chistech
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Posts posted by chistech
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I am looking for a complete decarbonizer if anyone has one or info on one.
Ted
978-337-4617
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I'll call you tomorrow.
Ted
978-337-4617
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Where in Ma are you located and are you available during the day for viewing? Can I call for more questions?
Thanks, Ted
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Your car is supposed to have the vent and ventalation windshield. The board above the windshield should have a regulator mounted to it to raise and lower the windshield. There are two pockets on the upper sash that the pins from the regulator go in and are visable in your pictures. So you are not only missing the wood board, but most likely the regulator. Your Buick is basically the same as my 31' Chevy 4dr Special Sedan. Did you ever try contacting Jim at Autowood Restoration, he specializes in Chevy and all GM cars. He could help you with that windshield header board. It will have very specific routed areas and holes located for the windshield regulator.
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a.Carter RAJX carb: rebuilt with new bowl, standpipe, venturi, and gasket kitb. rim tool and lug wrench: needed to change tires on split rims, in really nice usable condition,c. 2 headlights: buckets are good with no dents, just surface rust, connectors look good, one aluminum rim is rotted, reflectors look good, very restorable condition,d. 28' fuel tank with working manual gauge: I bought this for the gauge. Have removed threaded ring and gauge from tank so all parts are usable. Will need to have numbers repainted and cork float sealed.e. brand new tail pipe:Asking $525 for package. Will break up.
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Did you get your parts? I might have a lead on a 30 block. The distributor lock bolt is actually a slotted head screw with a jamb nut. It is not a hex head. I would think that there are many years that would work for you. The oiler is probably a different story. If you haven't found one I can inquire with a local guy.
Ted
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13 months! LOL. A lot of spare time went into it. I found I ended up doing it mostly myself because of the "time" limitations I was given by the interior guys. Luckily my buddy owns a paint shop and after doing my own tin knocking and some body work, I did most of the wet sanding and prepping in his shop. Many hours of scuff padding on the already painted (but painted incorrectly) parts, then lots of time just getting it ready for the paint booth. Once in the booth and the first color sprayed, there was a good amount of late night hours masking for the second color. I didn't have to pay much for the painting labor because of my buddy's graciousness and me working with him. Paint materials alone were around $1,500.
I spoke with the 4 interior shops and they all gave me 1-2yr times so I thought that was crazy. With the encouragement of a fellow VCCA member, I went at the interior myself. I have now started a hobby business installing interiors for the very reason I did my own. Plus, with prices ranging from $3,600 to $4,500 for a full interior install, doing it myself served double duty. I would still be looking at it in my garage with a bare interior if I waited for an opening with any of the shops. So my car was on the road in just over and year, plus I saved $4k! I have worked out a business arrangement with Hampton Coach/LeBaron Bonney interiors to offer their interiors at a discount and special installation pricing for my first 10 customers.
I have been showing my car at shows mostly for advertising, both for me and my buddy's paint work. I have taken either all first place trophys or top place ones in all shows I entered. Best thing is, I've gotten a lot of inquires and leads for upcoming interior and roof work. I am trying to specialize in factory type aluminum roof moldings rather than the commonly used wire-on and hidem type materials. This is especially important for people showing in point shows. I have my own machine shop in my garage and make my own bending jigs depending on the vehicle. Each new model allows me to build my jig inventory for future roofing jobs. My buddy is offering paint jobs so together we are offering a quality service to antique auto enthusiasts. We also can pick up and deliver within a reasonable distance to our locations with an enclosed trailer.
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Pair of 32' 1 1/2t truck axles. No driveshaft showing in the torque tube. Front wheel brakes stuck and wheels are not turning. $225 for all. Springs included
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28' Chevy head that came off a running motor. Is complete with valves and rocker arms/shafts. Has not been magnafluxed or disassembled. Perfect to hot rod that model T or restore your Chevy. These are getting hard to find in good condition. Pictures coming soon. $200
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I have a 28' Chevrolet engine and trans mounted on a channel iron stand. Was a power plant for a cord wood saw. Has a special long updraft intake with an off brand carb. Motor runs and starts extremely well. Cooling water was supplied by a hose. Has gauge panel but gauges are rough. Trans does move out of gear but does so stiffly. It was mainly used in 2nd. I was told motor was originally re-used in a marine/boat application. Has a water fitting in exhaust manifold (rough)this is supposed reason for long updraft intake and carb. Carb is centered at crank level for less float issues in boat applications (again, this is what I was told) Motor and trans is dirty with very little original paint and surface rust but other than that, it is a super nice running motor. Idles and accelerates well and I did NOT clean the carb at all. Motor hadn't run in 30yrs and you wouldn't know it. I do have correct intake, carb, and exhaust manifold if the buyer needs it. I can arrange shipping and take to a trucking terminal.
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The intention was to only restore what was needed to make the car drivable, like a new roof, glass, running boards, and where the front fenders meet the running boards. Interior and exterior were going to stay as is. The car is now sold.
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Yes, 1929'. Motor is now running and runs well but does have a knock under acceleration. Starts easily and runs very quiet at idle. Early 29' motor with crank case vent can on rear of block. On ebay now and will to accept reasonable offers.
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Realized I've never come back and posted on my progress. I finished my restoration in 13months. I've done well at the local shows and have gotten many compliments. All work except the actual spraying of the paint, was done by me. It was a full nut and bolt rotisserie restoration.
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Hello,
Do you still have the running boards/splash aprons and the rear tire rack?
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I didn't mean by my first post that I wanted to restore this car and make any money. What I meant was I didn't want to offer too much so when I was done I was way beyond it's worth just on dollars spent. All parts to finish the car are there and are either new or excellent original so there's not much more cost for parts. The only thing left to paint is some small linkage parts and the main body. Fenders, doors, hood, running boards, rad apron, 6 wheels, and dash are all painted. Luckily my buddy owns the best paint shop in the state and he gives me very good prices. So the additional costs will be painting the body and small parts, doing the roof (possibly I can do, but not sure), and getting it titled/registered. I am moving it myself, have a 30x60 garage with lift, overhead hoist, and heat. I have now also learned the motor and trans have been completely rebuilt and the motor has been pickled.
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Thanks for your response. I spent more time at the woman's house and went through more things. I did purchase the car in my low range and will be getting home in the next couple weeks. I will get some pictures up once I get back from vacation. I am pretty much prepared to do this restoration. Here is some shots of my most recent I finished about 4 months ago.
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Hello All,
I'm new to this forum (1st post) having looked it up on the web. Many years ago I restored a 23' T Huckster for our family's business and then never did another vehicle till I just finished my 83' K5 (originally a M1009). The K5 was an involved rotisserie restoration from a very basic to a full blown civilian, plush model. I've always loved the late 20's to early 30's cars especially the Chevys. I once had a ride in an original condition 32' roadster that was immaculate. Even though that was many years ago when I was a young kid I've never forgotten that car.
Yesterday my neighbor, who had come over a few times to talk over the last year while I was working on my K5 in the garage, called me to tell me he had done some electrical work at a woman's house here in town. Turns out her husband passed about 6m ago and she wants to sell his last project that he was working on. I went to see it today and here's the scoop.
31' 4 door sedan. Twin side mounts. Chassis has been completely redone including axles/wheels w/new tires. The brake rods, pedal shaft and small fixtures have not been painted or installed. Body is in primer and bare metal in places with very light brown rust. Has one dent on pass rear corner about 8" that has been repaired but not good, will need to be done over. Motor and trans are out of car, both turn over and motor looks good but does not appear to have been restored yet. Body wood is original or restored and all excellent including roof. 4 fenders are finished/painted new with cream and brown paint. All doors are painted same as fenders. New radiator, stone guard, running boards, aprons, rad. apron. Hood is painted new also. Complete new interior in boxes, all seats/springs are VG. New gas tank, new trunk rack, new trunk. Two new tires on spares for sidemounts. Glass, moulding, headliner, 2 steering wheels, rubber roof, etc. All parts are new pretty much. The only parts I didn't see but everything is in boxes in her cellar is the dash, gauge cluster panel, and the headlight bow. I would tend to believe everything is there and I just didn't see it.
She has all these parts covered and dry in boxes all marked with their contents. There are many manuals and literature. There are also extra parts like bumpers, pair of complete axles, and hubcaps. In general it is a basket case but complete and well started. Here is my dilemma
Her asking price, which she said is negotiable, is $5,500 as is. Looking at what the 4 drs are selling for on Ebay and some other sites and not knowing the condition of the motor/trans, I don't think I can offer to pay her price. While I'm not one of those people looking to steal something I can't pay more than I should either. I'm thinking in the $3-4k max. range. Even with all the brand new parts, unless my resto is a very high point job it's only a $12-$13k car if I want to really sell it someday. I see cars with $18-$22k prices but they aren't selling and some nice ones have sold for just less than $10k running/driving/old resto. Maybe I'm wrong with my price so I'm asking.
Please let me know your opinions and thanks in advance,
Ted
FS 1932 Olds Roadster (Conv Coupe) 15K
in Oldsmobile - Buy/Sell
Posted
I have made an agreement to buy this car with the seller and will be getting it later this week. The Oldsmobile club has a new member too!