Oregon Desert model 45
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Posts posted by Oregon Desert model 45
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1924-1928 Model 25 Left Front door
sheetmetal is pretty straight, dings have been removed
enough original wood for pattern
hinges included$70 plus shipping
location: near Portland, OR
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1923 Model 35 Right Rear door
has some rust through
wood seems solid.$50 plus shipping
location: near Portland, OR
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as long as evilbay allows sellers to list every automotive term, year, make, model, etc, like this screen grab (plus 3 additional blocks of terms) in their ad, you can't possibly filter out whatever gadget they are trying to sell.
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Hello and welcome to mid 1920s Buicks. You have a 1926 Standard Model 26-25.
I am guessing that you are located in Australia ?
Below are photos of 1925 Standard hood (top) irons which are probably the same for 1926.
Original rests are very difficult to find. They apparently rattled loose and fell to the side of the road.
If you post a new member message with photo below in Pre-War Buick section the rest of the early Buick owners can assist with locating parts and tips for working on your Buick
https://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war/
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If there are slotted bolt holes through this edge flange then it is 1931. 1930 splash shields were spot welded to a narrow flange without bolt holes. I converted a 1930 to 1931 by drilling out the spot welds and welding a 1-1/2" strip of sheetmetal to that narrow flange.
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Hello and welcome to the Forum
The link above should prove to be very helpful. Removing a 1924 pump should be slightly easier than 1925 (as described by the link) because that support bearing is located forward of the pump which provides a little more working room.
Show us your car - we like photos.
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The fuel gauge requires a good ground to the gas tank and over time rust will degrade the bonding. Also over time the sending unit inside the tank can get cruddy from gasoline varnish. New replacement sending units should be available. Drop the gas tank and see what is going on, and before reinstalling make sure there is a bonding path between tank and body.
Vacuum wiper motors can get stuck from old hard grease and may need to be cleaned out or rebuilt. Also the vacuum tubing gets old and brittle and could be leaking.
If there is any more wiring on the car that has cracked or missing insulation like that horn wire you should consider replacing it.
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Open up the valve and check the spring - it probably needs replacing. The maintenance manual might provide some guidance for spring compression rate in selecting a new spring. My 1924 pressure relief valve spring was rusted and would have resulted in no oil pressure if I did not replace it.
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probably a combination ignition / light switch. Based on shape of the cowl and absence of windshield this might be a race car with switch mounted through the firewall instead of mounted inside on a dashboard.
Might be easier to identify the car make and some expert can tell you exactly what it is.
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There is one on ebay for sale by Frenchlakeautoparts in Minnesota.
https://www.ebay.com/str/frenchlakeautopartsstore
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There is a 1928 Master parts car in central PA for sale. That motor might not be much better than what you have now. The owner is not a regular here so I don't know if he will respond. Follow this link to his original thread. BTW cracks in the lower part of the cooling jacket are common; mine was welded decades ago.
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Sorry for delay.
Hood is available.
Shipping estimated to be $175 via USPS and just barely under maximum size & weight
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Pete
that is probably a 1926 Standard. 1928 Standard and Master would have a thermostat in the coolant inlet and crank hole in the lower tank
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I am afraid that aggressive use of that puller may have overtraveled the axle shaft and jammed the spline end into the bevel gear. No notch is visible on the splined end in the Full floating axle picture, which suggests that is not held in with a C clip like a non-floating axle.
Try pulling the other side. If it pulls out easily, that will answer the question.
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"The last resort would be to start taking the hub apart, thanks for the diagrams/pictures"
That should NOT be the last resort! The hub and axle must be pulled out first to expose the big nut that holds the wheel to the axle, pictured below. Using the puller configured as you have could damage the differential, the threaded end of axle tube, or the 6 studs.
By now the axle shaft has been loosened up inside the driving hub, and if you were to drive the car around the block, there is a high risk of shearing the key and damaging keyways in both axle and hub.
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That looks like a floating rear axle which was also used by Buick. Those 6 nuts attach the driving hub to the wheel. Remove those and the outer hub and axle shaft can be pulled out. Then you will see a big nut that holds the wheel bearing and wheel on the axle housing. There might be a big star type keeper that has to be bent away from the nut before it can be turned. . If you have an original tool kit with the car there may be a hub wrench that fits the big nut similar to this one pictured below. If you don't have the original wrench, there might be a modern socket that will fit. My Buick uses a 2-1/2" nut and those are available. Sometimes the nut has previously been removed using hammer and chisel which buggers them up. Left side will have left handed threads. Once the big nut has been removed it still might be necessary to use a puller to get the wheel off.
I machined a plug that fit into the end of the axle tube for the puller to react against so the end would not get damaged.
Kevin
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Around 1926 Buick Standard models
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I had the same issue and could see the casting was very cracked, though not the full extent until getting the cover off. Tried heating with hot water but that did not work, so used the heat gun to heat it and channel locks to grip the connector. It unscrewed and nothing broke.
Kevin
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The center raised area on this one has been hammered flat so it will need to be restored with a bead roller & tipping wheel. Some rust on one side panel.
$100 plus shipping
located near Portland Oregon
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1922 Buick ? ignore the Model A tail lights and brackets mounted on this car
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1927 Buick Master Harrison Radiator 248D
honeycomb in good condition
filler neck threads are good
no apparent leaks
$400 plus shipping
location: near Portland, OR
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The hubs look like 1923 hub design which is why I concluded they had been transplanted onto later wheels. Wheel bearings used in a 1923 wheel remained in use up to 1928 and then changed in 1929, which explains the necessity for transplanting the early hub to later wheel.
FS 1924-1928 Buick Model 25 Left Rear door
in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted
1924-1928 Model 25 Left Rear door
sheetmetal is pretty straight, dings have been removed
enough original wood for pattern
hinges included
$70 plus shipping
location near Portland OR