tyler searle

Thanks Don. I knew something was amis. Don't suppose anyone has a picture of the carrier? Thanks for the help, greatly appreciated. Tyler

Bought a new Throwout bearing and it appears to be way too big. It's the bearing that both CARs and Bobs show for a '38 special, #1505. Of course we can't find the old one to compare it to. Is there supposed to be a sleeve or something that fits inside it? Also need the rubber part that goes on the side of the bell housing where the clutch fork goes through. Any ideas? I'm asking these questions for the guy rebuilding my engine so I hope I'm explaining things properly . Tyler

Thanks guys. I'll try mc/car.

They're missing.

Anyone know where I can get the special lock nuts for the rod bolts? 1938 248. Dont see them in the catalogue . Thanks Tyler

You got me there, Morgan. I actually don't have a '38 special but I do have a .38 S&W, which has got to be one of the most pathetic cartridges ever made. Tyler

Been reading up on it some. Have a '38 Special so this will fit, correct? I'll contact you tomorrow and see if we can work something out . I'm up past my bedtime and will soon stop making any sense. Tyler

Hi Jim . Very interested, how much? Tyler

Sorry for not getting back sooner, I don't like it when posters disappear and now I'm guilty of it myself . Ended up getting a rebuilt distributor from Bobs, who managed to ship it from Ca. To N.Y. In two days! Old dist. Is worn out, don't know how the car even ran before. I now have spark and the car runs but carbs need to be dialed in and am waiting on a new sediment bowl. Thanks for all the advise and I'm sure I'll be back

I'm in New York, south of Buffalo about 60 miles. Where can I get these dist. Plates? Would I be better off just ordering a rebuilt unit from Cars or Bobs? Kind of in a hurry here and don't know of any cars for parts. Got to go to work now, check back latter.

My 40 Special wasn't running well so rebuilt the carbs. Didn't want to start afterwards so checked and adjusted points. Got it started but wasn't running well. Gave up on it for awhile and installed new brake lines, gas tank and a bunch of small stuff but nothing to do with the ignition. Yesterday, tried to start the car and it wouldn't try to fire. Checked points and gap was way off? O.k., adjusted them to 15 but mechanic said distributor plate was moving and there was no way to keep them in adjustment , says we need a rebuilt dist.? A little plastic piece came loose that evidently keeps the dist. Plate stabilized and he couldn't get it to go back in place. Do I need a new distributor or is there another cure? Anything else I should replace?. This car needs to move to its winter storage soon so I need to act fast. Thanks in advance..............Tyler

I'm glad I came back and checked again, I wouldn't have thought about left hand threads even though my Model ts have them. You guys are great. Thanks again.

Thank you very much for the quick response Mr. Harwood. I'll give it a shot tonight and see how it goes. My neighbor was certain that the nut didn't have to be removed first but I'm glad I asked!

Any tricks to removing these? Does the nut have to come off first? How about that little pin that the wheel goes over? On the rear drums you could remove them with a half inch wrench but the fronts don't have any place to put a wrench on. Just don't want to break anything.

Hi Dave Yes, the car runs fairly well, it's cold-blooded and needs some tuning but the engine sounds good as in no knocks or noisy valves. It does chatter a little when you start out but I'm hoping to get through next summer without replacing the clutch.

That was fast! So how do you turn the engine to get the cyl.'s in the right spot and how do you tell when they're there? It's easy with flatheads! Compression test is a good idea. I'm expecting lots of sediment in the pan, been through that before. I have to remember to check which carbs I have ; thought they were all Carters. I'm hesitant to ask about what oil to use since I've seen what that can turn into on other forums. The factory recommendation of 20wt. seems a little light but I don't know much about these engines. Is that what most of you use? I'll try to post a few pictures tomorrow. Thank you kindly for your advice. Tyler

Hi Fellas I recently purchased a 1941 Buick 40 Special with dual carbs and have a few questions. Model T's I know pretty well but this beast has nothing in common with them. What spark plugs do you guys use? What gap? Point gap? Any condensers out there better than others? I'm going to go through the brakes, drop the gas tank and clean it and coat it and drop the oil pan and clean that also. Is there anything else I should be doing when I have the pan off? Seems like I read somewhere that something should be done to the oil pump? Probably be smart to rebuild the fuel pump? Are there any tricks to dropping the oil pan, I can't see under there very well but it doesn't look like there's a lot of clearance. Probably do hoses, belt and fuel lines. Am I missing anything? Oh, I'll check the steering and kingpins over, too. I'm going to get a manual also, any recommendations? It's a pretty solid car but I don't know any of its history.

Martin Listen to the wise words of Cahartley, buy the best car you can afford and one you can have fun with now or very shortly and restore as you go. As far as where to look for bad wood, door sag can be one indication, there is a wooden sill attached to the top of the frame that can be checked from underneath. Especially check where wooden pillars join the sill. The top is a good indicator also; if the car was left out exposed to the elements with no top, chances are water has run down and collected in the door bottoms, quarter panels and trunk area. Take a jackknife and check for softness/rot wherever you see wood. Good luck. Tyler

Martin Check the condition of the structural wood in the car before getting too excited about it. Unless you're a semi-skilled woodworker with lots of time and patience, run away from it if it's bad. Major undertaking.

Larry Could you post some pictures of the car? Do you know if the engine turns over and is it a 248? Thanks Tyler

This belongs to my neighbor and he's ready to scrap it if there's no interest. It may be a '27 model 92, block number is 9653553 cv. 358346w2 on transmission. Engine turns over. If there's any interest, I could get photos and more info. Located 60 miles south of Buffalo, N.Y. I think it has a starter, water pump and carb. P.M. me here or call me at seven one 6 5 one 7 one one 7 two. Leave voice mail and I will call you back, I have terrible reception at my home. Tyler