[1938 Brake Pedal Return Spring position]

Here's a couple photos of my '37 special:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[1937 Buick Special 40 Marvel carb issues, will the Carter WCD 663s replace the stock Marvel CD-1B]

On 12/19/2022 at 7:20 PM, Auldon said:

The question is: Is this all too involved as I am not o carb person.

Auldon:  I swapped out my original Marvel for a CARTER 608S in my '37 Special and never looked back!  Starts quick, runs smooth and strong.

There are a couple things you have to do to make the conversion, but nothing overly complicated!

 

Follow along with my notes below.  I think you'll find the conversion is fairly easy:  Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner:

 

 

 

Or go straight to the conversion without the conversation leading up to it.  (Although the lead up is part of the learning curve!)

 

[ignition wires for a 248]

I used the 90 degree boots on each plug, made sure to run each wire nice and parallel, trying to avoid them bunching over each other.

 

 

There is a small metal clip under the spark cover that should reduce chafing where the wires exit.

And there is just enough room to lay them out evenly

 

 

You can see how the wires exit without any upward pressure to chafe against the cover.

 

 

[My 1938 Buick Century Model 61]

Those photos look like a chewed up cotter pin.  You can release your gear shift lever and check those three springs are intact.

 

A main center spring around the base of the gearshift lever and one spring in each of the retaining "clamshells"

 

 

I had to replace this one

 

These side clamshells also have a spring in them.

 

If I remember correctly, I think there is something safety wired inside the transmission that you can see when the lid is removed.

[1937 Buick Model 40 Delco-Remy Automatic Choke Tech Info Sought]

I'll add my tear down also!  

 

 

[Stromberg Carb Jet Removal]

Just to clarify..  The part that is holding up removal of the bowl cover is that "T" shaped part.  It looks like it has a hole in the bottom that locks with the other part with the pin.  Is that correct?  So after the freezer, should both those parts lift up as a unit?

 

 

ALSO:  Jon.. Do you have information on "running adjustments"?  Specifically, how do I get the automatic choke to open quicker?  It takes a full nine to ten minutes to fully open, although when you manually open the choke (during warm up)  she wants the extra air.

 

Thank you so much!!  I really appreciate it!

Gary

[Resilvering headlight reflectors…where to get done?]

I also had the UVIRA process done on my headlight reflectors and I am very happy with the results.

 

Reflector alone

 

Installed into the housing.  UVIRA recommends you carry a ground wire directly to the socket.  

 

Here's the entire headlight build:

 

 

[Stromberg Carb Jet Removal]

Before I do any damage, can someone please explain how I remove the top of the carburetor (Carter 608S).  There is a part in there with a crossbar that is holding up the removal.  

 

I have the screws out, but when I lift the top, it only moves about 1/2 an inch when it bottoms out on the "crossbar".  How is that part removed so I can lift the top off?

 

 

Appreciate any help for proper disassembly technique.  Thanks!

[Lubricating Leaf Springs]

When I restored my '37, I ordered new leaf springs as the originals had several cracked leaves.  I had each leaf blasted clean, then I painted each leaf both sides with POR-15.  Once the POR-15 dried, I painted "SLIP PLATE" on all the rubbing surfaces.  I've used this on my Model "T" and my Model "A"'s with very nice long term results.  

 

 

Here's the write up from when I did the springs:

 

 

[Which convertibles look better with the top down?]

1914 “T”

[Have a Happy Thanksgiving all.]

A Blessed Thanksgiving to all our AACA families.  

[Which convertibles look better with the top down?]

[1934 Series 40 Distributor Question]

On 11/14/2022 at 7:14 PM, Daves1940Buick56S said:

Now, replacing the bottom pin. What should I use - a roll pin or a solid one?

 

I ultimately swapped out the roll pin for a solid 1/8" steel rod cut to size and peened to secure it:

 

 

[I alway look forward to receiving my copy of the AACA magazine, but the current issue Was really special. With the Chris Ritter tribute]

Class act. 

 

Wonderful tribute to Chris.  

[DELCO-REMY DISTRIBUTOR 663-Y REBUILD (Step-By-Step photo guide to the 663-(?) Distributors)]

Update to the distributor build :    Roll Pin swapped for solid 1/8" Steel Rod

 

When I rebuilt the distributor, I received some good advice:

 

On 10/14/2022 at 3:08 PM, edinmass said:

FYI- The split pin can walk and wonder. I would only use a pin that is staked in place. 

 

I originally used split roll pins to attach the gear to the shaft.  Even though I was able to spread the ends of the roll pins, I ultimately ended up removing the split roll pin and replaced it with 1/8" steel rod.  I got the steel rod from Home Depot, cut it to about 1-1/4".  I worked one side in the vise and using heat and a rivet set, I was able to form a nice head on it.  Then I slid the rod through the gear and shaft, heated the protruding end and peened it so there is no way it can slip out.  Thanks for the advice!  Always appreciated.

 

A couple photos:

 

I cut the rod, secured it in the vise and heated it.  I first used a punch to create the dimple which mushroomed the edges out.

Then I was able to use a rivet set (rivet punch?) to form a head on it.  

 

 

Then over to the distributor gear.  I slid the new rod in and basically did the same thing freehand to peen the other side.

Admittedly, the original side looks a lot nicer, but it is secure now. 

 

Gary

 

 

[1937 Dodge cowl vent gasket]

3 hours ago, ufo_mt said:

does anybody have a pic of a cowl vent gasket placement on a 36 dodge bro  thanks

I have pictures from my '37 Buick...  maybe they will help you

 

I did a few "dry fits" first to be sure I had the correct angle, the seal fit in the groove properly

 

I covered the paint with towels and laid in a thin bead of 3M weather strip adhesive.  See the yellow line down in there.

With the bead placed, I gently sat the rubber seal in position

 

 

Next, to ensure it seals nice, I placed the cowl vent cover over the new seal and checked my gaps all around.

 

Once satisfied with the position, I placed a little weight on it to allow it all to set nice and straight.

 

all done!

 

34 minutes ago, Gary56 said:

Where can I get a cowling vent gasket for my 1929 graham paige?

I got all my rubber parts from Steele Rubber.  Maybe some models will cross over for you

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Late 30’s Cadillac - The car that won’t stay fixed.]

On 11/9/2022 at 12:40 AM, brasscarguy said:

As for the cheapest customers are always the professionals, doctors, real estate people, and dentists.

Ouch!

[1932 temperature gauge]

I used Bob's for all my gauges and I am very happy with their work.  

 

[VW Photos for Peter G]

Meet Ingrid..  1967 Convertible.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Disassembly of motion activated clock light in glove compartment]

Found them:

I hope some of the 1937 translates over to your 1939 clock, but here is how I did it:

 

I got the harness from Rhode Island Wiring.  This my original clock with wires.

The side socket is a press fit into the side socket holder.  Remove the bulb and gently push the socket out of the holder.

 

 

Remove the back screws to access the wire attachments.

With that side socket out of its holder, again its just a press fit holding the top and bottom of the socket together.

Easy pull and slight twist and the two halves will come apart.  

WATCH for the tiny balls will fall out.

 

 

Unsolder the socket button off the wire and everything will come apart.

Inside is the cardboard insulator ring and the disc where those small balls stay.

 

 

Sorry for the horrible upper photo, but that is the order of assembly of the internal parts in the lower part of the socket.

After running the wire through all the various insulators, springs....  solder the new button onto the end of your new wire.

 

 

Push the socket back together with the balls, slide the socket into the holder, new light.

 

Hope these photos shed a little light on the project!

 

If you need anything else, I think I have more photos.  Just go slow. 

Photograph everything coming apart so you get it right.

Gary

[Disassembly of motion activated clock light in glove compartment]

In my '37, I re-wired both sockets attached to the clock.  The lower one illuminates the clock face, the side one lights when the door opens and the little "BB's" make the connection.

 

I just re-read my post from that part of the restoration and it seems like I just ran a new wire to that side socket, keeping all the internal guts..  BUT I will have to check my photos from that night.  I'm sure I have it documented how I got in there.  

 

 

[Fuel priming pump?]

I installed an electric "priming pump" for the same reason.    After sitting about a week, starting was a long cranking experience.  

 

Follow this post for the entire install:  Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner.

 

 

[Generator, Distributor and Starter Delco Remy tags]

32 minutes ago, 32PONTIAC said:

Any place to get a tag with the 2 fields and have them with numbers

stamped in them? Also how is the best way to remove tag for replacemnt

aren't they rivited in place? 

 

[DELCO-REMY DISTRIBUTOR 663-Y REBUILD (Step-By-Step photo guide to the 663-(?) Distributors)]

Distributor Data Tag:

 

I thought this would be a good place to insert a parallel discussion on the Distributor Data Tag:

 

If your data tag is hopelessly deformed, bent, missing...  Bob's sells a reproduction tag for the Delco-Remy distributor.  There are two styles:

1. A "two-window" style that has the Model # in the left side window (663-Y) and the serial # in the right window (The one I used here)

2. A "one-window" style that has one large window that has both the model # and serial #.

 

If you are going to keep your original tag, I recommend covering it with tape prior to using a wire wheel to clean the distributor as the metal is so thin it'll be ruined.

Keep it covered for the painting process and just use the "paint and wipe" technique (or a sharpie marker) afterward to restore the color and text.

 

Here's the discussion:  (Just touch the arrow in the upper corner)

 

 

 

And another parallel discussion about the various tags and the changes:

 

 

Good Stuff!

[Show me your Foliage!]

One more!