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Eric W

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Everything posted by Eric W

  1. Turns out getting ready was just in time. The replacement harness came in yesterday's mail. So last night, I swapped over a couple of the light sockets that this new harness has a note must be re-used. This harness is made per the original wire color coding, so the diagram in the factory shop manual is used to guide the installation. Couple things I had to transfer from that other harness kit - turn signal wiring and the dome light leads. Per the factory manual, turn signals were an option, but the place I ordered from doesn't seem to sell a turn signal kit. I thought about just zip tying the
  2. Still waiting for the replacement harness. Backed out this mystery replacement one today - given the weather forecast, I think we're about done with cool mornings until October. Would have been nice for the harness to be here now so I could get this done before it's blazing hot, but at least got the car a little more ready for the new harness.
  3. Got the rear pair of tires today. Had considered replacing the rims, or maybe pulling these rims off for repainting, but with the Governor's "stay at home" order and all that, I figured the powder coat place might not even be open. And the fronts have some life left, so I wouldn't want to pull all 4. But I wouldn't want to do the powder coat in 2 trips, because I might not get the same color (it's lower cost if it's an "in stock" color, but you never know what's "in stock"). The left rear has had a slow leak for a while, and the prior owner definitely got all the life out of these tires - basi
  4. Got back to removing the old wiring. Wanted to pull the section between the frame and the brake master cylinder. First photo is to remind me what the brake master looks like all fasteners in place. Pull the 2 big bolts that hold the master to the frame, so the cylinder can shift around a little to pull the wires down and back. Second photo - the portion of harness released. Don't really need to go farther back than this until the replacement harness is delivered - I can see the rest of the harness on the frame all the way back with not really anything in the way of pulling it out.
  5. Yes, this mystery harness I was working with didn't seem to be all that great quality - wires looked heavy enough, but when I saw what I was pulling out, I wasn't so sure. When I connected the battery and started some measurements, that pretty well confirmed this harness isn't adequate. Given Studebaker International is a major supplier, I'm counting on them to know what they're doing. I'll add some more photos of today's progress. I got the nasty train wreck of old wires out from the bottom end of the engine compartment. First photo - what came out - bottom harness went to the ove
  6. Got back to it today. Tried adding the battery to see what lights would work. Turns out - none. This harness has so much resistance, it's sucking up all the power within itself. About 3v loss on the big wire between the voltage regulator and the solenoid. This goes through the ammeter, but I checked no detectable loss through the ammeter itself. On the smaller wires out to the front marker lights, voltage is almost nothing. Ordered a new harness from Studebaker Int'l, and started backing this one out. Hopefully their harness has a couple more pounds of copper than this one. Got the dash disass
  7. Some photos - cover plate after overnight in Evap-o-Rust, scotchbrited & painted. The section of harness fed through the cover plate. Cover plate in place. Branch looping under - just the way this harness was made. Plenty of length there. Front light wiring & closer up. Still need to put the horn relay back. Routing at the terminal block wasn't exactly what I wanted, but I was working with the lengths & terminals provided. Gauges going back in. With the gauges out, took the opportunity to go over the panel with Simichrome to shine it up some.
  8. Thanks - I got a headlight switch out of the parts car. Today finished cleaning up & repainting the firewall cover plate. Got the harness pulled back out and strung through the cover plate, then harness back in place and firewall opening closed up. Made the connections under the hood for front lights, solenoid, ignition coil, temperature gauge, and generator. Will need to get under the car to pull the remaining old wiring for the transmission overdrive, the high/low beam switch, brake light switch, and the harness to the rear lights. It's looking like the harness I have was for the automat
  9. And then there was this worldwide pandemic, and the economy crashed, so I think this car is trying to stay with me... Got the starter back from the rebuilder. Decided to swap it in to see if it works better than the one that's on there. Got it mostly into place and decided it might not be right for the car. I didn't take a good picture before I sent it off, so I'm not sure the same one came back. The end that goes into the bellhousing looks a lot bigger than the one that I got from the parts guy. He said the automatic transmissions had a different end to engage the flywheel, so I b
  10. Not much to say about the Miata. Considering wheel/tire options, but working on keeping the Studebaker going so possibly it might be sold. Also working on even bigger project of possibly moving to a place with more room for these projects. Had two that we could live with for sale around here recently - one was on the edge of our price range, but the house had many add-ons over time that resulted in wasted space and a layout with rooms that just weren't usable for us (but 3 1/2 acres of land and two 24' x 36' workshop buildings), and another with an older house that we could live wi
  11. Some interest, but nobody showing up with money. Starter died in February. Pulled that & sent it for rebuild, then realized I wouldn't have it for the once every OTHER year Studebaker-only show in Tucson. So called the local Studebaker parts-pile guy, and he had the starter I needed. Got that on & going with 6 days to the show. Made the show today. Parked across from another 1952 Commander Starlight Coupe that drove down from Phoenix (see first photo). Same guy who sold me the hood emblem. Need to sell at some point because I've got an idea for another project, but no more garage space
  12. Been a while, but I got to cleaning up behind the firewall in the wiper pushrod area. Someone's been using spray-on grease in there for a while. Didn't get a before photo, but it cleaned up well. Also did a couple of the hoses and black plastic parts around the engine. Need to get to the hood prop base (also greased like crazy) and other dirt collection areas under the hood.
  13. Pulled the shipping hooks front & rear. On the rears, the 2 nuts at each location go back on because they hold other items. These hooks are not for towing or recovery - they served to secure the cars to the ships' decks for transport from Japan. Saw a video where the guy was claiming massive weight savings from removing these. I weighed them - 1 lb, 8 1/2 oz for each of the rears, 1 lb, 7 oz for each of the fronts, and 9 oz of bolts for a total of 6 1/2 lbs removed. I'll hold onto these parts in case there's ever a need or desire to put them back, but I don't need to drive with them. I may
  14. Attempted to clean the rims today. The paint isn't in so great shape, and they won't really clean up. With the numerous aftermarket (or stock) options, I don't know that I feel very strongly about making more investment in these tired steel rims. They're 2 different date codes - two with 1990, two with 1994 - so something happened along the way. The rim date codes are split diagonally (right front & left rear). The tire date codes are split front/year, 3 years apart. They'd put "tire blackening" goop on the tires, which was smeared all over the rims & along the fenders. Might just go t
  15. Thank you, John & Harriet Cole. John, for taking care of this Miata for so long, and Harriet for allowing me to be the next caretaker. Maintenance records back to February 16, 1991, sold in Springfield, MO, with 158 miles showing. For the first 60,000 miles or so, it's just periodic maintenance. After that, there started to be more things needing upkeep, including, right towards the end, another timing belt & complete transmission replacement. The neighbor who was helping with the sale said that John had bought this at retirement as his hobby car. So
  16. Drove for a while today - got to the better photo spot, but need to pass by there again when the sun is lower...
  17. Ok, got the front guards on & took it down the street for some better photos.
  18. Thanks - I was able to pick up the last part from the chrome shop yesterday, but I haven't had a chance to put them on. Even though the front guards weren't what I'd call terrible before, it does make a big difference to see perfect new finish on there. That back bumper was an estate sale find for about $30. Of course, the chrome work is a lot more than that. But it was very straight, with just one small area where the bottom edge was dented a little. That's how I saw the part - they may have seen many more areas that needed a little tweaking. But overall, much more straight than the bumper I
  19. Ok, 5 weeks on the chrome. I think they had it done last week sometime, but I was out of town. They've still got one part that they weren't happy with, so I haven't installed any of the 4 bumper guards that I had done for the front. The rear parts came out great, though. Those bumper over-rides were all crunched up, and they push the dents back out & smooth it over. They did have to cut out the mounting brackets & weld them back in. They told me they would do this before they started. They said the last part would complete its rework tomorrow, if I can find time to get it (I have to le
  20. Good point, John. I'll see if I can determine the exact carb & get a rebuild kit from The Carburetor Shop. I got kits from them for both of the '51 Buicks with good results. Remade the power lead for the license plate light this morning. I had cut that wire to pull the trunk - there's no inline bullet connector, at least not that I found. While doing this, I noticed the right tail light was out. Right brake light is good, so maybe a burned bulb. Turned out it just needed to be cycled in the socket some and it came back to life. The Thursday cruise "night" typically starts as soon as I can
  21. 6/20 - I did bring it to the cruise night on 6/13, where it got all the way there, stalled out, and was pushed to a spot towards the far end of the parking lot. After getting something to eat & looking at the other cars, I did get it started again & got it home. After some thought, I checked the oil - quite low after dripping away in that guy's yard for 7 months. Added oil & brought it to the cruise night last night. Still slow to start after it's hot, but there & back no problems. I ordered the clips for the hood scripts & pulled the bumper guards front & rear. I have
  22. 6/15 - got the trunk latch working on Wednesday. Pulled the back seat, then the cardboard between the trunk & seat, and there's plenty of space between the structural supports to get back in there & pop the trunk from the inside. Also installed a machined cover plate at the radio antenna hole (custom-made for Porsche off eBay). Nicer than a stamped sheetmetal piece. Got the visor reinstalled today. Made up a little gasket from inner tube for the roof center bracket. Keeping the car in the garage, and with only 11" of rain / year here, it probably won't get wet, but there wa
  23. Thanks, guys! My wife picked up some vintage suitcases for the trunk. Not sure where I saw the idea, but that's where I'll keep the tool bag, etc. Got to get the trunk latch working though...
  24. I'll check it out. When I search for nib file, most results are for a ".nib" file type that's part of Apple computer operating systems! But I see the paint rework tool in there as well.
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