Pfeil
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Posts posted by Pfeil
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23 hours ago, TexRiv_63 said:
Following, also interested in experienced replies.
Following as well, thanks guys.
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6 hours ago, TimFX said:
It really is about lowering the rpm’s at the end of the day.
Ill look into the companies suggested to see if they have something for my Olds
No, it depends on where the sweet spot your engine likes it best for any given circumstance(speed/load) and for every different type of engine that sweet spot is different.
In driving a car with a CVT you can really see this formula at work. In one of my newer cars when I'm at 3000 ft. and the terrain is flat, I set the cruise control to 71mph and the engine rpm is 2100, my mpg is 42mpg. A slight incline may produce 2300 rpm to maintain 71mph and milage might go down to 39mpg, however now this is the new sweet spot given that extra load from that hill. CVT is the only trans that instantly adjust optimal engine speed and engine power to any given situation or load. If I floor it to pass another vehicle, the engine will go to the point where the maximum engine horsepower intersects the engines max torque and holds it at that RPM/Torque, at a steady state until the job is completed, which in my cars particular case is 6200rpm, all the while the trans is constantly adjusting the ratio so that that max engine hp and torque are in that sweet spot, something a car with a gearset can never really accomplish, even a 10 speed automatic. Thats why a CVT is a true constant variable transmission.
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Just a fast Wikipedia search produced this,
First described as "pants", they were used for the streamlining effect by Frank Lockhart on a 1928 Stutz land speed record attempt car. Factory production of fender skirts began with the 1932 Graham-Paige. Aesthetically streamlined designs were copied to mass-produced models.
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Automotive perspective.
I have a stock deluxe 1964 VW beetle, 1200cc 40hp with a 4th gear of 0.89 and a final drive of 4.375 to one.
I have a stock 1965 Euro Standard model beetle 1200cc 36hp with a 4th gear of 0.80 and a final drive of 4.43 to one.
If I use a newer transaxle, say a 1967 beetle with a 53hp 1500cc with a 4th gear of 0.89 and a final drive of 4.125, neither of my two cars would be able to cope on hills, the key to their problem is they don't have enough torque to get the job done.
When I look back at my dad's 1940 Pontiacs rear axle ratio it was 4.30 to one, there was an economy axle option, but it still was a very deep 3.90 to one. That was Pontiac's optimal mileage axle!
Then looking at my dad's 1950 Pontiac with a straight eight with a very deep rear axle at 3.90 to one.
When I look at a stock 1962 Pontiac Catalina with a 389 2bbl automatic we are looking at an engine that produces 405 ft lbs. of torque so it's easy to see why Pontiac equipped this car with a 2.69 rear axle ratio.
Try to get this perspective around your head. These guys that built these cars already did the calculations.
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19 minutes ago, Marty Roth said:
My older cars go fast enough as designed.
Seeing America Slowly makes sense to me.
We use overdrive to reduce engine revs.
For example, the 5.08:1 differential ratio of our 733 Packard Touring is effectively revised to 3.55:1 via the Borg Warner unit. Despite that, the car is still surprisingly comfortable and capable at modest backroad touring speeds, and I don't need to keep up with the "Soccer Mom" in the Mini-van/Crossover/CrewCab F-350 who is speeding, texting, and swatting at the unbuckled curtain-climbers and rug-rats in her charge, all at the same time.
"My older cars go fast enough as designed."
Seeing America Slowly makes sense to me.
Make perfect sense to me. How about I follow you to a nice place for lunch, perhaps a small mint julep and then some club sandwiches and a coffee? As long as I can keep up with your train of thought and not the rest of the idiots on the road I'm doing just fine.
Thanks for framing it Marty!
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On 8/10/2023 at 12:58 PM, carbking said:
Started this thread because a similar thread (the "holy grail" thread) piqued my interest. What would be your list? As these lists would be personal, there are NO wrong answers. I am curious to see other response. Note that I am in the carburetor business, and my list are carbs that all I would need to do to sell one is place it for sale. Before I had finished listing, the phone would be ringing off the table. Price on several of these would run into 5 figures. All of them would be 4 figures.
My list of top 20 rare and desirable carburetors:
Stromberg UU-3 (Duesenberg race only)
Carter 3636s (trap door NASCAR Pontiac
Rochester 7029273 (1969 RA IV Pontiac)
Rochester 7041273 (1971 Pontiac 455 HO)
Stromberg EE-3 1 3/8 (Duesenberg)
Stromberg EE-3 1 5/16 (Packard 12)
Stewart Model 25 for the 1928 Victory 6
Detroit Lubricator dual for Packard 734
Carter 3593s (NASCAR Chevrolet)
Rochester 7040256 (Olds W-30)
Holley R-1536 and R-1599 (supercharged Ford / T-Bird)
Rochester 7010600 (Pontiac 2x4)
Carter 407s, 408s, 488s (Graham)(488s is so highly sought after, I reproduced 2 of them)
Autolite inline 4-barrel (Ford racing)
Stromberg EX-32 1 3/8 (supercharged Auburn)
Zenith brass 105D (Stutz)
Riley (aftermarket sidedraft)
Jon
I know your feelings on Pontiac Tri-Power, do those same reasons hold true for the 1966 tri carb Olds, 406 3x2 Ford and Mopar six pack?
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190 for me, on my 60's water cooled cars. Early 70's cars (1971-1974) those were the years we were trying to EPA certify cars for emissions. Those pre catalyst years were difficult because we were trying to do everything on just the engines so everything was about thermal efficiency or maybe just beyond. Many G.M. cars of that era had 205-degree thermostats. My 1976 Olds, with catalyst, per factory uses a 190-degree thermostat.
The image below is from Phil Andrews on the Pontiac section of the forum, 1951 Pontiac Chieftain. Today we would be looking a normal range. In fact, if you had a GM product that had idiot lights from the late 50's to mid 60+ you would never know your temps were this high. 1959-1970 Pontiac hot temp light comes on at 246 degrees.
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2 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
I took this picture right before the last time she was in the garage.
Caught in the act of burying parts from the shop.
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38 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:
After a comment she made on Wednesday and a lot of thought I told my wife she is not allowed in my garage until she learns the difference between a backlog and hoarding.
And what did she say? How about, " Honey you know where the couch is". OR.....................V
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5 hours ago, DFeeney said:
The picture speaks for itself
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Your radiator is going to have a hard time of it.
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The headliner may be the only thing compatible with all the "A" bodies of 1950, and that includes Olds 88. The seats (standard & deluxe) material and door panels style / trim / patterns are different. You might be able to get seat material and door panels made from SMS.
SMS Auto Fabrics - The Largest Selection of Classic Auto ...
BTW, Jetback is a Buick term. Pontiac's term for the fastback roof is Streamliner. Also, Buick Jetback is a "B" body car.
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Painful to look at those cornering shots in the pictures. If only Pontiac had employed negative roll steering.
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2 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:
I would think that maybe they'd ponder if any of the cars would really last a long time- "modern" cars produced in mass volumes like these had only really been in production for about thirty years- certainly long enough to see a lot having gone to the scrap yard by then- the idea that they could be in use 70+ years on would be nothing but a pipedream.
You are now living that dream. How lucky you are!
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10 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:
Just been driving the heck out of the car. The more it's driven, the better it drives.
Held 175-180F all the way regardless of speed; had it up to 65 for part of the way which is really motoring (3000rpm).
Considering fitting an under-dash air-conditioning unit because man, driving in 105° summer heat is just plain warm. Sweaty. Yuk.
You can see how hot it's been, my inspection sticker is peeling off the screen!
Phil
Imagine, the guys that designed and put that car together all those years ago. I'll bet none of them could imagine someone like you enjoying this car in 2023.
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13 minutes ago, Bloo said:
Some of them sure did! Not all of them, but it is a question of which ones, and I don't know. They were plastic in 1970.
The failure I described above is well known and common. 352 implies an earlier engine, but I don't remember what year they stopped making them in favor of the 360. 1967 maybe?. I'll bet there are some 352s out in the wild with plastic sprockets.
The early setup @Laughing Coyote pictured also had a spring loaded puck holding the cam in place instead of a bolted thrust plate. That setup is not interchangeable for a whole bunch of reasons. I am fairly confident no FEs that early had plastic sprockets.
The thing that really got me was a friend from work had a 63-1/2 Factory 427 dual quad FE Galaxie which at the time he got it was a low milage street/strip car and ad never been apart. We found a nylon cam gear in it from the factory! That was a 425 hp solid lifter engine.
I know for sure no Super Duty Pontiac's came that way. Even my 69 LeMans with a 354 H-O engine had a steel gear.
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41 minutes ago, Str8-8-Dave said:
Ford FE engines use steel gears and pretty decent chains. Most GM engines from the early 60's into the 80s or maybe even 90s used aluminum cam gears with nylon teeth thought to reduce noise, and they really reduce noise when they fail, the engine goes quiet. The local Pontiac dealer replaced the oil pan on my 1969 GTO equipped with high performance Ram Air IV engine at about 8,000 miles under warranty, it developed a stress crack in the stamped oil pan. They also wound up replacing the factory timing chain and gears because half the nylon teeth had already failed and were laying in the bottom of the original pan. The dealer put a Cloyes heavy duty chain and good steel gears in that engine to preclude a catastrophic engine failure.
One easy check on timing chains is to rotate the engine slightly forward and reverse, can be done by using the fan on the old FE's that have solid non-viscous fans. On engines with viscous drive fans you have to put a breaker bar and socket on the damper wheel bolt. The crankshaft should only rotate a degree or 2 back and forth before you feel the effort go way up indicating you have taken the slack out of the timing chain in each direction to the point it starts to rotate the camshaft gear. If it rotates quite a bit, tear it apart and service the chain and gears. If it only rotates a couple degrees the gears and chain are likely healthy.
OE Ford FE engines used plastic fiber gear on camshaft.
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I can't help but thinking "promising" and then the other side of me says "last gasp".
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1 hour ago, Jack Bennett said:
My 1947 Chevy Fleetline used a small drive gear on the crankshaft, and a huge driven gear on the camshaft. Both were made of fiber, and the teeth would shear off without warning. But, during that era the owner/driver had a pretty good idea of the problem, and how to repair it along side Highway 66.
Just a side note on more modern, timing belt equipped engines. The primary job of the timing belt, which relies totally on rubber cleats, meshing for a fraction of a second with a wildly spinning gear, is to rotate the camshaft, possibly the water pump…although usually not….and ensure that the valves are opened and closed in synchronized harmony with the stroke of a piston. In the days where the distributor was also driven by the camshaft, and timed accordingly, when the belt broke, the camshaft stopped and ignition timing ceased when the belt broke. That resulted in the engine losing power, and fuel was no longer being fed to, or exploded in the combustion chamber. Also, cylinder heads were designed to leave some clearance between an open valve and a cylinder top when it rotated past TDC. That is not the case now. Ignition and fuel management is managed by a little device called a Electronic Programmable Read-Only Memory (EPROM) and most engines now also have camshaft positioning sensors which allow a variable to valve timing as engine speeds and power needs demand. Without lengthy, and perhaps boring details, I will add that a broken timing belt may result in a cylinder, still under power, being repeatedly slammed into the valves left open when the belt broke. Needless to say this can cause the total, and irreparable destruction of a very expensive, and under different circumstances, otherwise perfectly good engine.
Thus the mandate to change engine timing belts within prescribed time periods.
Jack
This scenario (of wiping out an engine) you described for more modern engines has been going on now for more than 56 years in some engines. 1966 OHC Pontiac six will do that. I witnessed a 1978 D15A3 Honda explode in a Prelude, wasn't pretty.
On some of my traditional Pontiac V-8 cars I have learned to pick a nice day when the vehicle goes over 35K to do the water pump and the timing gear. Pontiac's just like to jump and destroy from 35-75K and then where are you???? Now you've got to drop the pan and get the mess out and hope none of that crud made it past the oil pump to the oil galleries I've been in a car when the chain slipped over the gear for the first time. I would rather do it when I have the time because if left to an engines own nuance it will happen when I've got something better to do-OR I'm in the middle of NOWHERE. After it's done and with the proper double roller chain and gears and new water pump that's just one engine I don't have to worry about.
One thing to note is stick shift cars tend to not only wear down or break off (due to heat) the plastic/fiber coated teeth much faster than automatic cars because of the on again/off again of going up through the gears and downshifting having a push-pull effect on the gears/chain.
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I should mention this. To those who have raced or built race cars or engines should know the name Ryan Falconer. Please read his history and fortunately for people in the greater Prescott AZ area Ryan moved his business here (Chino AZ.) from Ca. about the same time I moved from Ca. approx. ten years ago. So, the V-12 topic is something Ryan is good at among other engines that are built by his design.
Welcome to Ryan Falconer Racing Engines! - Home
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On 8/3/2023 at 1:42 PM, rocketraider said:
Like this Merlin?!😃 Good Lawd... Notice there's a young buck at the controls, much like in the 1940s.
Not enough horsepower there Glenn. I prefer something else.
Curtiss Wright R3350 Turbo Compound Radial Engine Propeller CSU Testing
A few years on these in this application,
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4 hours ago, Paul Dobbin said:
There was a body shop in St. Petersburg, Fl that built a "Transmino", which was more streamlined than this one. The shop
was D & G Collision.
Pontiac's first one,
The first two black and white pictures was 40+ years ago. Originally standard interior Catalina with a 280hp 2bbl 389, 4 speed Hydra-Matic. A parts chaser in the Pontiac Engineering garage after marketing/product planning got through with it. Something happened during the restoration as it turned into a 300hp 4bbl, 389 with a Bonneville interior.
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Anyone have 50s and 60s cars with either factory or aftermarket air-conditioning?
Yes! I have a factory air 1963 Pontiac Catalina. When I bought the car, it had an attempted R134 conversion. Basically, charging ports added to the compressor, no high-pressure, low-pressure switches etc. I re-converted to R-12. No problems and nice and cold.
I also have a 1969 Pontiac H-O LeMans with factory air conditioning. I ordered the car in Nov 68 and took delivery just before Christmas 1969. The unit is also a R12 as intended by Pontiac. The only service work done has been an evaporator replacement due to a leak in an oil return line where it's soldered into the bottom of the evaporator. I replaced this evaporator in 1992. Telltale sign was small amount of refrigerant oil in the evaporator water drain that goes to the ground.
FYI, G.M. Frigidaire compressors according to the service manual are supposed to slightly weep. Buick division put an oil shield on the compressor to direct any oil to the ground. I copied a shield from a friends Buick and made exact replicas for my Pontiacs. Took about 40 minutes to make two and they are effective and look just like factory Buick.
Here is one installed on a friends 1966 GTO,
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Rule # 1. It's not what you drive, it's what you drive home to.
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16 hours ago, Avanti Bill said:
You can not judge market by the car prices of the early cars at any auction and unless you are present to put the mark 1 eyeball on it you just don't what the condition is, they all look good under the lights. Having said that really nice cars always bring the money.
I'll add to that. People with limited disposable income, the bread-and-butter cars, the entry level cars are the first indicators of a downward trend. They are the Weathervane.
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What was the first year for Mustang?
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Pfeil (see edit history)
And Holiday Coupe and Coupe deVille also 1949