89RedDarkGrey

YES. Like I said before- others complain about the stance, height, etc. The "Ground Effects" are already there- their just stupidly hidden by the color. I think "lowering" the body color would dramatically change the overall appearance.

retiredmechanic74 also has the Air Dam painted the body color. Hmm... I'm going to experiment with my PhotoScape on a photo. I'm thinking- when I paint my car soon- just shoot that too.

This isn't really a "power" enhancement idea- but I was wondering- without robbing someone else's photo- how would painting the Air Dam the car's body color- make the front look? Ronnie has pics of his car in another thread. I think (especially red) a red Air Dam would make the nose "look" lower. Being merely flat black- hides it, making the nose look really high.

LOL I "found" that for Ronnie a while ago- he thanked me, and he put it on ROJ. Credits go to a YouTuber named Rivlanta.He has many valuable videos on Buicks.

At least the Reatta is ok (that's how I would feel anyway) I'd pour a couple gallons of liquid Lysol down where the water went. Black Mold will make your house unlivable. You really can't open windows to air it out; the water will freeze, and jack boards apart, crack walls, etc.

Southern States area. +90F & 85% humidity. AC on. Traffic. Underhood temps can easily exceed 150F.

And anyone who reads this- please- don't ever use one of those filters you spray "wax" or some "coating" on. It gets on the MAF and cooks to it, and could easily ruin the MAF.

I'd be weary of big power on a 2 bolt main setup.

My '71 Nova had a "Thermostatic" air cleaner on it's 250 cid 1 bbl Rochester. Just below the snorkel, was a duct attached to a sheet metal shroud around the exhaust manifold called the Heat Stove. A bimetal sensor in the air cleaner- controlled whether vacuum was operating a diaphragm servo- that controlled a damper door to the Stove. The valve got stuck once- and the heated air made the hot engine ping. Warm air in a cold, carbureted engine will make it run smoother.

As usual- all those do is sound cool. Without a cover- to properly duct in actual outside ("cold") air- those setups generally suck in hot (warmer than outside engine compartment) air, slightly skewing any reading put out by the Air Charge Sensor (assuming most users even hook them up) and ultimately changing the air/fuel map. It's ok if you're retuning anyway, or have a completely Aftermarket ECM-ECU-PCM or a variance of those, in a more "modern" setup.

Just because the 4T60E and 4T65E were meant to handle higher inputs from beefier engines- doesn't mean all that.

Well- at least it got some "national attention" and the Reatta name is "out there".

Here's some nifty info for us-

Sorry about that one- I'm wrong. I was just envisioning a rich mix would be burning stuff. I totally forgot about extra fuel actually "cooling" though evaporation.

You can very easily upgrade an LN3 and an L27 to tear up their transmissions. The L67 was Factory coupled with an SC, but only after some major tweaking. The automatic transmission has always been the weakest link. Higher pressure pump, adjustable regulator, a remapped ECM PROM, and larger injectors could easily snap the internals of a plain OEM TH440/4T60 ME9 on an '88-'89 Reatta. The Series I Supercharged engine went through many internal changes and the horsepower changed rapidly between the time it was introduced and the time that the Series II L36 was introduced. The M62 supercharger was manufactured by Eaton, exclusively for the GM 3800 engine. HP was rated at 205 for 1991-1993 engines (models vary), and 225 for 1994-1995 engines. Some of the additional horsepower for 1994-95 engines was gained by using epoxy (not Teflon as commonly believed) coated supercharger rotors to improve efficiency, and a larger supercharger inlet and throttle body. The 1994-1995 utilized a 2.85-inch (72.4 mm) pulley versus the 2.55-inch (64.8 mm) pulley used on the 91-93 supercharger. Applications: 1991–1995: Buick Park Avenue Ultra 1992–1995: Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight LS (opt), LSS (opt) Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight Regency Elite (opt), Touring Sedan Pontiac Bonneville SE with H4U RPO, not badged - SLE (opt. SC package), SSE (opt) & SSEi 1995 Only: Buick Riviera(Opt)

(that's why Builders "in the know" are mounting stuff in the back, away from the hot engine)

A vacuum leak would cause the O2 sensor to go rich. A large enough leak would act like a choke, causing a large enough enrichment to dramatically raise exhaust temps. Warming the engine slightly closes the leak- but give it throttle- and it falls on it's face lean. The closest Data PIDS a Reatta can show you on board to ST/LT fuel trims is O2 Cross Counts (ED18), Fuel Integrator (ED19), BLM (ED20). We need some data- or we're shootin in the dark here. Easiest and safest way to search for a vacuum leak- get a squirt/mist bottle of water, engine running, squirt around the intake/block interfaces, EGR, EGR adapter, throttle body, PCV. When the engine stumbles- there you go.

This could be a vacuum leak.

Dealer OEM is going to be a ridiculous price.

That would've been nice- Olds had a beautiful 350-R like my '77 Cutlass. M4M Rochester- it would haul. No, no RWD Reatta.

Nothing special about beveled machine screws at Lowes or Home Depot. (Stove bolts)

My complete setup was $170 new. 3 coils, ICM, Bracket.

who?

WTB: 1 custom vacuum block...

I really like that custom manifold vacuum block you've made. Could you please elaborate on it- PM me some closeups? Is it billet? Thank you.