Oregon Desert model 45
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Posts posted by Oregon Desert model 45
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The cowl with chalked "39" matches this 1929 Whippet.
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Buick must have had a design engineer with one specialty designing emergency brake levers, and he had to justify his existence by redesigning them almost yearly. The upper end that you see from the drivers seat is identical, but the bottom end has many configurations. The ratchet and pawl also have multiple configurations. To make things more ambiguous, the only marking I have seen is at the bottom end of the lever and is not a full part number. These two levers that I have are probably somewhere around 1928 but I can't pinpoint the exact year.
The release rod really does not have to sustain much of a load, its only function is to release the ratchet. I would suggest your first step is to weld yours and see if it holds. Perhaps cut it off 1/2" up the shaft and splice a new bent end so the weld is not right on the bend.
Kevin
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The black and orange car appears to be a 28-20 two door sedan which is the smaller Standard series. Parts interchange between Standard and the larger Master series is limited to a handful of parts such as hood latches, distributer and not a lot else. Buick also made a lot of year to year changes in the mid 20's which further complicates finding the correct parts. I find the Buick Master Parts list to be very helpful for figuring out parts usage and recommend getting a copy. The seats the 29StudiePres has pictured above looks right to me.
https://www.amazon.com/1916-1932-Buick-Master-Reprint-All-Models/dp/B007W69SDA
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There are 3 sheetmetal channel shaped clips that are fastened to the raised bosses on the back side which hold the heat choke panel to the dash. The clip dimensions are 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" x .060. Third photo I believe to be an original, the others I made. This heat choke plate is a little different from most because it originally had a diecast potmetal backing plate with a brass veneer crimped over the edges. The potmetal was disintegrating, so I fabricated a steel backing plate to replace the original.
Kevin
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The Burtz engine has been covered extensively on the Fordbarn, from concept, to finished engines.
This thread details cost breakdown. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328461&highlight=burtz
Also many youtube videos on engine assembly.
Search for "Burtz" on Fordbarn or youtube.
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I welded up the extra holes that had been drilled through the windshield stanchions for windwings. I was impressed how well that old cast steel behaved during welding, and the welds came out beautiful when it was done.
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That cracking must have been a known issue when the car was new. The reaction arm on this 1924 axle appears to have been beefed up significantly compared to a 1923.
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My lathe is a 9" SB so its too small to load and turn a band that fits into a 14" brake drum.
I bought new 12mm springs to replace the broken old 1/2" dia springs, then rebent the ends to offset the hook like the original. Unfortunately the keeper digs into the spring when installed on the backing plate which I think will prevent the brake from retracting properly. The old spring has a flat spot worn on the side from this interference. I bought another pair of 10mm springs to see if they will clear the keeper.
Kevin
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looks about right for Buick. does it have a crease along the forward inboard edge ? There is a step where the runningboard connects that my 1925 Buick fenders do not have.
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After relining the brake bands, the rear wheel would not go on the axle. What I found is the new 3/16" lining on the emergency bands was too thick, verified by placing the band in the drum and stuffing a 1" wide wood block into the band gap, which duplicates the block on the backing plate. The band is completely stuck. Another band with old lining has proper clearance. I assume the lining should be 5/32" x 1-3/4 but have not found a supplier yet. The main brake band lining came from Mcmaster-carr but the thinnest listed on their website is 3/16". Ford emergency brake band lining is 5/32" so I know somebody is making it. What other supplier sells 5/32" x 1-3/4" lining ?
Kevin
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Hugh
shouldn't that be 11/16-16 thread ? it is a non-standard size today.
I had to machine down a 3/4" bolt to 11/16 and thread it to make that shackle bolt. An 11/16-16 tap was necessary because the frame horn is threaded and it needed to be chased and cleaned up. I did find 11/16-16 lock nuts for some sort of hydraulic bulkhead fitting.
Kevin
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Yes they are available and very helpful figuring out which parts interchange between years.
https://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1916-1932-Buick-Master-Parts-Book-Reprint-All-Models
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1 hour ago, Robert Engle said:
With proper specs, The piece is lathe work. I would trust a good steel lathe turned piece over old cast parts
I was thinking this too. The only critical feature about this spacer is the ends are faced parallel. It could be machined from solid barstock, or a piece of heavy wall tubing welded to a round slug for the wide end, then machined.
Kevin
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A little more digging through the parts box turned up 2 more spacers. 190074 is about 1/8" larger diameter at the large end, and length about 3.5". 67861 has a deep groove and rolled over burr worn into the large end, so 190074 apparently was meant to strengthen it. NOS bearings are available for both 1310 and 5307 pinion bearings.
Kevin
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I have a pinion assembly from a 1926 or 1927 128" wb car with a spacer that might work. Once I figure out how to get the stuck key out the keyway, the spacer will slide off and I can check the number and get measurements. The Buick Parts Book is confusing because it lists 2 different spacers with overlapping usage for 1926- 1927 series 128, but only #190074 was used on 1929.
Kevin
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If this customer wants to have the car ready with wire wheels for the May 2024 race, the quickest way to acquire a set is to purchase another 1929 with the desired wheels and swap them. There are a few Buick owners here on this forum that have been collecting wire wheels and hub parts for years and still don't have a complete matching set. 1929 has a one year only wheel diameter of 20" so the pool of available parts is even smaller than for other years such as 1926-1928. Around 6 years ago this 1929 chassis was for sale in Arizona with a set of Tuarc disk wheels which are less common than wire wheels here in the US. This would have been a good donor car for your project. I don't know the whereabouts of this chassis now. Wire wheels were more common on Buicks in Australia so you might have better luck searching there.
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#2 is 1927 or 1928 Chevrolet. Dodge Brothers had a smaller sunburst pattern and cowl vent on top.
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I was out for a bike ride and spotted an early electric car on display at the Tesela dealer in Portland, OR. It was a Milburn Light Electric. Then a Detroit Electric pulled in and was giving rides, so I had to get a ride too ! This car belongs to the Western Antique Aeroplane and Automobile Museum (WAAAM) in Hood River, OR.
https://www.waaamuseum.org/collections/automobiles/296-1914-detroit-electric-model-63
1600 Air Museum Rd. Hood River, OR 97031
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My Grandpa Albert with his father and their 490 Chevrolet. They drove this car cross country and back in 1922-23 seeking work for a total of 7025 miles.
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My Grandpa Joe was always trading in his car for something newer when I knew him, so I can only assume he never owned any car for very long even when he was younger. Here he is with a 1926 Chevrolet, a sedan (with Grandma), and a model T speedster.
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Definitely check the bevel gear mesh since you already have it open. After spending this much effort replacing axles, you would not want to have an issue with the gears due to improper adjustment. The procedure calls for using white lead to show gear contact, but you will have to substitute something else since white lead is no longer sold (unless you have a old can of white lead from years ago). I used copper antiseize paste.
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Second car with wire wheels looks about right for 1924-1927 Buick
Third car with toddler is 1928 Buick with strange looking bumper or rack on the front.
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Comparing Master and Standard front wheel bearing races illustrates the difference in spindle diameters.
Master inner/outer diameters: .93/1.43
Standard inner/outer diameters: .812/1.275
You could remove a complete spoke and make a duplicate from hardwood to use for moving the car. If the long term goal is to drive the car, then take it to a wheelwright and get it respoked.
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After having similar intermittent issues, I was suspicious of the new foreign made condensors, so bought a NOS FoMoCo condensor on ebay. It turned out to be slightly longer and I had to drill & tap a new hole in the upper plate for the screw plus elongate the mount hole in the condensor so it would fit - just barely. After rebuilding the distributor, replacing the condensor, and sealing up the intake manifold vacuum leak, the car starts and runs pretty well now.
1926 Buick Model 2548 Interior lights
in General Discussion
Posted
That is actually a 1925 Model 48. An online search turns up a 1924-48 with interior photos, most likely using the same interior lights even though it did not use the oval side windows.
https://www.classicautomall.com/vehicles/514/1924-buick-doctor-coupe