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Eric W

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Everything posted by Eric W

  1. I had cross-threaded the original brake "V" or "Y" block, so while I was out of town the past few days, I ordered another block & bolt kit (from Midwest Jeep Willys - in Florida). Not the same angle as the one I took off, but easy enough to get the lines to fit. Also worked through the front seat belts this afternoon. Will add photo of them fastened down, but now waiting for the paint to dry on the under-floor backing plates (all seatbelt parts from Juliano's).
  2. Northwest - between Cortaro & Twin Peaks, west side of the highway.
  3. Evap o rust works pretty well. I was impressed with the cylinder plunger in particular. The cleaner-looking washers and the spring clip started out less rusty than the larger washers and the nuts. I'll drive it at least weekly - usually to the Thursday cruise night at Freddy's at Orange Grove & Thornydale, and also a couple of times/year to the Cars & Coffee at La Encantada, but also just around the neighborhood. At the C&C, it's fun to see my low-$$$ vintage car parked between a classic 300SL and a new McLaren...
  4. Thanks Paul - I'll look into the later brakes. Got the new master cylinder in. I'll post a picture later. Photos here - some brake master mounting parts I soaked in Evap-o-rust overnight, and a quick appearance improvement for the trunk emblem.
  5. No hill holder in this one. This looks to be a fairly low-option car - no radio, though there's an antenna on the right front fender, and a radio in the trunk. First day, I got the master cylinder out and the front drums off. Looking online, I saw that the rear drums require a puller. I don't recall exactly how the Buick rear drums were secured, but they didn't need a puller. I ordered the rear seat belts (I had fronts in the right color that I never got to installing in one of the Buicks), master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and the front hoses. I got the wheel cylinders, and though
  6. After several months of no vintage car around, I got this Studebaker last week. I had been scanning the c-list ads here and to about 500 miles out for the past couple of months. Don't know anything in particular about Studebakers - if you've seen my other threads (and listed in the signature), I've worked with Buicks for the past 4 years or so. Anyway, this one was very easy for me to get to for a look over, was in the budget, seems to run well enough, and is in better condition than the last 2 Buicks I was working on. As in, I hope it doesn't take as long before I'm driving it. I do most all
  7. Looks to be a big collection of parts for the money... I can't get there, but maybe someone can save this... https://duluth.craigslist.org/cto/6170556622.html - listed as $950 for all... Kevin - 218-428-9479 For Sale do to storage loss. All my remaining 65 Buick Skylark parts collection. To many items to list them all but here are a few , Bumpers, Radiator support , 2 sets of doors, windows, tail lights, hood , trunk, seats front and rear w/extra, moldings boxed GS frame with 10 bolt posi. Lots of extra's. Must get rid of. Would like to sell it all as a pac
  8. Here's a '48 plastic from the '16 Nationals swap meet area. Hard to capture the shimmer of the metallic red. Did 4 coats of the red, one half at a time to let each side sit flat on the table. The chrome & blue were in good shape, so I didn't do anything with those.
  9. Just a little something to hang on the wall... I believe I found this at Nationals last year in the swap meet area. If you've been through some of my other threads, I was repainting with Testor's paints. For this one I tried metallic blue & metallic red to maybe give more of the original shimmer rather than a solid color. Colors are: Red Metal Flake #1529 and Blue Metal Flake #1539. and Metallic Silver #1146. First 3 photos are the "before", then cleaned & polished the frame w/ Simichrome, then painted/assembled indoor photo & outdoor photo. I'm alway
  10. After much deliberation, I concluded the remaining items to get this one safely back on the road, though not beyond my abilities to arrange, were beyond my capacity at the moment. The car has been advertised for sale on the local c-list for about a month, and after a visit from a Swede, an inquiry from an Australian, and a near-trade with a local, the car is in the very capable hands of Matt Tisdale, of Tisdale Coachworks in Winslow, Indiana. Matt is very well known in the Dodge Power Wagon community, and his company makes many repro parts for these. Sounds like he'll have this car on the road
  11. Same car, same seller, 1 year later. In case anyone would like more details... https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/5986395260.html
  12. Was in the garage to start/run the car for a few minutes to keep the carb from getting gummed up. Noticed what looked almost like some sort of cardboard "shim" around the steering column, right were it passes under the dash. Remembering other posts on here that spoke of the steering column document holder, I pulled it out - it was a stack of old registrations (in the clear plastic steering column document holder)! Though there isn't any paper from the very first owner, I'd guess it was Helen S. Schlecht of Denver, Co., because this was listed as who it was bought from on a 1963 Ari
  13. Ken - if not a full thread, at least show us what you had to go so far for... Good luck on the trip...
  14. Been a while, but I did have another thread about the park linkage repair in the post war forum. If you missed it, I did repair park with a 1/4" grade-8 bolt. Trying to beat a cold front, with 4-5 days of mid 60's-mid 70's temps before it gets cold, Dec 10-17, I got the following done: Decided to forego taking trans to the vintage trans guy in town since I fixed Park. So this is reassembly with the idea of being able to move it under its own power so I can get one of our daily driver cars into the garage. Made a list of about 20 items to do this, and I found another 5 or 10 as I
  15. Plug wire cover for the 320 engine changed part way through '48.
  16. Photo below didn't upload correctly in the original post.
  17. Finally got back to this. Part of it was I was put off by the shop manual, which went down a path of disconnecting linkages you can't even see in order to remove the rear bearing housing. Today, I decided I would try to fix the park linkage, and if it doesn't work, I'm not really any worse off. So looking inside the rear housing, there's just the shift rod itself that goes forwards. It's held on by a small pin that is held to the clevis by a spring built into the pin itself. So that just pops out. Then I pulled the 7 bolts holding the rear housing to the main body of the trans. I tapped the ho
  18. The figure looks similar in my many-generations-copied reprint of the '51 parts book - problem is, item "AS" is "lever and pawl" which is an assembly. What's in the transmission I have appears to be missing the rivet or pin that made it an assembly. I did take out the "AW" "rod", the lower end of which appears to line up perfectly with the hole in the lever behind it - to see if maybe that rod end was originally longer - maybe snapped off. It does not look like the rod end thread is sheared off. Maybe I'll take it off again and put a drill bit or something in there to link the pawl to the leve
  19. I know park doesn't work on this transmission. The vertical piece with the "GM" part number is the park pawl. At the bottom of it are two sheet metal links. Anyone know what this is supposed to look like, or have a photo? There were no "extra" or loose parts in there, but park may have been broken before I got the car (I got it in non-running state).
  20. Nope. No extra pieces floating around. I thought I might have broken Park myself, but finding no extra pieces, it may have been broken when I got it. There is definite evidence that the transmission has been out of the car before - missing bolts, missing lock washers, and the "access holes" cut into the floor (an "improvement" from 1950 to 1951 - factory deleted transmission access panels). I did find out that the 2 "missing" bolts at the top of the bellhousing are intentionally left out of '51's because the access is so bad that the factory decided they just didn't need those. Supposedly the
  21. I spoke with the vintage transmission guy here in town. His shop is closed for the summer, but he recommended to drop the pan and look inside. It might just be "gunked up" and cleaning it out would allow for fluid circulation. Unfortunately, I don't think this will be a good answer because the pan was fairly clean, and the intake screen was mostly clear. I cleaned the pan & screen, but I think it will still need a trip to the shop (when it's open again for fall). I pulled off the ball and U-joint to see what Park mechanism looks like (since it's not working). Pic attached, but I'll al
  22. Finally got the trans out! There were 4 more bolts on the support beam, and 5 on the bellhousing that I hadn't gotten to. The cross beam at the back of the engine doesn't seem to have a whole lot of weight on it - I was able to adjust the back of the engine downwards to get a little more access to the bolts at the top of the bellhousing. Fortunately someone had already cut a hole in the floor to access those bolts previously. With the jack all the way down, the top of the bellhousing was still 4" or so higher than the frame. So I tilted the jack forwards until the transmission sat down on its
  23. With some slightly cooler days, I have made a little progress on this transmission job. I got the trans jack from HF with the seldom-seen 25% off coupon. I made up the engine rear support from 1.25" x .25" steel bar stock. I'll get some photos later.
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