CatBird
-
Posts
469 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by CatBird
-
-
Where is the Engine number/block on 1978 DeVille 7 liter?
I think it is somewhere in the back on passenger side(?) But can't find it.
On my Restomod 1941 Cadillac. I don't have a data plate for 1978.
-
9 hours ago, keiser31 said:
What happened to the original doors?
Don't know. I kind of like them. But not interested in creating new ones!
-
Early owner of our 1913 Marmon Speedster, Edith Mortimer, socialite. The story was that she kept telling her parents that she was going to Europe to snag a royalty. Marry him and become a countessa.She saw our 1913 Marmon and told daddy that this car would keep her in America. He bought it for her. She was involved in an accident, killing two men. Head on collision with their Model T Ford.After a lengthy and publicized trial but she was acquitted, (Daddy's money?), but public opinion continued against her.Daddy sold the car and suggested she go to europe for a while. She did and married an Italian Count
-
4
-
-
What a great adventure! I think there is a book in this. Wow is all I can say.
-
2
-
-
1 hour ago, 1937hd45 said:
The ignore feature makes for far better Forum reading, I find myself adding to the list as more people qualify. Bob
AMEN, brother! Life can be like that as well!
-
1
-
-
55 minutes ago, yachtflame said:
I don’t see the problem here. If you are worried about where the link would take you or about it’s content….just don’t click on it! There’s no requirement here to read everything, you can just pass it by.
Life is a buffet. Pick the items you want and ignore the rest. Move on.
-
2
-
-
1 hour ago, wayne sheldon said:
Yes! Sharing knowledge and encouraging others here is what this forum should mostly be about! Antique auto related of course.
I do hope that I have not offended you ever. I am an opinionated &&& and do tend to speak my mind. Besides, I also have an automotive history research problem I need to get back to and may need to ask a favor? Looking for some obscure automotive history related to Georgia.
Be well!
Not offended. I am easily NOT offended. But I try to be appropriate. If I can help, please let me know.
-
On 3/17/2023 at 5:16 PM, wayne sheldon said:
While I do tend to agree with Gunsmoke about links without explanation? I usually ignore them unless a couple people I know make positive comments first.
Way too much just outright garbage on the internet! Too much badly written (for lack of a better word "crap") produced by clueless fools that know nothing about which they write. Too many badly formed opinions by people that do not understand even obvious realities in front of them! ( I rarely go to msn because they are terrible that way!)
Though most of the comments are positive. I guess I should make better preamble to posting links. I did search before posting it to see if it had already had been done. Most of the negative comments tend to discourage making link posts. One was so acerbic that, for the first time (on this Forum) put him on my ignore list so that he will never be disturbed by me again.
Let's do our best to promote learning in a brotherly loving manner for our hobby. When the few times I have felt making negative comments, this was done in private messages.-
2
-
1
-
-
On 3/4/2023 at 4:30 PM, Bills Auto Works said:
@CatBird would probably be the expert on this subject as he has his own museum in the shadow of Stone Mountain!
The Museum in Dawsonville is cool!!!!
God Bless
Bill
"Starting my 41st year of Classic/Hot Rod/Exotic Car Transport next month"
"Losers make promises they often break. Winners make commitments they always keep." – Denis Waitley
I have used Bill Squires to haul some of my old cars. He takes great care of them and is always on time. I highly recommend him. He is picking up a car in New York and bringing it home to me.
-
1
-
-
Two of the best car museums are The Savoy Automobile Museum. Part of a trilogy of world class museums. The other two as mentioned by Jim (and Grassy is still around) The Booth Western Art. Personally western art never was interesting to me, but the "Booth" blows me away! Stunning!
The Tellus is science and industry. They have an observatory and sometimes open to the public.
SavoyThe Booth
Tellus
Another must see is Miles Through Time. Check it out on Facebook. Young man, Sean Mathis is the owner/curator
Miles Through Time
One of his must see exhibits in MTT is done by a local artist/craftsman Gary Russeth (https://russeth.com/. He makes incredible sculptures of car made entirely from wood! He also made a 1/2 scale model of the General Locomotive.
We were part of a "Fast Brass Exhibit" with our 1913 Marmon 48B Speedster At the Savoy Automotive Museum. It is a huge car, 9.3 liters. 145" wheelbase. The Savoy put us with the "Big Boys." The Number 8 next to us is a 1909 Alco "The Black Beast" Twice winner of the prestigious New York's Vanderbilt Cup Race.
.jpg.bab3d646d8bd3e816c166e6296588b50.jpg)
-
1
-
-
On 3/4/2023 at 2:36 PM, jeff_a said:
Apparently there was a collection called Stone Mountain Car and Music Museum, now closed. Anyone know how long it was there or what vehicles it had? I gather a theme park called "Sliver Dollar City" is there now......but Trip Advisor reported some favorable reviews in the 2010-2015 period, and there were mentions of a 1917 Peerless Touring Car plus a Model "T" and a Tucker inside.
Stone Mountain Car and Music Museum closed about 20 years ago, sadly. Mark Hyman bought the inventory.
Don't know about "Silver Dollar City." Just looked at their website. Looks like fun but didn't see any cars? -
Post about Jay Leno's explanation when he got burned by a fire while working under his White Steam Car. He is very off hand about this and he has new smooth skin on his face!
-
4
-
-
On 2/24/2023 at 9:11 PM, AHa said:
The air/fuel system on your car is what is called a duel system. In theory, you turn the toggle on the hand pump to pressure and pump up pressure in the tank. The pressure should read on the dash gauge. If the toggle is in the grav position, any air you pump will go out the relief valve. With the toggle in the grave prosition, the gas tank will suck air through the relief valve. The relief valve is nothing more than a hole with a small bearing in it. When pressure is applied to the back side, the bearing seals in the hole but if there is no pressure, the bearing backs off allowing air into the system. The bearing is very small and can easily fall out without notice if one is not careful and knows not what they are doing, thus, the part is put back together without it, and there is no way to pressurize the system. The gauge is a simple volume detector and should work if there is pressure to read.
My 1911 also has a 5/16ths gas line but I think 5/16ths is typical for the era. Obviously, if the car were being raced, you would need a greater volume of fuel delivered to the carb so you have a duel system. One for leisure driving and another for racing. I suspect the car is special built for racing. In those years, 11-14, several car companies built special cars for people what wanted to drive their cars and also race them. The Mercer is an example.
Very helpful info! I will be checking for leaks. Yes, the toggle on the pump "PRESS" is trying to pressurize the tank. When the toggle is straight down, you can't pump the pump, solid pressure. The pump is working! I guess it does what you said when moved to "GRAV."
Possibly my car was for sport touring, maybe racing. Researching was it owned by a wealthy socialite. Who liked fast cars -
18 hours ago, Paul Dobbin said:
Another friend with a vaccum tank and gravity system used this to great touring satisfaction.
The great 6 volt fuel pump is a Carter P4259, also available from NAPA under their number B-0110-E low pressure no regulator needed. Life time warranty. NAPA Stores can't find it without their part number.
My electrical system has been upgraded to 12v
I am exploring and making the original system to work. Electric pumps seem to be prone to failure. A good friend and brass car guy is using a Holley 12-801-1 Red Electric fuel pump. He has seen dismal results with other electric fuel pump failure and this one keeps working. He is my "go-to guy" on brass cars. He has put more miles on a brass car than about everyone else put together! I sure trust his judgement.
I am buying one of these, and may stay in my toolbox unless needed. I am still trying to get the original system working.
Having to take a break. One of my fuel injected 350 Chevvy Crate engine is acting up in my thinly disguised race car. Thinking about a Holley 750 CFM mechanical secondaries and down leg booster. I have the mechanical fuel pump.
I have a lot of cars and they get jealous!
-
1
-
-
Good answers especially AHa. Will try your ideas. Old school is the best.
The gas line from the tank is 5/16 and appears to have been there all along. But who knows?
Here are my gages. I softened up the leather cup inside and I pumped the "press" and could feel resistance. Pump is working, but the gage never moved..jpg.f9d028d531a30f2d19745b4ff87f73f9.jpg)
-
1
-
-
More information. The Pump has indicators for "Grav" and "Press" I guess you pump the pressure and move to gravity feed. Notice the diagram from my Marmon manual. I do have the pressure gage on my car. But it never moves, even when running. Didn't know what it does.
It is very interesting understanding old cars. Takes friends and being a detective.
.jpeg.f6ca466dde952b0536a91706a2a35ac2.jpeg)
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, AHa said:
Can we get a final report on this problem? Did the new fuel pump solve it? Did you take the fuel filter off? Have you got it running good?
The new fuel pump did solve it. Facet Low Pressure fuel pump. The Marmon has a large sediment bowl between the tank and the pump. With the new pump, I was able to start and run. Drove it about 15 miles with no issues.
I am not happy with this arrangement as I would like to have gravity feed as it was original. The hand pump that applies air pressure to the tank and this system seems to work like it should.
In re-reading the comments here, I may trying going back to the gravity system with no filter. It is quite possible that my having added in the fuel filter cause a restriction that made the gravity system fail to deliver enough fuel.
In 1913, apparently the hand pump pressurized the gas tank and began a flow to the carburetor. But there is no additional plumbing that would keep the pressure up. Information is sketchy about how this setup originally worked. My car is the only 48B speedster made in 1913. And the 48B was only made that one year.
But for now, it is running and a pleasure to drive.-
2
-
-
2 hours ago, trimacar said:
All kidding aside, a month at Ed’s would be a great investment in the car’s future drivability. He’s able to walk the talk, and not all people attempting to sort out a car can…..
You are right. But the car itself is sorted out. Running great except with the fuel problem. It was in the hands of one of the exceptional brass car guys for 39 years. Has turn indicators, brake/tail lights, it has been toured. Shifts, drives, stops, all the right stuff. Better and easier than my other brass cars. I think that Marmon had great engineers!
I have the utmost respect for Ed Minnie and will keep this in mind.
Last night I installed an electric pump with 1 to 2.5 psi. I do have a kill switch for it. The carb did not overflow and the car ran like new. I plan to get out soon and drive it as soon as the day warms up!-
1
-
-
22 hours ago, edinmass said:
Bill, send it down to me for 18-24 months…….I’ll get it running and sorted……..I only need two weeks…….the rest is just for my pleasure! 👍
Sure, Ed, how much will you pay?
-
1
-
-
OK, I tried to run the original gravity feed and car would not start. The only difference between the original setup was an inline fuel filter.
Of course I previously drained the old fuel and replaced with clean fuel.
The carb is below the frame attached to the "Y" shaped brass fitting.
The hand pump on the side of driver side did not help even though it is connected to a supply line to the gas tank. The seal in the hand pump is good, but not sure the gas tank filler tops does not seal, it has the two huge racing tops, about 7 inches in diameter.
So I put the old setup back on after finding out that the old electric pump failed. Electric stop valve did work when power was applied to the pump and the stop valve. I replaced the dead pump with a new one that rated at 1 - 2 1/2 PSI. Pump ran a few seconds until the system pushed out the air and filled the carb.
The car ran for a few seconds and failed. I am going to try to check pressure and see if adjusting will the pressure regulator will help. I have cleaned the carb, and don't think it was sticking. There is an original setup does have an inline sediment setup. I drained and cleaned it. The was a bit of swarf and gluck.
My car was had a major brass car guy for 39 years. I am going to call him and ask why it had the setup, see picture. It did run for many years including me when I bought it.
I would like to make the original setup to work. I don't like electric pumps.
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, AHa said:
The dash mounted fuel pressure gauge for early cars register 0-4 or 0-5 lbs of pressure. The gas tank is usually pumped up with air from the pump. If your motor is starving for gas, I would recommend replacing the line and valve from the tank, or, blow it out. All sorts of restrictions can form in that line. You may need to keep more gas in the tank. My T model runs out if there is less than a gallon in the tank. Take the gas line off at the carb and see how much gas runs through the open line. You may need to clean the air inlet hole, usually found in the gas tank lid, but in your case, there would be a check ball valve built into the air pump for the gas tank. If it is not working properly, it will restrict the air from entering the top of the tank and the gas from leaving the bottom.
Will try this, thanks! -
Several people have asked about the car. It is a 1913 Marmon 48B Speedster. Someone installed a Facet fuel pump through a Holly regulator and then an electric stop valve. (see picture) It failed and I replaced it all with a piece of rubber hose. My car starts and idles just fine. But under power it fails. Fuel starvation?
Possibly the electric "stop" valve was to somehow reverse siphon?
My car has a hand pump that could be used by the driver. (see picture) I suppose it increased to gas tank pressure to get a better flow to the carburetor. It is still in place, but not sure the pump no longer works. Possibly there is a pump in the engine that maintains the air pressure to the tank to better deliver the gas to the carb.
The car is a 9.4 Liter and needs a lot of fuel. Some of the low pressure pumps are for lawnmowers and might not have the delivery and may starve my engine.
I have ordered another electric pump that is at 1 to 2 1/2 psi. If it overpower my carb, I'll add in a regulator.
Facet fuel pumpI am no kind of engineer, just feeling my way, here. Open to suggestions.
.png.jpg.ff585b605b504ea129daa6d561820d9f.jpg)
-
We acquired this car from Lillian Coker, widow of Harold Coker (Coker Tire Company). Except for the top, upholstery and modern 12v batteries it is original. It has been in several collections and once in a World's Fair.
.jpg.024ea979f68a0e94c496fba91c008d39.jpg)
(Medium).jpg.9db0710b568638b8b4cd00eb0cdd5cd6.jpg)
-
10
-
-
350 Chevrolet crate, small block, mild cam in a 1958 Lister replica built by Chuck Beck.
My car was running very well. FiTech 400hp 4bbl injection installed by a professional shop in Florida. I used the handheld to check initial setup and since it has a major problem and will easily start, but will not idle. I have to keep the revs at 2500, but dies.
Adding starting fluid to the throat and it runs quite well. This must be a fuel starvation problem..jpg.44f4e49e9189ef192db5287ea20a5f0c.jpg)
.jpg.bab3d646d8bd3e816c166e6296588b50.jpg)
.jpg.f9d028d531a30f2d19745b4ff87f73f9.jpg)
.jpeg.f6ca466dde952b0536a91706a2a35ac2.jpeg)
The carb is below the frame attached to the "Y" shaped brass fitting.
.png.jpg.ff585b605b504ea129daa6d561820d9f.jpg)
.jpg.024ea979f68a0e94c496fba91c008d39.jpg)
(Medium).jpg.9db0710b568638b8b4cd00eb0cdd5cd6.jpg)
.jpg.44f4e49e9189ef192db5287ea20a5f0c.jpg)
Where is the Engine number/block on 1978 DeVille 7 liter?
in General Discussion
Posted
I will try to get under there. I knew it was somewhere there. My problem is that there may have been a change in the middle of 1978. The power steering pump is different. Want to get the right piece.