89RedDarkGrey

I, too- plan to relocate the filter, and run nylon lines entirely.

Use a dab of silicone paste or dielectric grease on the solenoid O-ring, it will slip in easier and ensure seal.

Dear Ronnie- If you'd like to- you're more than welcome to grab my edited TEVES video from my YouTube channel, and imbed it to the new Tutorials section you've created for ROJ. The video Embed Code is https://www.youtube.com/embed/NYvuG736MMU and the regular link is https://youtu.be/NYvuG736MMU If you find anything else there useful- go ahead and put it on ROJ. I am very sorry for causing you- and other Members in the Club so much trouble, I never intended to harm or insult anyone. Please except my apology. I also apologize to anyone here that I offended. Sincerely, Bob

I enjoy LOUD thumping bass in my car. I built a system that I'm happy with. The "shelf" is 1" marine waterproof plywood, covered with black material, the same as the speaker enclosures and trunk.The 2 Sub enclosures, and Caps are bolted to it, and Amps are attached to the Sub enclosures. The unit is about 40 pounds, and fits perfectly on the rear compartment area. The Head Unit's memory +5v is always connected, but the main power is switched from inside the arm rest compartment. All 4 speakers have blue LED. SPEAKERS REAR= 2 12" Pioneer 450 watt Ferro fluid (subs) FRONT= 2 6" Dual Illuminite 250 watt 3-way AMPS 3 200 watt (bridged) Sosche VR3 with 2 Sosche 1 Farad Digital Caps HEAD UNIT Jensen CD315X 30Wx4 EQ Boss AVA 1202 120W Music storage is USB thumb drives, remote FM transmitter, plugged into lighter- stowed away in armrest with Head Unit face in case. All images are zoomable.

I brought this up a while back- a few Members thought it was sound advice. At the rear of the throttle body, coming off the EGR adapter is a black metal tube. The large diameter tube is where a vacuum brake booster would attach. Hardly anyone notices this, but there is a rubber cap over the end. Rear of engine heat plus 28 years really deteriorate rubber hoses and the like. I renewed mine- when I found it was severely cracked and leaking. You don't want a chunk of it ingesting into the engine.

Of what?

Yes, I agree- many times it can be as simple as a leaky tank cap. Activated charcoal used for this purpose (fumes) acts as a "sponge" for the V.O.C's and over time, does get saturated.There are many varied opinions on this topic. THIS is an excellent video, describing my earlier advice of repairing your existing canister. Some good explanations and advice can also be found HERE.

Thank you for not snapping at me, I'm always trying to help out Please- take some nice photos of stuff.

Well that sounds great! Good idea, DAVES89 I was going to ask you to try and match one from HERE, I've never had mine out before, so I don't know what OEM looks like. It's basically just a 2 ported plastic box. BTW- sorry for that goose chase @RockAuto, I didn't notice the red lettering OUT OF STOCK

Me too

The EVAP charcoal does have a "shelf life", just as with any component. I have never done it- but there are many videos explaining how to renew the charcoal, which does wear out- 28 years is way overdue. Your local aquatic pet store carries activated charcoal, and you can go the easier route by simply getting a "ready made" aquarium charcoal filter pack; it's a nonwoven material bag, with activated charcoal in it. EVAP canisters are usually ultrasonically welded polypropylene or ABS, very easily dissected then epoxied together. Our Diagnostics AFAIK do not have purge solenoid continuity sensing (ES05 override to control) and an ECM code E045 Rich Exhaust would only appear if a quantity of extra fuel was present, but there is no EVAP leak sensing like newer cars have. A NEW VALVE is cheap. 28 year old rubber diaphragms exposed to fuel fumes are easily brittle and hard. You can also use a HANDHELD GAUGED VACUUM PUMP to check the system (valve, lines) too. You just renewed the fuel tank- the EVAP is part of that system, too.

Let's hope you don't need new motors next Cooling fan motors

I had a Hatchback ('88 Nissan) that even with new struts- it was so heavy it wouldn't unlatch. I then installed 2 of similar to THESE and my worries were over. You can easily sand or file the top to shave it down, to lessen the force. Reattas have a "dimpled" area on each side, that would work perfectly.

Would it be possible to use that relay-harness headlight kit for the taillight module, just for the taillights and 2 markers on corners?

http://thereattastore.com/h4-100w-ceramic-fused-pnp-heavy-duty-automotive-wiring-harness-headlight-foglight-booster-relay-12v/

I am very sorry for acting that way Enoytsur, please accept my apology. I meant no disrespect towards you, or your Mechanic. I get over zealous at times, pointing out what I've done for my Reatta.

This is what I'm installing soon. http://thereattastore.com/h4-100w-ceramic-fused-pnp-heavy-duty-automotive-wiring-harness-headlight-foglight-booster-relay-12v/ Very easy install. Some users have complained about the quality and durability of the included relays- which are easily substituted with a superior brand, if you wish.