keithb7
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Posts posted by keithb7
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@edinmass You mentioned that yoiur sleeve valve engine display functions. Are you able record a video and cycle the display, and upload it to You Tube? So we can see it working! That would be pretty cool. Thanks, Keith
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Turned out that the photographer spent a fair bit of time with the kids in and around my '38 Plymouth. Here are a couple more pics. Sorry if I hi-jacked the thread. I'm a pretty proud poppa this week.
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Pull one inner tie rod end from its seat. Turn steering one direction to full lock, and steering linkage will be out of the way.
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I own a ‘53 Chrysler Windsor. Its been a very fun and rewarding car. Certainly not expensive to acquire, yet the mechanical knowledge and experience I have gained from its ownership has been priceless. The cars offer comfortable cruising. Plenty of chrome and early 50’s luxury.
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My aoogahh horn was dying a slow death. Slowing down. Trouble shooting I found it was not due to grounds or a relay. I popped it open released the brushes. I hand sanded everything with emery cloth. Cleaned up all the contacts and brushes. It's working great again now. Some of the best tones I ever heard from it!
The aaoogah horn, any type of electric horn actually, needs lots and lots of free flowing electrons going through it to work properly. Tracing the path of electrons everywhere, and cleaning up all connections is paramount to a good working horn.
Don't let those pesky little electrons get bunched up at a restriction before entering the horn. Or let a bunch of them take a shortcut to ground and completely skip the horn work you asked them to do. They are like untamed savages in the wild if they are not contained and strictly controlled. They will do as they please, taking the laziest, quickest simplest path back to ground without doing any work, if you let them. They will go as far as light fires in your car if they all stampede and rush to an escape route, directly back to ground. Madness, these electrons.
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I had them both out yesterday again. Family wedding time! My younger son got married. He wanted both of my cars in his covid-modified drive by type wedding. When your kids get married it's a pretty awesome feeling. Add your vintage cars? Its very rewarding too!
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1 hour ago, keiser31 said:
Got mine and it works quite well. Thanks, Keith.
I am glad to hear that Kaiser. You were quick to get on the brakes and try it out!
Keith
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1 hour ago, hilgretasmom1 said:
Do you have any of the brake adjustment tools left? If so, how do I obtain one?
Yes i have some left. Please send me an email to obtain one at kbarron2679@gmail.com
1 hour ago, Matt Harwood said:I wish I'd seen this sooner. If there are any left after the gentlemen ahead of me, 'll take one as well!
Yes, guys I'd be happy to send you both one. I look forward to hearing from you. - Keith
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My second car was this Capri seen here. This is the only pic I have of it. I believe it was about a 1973 model year. Mine was the V6. 2.3L if I recall. 4 speed manual. I rebuilt the engine when I was about 17. The power to weight ratio was really good! I'd rev it, shift and chirp the tires. Even from 3rd into 4th. All my buddies were impressed. The thing was like a little muscle car. I street raced several larger V8 cars and kick some butt! I had dual exhaust with no rear or tail pipes. I just had turn downs right at the muffler out. It was cheaper that way and I was broke all the time. The mufflers were about right under the front seats. It would resonate and make your teeth shake. LOL. It was fun. I'd like to have one again today. Would be a fun resto and project. It'd be tough to walk away if I saw one for sale locally.
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Maybe my opinion is unwanted here but I'll chirp in anyway.
Gear ratios:
Back in the day top speeds were much less. Cars were designed by engineers for the good all-around performance. Climbing hills, cruising on open roads too. They had to keep in mind the car weight, horsepower, and performance and yet remain priced right for the market they wanted to target. Most roads were dirt and riddled with pot holes and washboard wear back in the early 30's. Brake performance was adequate for the speeds back in the days. The lack of safety features was not a a big deal. Then cars became faster. More HP. Paved interstates were developed. The old jalopies from the early years were far inferior. Taking a stock equipped car from the early period, and trying to make it cruise closer to today's speeds, in my opinion is a blunder. As mentioned, you may get lower RPM's at higher speeds, but what about the skinny tires? The inadequate brakes? The lack of safety? The steering ratio and suspension handling? The low engine torque and HP. None of this was designed for higher speeds. Climbing any hills with a higher diff gear ratio could put you in danger as well. You'll be very slow on hills potentially be a sitting duck for upcoming modern traffic. Even when stock, you'd be slow. Changing the diff, even worse.
Many end up starting the modifications and keep going from there. Upgrading each system to accommodate the changes made. There is a market for 1930's cars with all the power and handling improvements. Then yes, you can keep up in traffic, stop, and steer no problem. Resto-mods I think is a term. Of course the choice is yours to do as you please. Just pointing out that the diff is only one piece of the puzzle. It was all designed to work together to be adequate for average driving in the 1930's. Cheers. - K
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I am fortunate to own two old cars. For one car I purchased brand be new Coker white wall radial tires. They suit the car, a '53 Chrysler. In my opinion more of a luxury market type of car. The other car got brand new skinny Coker bias 6.00-16 period correct, black walls. A working man's 1938 Plymouth. It was a bottom end priced car. I don't think it should have white walls. Just my opinion of course. The old Plymouth with black walls certainly gets its share of attention while out cruising today. I'm not looking to win any trophies, just do the car some justice and drive it too.
My two options, seen below.
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Seven sold. I have 3 remaining from batch #2. If in need send me a message.
I tweaked my Chrysler brakes this past weekend. They feel great!
Thanks.
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A few options:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/903684253414908/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/229604325115781/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2624572817868034/
Option three is a good looking, running 1950 Straight 8 New Yorker. Must Go it says. Open to offers. Starting price $7K. Negotiate from there. I see an 8V battery in it.
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Other odd things I have seen, parts kit shows up and parts are not the same as expected. Be sure the piston assembly is the exact length needed. Seen here, the new longer piston was supposed to be for my 38 Plymouth. What came out of my 38 however was the shorter one.
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Original Chrysler shop manual image (pic 1) compared to the Motors manual image. See the little rubber gasket at the far left end only on the Motors manual illustration (pic 2) . It's not shown in the original Chrysler illustration. I see that rubber seal in your parts image above. Where did you place it inside the master?
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Yes, the original tool measures the inside drum diameter. Also the toe and the heel settings separately. It does help in getting you the best brake setting you can set up. The original tool sells for about $600-$700 USD plus shipping. This $100 tool works very well to get your shoes concentric to the drums, netting an improved brake system. I've used it for set shoe set up and enjoyed much improved braking. Seems to me, it gets me quite close, quickly, and for much less cost.
What I did was adjust a shoe until it made contact with the drum. Backed it off slightly, then removed the drum. Then used this position as my benchmark. Set my tool here, then around the shoes, setting them both up. Equal distance. Concentric all the way around. Netting very good, much improved brake performance. I have a good high pedal.
I could not justify the cost for the original tool. So I made this. It worked well. Others have asked if I'd consider building more. I did and offered them to others. The batch of 5 all sold. I am sure they'll help other Mopar owners set up their brakes. Cheers, Keith.
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A very comfortable cruiser. Yes indeed. It floats and steers like a butterfly with radial tires. You’d forget mine has manual steering while driving it. I’ve had my passengers also comment how comfortable they are in it.
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Thats appears to be a decent deal. I own a twin. Fun car. We enjoy it.
here’s mine.
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Awesome photos! You have balls man...Not everyone would tow a trailer on a trip that far with a 25 year old truck. Let alone a 72 year old flathead....And take the family! Kudos to you for making it happen and creating great family memories for your kids.
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At the exhaust shop today. Up on a hoist! How nice to be able to walk under it.
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Hi folks, I had a tool made to try and set up my old Mopar brakes better. The original Miller tool is quite pricey, so I needed to do something else. I had great success using this tool to set my shoes concentric to the drums. I've had a few people ask if I'd consider making more of the same tool. So I did.
I had my friend make up a batch of 5 . I’ve used this tool on my 1938 with 10” brakes and my 1953 with 11” brakes. Axle thread nut is ¾”-16. Only USA high quality hardware used. $100 USD, for 1 shipped anywhere in USA or Canada. $110 USD to $120 USD shipped to Australia. Any interest? Prefer Paypal. Price includes prepaid shipping within Canada, USA or Australia too!
. - Keith
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Thanks Bloo, I assume I have the 3rd brush alternator. I thought this because I read about it in the 1938 shop manual. I do have and see a voltage regulator on the firewall.
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Email sent. Interested in 1 of your books. If you don't get the email let me know through here. Thanks. Keith
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Knight vs Packard, 1910 rivalry
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)
@edinmassIf you have an iphone or other similar...Download the You Tube app. Then open the app and set up a YT account. Allow it to access your camera and mic if needed. When the app is open, look at the bar at the top. Look for a little icon of a movie camera. Click it. Then hit record. Review, and or trim your video. Add a title, description etc. Be sure to set privacy to "public". Then tap the word "upload" in the top RH corner of the screen. Once it uploads you are ready to go. Look for a "share" link in your video when reviewing on the YT app. Hit share, then copy the link. Then come here to this site and paste the link. Then we can see and view your video.