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CatBird

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Posts posted by CatBird

  1. As we are considering club sedans and close coupled sedans (5 passengers), can we consider Town Cars? Our 1934 Brewster Ford. Once owned by coloratura Lily Pons, principal soprano for Metropolitan Opera for about 30 years.  A dramatic Brewster body over a stretched (15") Ford chassis.

     

    I fell in love with this car as I was first being attracted to classic cars in 2012 (I am a very recent collector/addict!) at an open house by Truett Cathy, Founder of Chick Fil A. I followed the car until I was able to purchase this car in 2017. I found in the trunk two ribbons showing "Pebble Beach Tour" and "Pebble Beach 2nd Place 1998"

     

    The closed compartment seats five plus the chauffers compartment. The car has a shorter wheelbase 127" giving more agility in New York City traffic.

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  2. I did get a set of these and they work great! 

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3O63L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    They operate (only on the rear) as huge LED Lights that magnetically attach with very powerful neodymium magnets and have adjustable straps also.

     

    These are wireless and in testing, they kept working when I was 225 feet away with a 30-yard steel dumpster, a 36-foot gooseneck aluminum trailer between me and the lights. I was holding the remote at that distance. Even if your car is chitty-chitty-bang-bang or you want them on the end of a long trailer, they will work!

     

    You can turn on the lights with the remote. Running lights are on and lasted 24 hours continuously - though the literature says "six hours". When they finally die, you are reminded of the remote that they have failed.

     

    From the remote, you can activate turn indicators - self-canceling in 60 seconds, or you can cancel them yourself. Press another and your brake lights come on. Another button and both lights blink in hazard mode. Lastly, another button and very bright reverse lights come on. The reverse lights make a great flashlight as well.

     

    All recharges through a 120v outlet or cigarette outlet in your tow vehicle. All this comes in a sturdy box. Yeah, butt ugly, but they work great! Of course, they use their own batteries, so you don't worry about whether you have 6v pos or neg or 12v car batteries.

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  3. 23 hours ago, avantey said:

    I have not checked back on this thread since before Christmas but I see someone has already found Jim's Egypt Garage eLights I was referring to.  I did say they were turn only in the rear and I know he has looked into a four corner unit but not sure where it went.

     

     

    I just checked the Egypt Garage site and they only have the two rear lights and these are out of stock. They also do not appear to have any kind of brake lights or reverse lights, asTrimacar has already said.

     

    http://store.theegyptgarage.com/elights-wireless-directional-intention-system.aspx

     

  4. 2 hours ago, C Carl said:

     

    If you heat the floor , the slab MUST be insulated.   - CC

     

     

    Ah, yes. I have taken a moment to ask St Google. And the answer is loud and clear. Using insulation and pex tubing. Will look further into this. Looks like a great idea to heat.

  5. 28 minutes ago, old car fan said:

    The concrete depends on bearing points from above,We have a 60 foot clear span, still to  to small, outside bearing only

     

    I'll let the engineers figure it out. I can get a total of 6 inches for an additional $5,000. Submitted preliminary plans to the City for first perusal. Then building and foundation plans. Georgia engineering seals.

  6. Thank you all, especially Ed Minnie, for all your ideas.

     

    My 36' gooseneck Featherlite will carry any car we have with the top down.  I like convertibles, touring cars. These will all fit., even our 1934 Brewster Town car will fit in the Featherlite. 

    The gooseneck Featherlite pulls beautifully and has good storage room when we travel. The torsion axles are smooth as eggs!


    I would like the Forest River trailer with the fender wells at 4 1/2" that would be perfect and are still following up with Forest River. Pace may make the raised floor. I like this idea. Still looking, but the Featherlite is really good! I use my winch to load and unload and don't need an escape door.

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  7. 4 hours ago, JACK M said:

    Mine is a Cargo-Mate 'Eliminator.

    26 ft and has aluminum frame and a floor like Marty shows.

    It has AC and heat in the same roof unit. It also has cabinets with a generator and a compressor.

    The work bench sports a vice.

    inside and outside lights.

    It makes it pretty to work out of.

    The race car is wide so I built ramps to the height of the wheel wells. (they come right out if I need the height).

    Bonus is I can load the quad thru the side door with the car in there. You can see one of the ramps in front of the racecar.

     

     

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    Looks good to me, Jack I especially like the ramp in the Vee Nose. 

    Have a question about the ramps? Does this raise your center of gravity and cause problems? Looks like you have a much lighter car that my brass and 1950s cars. I had thought at one time to get a deckover trailer and have a flat floor with an enclosed box on top. But someone, I am losing track of who said not to, but he seemed very positive that I should NOT do this as it would raise the center of gravity and could have problems.

  8. It appears that Georgia is the trailer capital of the World. I did tour two trailer facilities in Fitzgerald and one in Pearson Georgia. I saw the same trailers being made, rolled outside and names placed on them. Basically the exact same trailers (better insides) with widely varying names on them. Here is an article in 2015 that seems to sum it up. Your comments?  The yellow highlighting is due to my search criteria|
     

    Look is a relatively new company, just founded in 2010.  Then they purchased Pace American sometime around 2012...Pace is a long time trailer manufacturer.  So based on that, Look = Pace American, if you want to search some for reviews on Pace trailers.  Neo is a similarly 5-ish year old company, and their story of how their pre-2010 trailer company was run into the ground and "rescued/resurrected" by original owners under the new name Neo is right on their website.  They appear to be independently owned.  R&R also appears to be independently owned, and is probably the only company of the bunch that actually survived the economic downturn with few major shake-ups, and of course they have their relatively unique no-dealer factory-direct sales approach.

     

    As for Ameralite...realize this is the same company as Forest River = US Cargo = Rance = Lightning....all now blended into one giant company that is owned by Berkshire Hathaway.

     

    Basically, there were huge shakeups in all these companies during the economic recession of 2008-2010...resulted in massive unemployment in the area they are all located....THE worst-hit area of the country due to lack of diversification of industries...mostly trailerand RV manufacturing and nothing else.  And after the shake-out, many of the trailer mfg companies that managed to survive were rescued by some deep pockets who wanted to invest in this industry at the bottom and make a big profit out of their return to success, and as a result of the financial rescues and the recovering economy many of these names are changing and somewhat blending, and the stronger companies that survived have now come out of the ashes, establishing a name for themselves, and are doing pretty well again.

     

    Recognize that every brand you just mentioned...R&R, Neo, Lightening, Ameralite, and Bravo, are made in factories that are within about a 45 minute drive of each other.  You didn't mention Stealth (another independent), and Haulmark/Featherlite/Wells Cargo (all now owned by "Universal Trailer company")...but they're right in the mix there also, and they all have factories are in that same general location.  I'm also sure there are more that I'm forgetting.

     

    So to be real honest, they're all probably 98% identical in terms of construction quality and design...let's face it, they're just welded aluminum boxes, they're all made in the RV mfg district of northern Indiana/southern Michigan, likely all buy their materials from the exact same local material suppliers, and are assembled by many of the same workers who live in the area and occasionally jump between all these companies, following wages/benefits, or their friends/favorite production line managers and/or unions, just doing what they know how to do to make a living...welding and assembling trailers.  I'm convinced that all of these trailers you are shopping are FAR more similar than many realize, or are willing to admit.  

     

    So I'd recommend you ignore the brand names.  It doesn't matter.  Just buy based on price, little details & options & features you want, and your own convenience of purchasing...dealer location or whatever.  They'll all get your sleds where they need to go very effectively.

     

    ===============================================================================

    Personally, I am waiting back to hear from Pace American Journey. I have been working with a local Pace salesman and does not even know basics and has to call the "Pace Guy" to see if the I Beams are 6" or 8" if I ask for 7 k axles.

  9. 26 minutes ago, Marty Roth said:

     

    CatBird, I could not find a model name - mine was a custom build with a round top, wedged and tapered nose, aluminum chassis and floor, extra height, raised floor.

    Sorry I cannot be more helpful

     

     

    Thanks, Marty, I will send the specs to FR and see what they can do. Your trailer looks perfect for me! Also thanks for the other tips. The TPM sounds like an excellent idea. I had a friend and lost a trailer tire and lost the rig, but his tow vehicle was underpowered as well. Bad combo.

    Pace is trying to make me an American. The Shadow GT does not make a v-nose.

     

  10. 17 hours ago, Marty Roth said:

     

    CatBird:

     

    Ours was custom-built by Forest River in Elkhart, Indiana. They specialize in RVs and Motorhomes, but have separate division which makes Car Haulers and cargo trailers. I would imagine that any of their dealers could get with them to specify what you want.

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    Marty, Forest River looks very good. They have nine types of car haulers.
    http://www.forestriverinc.com/cargo-trailers.aspx

     

    Could you give me the model name for yours? Would be very helpful.

     

  11. On 12/30/2017 at 3:12 PM, Joe in Canada said:

    Nice car but would be nicer without the spot lights and continental back end. I do not see what people see in the rear spare but there is a pile of people out there with bad taste.

     

    Oh my goodness, bless your heart! I will have it changed out immediately!! 
     

  12. 5 hours ago, Marty Roth said:

    Our all-aluminum (including chassis and floor) trailer is a 24 ft with a tapered and wedged nose adding 4-1/2 ft of additional storage, less wind resistance, and mounting surface for BOTH spare tires. The additional foot of height allows brass-era cars to load in without having to lower the top. The raised floor above the pair of 6,000 lb axles results in a 4-1/2 inch wheelbox so 1950s era cars can still open the door over the awning-style driver-side escape door, and we have ten pairs of tie-down locations, well-braced so almost any car can be set to properly balance the trailer with 60% of the weight forward of the axle centers. I always use an equalizer hitch. I also specified multiple roof and side-wall vents, as well as multiple roof, floor, and sidewall lighting for ease of tie-down in the dark without holding a flashlight with my teeth. The electric winch and electric tongue jack set far enough back to allow  a tailgate or hatch to open are also a significant benefit.

     

    Go with the best you can afford - you wont be sorry.

     

    Marty, sounds perfect! Where can I get one like this? The money is not the problem.

  13. On 12/28/2017 at 7:18 PM, edinmass said:

    You get what you pay for.  Notice their trailer the same size as mine is rated 8000 pounds less. Thin side walls...... .024 any decent trailer is .040 and the good ones are .060 the welding is poor on them, and the trailr weighs less because they use thin wall tubing. Wells Cargo Auto Wagons are very, very good......and my frame broke hauling a V-12 Packard. Cheap trailers are fine for small modern cars from the 60’s and 70’s. If you don’t spend 18 to 30grand, your buying ..............junk. 

     

    You get get what you pay for...........where did I hear that!

     

    Ed, I can pay this, trying to get through to Pace and Wells Cargo. Perhaps they are out for the holidays. Will try them next week.

  14. 4 hours ago, r1lark said:

    What Stude Light said just above.

     

    Right after Spinneyhill and kclark had their orders cancelled and money refunded, I emailed Top Serve to see if they are still making these. I never got a reply back. Also, they no longer have any up on eBay.

     

    I hope you do get yours, because I want to order one too!  :)

     

     

    Will let you know what happens. 

    • Well..... Here is The Bonneville. An artist constructed this, from him to Truett Cathey (Chick Fil A) and to me. I dug out the artist and had a great chat with him. It looks like the most damn Jules Verne rocketship/boat.
    •  
    • Anybody know the vintage of the steering wheel? For your enjoyment, curiosity and wild speculation.

    The Bonneville

     

     

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  15. 9 minutes ago, alsancle said:

    Bill,  my only piece of advice is to not get it too big if you can help yourself.  Ed will talk you into a 40 foot trailer.   The more trailer, the more weight, the more strain on the tow unit.  I have two friends who blew up their 3500 tow rated rigs just putting down the highway, but pulling really big ass trailers.

     

    Al, I agree, I want to keep it to 24 or 26' length. Easier to maneuver and I am nervous the bigger the "sail factor" pulling an eight-foot box above a 2 foot more undercarriage. What is that when a strong wind blows or a semi blows past?

  16. 22 hours ago, FLYER15015 said:

    Terry,

    See the red tabs on the door flap ?

    Line the car up straight on the trailer with the center of the tire centered on these tabs.

    Take your hands off the wheel and drive right in. Or winch her in if you prefer.

    The rails are a 2x4 ripped in half with the rounded edges up.

    The trailer is "vehicle specific".

     

    Mike in Colorado

     

    I use a similar idea for my enclosed trailer. I use a 40" wide (haven't measured recently) warehouse 20-foot rack standard. I add 2x4s or 1x4s (rounded) to adjust for vehicle tracks. Once a vehicle is "on track" just winch it in. no driver needed. I also have the rack positioned with long bolts that are fixed to the track and go through holes in the trailer about 2 inches. Stays in place. But can easily be picked up and moved out of the trailer if needed for trailer's original use. I can haul a 1/2" clearance if wanted an Indy Car. Well, if I got one, might hang it on the wall. Don't see one to drive, but keeping my options open.

    Another winching the car into the trailer is that some of my cars are not only widebody but thick doors! You can't get out of the car unless through a car window. Try THAT in an enclosed trailer!!! I also don't need an escape door. This really helps. The Featherlite has double extension ramps. It is a sweet rig! BUT with only has 6'3" clearance and this is not enough for tall cars.

    My wife can load and unload the cars. It is that easy.

     

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    • Like 1
  17.  

    Going back to WC and Pace as Edinmass and others have suggested. I now have bottom line specs (?) I got frustrated by lack of response from Pace and WC, but they were celebrating Christmas <grin> POT were ready to go! Build me one in 3-4 weeks. They are a few miles south of me in Georgia seems to be the capital of the world in trailer mfg. Glad you are all slowing me down and getting focused on better trailer ideas. POT told me the had the same materials and construction as Pace, Haulmark, etc.

     

    So here is my list, so far.


    1. 8k Axles - Tandem - though triple axles suggested.  Still may go for triple axles, but I have 24foot Hydraulic tilt open with triple 7k torsion axles and it is very hard to back up and the tires scrub in turns. I am not good at backing up. Mostly life experience <grin>

     

    2. LED  Exterior and interior lighting   

     

    3. Recessed passenger doorstep

     

    4. Extra height 24" (eight-foot clearance)

    5. ATP Transition flap (between ramp and body)

    6. Bogey Wheels

     

    7. Bulldog Hitch

     

    8. Extra heavy duty ramp

    9. Recessed compartment for spare tire

     

    10. Vee nose. bumper pull 26 or 28-foot trailer.

    11. Maybe a  5 foot ramp in the Vee nose where I can squeeze in a golf cart or at least a motorcycle.

     

    12. Minimum .030 walls

     

    13. Not a perimeter frame, but do use 8" I Beams

     

    Sounds like many of the suggestions, in getting a Pace American, maybe a Shadow or WC

     

    I use a 2016 GMC Denali Duramax 400hp diesel with trailer package. Do I also need a weight distribution hitch?

    My current trailers are a 1997 Featherlite Gooseneck trailer and for stock car racer, Ricky Rudd. It was his display and personal car hauler. Was about $85,000 when new. Featherlite is probably the best, but too pricey. I like a camper shell and I have to remove it to use the gooseneck. 36 foot is a bit long and height is too low about six foot. Since most of my cars are open, they will all fit. But the wheel wells are about 79" and gets too tight with a low, wide car, like our 1947 Lincoln Continental -- less than one-half inch clearing the body.

    Also a 2016 Hawke Hydraulic Tilt. Very well for open carry, but I want to keep our cars enclosed. It is also cumbersome backing up. Much different than a tandem trailer. GVRW at 21,000 pounds.

     

    I want an all around enclosed trailer! Good, don't seem to spring for a Featherlite.

    Anything else? 

    Got some great advice from Ed, but I have a hearing loss and may have missed some things. If any can add to my list, greatly appreciated!!

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  18. 9 hours ago, edinmass said:

    It’s not often, but Catbird’s boat leaves me speechless..........and I like it!

     

    It really is a bar!

     

    Thank you Ed. Happy to show it to you when you come to Atlanta. I got it from the Truett Cathy Collection. He bought it at the Red Baron Auction about five years ago. He had no history about it. He was mesmerized when he saw it at the Auction. I did some research and found some more about it.  I found him and had a delightful conversation. He offered us to come visit his home. He sold most of his creations at the Auction and the Auction people would not tell him who bought his pieces and was very happy to know his Bonneville went to someone who really did appreciate it. Took him six months to build it in his backyard. He added the 1941 Cadillac hood ornament at the last minute before he sold it. Will send you his contact information in a PM

    https://hometone.org/1857/2012/07/25/bonneville-custom-island-bar-on-wheels-lets-you-sleep-inside/

     

  19. On 5/8/2017 at 10:01 PM, Stude Light said:

    I attended the SDC and ASC National Meet in South Bend this past weekend (which was a lot of fun).  During the ASC Driving Tour, I had a number of folks inquire about the LED brake light bar I had on my Light Six and I said I would post info about where I got it so here you go.....

     

    I purchased this from:  http://www.brakeflasher.com/brake.htm

     

    It is connected to the mechanical brake switch (pulled on by a wire connected to the brake rod) that I previously installed in the car and turns on the STOP lamp.  That little lamp on the left side is really hard to see, so to avoid getting rear ended, which just happened to me today while driving a 2017 GMC Denali HD Pickup (distracted driver), I added this high mount LED.  It works with 6 or 12 volts and positive or negative ground.  What is really nice is that it can be adjusted to flash, then go steady.  It suction cups to the rear window and has a quick connect plug so is easily removed for shows.  Very bright and the flashing feature really grabs your attention. It is a bit pricey at $68 but the added safety factor is well worth it.  Very simple hook up - one wire to the brake switch and the other to ground.

     

    Scott

     

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    Just ordered one from your link,

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