john hess
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Posts posted by john hess
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thinking about this, look for this symptom on your fuel pump glass sight glass..
if you can see air bubbles moving rapidly in the top of the glass, at idle, it may be a sign of a failing pump....
I mention this because now, after installing the 'new' pump, I no longer have the swirling bubbles in the glass....
this apparently was happening over a period of time and I just didn't notice it was getting worse.... just like my hard starts.....
maybe this will help someone from getting stranded if you haven't already installed an electric pusher pump.....
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I'd for sure put on an electric pump. best thing for piece of mind when traveling, even short distance.... I'll get you a picture of where I mounted mine later this week... leaving for Ohio tomorrow...
l mounted the pump by the fuel sender in tank. l did this without cutting any lines.. just moved them slightly so I can reattach them in the unlikely event the electric pump goes out...
even used the existing hole in tank strap to mount pump.. no drilling..
I'll post pictures later... be patient everyone......
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3 hours ago, Rusty Heaps said:
I forgot to pull the paper towels out of the intake and exhaust ports on the 216 in my ‘50 Fleetline when I pulled the manifolds. They were sucked through and blown out as sooty confetti! 🤣 No harm done.
you are not the only one who has ever done that.!!!. guilty myself..
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I think we all have been here at some point... glad you got it...
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eric... used my local napa store. they have a full machine shop....
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but, I'd do it all again... that's who/what we are. !!! car nuts.....
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one more thing... when re installing the flywheel with no dowel pin hole to align with crankshaft dowel pin location (remember no pin in crank) I experienced this little snafu..!!...
lift flywheel to crankshaft while under car on a roller. (I have no lift, just floor ramps). Install top bolt to keep it from falling on my face...!!
Install rest of bolts only to find 2 will not start..😔 ... Remove all bolts, rotate one hole clockwise, repeat...!
You guessed it... still not matching..😏....
On the 6th attempt, success..🤗... this is my life... (also why I don't play the lottery!).... ha..
soooo.. if you're ever removing a flywheel... be sure to mark it first !!! I'm old, bad shoulders, bad back, bad knees.... hate doing things twice, or six times.....😆🤫😁
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bloo, no visible timing marks on flywheel so I assume they discontinued this prior to 53-54.
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clutch and flywheel back and installed... all vibration gone.
happy dance inserted here.!!
flywheel had some weight reduction..
clutch had some previous weight reduction holes weld filled and light grinding where needed for weight reduction. no pictures, just wanted to get it in and running...
the transmission..
partial dismantling to replace 2 seals and 3 gaskets.. Found rear welsh plug not fully seated. Hammer set to bottom with proper size socket. This minor overlook on someones part kept tailcone casting from sitting flush to transmission case, causing a leak.
All good so far... 70 miles no leaks as of Sunday night...
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this was a so called ethanol compatible rebuild... from who knows where with parts from who knows where... just sayin...!!
Nothing lasts forever..... the 6v electric was my best insurance against hot starts.... only use it for starting..... mechanical pump works just fine......
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I'm with Phil on this... just replaced fuel pump (ac9640) on my 53... mine would shut down if idled too long at low rpm (300). then would go into vapor lock. added a 6v electric pump at fuel tank.. problem solved....
My original rebuilt pump was dismantled. what I found was the one diaphragm had partially disintegrated and was not sealing at low rpm induced volume..
I suppose this could happen on the output side also, giving fuel starvation at high rpm....
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CPR will have the bakelite cover.... no stencil letters if that's important to you.... looks like you need the spring inside also.... nor really needed if you are in warm climate and don't use the car in cold weather....
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absolutely amazing the speed of response and the collective knowledge available here on the forums.....
my hat's off to all who contribute...
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hi john... yes flywheel will be d!one separately and then with pressure plate attached.... and marked for reassembly..... I'm not sure if this flywheel has timing marks on it as I have always used balancer marks for tune up... but I will check when it comes back... if it does I will be sure to mount with both aligned !
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thanks Ben.. yes, I have researched and found jeep clutch disc c2ydompatible also... 10 inch 10 spline 1 1/8 shaft.
this particular year car, 53, timing marks are on front balancer..
so.. I'm taking this as no worries as far as balance to crankshaft... dowel pins were for aligning timing marks on flywheel to crankshaft only ?. this makes sense.... thank you...
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starter gear teeth are being touched up... some funky wear on a few causing starter to hang up sometimes.... shop will balance as a set and mark them.....
as I said, my rookie mistake....
'new' clutch was a reman from some tropical port... even clutch plate was off metrically.... 1 1/8 inch must be different over there... had to source a 10 in plate at Carlisle 2 years ago... hence the mismatched setup.... also,since I had both clutches side by side, I could see there was no evidence of balancing on the new one..... old clutch had a few lightening holes drilled for balance.
I did not think to take pictures or I would post.
now, to reseal that transmission leak while waiting for shop work to be done !! 😁
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I have been chasing a vibration on this car for sometime. I've narrowed it down to the new clutch not balanced to the flywheel.... they are both at a local shop as I write....
my question is this.... the flywheel, not certain if original to engine, is not drilled for a dowel pin.. the crankshaft is drilled for dowel pin, but is missing or was removed...
should I be concerned after having both rebalanced as a set ? .....
I am certain this vibration is a result of the new pressure plate not being balanced before installing... my bad, rookie mistake..... car would vibrate with clutch pushed in and revving engine....
I say 'certain ' because I removed this clutch and started the car.... instant change in vibration. virtually all vibration is gone and I can idle the engine down to approximately 150 rpm.... not possible before. always started surging as idle was lowered and would stall itself out at a slightly higher rpm.....
John 🤔
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1 hour ago, 31nash880 said:
John Hess,
As anything in this hobby it's just time and money.
yes.. I agree. spent some quality time and small amount of money... it's all good..... enjoyed every minute of it.....
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Success.. 6 volt pusher/primer pump installed.... on/off switch on dash..
Mechanical pump needs worked on. Here's what I saw originally. Glass bowl gets air in it.. not much, just enough that you can see it pulsating with mechanical pump... at idle car will eventually stall out... so carb is going dry... Also some oil seeping on pump.. not sure where that's coming from...
Car will stay running on highway without pump on, but upon stopping for extended period at idle, car stalls.. air seen in glass bowl.... turn on pump, air dissapeared....so if you see this.. be warned!!!.. you are on borrowed time.....
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Vapor locked..... procrastinating adding a pusher pump since we got the 53 pontiac back on the road 3 years ago.... Well, it happened... had to let car sit locally till after work... Cold engine, fired right up... drove directly home.... pump ordered and recieved..... today's project.....
Looking back, car was indicating delayed starts after hot..... probably fuel pump/vacuum pump rebuild also....
Listen to you cars.. they will warn you of potential problems before they let you stranded.... !!!
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Steve, nice first show last year..... thanks to the sponsor who made it possible.... I'm with TAKerry... a small donation would not be a deterrent for most of us.... we all know costs have skyrocketed recently of everything.... hopefully that would not keep a true car enthusiast from the 'community get together'....
I liked the format.. Any car, any year.. just a bunch of us proud of what we have...
Count me in.!!!
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4 hours ago, carbking said:
One of these days, in addition to "spell checker", Microsoft will institute "thought checker" where the software will read our mind and make sure we post what we are thinking!
Well, maybe not such a good idea
Late night posts are the "Monday mornings" of the internet!
Jon
my wife already has that feature.!
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On 3/23/2023 at 10:03 AM, carbking said:
You don't oil the valves!
The oil is to be applied to the "bearing surfaces" in the casting holding the intermediate shaft. The screw holes are open to the shaft. Simply removing the screws and dropping a few drops of oil once a month or so is sufficient. The casting cover itself does not need to be removed.
Jon
that what I meant.... late night replies sometimes get misinterpreted...
Well, maybe not such a good idea 
1940 Transmission Shift Shaft Lock Screws
in Pontiac Flathead Owners
Posted
I just made a tool for this myself. I used a 1/4 inch old craftsman chisel and ground to fit the slot in the set screw.. slow, and dipped in water often to keep it cool.... works great.... no locktight on mine either.