear seats and along the door channel through the firewall to the engine bay. And here it is secured in place with new bolts. Plumbing the fuel up to the engine bay was the next challenge. Used hard line to -6 AN adapter, and the appropriate barb to -6AN on the short length of hose from the pump to the hard line. I found the hard line to be clean and in good shape, so did not replace it. I tried the same thing at the front hard line connection, but could not get the adapter to seal due to the short length of line beyond the bead. Instead I simplified and just pushed more hose down past the bead so that it could be clamped on directly. I replaced the old fuel line with the new EFI hose along the stock routing from behind the front wheel and through the frame rail and spring mount. I scraped a few knuckles on that operation because the EFI hose outer diameter is larger than original, but it can be done. I placed the new fuel filter in the stock clamp on the thermostat housing, although it is a little bigger and requires some bending of the clamp. I used the front fuel inlet on the Sniper to keep closer to stock routing, but didn't make the last connection until after flushing the fuel line into a container. If you use the inline fuel pressure guage as I did, make sure to use some thread sealant on the NPT threads there as well. I had a tiny drip that needed to be sealed up. The plumbing of the vacuum lines was pretty straight forward. Note that there is a plugged port on the front of the Sniper throttle body that can be used to connect the EGR, rather than trying to tee it at the back. Next was the wiring, which honestly was simpler and smoother than I was expecting. No issues encountered there, although I still have not figured out what to do with the touchscreen inside the car. Just pulled through to the glove box for now. On to the throttle linkage. Have a look at RockinRiviDad's excellent instructions for modifying the available Holley extension for the throttle rod and kickdown. Here is mine ready to go. Note the temperature sensor mounted on the back of the driver side head in the above photo. This requires removing the plug with a breaker bar, and using a 1/2 NPT to 3/8 NPT adapter to mount the Sniper sensor. I left the stock temp sensor in the front of the passenger head. The surface temp read a little lower (10F) at the back location with an IR thermometer, but the actual coolant reading on the Sniper was the same as the surface temp at the thermostat. Next job was mounting the O2 sensor in the exhaust. The Sniper comes with a clamp on O2 bung, but I preferred welding it in, so bought a weld in steel bung, and mounted it on the passenger side. I thought there was enough room in the location I chose, but it proved to be tough to see what I was doing in there. It might be better to mount it a little lower. Anyway, a little work with the welder and a mirror, and it's sealed up, but not pretty. After that, some wiring clean up and it was ready to go. I could not re-use the stock air cleaner unfortunately, so I bought a cheap open element cleaner. Since I used the front fuel inlet, I also needed to use the Sniper drop base Part# 120-511. I may try to later modify the bottom of the stock air cleaner with that drop base so that I can use it. I will follow up with that if I go ahead with it. I needed to update the Sniper firmware to be able to run through the startup sequence, but after that it fired right up and idled well. I made all of the recommended idle adjustments, but I'll wait for some nicer weather before I get it out for a drive. If I discover anything else through the tuning process, I'll be sure to update.

And here is the closest I could get to before and after stance shots from the same location. Same camera placed at the same position on my work bench, although the pan angle is a little off. This is from stock original springs to 1" drop.

I haven't posted much, but have certainly made use of the posts here over the last couple of years. A big thank you to others for sharing, and I wanted to start documenting some of the work I have done in case it is useful for the next person to go through some of these jobs. Last winter I rebuilt the suspension and brakes on my 65. This post was extremely useful for selecting front end parts without having to order multiples and then return stuff. Not a whole lot to add, except to point out that the advice to offset the upper control slightly towards the rear made it possible to get the desired amount of positive caster. I also spent more time cleaning and painting than disassembly/reassembly. A before and after. Note that I went with 1" drop springs and Bilsteins from Jamco when they had them on sale. I was happy with the parts (except for the useless bump stops), but wouldn't recommend ordering from them if you are in a hurry to receive things. I also found a deal on the Wilwood front disc conversion, and did the master cylinder upgrade at the same time. I didn't find a lot of love for the Wilwood kit here, but hadn't seen any feedback from anyone who had actually installed it. I found the install straightforward, and have been very happy with performance so far. The rear suspension proved to be a lot more challenging, mainly due to the control arm bushings. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread on the subject. Unfortunately, the parts listed there are no longer available from any suppliers. I searched a long time, and was almost ready to give up and bend over for the rare parts bushings, when I found an alternative for $8.72 each. Centric 602.62052 is the part you will want to use now. The instructions for modification in the thread still hold, although for spacers, it's pretty easy to just press out one of the old bushing centers and cut off the required width to use as spacers. Removing the bushings, even with a shop press was not simple. The outer metal bushing sleeves just collapsed on two of them and had to be cut out. The lower control arms also wanted to collapse as I tried to press out the bushings. I partially boxed the arms, but I still needed to weld up a little shim to slip around the bushings to be able to get them out without damaging the arms. The only thing I couldn't do myself was alignment. Once done, it rides and handles like a completely different car, which is not surprising considering most of the parts appeared to be original.

Yeah, I use an iPhone, and later found a little note in the manual saying it would not work with iPhone. I'm guessing the USB port uses the old spec (0.5A max I think), whereas most chargers provide > 2A of current these days. You may find that your phone charges slowly.

I upgraded the stereo in my 65 last year, and went with the RetroSound Hermosa, which I have been very happy with. No mods needed for the dash, but the black plastic bezel that goes around the face of the head unit needed a bit of filing top and bottom to fit in the dash opening (Yes, the bezel pushes in from the back side). The hands-free microphone is mounted in the empty center slot between courtesy and antenna switches. I had also originally mounted the USB/3.5mm Aux into the cigarette lighter opening, but later found out that the USB port is purely for audio input, and will not charge a phone, so I ended up removing it, as I use Bluetooth for music streaming. The front speaker was replaced with a RetroSound D-412, which fit pretty cleanly. The back tray already had 6x9's installed in it by the previous owner, so I didn't have to feel bad about cutting into it myself. I may hide those in future. I did also manage to fit a 6x9 subwoofer(https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w69-1042j-6x9-subwoofer--264-837) into the rear center speaker opening. This required more work, with a bit of hammer massaging of the metal brace behind it, and a wooden adapter ring to mount the speaker to the back side of the stock speaker cover. I should have taken more pics of that process, but it is invisible once complete.