Oregon Desert model 45
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Posts posted by Oregon Desert model 45
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I made 2 baffles to go inside the tank and added air hammer raised beading similar to original.
Another oval end plate made from scrap pieces has a window so I have access to the inside while fitting up the fuel feed tower and gauge tower. This is obviously temporary. The fuel pickup tube should be aimed at the bottom center which should be the lowest point where gas will pool as it gets empty. A 5/16 rod pushed through the banjo bolt screwed into the feed tower indicates where it is aimed. I am wondering if it would help to add a raised bump to provide a low spot where the pickup tube will be.
I used the rear frame crossmember holes to locate the center for tank penetrations.
It is difficult enough to install the tank when I have easy access to the strap bolts that go through the frame, but this must be a big pain when the body is covering those bolts and they have to be accessed from underneath. It takes a stack of wood blocks under the tank to hold it in place while the bolts are pushed through the frame and cradle strap. The cradles have a short hook on the end which catches in a slot through the rear crossmember, and will fall out if a small wood wedge is not shoved in that slot ; these are visible in the 3rd photo below. Has anyone tried using a transmission jack with a wood cradle to lift up a tank ?
Kevin
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Looks closer to 1942 Plymouth to me
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I was working on converting a pair of lights to open car configuration.
The first one must have been a later model, maybe 1927, which had the bucket spot welded to the base instead of riveting like earlier lights. I used the drilled out spotweld holes to fasten to a replacement base but they were in a somewhat random pattern and look a little crude. I might redo this one by welding the holes closed and redrilling in a regular pattern.
The second one is not done yet. None of the original base parts were reusable. The replacement base is made from a drilled bolt welded to a short piece of tube, then wings welded on. The light socket fits snugly into the tube. If rivets are to be used in assembly, the light socket would block an anvil from fitting inside.
Kevin
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Before diving into this, first decide how much time and $ you are willing to spend re-engineering a rear axle.
Do you have your own machine shop with racks of material suitable for making axle shafts and machines capable of modifying a housing, or are you relying on outside machine shops to build parts needed?
Have you considered how this conversion will work with cantilevered rear springs with pivoting spring hanger over the axle housing ?
The stock axle was the result of years of incremental improvements and revisions which continued through the 20's making many components interchangeable for very few years.
It would be far simpler for you to find another axle that meets your needs and add decorative rivets.just my 2 cents.
Kevin
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Looking at a 28 speedo that I have, it appears the .500 dia cable end just plugs into the socket in the speedo. There is a flat clip with hole that fastens it to the stud on the speedo.
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John
I have a pair of NOS New Departure 5310 bearings which I purchased before finding a 1928 rear axle which uses single row bearings. One has some surface rust. These are same size (50mm x 110mm x 44.4mm) as the original 0310 bearing. My recollection is the part number was changed from 0310 to 5310 in later years . This bearing is a common size used in many industries, made by multiple companies, and not hard to find at bearing supply houses and e-bay. Unfortunately some of the foreign made bearings are not up to the quality of 100 year old New Departure bearings. I have $50 in this pair, so will gladly sell for same.
Kevin
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https://bellingham.craigslist.org/pts/d/everson-marmon-cyl-inline-flathead/7714713514.html
From a 1928 Marmon model 68 4dr sedan. A friend found the car years ago,pulled out the engine/Trans and used the rest for yard art! I acquired the engine which he had mounted on a sturdy steel skid to possibly get running for a fun swap meet display never happened. Very complete, good shape,turns freely, no stuck valves. Total weight around 750lbs. I'm losing storage soon and will be forced to part out and scrap remains if no takers. Asking only $200 to cover my handling. Marmon built (not Continental) 211 cu.in. l head in line 8 used in 28-31 model 68,69,70 and Roosevelt. Engine # U2843X indicates 1931.
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If you are not afraid to dive into the woodwork, then go for it. There is a thread here in Prewar by Kyle Sliger (sligermachine) that details his work to build new wood for a 25-44.
This 24-44 that you looked at appears to have more original wood than Kyle's car had so should be easier to reproduce.
The horn hole in the firewall confirms the body to be a 1924, plus the body serial number on the seat riser is also in the correct range. There are a lot of extra holes through the dashboard, not sure why so many.
Parts that will freely interchange from 1928 to 1924 include hood and roller lifters. 1928 front wheels can be installed, however all that will interchange from a 128" wb rear wheel is the rim. Rear wheel could be respoked using 1924 rear hubs and 21" rims from the 28. 1924 rear wheels used a double race bearing, 1928 rear used a single race; 128" wb used a larger diameter bearing.
1924 & 1928 engines will not exchange without some major surgery.
Most of the obviously missing parts can be found except for the top bows. Those might be harder to find.
I have an intake manifold for 1924. Larry Dibarry might have a few of these parts.
If this were near me, I would buy it then try to figure out where to park it.
Kevin
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I have a bent one. If its restrained properly it should be possible to straighten up pretty well. Ends look good and balls have less wear than most.
Kevin
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The tank was finally ready to fit up under the frame to locate holes for filler neck, gauge, and fuel outlet fitting. The long seam is welded but both end caps are just pushed in snugly, and will come back out to fit up interior baffles and allow access for clamping copper heat sinks behind fitting flange welds. The upper cradles originally had a strip of cushioning felt attached with rivets. I used strips of vinyl flooring about .060 thick instead, which might be preventing the tank from seating into the cradle correctly. The gap between the frame rear crossmember and tank seems to be a little excessive.
Fuel filler neck is a repro for 1960-1966 Chevrolet / GMC pickups which was the only filler neck I could find that was long enough. Fuel cap is NOS AC GT-1 from about 1959 which, according to the table on the box, is supposed to fit Buick 1926-1956. Cap fits filler neck perfectly.
Kevin
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The pointed bezel fits 1941-1948 Chevrolet
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Is there a machined casting that fits inside that pulley ? This design goes back to about 1925. An alternate rebuild is to machine a new hub from aluminum with sealed bearings pressed in. This is my new hub at completion of machining.
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First time I have seen parts books for Fisher Body closed cars. Somebody should get these and make digital copies to share with other owners.
These are not mine, contact the seller through craigslist.
https://madison.craigslist.org/pts/d/middleton-rare-1920s-buick-literature/7704287355.html
Rare Vintage 1924 Buick The Factory Behind The Car Book & 3 More 1923, 1924, & 1925 Closed Body parts price list (no reprints) all in excellent condition. Very nice collection. $200.00
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Pretty sure the "before" version of this Cord was on craigslist 6 or 7 years back for around $300. It had been picked nearly clean leaving rear axle and 2 wheels still attached. Everything original forward of the firewall was missing.
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I was not able to open it. The bezel isn't stuck, but it does need a strap wrench of some type to get a good enough grip to turn it past the lock
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I made a crank for the Buick by cutting down a model T crank and welding it to a piece of round bar with a slot cut into it with an angle grinder.
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Back in 2001 I worked at a company that did vacuum metallization on plastic parts, mostly medical devices and some computer related equipment. Parts were loaded on a tool that masked off everywhere the plating was not wanted, then loaded on a 6 sided carriage that rolled inside the vacuum chamber. Plating started with a base layer of aluminum, then depending on customer specifications, another layer of copper, nickel, stainless could be added. Plating material was wire lengths bent into a J shape that were hung over tungsten heating coils. A programmable controller turned on/off the heating coils at the right time during the plating cycle. My boss told me those plating machines had been used during the 1960's and 70's for plating plastic car parts like door handles and dashboard trim. It was an interesting place to work and it was pretty busy early in the year, but by late summer of 2001, customer orders had dried up and I was let go in September.
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This question comes up frequently and is most often not the s-g but is incomplete wiring from dashboard ignition switch or switch contacts need cleaning. 2 wires from the switch to the s-g are required.
Buick starter generators have a 2 stage operating sequence and each stage has a separate field coil that is energized from the dashboard switch. The first stage has a dual function: its the generator when the engine is running, and when starting the engine it "motors" the s-g slowly so the gears will mesh. The second stage will crank the engine and this is activated after the gears have meshed and the starter pedal is pushed in all the way and the brushes have switched. As one "motoring" brush is lifted, the "starting" brush is lowered.
After checking that your motor is not stuck, and after reinstalling the s-g bolts removed, check the 2 smaller electrical terminals for + voltage with a meter when the ignition switch is on.
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Here is the 1930 table from Master Parts Book
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Ben
If there is still something locking up, then check the starter clutch. Its that stacked pair of gears next to the starter in Larry's photo above. Its a one way clutch, so the gears should be locked in one direction and slip in the opposite. If it is locked solid in both directions it will have to come out to get old hardened grease cleaned out. Check it first and we will get into the details if is locked.
Kevin
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Almost finished making the fuel gauge tower. Machining the 2.5-20 male fitting for the top end was pretty straightforward. I left a shallow counterbore for the gauge to seat, which might have to be modified slightly to add a notched ring to position and better support the gauge. This fitting will sit in a 2.5 dom tube which will attach to the gas tank.
Making the bezel ring was a multiple step process due to limitations in my skill level and equipment. I don't like to do blind internal threading due to high risk of crashing the threading tool, and trying to maintain a grip on a thin walled part always fails. I began by welding the rough machined ring to a larger sacrificial disk to space it away from the chuck jaws to bore & cut internal threads to fit the already completed tower fitting. Next I made a threaded spud to hold and support the ring for the remainder of the machining work without damaging the ring or threads. Welds were machined away, sacrificial disk separated, and ring outside thickness turned down to about 1/4" thick. Next a cap was welded on one end, outside diameter cleaned up and knurled, then a 2.0 bore through the cap. An oil filter wrench was needed to loosen the ring from the threaded spud as it was jammed on pretty tight. In all, it was a lot of hours cranking handles on cold winter afternoons.
Kevin
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The drum is pretty well secured to the hub with 12 bolts.
Make sure to scrape all the gunk build up off the inner hub where it protrudes through the drum. I use a utility knife blade to reach those areas.
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This rear hub pictured below is a 1926 and has no lock ring or threads. I don't believe 1924-25 hubs used a lock ring.
I did manage to remove the front wheel brake drums without disturbing the hubs. The brake drums were just loose enough to move a little and I was able to wiggle them off. The rear drums would not budge and I had to use the shop press. I also noticed the front wheel drum bolt hole pattern only matched the spokes in one position, so these holes had been match drilled along with the spokes.
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28 Buick master
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Oregon Desert model 45
edit (see edit history)
These photos show a broken distributer removal from a 1925 starter-generator unit. 1927 distributer should be stuck in the generator not the engine block