Brooklyn Beer
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Posts posted by Brooklyn Beer
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Busy couple of days. Will get under tomorrow and double check
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What I would give for some of that cool weather !
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2 hours ago, thehandleman said:
100 bucks probably not worthy of the post lol, now a 750 or better thats worth noting cheers
Good Luck on the Sale could be a nice deal for someone
well it was originally listed for 8600 and I received a notice from ebay (watch list) of the big drop. I very SINCERELY apologize for not going back to the very first post and see that it had already been updated before I made my post. Can you ever forgive me for wasting your time ?
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They just dropped the price to 6800
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I tip my hat to all of you. Here I worry about driving my 49 Buick 50 miles and wondering what i will do if a break down. The confidence you have in your 100 year old cars is inspiring ! In two weeks I take possession of my 1931 Franklin that I bought with the goal in mind to tour with when life slows down. Seeing your stories gives me a goal to strive for !
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Thank you ! I will double check my measurements when I get home today. Mine is a rear drain like this.
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10 minutes ago, keiser31 said:
Can you post a photo of the one you have? I have a 383 or 361 pan in my shop.
The position of the sump back from the front lip of the oil pan looks to be the critical measurement. It is no less then 7 1/4 inches from the lip to the front of the sump. Sump itself is 7 and 1/4 inches long with a rear drain. Looks much like the one Turbine posted just the sump has to be farther back to clear the cross member yet not to long for drag link clearance.. Mine is still in the car and will see if I can crawl under tomorrow and get a couple pics. Can't get up on ramps right now as I have the belts off doing a power steering pump swap. Plan on swapping the pan when I put in the new drag link (it is literally dragging on the pan), idler arm bushings and tie rod ends. I have a want listed on the dodge 880 facebook page and every parts yard from french lake to Joes crap yard doesn't have one. Nothing comes up I will just pound the crap out of it and braze it at work. I know it's going to split all to hell and back
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I will crawl under and get a picture. Never seen an oil pan pushed in like this, in a perfect square all the way around the entire sump from corner to corner to corner to the outside edges of the sump.
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Nope. Won't fit. I am about 7" from front of pan lip to front of sump. Sump is about 7 1/4 long. There is no room really between front of sump and the cross member.
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I will get underneath tonight and measure. Mine has a rear drain plug. This looks about right though. The rear of the pan depth is most important me thinks to clear the drag link.
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Well I can tell you that most likely isn't happening. The castle nut was ready to fall off when I found it. I used a small C clamp to pull everything back together and then ran up the castle nut to "tight", installing a cotter pin. But I still see a gap of about 3/16 between the two when tight. Can you remove and replace the pitman bearing ?
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16 minutes ago, Larry Schramm said:
We had both the '13 car and '15 truck out for the weekend. We took the '13 on the Lansing/Dearborn HCCA tour and both vehicles to the Old Car Festival at Greenfield Village. Here is a video on the OCF with at picture of our truck at the village at about 3:15.
What a special event. No hot rod infestation to be found.
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Mine looks like it went 15 rounds with a floor jack and a couple boulders. It is cracked on the corners from the abuse as well. Anyone have a stock spare 361 oil pan sitting on a shelf they would care to part with? This stupid grocery getter 4 door sedan is growing on me. I swore this would not happen. Since I am dropping and replacing all the steering linkage I would like to swap the pan out during that time.
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Thanks you ! What I think I am going to do to start on this problem is replace both tie rod ends (I had to scrape 55 years of grime off just to find the grease fitting) and the drag link, and idler arm bushing then look into adjusting the steering box. They were pretty dry and not every grease fitting would accept grease. No doubt they are wallowed out. I can hand turn these back and forth real easy and they just feel worn out by what I am reading about them. Something scary I saw on this car right off the bat was the castle nut on the pitman arm to center link was about 3 turns from falling off. No cotter pin. I also noticed no bushing in there or much of anything else. Just the castle nut. Is there a bushing where the pitman mounts to the center link? All I see left on mine is the threaded post. This will give me more time to look into understanding how to do the control arms and ball joints. Dropping the center link will also allow me to address the crushed oil pan it looks like someone attempted to jack from in the past !
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Is this the one your talking about? This car is very straight. Never hit. So guessing I would install both normally? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=203227&cc=1330175&jsn=504
I have finger tip power steering in my 65 Fury and have no issues with it. What is going on with this 63 Dodge is slop in the wheel. Like 2 inches free play side to side before the wheels begin to turn which I need to really address if I want to drive this above 45 mph. It can be an experience on a road with quite a bit of camber. Looking in the manual I see an adjustment to tighten it up. Or is this free play an age issue and worn out gears? Never been into a steering box before. Never been into a steering box before.
I will have to find myself a tutorial on doing the control arms. Last torsion bars I screwed with were on M1 A1 Tanks.
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How hard can it be to change out a head gasket on a flat six?
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So everything about this 1963 is new to me and I am going through the loose steering problems. Have the car up and yep, lots of play (twist by hand) in the ball joints. From what I can find it seems this model has screw in ball joints. Tough job? Do they go in just like it sounds? And where would be a good place to get these? And the sockets?
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Should be there as "Happy Mopar Power Steering Pump Day" ! Thanks again !
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will send you a PM
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Yep that would be it. How would you like to get paid? Thanks !
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1 minute ago, Elpad said:
Consider posting on Girls on Buicks!
I was scared for her. It was 96 degree's, intense sun and no clouds. Thought she would catch fire! She almost translucent white. So of course I had to ask her to join me in the shade.
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They did "judging" in an odd way. Every registered car got a ballot. The organizers choose for you 3 classes you had to judge. I was 1980's pick up trk, post 1980 corvette, and post 1980 mopar. WHAT. So hot rodders had to judge pre 1950 originals? There was 12 pre 1960 original cars and 4 pre 50 original (I.E. not rodded) cars. Not a single original car received top anything. 135 cars registered. When a nearly stock 2018 challenger with neon lights under the hood takes top mopar there is a problem. Never called top Buick because there was 2 of us. Oddly corvette had tops for each decade. Top chevy was broken up for tri five and others excluding corvette. Think they felt sorry for the guy with the bone stock perfect 60 olds convertible and gave him number 2 convertible, a 68 camaro (rodded) got number 3 and of course some rodded 30's ford won top convertible.( It didn't have any convertible mechanism just no top) There really wasn't any criteria at the end.
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Small local show infested with 80% hot rods. Three original pre 50 cars is all. No chance at winning anything when the judging is that lopsided. BUT when she came over and asked to have her picture taken I thought I had won something better then first in show !
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Thank you buddy ! as far as I can tell all Chrysler used the same from 62-67. Only the bracket changed. These 880's are really just a Newport from the firewall back.
I need me a power steering pump! 63 Dodge
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Everything got here safe and sound. Thank you !