[Pressurized oil system questions?]

motoringicons, I allowed some few oil drip out and it did not have only about an ounce from the upper petcock, and it looked relatively clean. I think it is appropriate to the oil level.

 

The Ruckstell was slightly overfilled and the viscosity was about like thin honey. Also clean. The car was well maintained. Somebody really loved it.

It even has a tandem trailer (of course not needed with a Model T), and it is also very well done. Custom for the car. It has matching hubcaps, from a 1950s car. I can see the driver/owner taking it to meets/races. I wonder how it competed. I cannot find any images on Google. It would seem it was a "significant car" in it's day. 

[Pressurized oil system questions?]

Just recently acquired 1927 Speedster. It has a pressurized oil system and filter.

When I get a "new" car, I like to go fluids. When I check the oil level with the upper petcock (on the hogshead) a quantity of oil comes out. Usually this is an overabundance of oil, and I open the petcock and let it run until level, but the oil filter and system is higher than the petcock.

Does the oil pressure system use the same level of oil, ie, open the higher petcock?
 

[How to use a Ruckstell axle?]

I am carefully going over the car. The rear end lube looks very thick, like honey and overfilled by removing the square head plug on the higher side of the rear housing. I wonder if the previous, previous owner did not know the Ruckstell should have had the 140 wt you suggested. Probably drain the rear and replace it with 140.

Will followup up when I get it sorted out, first. And will relate our adventure(s)! Thanks, Bill

[How to use a Ruckstell axle?]

Motoringicons. Thanks for the tips. Looks like I usually leave the Ruckstell in forward (High) and drive like usual. All the way back for parades and very slow. Does the Ruckstell have any effect with high gear? Or just the same as Ford high gear?

you mentioned that the "600W will leave some of the Ruckstell parts dry. SAE140 is the best and fill it like you would a standard T rear end". I seem to have a good amount of lubricant in the rear end.  I normally use the 600w from Restoration Supply. I would "assume" that "modern oils" would be a no-no(?) Some of these attack bronze. 

Where and what lube should I get?

[How to use a Ruckstell axle?]

I have just acquired a 1927 Model T Speedster. It has a Ruckstell axle. I am familiar with Model Ts and can drive them. When do I use the Ruckstell? How does it integrate into the standard Model T "shifting arrangement?

[Can anyone identify 1927 Model T Speedster, wonderful options!]

Just bought this 1927 Model T Speedster. Has a wonderful list of options. Trying to find any history. Apparently it was redone in 1990s in California. Would like to know its history. Not for sale
 

Here is the list,
Canadian engine,
Ruckstell two speed axle,
Double Solex Carburetors and custom header,
Custom headers and free-flow exhaust
leather bucket seats,
drop front axle
Z’ed frame.
Original Edmunds & Jones headlights.
Rootlieb fenders and running boards.
Atwater Kent distributor.
Monocle windscreen.
Nice detailed pin striped.
Oil Pressure system with filter.
Foot feed and column for gas.
12v system.
Oil pressure gauge.
Speedometer.
Includes a custom built open trailer. Tows great, new tires on trailer.

[What Is It? 1914 Marmon Model 48]

On 2/8/2020 at 9:57 PM, nickelroadster said:

The Marmon 48s were made after the Wasp won the indy 500 in 1911.  They added two cylinders to the model 32 engine and did not make very many of them.  A really nice dream car.

 

 

Thank you. It is a very smooth and easy driving, powerful car. The previous owner is 6'9" so I can stretch out with my 6'2" frame. Wife has to turn on the ignition. Starts easily. Has an exhaust diverter that goes into a train whistle.

 

According to the Marmon Owners club that this car is the only 48B speedster in 1913, Serial number is the same.

[What Is It? 1914 Marmon Model 48]

our 1913 Marmon Speedster 48B

[1913 Marmon Speedster 48B]

On 10/12/2019 at 9:43 PM, C Carl said:

Hi Bill ! 

Another GREAT toy !  Do you have a picture of the other side of the engine, please ?    -   Carl 

 

[Going to Atlanta Concours d'Elegance?]

We are bringing some of our cars. Hope to see you there,

https://atlantaconcours.org/

[1913 Marmon Speedster 48B]

21 hours ago, r1lark said:

Sweet car!!

 

What is a comfortable cruising speed?

 

Don't know yet. It is in transit. Should be here in a few days. Trying to reach a few people who worked on it. Have talked with a few people who have dtiven it at the Bonham Auction and said it was very fast.

[Wanted to Buy: 18"Monocle windshield - Brass]

Thank you. I asked them for a quote. 

[1913 Marmon Speedster 48B]

Just purchased October 7 (not yet delivered) but am interested in history about Marmmon Speedsters.

[Wanted to Buy: 18"Monocle windshield - Brass]

I want to buy a 18" to 20" monocle for our brass car to mount on our recent 1913 Marmon Speedster. 

[Question about adding a disc brake on a driveshaft - Brass Era car?]

On 4/27/2019 at 6:56 AM, mercer09 said:

 

Bill, you can double your braking power by putting disc brakes on the front wheels, replacing NO brakes on the front, but at the cost of judging points if that's important to you. 

 

 

Fella at Hershey years ago had an 05 Maxwell, with front discs from a motorcycle. Stopped the car wonderfully!

 

looked like hell.

 

Not that I care that much about judging points, but I have heard that you may not lose points for adding safety features. And if touring, might be a good idea. But I don't like the looks of disc brakes and for the most part (unless racing or mountains) don't see the need. If I were to add front brakes, they would be drums and would look like the rear.

[Question about adding a disc brake on a driveshaft - Brass Era car?]

On 4/26/2019 at 6:31 PM, edinmass said:

If he has a Duesenberg with disk brakes.........IT IS NOT A DUESENBERG..........they had hydraulic drums when new, and stop fine from 100 MPH..........no question about it. 

 

I completely agree.  He offered to sell me the car, not a bargain anyway, but I didn't like it. I think he had the old drums. If he like his discs, I am not to dis his car or him. 

Disc brakes don't look good on any car that was not made for them. They also dirty up your whitewalls with brake dust. We have disc brakes that came on several of our modern cars.  IF I wanted to add front brakes, I would add drums that look like the rear. 

But the older cars need to be driven respectfully and at the conditions at the time they were made. Our old cars have lived a very long time with the factory brakes.

 

We are very fortunate that we live next to Stone Mountain Park. 25mph in the Park and has 15 miles of hard surface roads. We feel fine with our two wheel brakes. 

[Question about adding a disc brake on a driveshaft - Brass Era car?]

I especially agree to get the original brakes working properly. Perhaps with softer "grab-ability" with modern linings like Moose sells. I also know that others are adding "juice" hydraullic brakes inside the rear drums. The bottom line is that only stopping ability is the amount of rubber you put on the ground.

 

On a Model T, the bands in the transmission can clamp and stop the car. I am in the thought that the brakes are a matter of prayer and hope! Obviously the handbrake operates the rear drums. 

 

These Brass cars were made when the speed limits could have been as low as 10-20pmh. To me that pushing a brass car at 60-70-80mph is dangerous.  I consider it disrespectful to the car. Enjoy waht it was made to do. My 1908 Thomas Flyer has a 100mph speedometer. I think this is for "bragging rights." Obviously the wooden artillery wheels were not made for that speed!

 

In my 50s cars, I have friends installing front disc brakes. Not me. I find that the original brakes are sufficient unless pushing the car beyond its original limits. I remember disc brakes became all the rage in the 1960s when they were popular on race cars.

 

My original question was that since only one wheel drives the car, through the differential, how would a disk brake on the driveshaft would only stop that wheel?  It seems logical that a differential must allow one wheel to freewheel when cornering. I seem to remember that the concept of a "limited slip" differential came about in the 1960s for the muscle cars. Though it were possible in Brass Era cars, I can find no research it was done. Even if that were true, I would assume that gearing down would still only slowing the driven wheel.
 

To me it seems illogical to add a disc brake to a driveshaft and an unnecessary expense. Better to put better brakes all around would be the best idea, especially for touring. 

A local guy seems to have the most driven Duesenberg in the USA at10,000 miles a year. He has disc brakes on his front wheels.

[Question about adding a disc brake on a driveshaft - Brass Era car?]

A friend is planning to increasing his braking ability by adding a disc brake on a driveshaft on a brass era car. He thinks it will stop both rear wheels. 

 

It would seem to me that it could only stop one rear wheel.

 

Question?

[Anybody coming to the Atlanta Concourse at Tyler Perry Studio?]

Have heard a substantial rumor that the original Thomas Flyer from the Great Race of 1908 will be there as well as Jeff Mahl (grandson of the TF driver George Schuster)

 

We have entered the following cars.
 
1903 Columbus Electric Folding Top Runabout, 1908 Thomas Flyer, 1911 Napier Garden car, 1934 Brewster

[Anybody coming to the Atlanta Concourse at Tyler Perry Studio?]

I am planning to be there. What are you bringing?
https://atlantaconcours.org/tyler-perry-studios-2/

 

[Recommended fuel pressure regulator for gravity feed system??]

I think I will refit the gravity feed system. Not sure why the previous owner had fitted an electric pump. The original carburetor and gas tank are in the same places. Should work as original.

[Recommended fuel pressure regulator for gravity feed system??]

Recently acquired prewar car that has a gravity feed gas tank. It has an electric (12v) fuel pump with a cheap old fuel regulator that was leaking badly. I pulled the old regulator  and replaced it with a piece of tubing. Now the carb (upflow) is overpowering the needle valve and leaking. 

I want to get a new regulator, but don't know the proper pressure for my system. I have looked at a few, but are made for much higher pressure. Probably for fuel injection. I need something that will work with my carburetor.  I could go back to original and just remove the electric fuel pump, but may be better to stay with it and get the pressure properly.

 

Any recommendations? What pressure should I need? 

[Self-Generating acetylene Lucas Headlights]

Recently acquired a 1911 Napier that has Lucas Landolite self-generating acetylene headlights. It seems that carbide and acetylene are basically the same.  Mix water and carbide = acetylene

 

My headlights have a brass container built into each headlight. A valve and easy open headlight doors. Apparently I add a of water and then a push rod goes down the center inside a tube. Maybe this holds carbide?

Not sure how to proceed with this?

[Large Garage concrete sealing.]

33 minutes ago, auburnseeker said:

Ah a concrete floor.  I wish I was that far along.

I was told by a friend that works for the state to look into whatever they use to coat the concrete bridges with.  Whatever sealer that is it has to be good stuff if it can handle heavy traffic,  plowing salt/ sand.  That's what I'm going to look into when I get that far along if ever.  He has done several floors with heat in them.  A friend just did his with a paint type product and had to strip it all and redo it.   

If you have electricity on the site,  you can set up a couple of even box fans and that floor will dry up faster than you think. 

good luck and let us know what you decide on and how it performs over time. 

 

Thanks for your input. I am very pleased with the buildings. I wanted them to fit the landscape. My first building is a garage with four rollup doors with two four post lifts inside. 30x60 (1800 sf). This is where our cars will be maintained and repaired. I wanted two lifts because sometimes you have to wait and get parts when one car is up. 

 

The picture shows before the end trim was installed. Each bay is 15 feet wide and 30 feet long. Room for toolboxes and work benches. 

The second building is 100x80 (8,000sf) which will be to display and house some of our classics. 14 foot eaves and 18 feet at the peak of the roof. It has exceeded my expectations! I hope you can come visit sometime. 

 

I am still in the cleanup and slogging through mud around the big building.

I have minimal electricity, and plan to clear the puddles after a light pressure washing tomorrow. A friend has some giant squirrel cage blowers and a 120k diesel torpedo heater. It is good to have friends. Apparently there is nothing I can do about the puddles. About anything would crack in a relatively short period of time. 

[Large Garage concrete sealing.]

I have just finished two buildings with a floor space of about 10,000 sqft. 5,000psi concrete and power troweled finish. I am looking for a good floor coat that can seal, clear, and keep the concrete wet look, maybe with a stain, slightly mottled look would be good. The slabs have been cured for two months, but I just got the roofs up and there is quite a bit of puddles, maybe 1/2" deep. The concrete guy was in a hurry and did not get leveled as should have been done.

I suspect there is deep moisture in the slabs and with all the humidity/rain it is not really drying out. All this, I think a water based sealer would be best allowing the moisture to come through. 

 

Does anyone have a product that could work?