TerryB
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Posts posted by TerryB
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I’m thinking it could be in the wheel cylinder. That’s because your left side is working fine so fluid is getting to it and because you say relieving the pressure in the cylinder by opening the bleeder releases the brakes. Maybe the wheel cylinder piston and rubber are jamming in the bore under the pressure of braking, just like it’s slightly out of round? By removing the pressure in the cylinder the piston can then be pushed back. Then when the brake is applied the whole process starts all over and it is again jammed?
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The thermostat is under the water outlet to the radiator. Usually they were available in 160 degree and 180 degree. There is a good chance your local auto parts store has one and a new gasket for it.
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12 minutes ago, v12lincoln said:
I should tell you I swapped it to disk breaks and a dual master cylinder 25 years ago, to many stupid drivers here in california, need the extra stopping power
Disk brakes on all 4 wheels?
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Thinking out loud here..if you swap brake drums from right to left do get same side sticking?
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If you jack up the rear of the car so the wheels can turn freely and then apply the brakes, does the right rear stick and bind then?
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Did you remove the wheel cylinder to see if the pistons inside it are free to move smoothly?
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Sort of looks like 1937 Chevrolet. The extra holes might be reinforcing for truck use?
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At the beginning of this video you might get some more info on your generator issue and how to do some tests. There are probably more videos but this one was the first to show up in my search.
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I’m not familiar with the construction of your Ford generator but if it has a metal band around the brush end of the generator, have you removed the band to inspect the condition of the brushes. Sometimes they are dirty and need to be cleaned and/or reseated in their holders.
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Needs more elbow grease (aka attention to detail) to justify the price.
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3 hours ago, Gearheadengineer said:
I love it.
It looks like there is something going on with the flashers dangling under the dash though
Must be some electrical Gremlins that need chasing down😀.
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The voltage regulator needs to be well grounded to the car body. You might want to check your body ground straps to make sure they are not loose or corroded.
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Never saw one of those!
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Does your Ford shop manual have testing information for the regulator? I was looking at my 1958 Motors manual and it describes some tests for the regulator. If they would be helpful let me know. Personally I would examine the condition of the brushes and contact area under the brushes as a first step.
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Well at least it’s not the typical picture of it on a flatbed trailer….
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We have to somehow imagine how bad the interior is and if it runs. Poor ad.
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I like it! Neat funky car that won’t be mistaken for a Chevy!
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Not sure the license plate with the letters PEUU is helpful when selling, might give the potential buyer the wrong message 😀.
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It looks like it is an original based on the electric stickers and Los Angeles California name being spelled out. In the early 1960s using two letters for states was adopted so I would say your item is 1950s era. The electrical issues could be addressed with a new ballast and starter as possible repairs or you could retrofit an led style bulb. The crack might be addressed with a little super glue or something similar. I have no idea on value but i would expect the BMW fans to be quite interested in it.
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Looks like it was custom made from all the added solder? used to hold thee tubes to the top tank. Very small to be for a full size auto.
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Short answer-No, they were not going to use the pickup. It was the Official Truck of the Indy 500 that year. The Chevy Beretta was the pace car.
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The thing I value when buying non necessary toys for myself is the interest and passion the dealership has for these items and their interactions with the purchaser after the sale. Over the years I spent a big chunk of my disposable income on motorcycles. The first purchases were for competition units and later a combination of light competition and adventure travel motorcycles. In those purchases it was evident what dealers shared your passion for the sport and would go out of their way to keep you up and running in the competition side as well as your Sunday relaxation travel. I had a select group that I knew and trusted which in 99% of my spending was with them. I supported them because they supported me and the motorcycle community. They sponsored events, carried the gear you requested and worked to give service above and beyond what was expected. Price for me was not paramount as I knew they need to make a profit to stay in business. I am still friends with many of them despite being out of the hobby for more than 12 years.
In the antique car hobby it’s clear there are dealers like this who not only provide the cars and services we desire but get involved in promoting and keeping the hobby alive. They come on here and give advice to people having issues and recommend products they have personally used. All this and still having to deal with people who think they are somehow not deserving of making some money to stay in business. All this talk of “how much markup” is really unfair to our loyal hobby supporters. If you go to their websites you’ll see some really great autos and you know they’ve taken the time and effort to sort them out before you drive away. No personal sales will go that far unless they too want to share the passion with you. Support works both ways my friends, if you choose to keep a hobby going you need to do your part too.
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Take a look at this sales brochure on eBay
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There were no VIN numbers when that car was made. The manufacturer serial number was used and on some the engine serial number was used for registration purposes.
1932 Styling Wooden Packard Shovel Nose
in Memorabilia, Toys, Art, Signs, Clothing and Printed Material
Posted
Packard Museum in Ohio might be able to give you more information about it.