Gary W
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Posts posted by Gary W
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Sorry for any confusion... I edited my original post so the proper downshift technique is up top.
But the "goose" between gears makes the downshift effortless.
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Here's my '37. if you need more, just ask. I have a tons
Gary
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Whenever I downshift from 3rd to 2nd (whether a non-synchro Model "A" or my Buick), I've found that slightly "goosing" the accelerator between gears really helps the downshift slide easier.
The quick increase in engine RPM's seems to help the gears mesh much easier.
Clutch in, slide gearshift out of third, release clutch, quick "goose" the accelerator, clutch in, slide up into second, on your way
I have a hill by my house and this is a daily event so I have mastered this maneuver.
Maybe it'll help to try it.
Gary
*** Edited the technique. Yes, "goose" it with the clutch released to match the gear RPM's, then depress the clutch and downshift into second. ***
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When I removed the freeze plugs, I found a lot of rust buildup in the block. I wheeled the block out onto the driveway and hit it with my power washer from every angle... reverse, into every freeze plug, into the outlets, out of the inlets.... until she ran clean.
* I had my radiator professionally re-cored
* I run 50/50 Prestone with one bottle of NO-ROSION
* I run with a 180 thermostat.
To date, have put 2000 miles on her, and she has never gone even a whisper over the 180 mark, and plenty of heat for those cold January mornings.
I am very happy that I took the time to blast it all clean. I did not know of the thermal process, or I would have sent the block for that treatment.
Plugs out. No explanation needed
You can see the river of rust pouring out the from the interior.
Blast away until she ran clean!
After power washing and blowing compressed air, the results speak for themselves.
Gary
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On my '37 Special, I swapped the original Marvel for an NOS Carter 608S. It involved making all new connections for fuel lines, throttle linkages, heat source for the automatic choke...
Here is the whole write up from the beginning of the swap. Maybe something in my description will help you.
(** I have recently come across the original firewall to carburetor linkage so I will be removing the "Z" shaped linkage I made and fitting the correct, original part soon.)
Heres the sequence:
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Good morning and good luck with your Buick!
I'm sure Sean will chime in here with all the specs of you data tag, but for starters:
1937 Model 41: Buick Special 4-door Trunkback Sedan (Usually there would be a "41" stamped on the plate after "1937 MOD"__________
Style No: (Fisher Body Style #): 37-4419:
37: 1937 Model Year
4: Buick
4: Series 40 "Special"
19: 4-door Trunkback Sedan
Trim: 301: Taupe Mohair Fabric. (Available on models 41, 44, 46, 46S, 47 & 48)
Paint 500: Imperial Black (solid... not metallic)
According to my records, the Model 37-41 represented 40% of Buick production that year, with 85,195 produced. It was by far the most popular model sold.
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8 hours ago, Bloo said:
Maybe Gary will show up in this thread and clarify, but I believe his unit had been professionally rebuilt beforehand.
That is correct.
I sent my unit out to be professionally rebuilt, and simply installed it when it came back from the shop "as is".
I assumed the unit was checked for proper OHMS range, and I also figured there must be a float arm configuration so the float didn't bottom out.
I ran out of gas at just under 1/4 tank showing on the dash.
My float was hitting the bottom of the tank , preventing the arm from dropping fully, BUT even on the bench when the arm was allowed to fully drop it never came near 0 OHMS.
Luckily, I was able to remove some of the material on the "stop", which allowed the arm to drop a little more, and gave me a reading of .6 OHMS.
BUT... The float was still bottoming out in the tank, so I had to bend the float arm, and by trial and error, achieve the tank bottom clearance.
I guess my "fix" was unconventional, but it works as it should.
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You've come to the right place! Bunch of smart guys here who are more than helpful and are willing to share. I restored a 1937 Model 48 four years ago, and this site was my saving grace.
Throw a question out there, attach a photo or two (or a lot..... we like photos!), and the replies will start coming in. Good Luck with your Buick! Beautiful, roadworthy automobiles!
Gary Wheeler
NJ
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I'm a firm believer in good grounds and I ran several dedicated ground wires to lights, to the accessory electric priming fuel pump, and the fuel sending unit.
From my battery, I ran two ground cables: one to the frame to create a "ground hub", and the second ground cable up to the engine.
This is my schematic tracing my battery cables, the master "kill switch" and the frame "ground hub".
In the car, this is what it looks like. I have two ground cables (2/0) running off the negative pole.
The one goes up front to the engine, the second grounds to the frame and this is where I attach my dedicated grounds if needed.
This picture shows the "hub" with my electric fuel pump and my fuel sender wire attached.
The fuel sender ground wire attaches directly to the flange mounting screw.
I routed it down the frame rail and I left plenty of slack so I can drop the tank without any problems.
Gary
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I don't know if you saw my post a couple posts up the chain here, but I just went through this with my 37 Buick. Try to read through the posts starting with "running out of gas". Bloo basically walked me through the entire diagnostic procedure and then I detailed how I dropped the tank and removed the sender. By grinding a little off my sender AND bending the arm a bit, it now reads accurately and doesn't bottom out inside the tank. Maybe you'll pick up a hint here or there to make the job a little easier.
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I just went through this very same thing on my '37. If you follow along from "I ran out of gas" to the next few posts detailing how the problem was diagnosed and fixed I think it'll help you out. I received great advice from many of the same people (Bloo) giving you input. They know their stuff.
Here's the link starting when I ran out of gas and it continues on from there:
Here's the posts detailing tank removal and diagnosis and repair of the sender in the tank:
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The steering wheel restoration was done by J.B. Donaldson out in Phoenix, AZ. I worked with a gentleman named Jim. They're "car people" and they know their craft.
I was very pleased with the result.
For reference, it's on page 7 of my blog:
As always, thanks for following and all the continued support. Love this place!
Gary
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Sunday, May 2, 2021: "With This Ring........"
A Wedding Story
Today I had the honor of participating in a beautiful wedding ceremony with my Buick. It turned out to be a beautiful day, and the Buick performed flawlessly. Oh, the newlyweds looked really nice too!
I won't take a lot of time, but I do want to share a few photos. It was so nice to get back into a public space, with people, laughing, dancing..... starting to regain a little normalcy to our lives.
Here's the backstory:
I purchased the Buick from the estate of Mr. Harry Yeager. Harry and I were friends through our local Vintage Automobile Club of Ocean County. Harry's daughter, Jen, is a hygienist in my office and has been working with me for 24 years.
30 years ago, Jen was married in the Buick. Her dad, Harry, drove her to the venue.
TODAY, Jen's daughter was married in the Buick. She was so looking forward to being driven in her grandfather's car, and so I was honored to make that happen! Here are a few photos:
The Buick just turned 2000 miles on Sunday, April 25, 2021.
I followed the "2,000 mile maintenance" schedule and topped off the master cylinder, changed the oil, changed the transmission oil, drained and filled the radiator, filled the tank and generally went through the chassis and gave the bolts little "snug".
Here I am on Wednesday, April 28, 2021 beginning what would turn out to be about 30 hours detailing the car to get it all shined up! I cleaned everything out from under the fenders, under the running boards, the engine and flywheel pans. Then started on the white walls, the chrome, ....
The windows, all the grille bars, and then that black paint, starting from the roof and working down.
When all the detailing was done inside and out, I applied this sticker-decal to the glass.
Sunday, May 2, 2021: Wedding Day!
The day started with a downpour! By 10:00 it stopped raining and the streets began to dry. I was dreading getting caught in a storm, but the weather angels smiled, and it was good the rest of the day!
Here I am at noon, ready to play my role as the chauffeur.
I live in Wall Township, NJ. The wedding was held in Hamilton, NJ. I basically mapped out a route using all back roads and county roads that paralleled 195.
So, for those of you not from Jersey, I had to traverse the entire state from east to west. Hamilton is about 4 miles from Pennsylvania. It was just about 42 miles each way.
This photo is one of the many back roads I travelled. Most of the trip looked like this. Not what you think of when you think of Jersey, but we really do have some beautiful areas.
Honestly, I was stressed on the way out. It was so important to the bride to be there, and I was just praying for a safe, trouble free trip. The Buick delivered.
Arrived at the Hamilton Manor right on time, and they took hundreds of photos with the car.
Here, the Bride is in the front seat, getting ready for the "first look"..... the first time the groom sees her all dolled up.
I think that is something kinda new at these weddings now. When I got married, my "first look" was when she was walking up the aisle.
She was a stunning bride, and they've dated since High School.
All in all, a very fun and exciting day!
I was so happy to be able to come through for her.
Last one!
They finished all their photos and I was back on the road, crossing the state, with a lot less anxiety.
I actually enjoyed the ride very much! Then, back to the wedding to attend as a guest!
Very busy day, but all-in-all, very satisfying.
I hope you all are staying safe and healthy out there!
Have a great night.
Gary
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Here's the link to my '37 master cylinder rebuild: (Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner)
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Here are the links to the pages that deal with the springs:
REMOVAL: (JUST TOUCH THE ARROW IN THE UPPER RIGHT CORNER)
INSTALLATION:
And this final one was just dealing with the right rear shackle bolt that sheared off upon removal, but sometime you'll see a photo that will help you:
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When I did my '37, I had the same problem with petrified grease in the shackle bolt preventing any new grease from entering.
I replaced my rear leaf springs with new ones from Eaton so they were off the car, but
I drilled out the petrified grease from the bolt
Installed a grease fitting
Pumped and pumped until all the old grease ran out and the new red grease came through.
I'll link to the spring section of my restoration.. maybe it'll help if you decide to remove the springs.
Gary
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Here are a few photos of my '37 pedals and the springs:
Gary
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When I removed the listing wires from the original headliner, I used a Dremel and made small hash marks at the end of each wire to be sure they went back in the same position.
The 1937 Fisher Body Service Manual states " The paper wrapped piano wires running through the headlining listings are of different lengths. If removed for any reason see that each one is replaced in its proper position."
If you have all seven just loose, you may have to fit each one at a time by trial and error to get the best fit in each position. Then label them.
As far as attachment to the car:
Listing wires Nos. 1, 2 and 3 (from the front) are clinched to the roof bows
Listing wires Nos. 4, 5, 6, & 7 are clinched to the rear headlining supports and the ends of each wire are inserted in holes in the top of the rear quarter trim stick support.
Here is page 59 from the Fisher Body Service Manual. The lower left column is all the information I could find regarding the headliner and the listing wires, but it does make sense once you get in the car and start the installation.
Here is the link to my headliner installation: (Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner)
I hope it helps. I have tons of photos, please let me know if you need more.
Gary
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In this post I was getting the door goodies ready for installation and the handle was part of the discussion. I don't know if it will offer any new ideas for you.
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Beautiful... Well deserved!! Congrats!
Gary
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Good morning Bill!
I have experienced this "hot soak" with my '37 Special as well. Every time I come in from a ride, the gasoline smell fills the garage and my carburetor gaskets get damp.
If my car sat for more than five days, it required excessive cranking to start as the carburetor completely evaporated to empty.
I posted my issue in my blog and was introduced to the term "HOT SOAK". It is not a carburetor problem. Today's fuels are much more volatile and evaporate easily and that seems to be the main culprit.
If you read the last few pages of my blog, the discussion is fully documented and some of the fixes, including a discussion on how to REMOVE THE ETHANOL from your gasoline.
Here are some things I did to minimize the issue:
1. I stopped using the 93 octane Sunoco Ultra and now use 87 octane fuel in my car
2. Using "Play-Doh" on top of the air filter, close the hood to measure the clearance between hood and air cleaner. Stack as many gaskets as possible to get the carburetor off the heat.
3. I've installed an accessory electric fuel pump to fill the carburetor when she sits more than a few days, as much of the fuel was evaporated out by then.
4. When I installed the fuel pump, I installed plug valves fore and aft of the pump (in my mind to make a pump change easier should the unit fail), BUT, as an added benefit, I can now simply shut off the forward plug valve and allow the engine to run out of gas, and there is no evaporation issue, no smell, no wet gaskets when she runs herself dry.
I really only use the #4 shut off valve when I know the car will be sitting for a while or the weather is freezing and I can't leave the door open or company is coming over (the smell).
But it does work.
(You can install a single plug valve anywhere in the fuel line, even right up before the carburetor to shut off the fuel supply to the carburetor. I did mine under the car because I don't like constantly opening the hood and I wasn't even thinking of this "Hot Soak" issue. I was only thinking of making it easier to change the electric fuel pump should it fail.)
First Link is the original carburetor question that explains the "Hot Soak", the smell, today's fuels..... (Touch the arrow in the upper right corner)
Second Link is the 6-part accessory electric fuel pump installation, and the position of the 5/16" in-line plug valves:
I hope this helps you out.
Have a great day! Gary
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And double check the wires are in the proper firing order on both the distributor and the plugs.
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Here is the installation of the driver's door and everything relate to the installation... run channels, vent, glass....
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Hi Jeff!
I restored a '37 Buick a couple years ago, and I'm not sure how much the Buick vent compares to the Pontiac vent mechanism OR how much the '37 differs from your '48..... BUT I think I have a few posts that will help you with the removal / installation of the vent mechanism AND the vertical division run channel:
Just touch the arrow on the upper right and the specific vent window information will open.
Touch the arrow in the upper right corner here to see how to restore / install the vertical division run channel:
If I can forward any other information and photos, please don't hesitate.
Gary
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Running Light/Signal Light Dilemma ‘37 Special
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Here is the link to the discussions regarding the headlight switch and the multi beam system.
When I stepped on the dimmer, the drivers headlamp went out completely, instead of going to a "low beam" or a "cross beam" situation.
I finally found a good restored headlight switch, but have not installed it yet. Being I never drive at night, it hasn't been an issue so far, but its on my rainy day list.
Bloo is correct that one of the internal "triangles" is shaped differently and if they are not in the correct places and orientations the system doesn't operate as designed.
Good Luck with it!
Gary