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justinsdad

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  1. It's been a while since I posted, and I figured it was time for an update. The car went for rust repair and a base coat of hot rod black paint last winter, and this weekend we finally reinstalled the seats that my wife and I reupholstered ourselves. The car just needs a tune-up and a minor electrical issue resolved before it's fully road worthy. These forums have been invaluable in our slow quest to rebuild and rehabilitate this car that we bought 11 years ago as a non-runnimg project, we are so appreciative of all the help and advice we've received along the way!
  2. Hi all I finally got around to calling Lebaron-Bonney, and the mystery is solved! The part in question is called Door Cording or Edge Welt, and they both make and sell it. They were super helpful to talk to as well; even though they're super busy they took the time to look at this post, take the question out to their floor manager and find out what the part is we're looking for. Color options from their website, in case anyone else is looking for the same thing: http://www.lebaronbonney.com/webcatalogs/fabric/files/assets/basic-html/page-22.html
  3. Hi Spinney The Windlace you show goes around the door openings, on the body of the car not the doors (e.g. it doesn't move when the doors open and close). The stuff around the windo frame is similar, but much thinner, maybe 3/16 or 1/4" wide. It's starting to look like this is a make-it-yourself kind of item. Sigh... further down the rabbit hole we go!
  4. It does, but I've been unable to find a part listing for it anywhere including CPR I may break down and call LeBaron-Bonney and see if they have any ideas. I'll report back if I get anywhere with them.
  5. Hi all I crossposted this last week in the parts wanted forum but thought I'd try here as well. I'm rebuilding my interior after a rewiring project required pulling the headliner and dash out. That led to painting the dash and windshield trim, which led to painting the inside window moldings. I've been able to identify all of the necessary replacement parts so far but this one (pics attached). It's a length of cording that's sewn to a cardboard strip which tucks into the window trim, and it runs around the upper 3/4 of all 4 doors. I've heard it called an anti-r
  6. Hi again, all I've managed to trip over yet another part where I don't know what to search for, so have no idea whether this part is hard to come by or not. Backstory: I've rewired my '47 Torpedo from tip to tail with a (very excellent) wiring harness from Rhode Island wiring. To do that I had to pull the dash, headliner and many other ancillary parts, including the absolutely shredded windlace and other cloth components - all of it was torn, nasty and needs repair/ replacement. While I had it apart, I decided to paint the window garnish moldings sinc
  7. Thanks! I've contacted the seller, we'll see what they say. The fenders have had the headlight buckets stripped, so that only gets me part of the way there
  8. Hi pont35cpe Thanks for the info, I just tried to call them and they're closed until after Labor day I'll try them again next week, but their parts listing stopped at 1950. Rubin
  9. Hi all We've gotten through the bulk of the mechanical overhaul on our rig: It's basically been rebuild from a mechanical perspective. It's got new brakes and lines all the way around, new fuel lines, freshly lined tank, rebuild card, new motor(!), rebuilt generator and starter. In running the new headlight wiring, I realized how rough the upper fenders and headlight buckets are (see attached photos). The rest of the fenders are in great shape, it's just the top of the fenders by the headlights, where mud and crap cakes up from the wheels that's all rusted out. S
  10. I've got a '47 Torpedo with some rust-through around the headlights. I'm looking for a pair of fenders, or patches that could be welded in to repair the rusty bits. Anything out there? Thanks in advance!
  11. Hey Bloo I'm happy to report that Norman (that's what we've decided to name the car) is running great. I tinkered with the carb and it started nearly every time. The hot start issue is caused by something with the accelerator pump, and if it doesn't fire right up when it's hot, holding the accelerator to the floor will usually do it. Once in a blue moon it needs a short shot of ether to start when it's hot (like, it's happened twice now, the above being one of them). Thanks everyone for your help on this long running thread, I'm very happy to report that we've move to other
  12. One more update in this loooong thread and associated saga! Last fall, I ran out of warm-ish weather before we were able to get the car running, so we parked her for the winter. Last week, I was finally both inspired and had a little free time, and was able to take the advice of a family friend who came and looked at the Pontiac. His observation was that it sounded like everything was set as it should be, and that 6v was just not enough to turn her over fast enough to start it. S we put a tow strap on my truck, and pulled her around for about 150' until she fired up! It smoked l
  13. Hi all Thanks Bloo for your post, you're correct, the oil pump gear was off by a tooth or two. I reset it so that no.1 firing is at about 4 o'clock (matching where it was originally, and in agreement with the photo you posted). I then marked on the distributor where no. 1 cylinder's plug wire is, then turned the motor until no.1 cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke (turned the motor over with my thumb on the spark plug hole, stopped when I felt air escaping, advanced until the flywheel timing mark is visible). Finally, I turned the distributor until the rotor was pointing dire
  14. Hey again, y'all The adventure continues! A little background, and response to fraso's good advise: Before I reassembled the power plant and put it back in the car I pulled the head, and inspected it and the block carefully. I replaced the head gasket with a new one, and before I assembled the water pump etc. I pulled the water distribution tube and replaced that with the significantly cleaner one from the original motor. I also opened the valve covers and had a look in there, and everything is clean as a whistle. The old motor, on the other hand, was *completely* sludged
  15. So, it's been nearly a year since my last (sad) post so I thought I'd follow up with the latest on Old '47. After finding that the engine block was cracked, we ended up putting the car back together and parking her for the winter. Shortly after my last post describing our trevails, I was contacted by a longtime forum member who had a motor that had been rebuilt back in the 80s, and was only a few hours drive away. My son and I trucked down their way, met him and his wife (nicest folks ever!) and brought the engine back home. This summer, in amongst too many other projects and diver
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