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Cabnut

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Posts posted by Cabnut

    1929-1930 Chevy hot air heater

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted

    Not to put a damper on your quest but if you poll the Vintage Chev Club most all will advise you won't find one and if you did it would probably cost more then you spent on your car. I have only heard of one or two people who have them on cars during the last 30 years or so. Best of luck.

    1929 1930 Pontiac Buick Oldsmobile Others Rear Fender

    in Parts For Sale

    Posted

    I have this super solid almost straight fender but I do not know what it is for. Bought it to use to repair mine but it is just too nice to hack up so offering it for sale until I really need to cut it up. $150.00 US plus shipping. There is little rust on this and only a couple of low dents from years of storage. If it fits your restoration it would be a steal at this price.

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    1929 Whippet 96A Hood

    in Parts For Sale

    Posted

    I have what I believe to be a good solid hood for a 96A Willys Whippet. Thinking 1929. Surface rust and needs some straightening. Not really dented but twisted a little. Surface rust not no rust through. $250.00 US plus shipping.

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    1927 Caddy Victoria??

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Body first as it will be the hardest. Most can do mechanical and many tin guys available for the fenders and such but the wood framing in the body.... Looking at the picture only and seeing only some of the metal damage I would quote between $30000 to $40000 to get the body together in prime ready for paint. To do that I would need every piece of the body and the chassis or a detailed drawing of the chassis and mounting locations.

    1929 Chevrloet 194 question

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Well looks like more was read into my post. Bottom line someone stated 0.006" for piston clearance which I believe is wrong. And for cam ground Pistons I am sure they would be fit tighter. I am well aware technology has advanced and had pretty much stated that. These engines don't run at temps and RPMs like modern engines. I am aware the rod alignment needs to be checked by the way. That's all I have to say. Bye.

    1929 Chevrloet 194 question

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    6 hours ago, herm111 said:

    Piston slap is ONLY caused by Rods being out of Alignment! Clearance should be a .001-00 per inch of bore. If the engine was to be used in a heavy pulling truck, a  4" bore would not be uncommon to have .010-00 clearance.

    Piston Rattle is noticed with pistons that are solid skirted, rather then split skirt, with the proper clearance.

     

    Herm.

    So reading my original Chevrolet repair manuals 1919 FA and FB engines with Lynite (aluminum) Pistons the spec for piston clearance is quoted at 0.003". By 1926-28 spec for aluminum piston Chev engines was 0.0025 to 0.003" ( I would suspect this is from improved piston design). Also both manuals state piston slap as caused by excessive wear to cylinder bore resulting in extra clearance. I tend to go with manufacturer information as being correct which is why I try to get the manuals for the cars I work on.

    Wanted to buy Wood Wheel Hub

    in Parts For Sale

    Posted

    Attached is a dimensioned drawing of a wood wheel hub I am looking for. Thi is specific to 1929 Chevrolets and fits the rear wheel. Overall dimensions are the same as 1928 and 1929 Chevrolet front hubs but are machined to fit the tapered axle on the rear axle. I have one and am looking for another to complete a set of wood wheels.

    Thank you for any leads.

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    1929 Chevrloet 194 question

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    On ‎9‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 3:13 AM, wayne sheldon said:

    A quick warning about piston fit. These engines are known as the "cast iron wonder" and with upgrades were used by Chevrolet from 1929 into 1953 (and a few beyond). One of the reasons for the nickname, is that they used cast iron pistons originally. Original type cast iron pistons in these are usually fine, because they are a lightweight design (yes, that is possible).

    The problem comes about because many replacement pistons for these engines for going on eighty years now, are aluminum pistons. Aluminum expands more than cast iron does due to higher temperatures. This is called the coefficient of expansion. Many specifications you will see for these engines are the original specifications for the cast iron pistons (which expand with running temperatures about the same amount as the cylinder itself does). Cast iron pistons for a proper fit, should be at about .002 to .003 (inch) total clearance from the cylinder walls. Aluminum pistons get a bit more complicated. Modern engines, with full water jackets, and high pressure oiling, can run as close as '004 inch. Your Chevrolet should ideally be set at about .006 inch (largely due to the half water jackets) if it has aluminum pistons.

    Those Chevrolet engines are amazing. I had a worn out '52 many years ago. A quick and dirty overhaul with too much wear in the cylinders (you likely wouldn't believe me if I told you how bad it was), only burned oil at somewhat over 60 mph,  and was driven daily for more than 60,000 miles before the transmission gave out.

    Okay so if you look at the aluminum pistons supplied these days you will notice that the lands for the rings are progressively smaller in diameter with the smallest at the top where the most expansion will be. These newer pistons are designed to allow for the extra expansion of the aluminum nearest the combustion and the tolerance at the skirt should be as stated by the piston supplier which was 2 to 3 thousands from the supplier I bought from. Also, yes aluminum pistons expand more but they also conduct and release heat more efficiently then cast iron so extra clearance at the skirt is not necessary. If the suggestion to allow 0.006" at the skirt is followed then very quickly piston slap may occur as the cylinder walls wear in.

    What carb is this? (29chev?)

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    This is a Tillotson model JR-5 and is an aftermarket replacement for Chevrolet. Two models of Carter brass bowl carbs were used in 1929. The early cars had a Carter 125S and can be recognized by a short fat accelerator pump and the later 1929s used a Carter 136S that had a long skinny pump. There are kits available for the Tillotson and if you look you can find the Carters. Be careful if you buy rebuilt Carters and I recommend you ask around the VCCA Chev Club for reputable rebuilders. Also the Carter 150S carb from 1930/31 can be used on the 1929. These may need re-jetting. 

    The Guild..a TV show most of you will like.

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    I have seen this show and visited their shop. Very hype and they are expensive. The unfortunate thing is I have heard from many that they are hacks. The scoop I hear is that they make it look great but the mechanical works is substandard. I didn't believe such would be the case until I saw one of their shows where the mechanic "fixed" a Caddy transmission by taking it out on the road and running through gears ( including reverse) while under power. I always wondered how far that client got after picking up that car. After seeing that I stopped watching.

    Wood Kits and Pieces for Early Chevy Cars, Other GM's

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Cabnut (see edit history)

    To weigh in on the actual topic, I will give an example of pricing for the Durant model M-4 Sedan I am presently doing. To start with I checked the current pricing of a comparable Model A which was a 29 Briggs Fordor. I took that price (given blueprints exist and these kits are quantity manufactured) and added some premium for one off work, back engineering, and jig construction and priced the complete wood structure ( including door wood and new seat wood) assembled ready for tin installation in the neighborhood of $12000,00. The M-4 Durant body is not terribly complex and The 1929 Chevrolet sedan I am doing would probably fall closer to $16-17K. Pricing depends on body complexity (lots of angles and complex curves means more jig work) and how much back engineering is required to ensure the body is returned as close to original dimensions as can be determined.

    Now given that other makes then Ford will not have the volume, I wouldn't expect wood could be produced at lesser cost. If people are not willing to pay the cost for readily available Ford kits I don't expect them to be willing to pay premiums for other makes either. That leaves those people who really want the car and not too concerned with cost or return on investment. I expect that wood could not be produced cheaper then I can do, as presently I have zero overhead. Soon I will be expanding to a larger space and costs will increase for me but I am planning on absorbing most of that cost as this is mostly fun for me.

    All the best,

    Wood Kits and Pieces for Early Chevy Cars, Other GM's

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Restorer32 that's not my door. It is my comment and it seems you didn't read everything I said. The doors can be done but I did say that if they didn't fit the body may need work too. On all the doors I have seen, most have tin on the inside faces that the outer skin crimps too. Aside from some minor adjustment the skin position will be governed by these inside pieces. Sculpture is not what was done to create these bodies, they were designed and engineered. As such they all follow truisms of carriage work design and engineering principals.

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