alini
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Posts posted by alini
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You dont have to remove anything but when you are using chemicals to strip the old adhesive you dont want it getting on your vinyl
If you are mechanically removing all the old adhesive you can do it all on the door
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NO the whole door panel needs to be removed, or should be removed from the door to make it easier to work on.....my suggestion is NOT taking the metal frame off the door panel
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Just be very careful if you decide or need to remove the metal frame from the door skin....those little tabs are very brittle, if they break you will have to come up with a fix.
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Here I see the only detailed pic I could find. But it does show the mounting hardware and carpet strips. Hope this helps
save the pic on your computer or phone and you will be able to zoom in and read it
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I see you did a rear disk brake conversion. Is there still a parking brake available or does it get deleted?
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8 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said:
YES!!!
Where's my 5 bucks Chris? I told u Jeff would be back haha JK
Glad to see u back in the garage Jeff. Looking very nice.
I had no doubt he would be back. It's RobJ I wanna see. He fell off the face of the earth
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I would leave the panel in place on the skin. You can remove the skin from the door to make it easier
to work with. The tabs that hold the trim panel to the door skin are very brittle and may break. Remove your wood as mentioned with putty knife and some stripper. I would mask off your vinyl as to not get any on it. Then cut your veneer to fit and use automotive spray adhesive to secure it
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The thing those restoration shows dont tell you, it took them two years to complete
I took 762 hours to get to where I am. Thats 95 business days (8 hour shifts) if you were an employee of a shop. Almost half a year, and I didnt work none stop ;)...so it took 4 years
Just work at your pace and make sure you are enjoying the work....once the tools/parts/ atmosphere in the garage gets tense or out of hand.....step away and come back after you rested. Its supposed to be enjoyable, when its not, thats when you make your mistakes
Keep up the good work
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When I get home I will check my books and see what I can put together for ya
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I just replaced the fuel sending unit in the tank, I had installed the wrong one during the build (and intended on having this done today so it was not a point of interest in the original ad since it would be completed before the sale ended) My son and I went and got gas to check the unit, I put about 8 miles round trip just cruising around. Tonight my wife and I will take it out and cruise Las Vegas. My plan all along was sell it til an offer came and for some reason I jumped the gun and put a ad on ebay. I need to do what my heart told me from the beginning and what you guys are all saying.....own it til the offer comes. So in a few hours my wife and I will jump in the car and drive around the Strip and have fun. The money will come, I dont need to sell it, Im not desperate...but boy would it be nice to be debt free....and have the garage space to start my next project.
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I pulled the ad. The wife and I will spend the weekend evaluating our situation. We will formulate a game plan and might relist it or look at other avenues.
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The fact you say you have a light on all the time tells me there is a short somewhere or your turn signal switch has broken in the right position
the turn signal switch is located at the base of the steering wheel just before the firewall. There is a wire that connects the lever you actuate to the switch. See if the tab has broken or the wire has become disconnected . If that is all sound than it's a short in the wiring
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Place the console in place with all the covers removed. Bolt it to the floor and secure the carpet. Hook up the wiring for the lights. Then starting from the rear secure the covers. The last piece is the AC/ashtray surround
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Thanks for the suggestions. So far though all the messages I have received thru ebay have been nothing but bashing comments. I can't believe people can be so rude. If you don't like the price then don't bid. I'll probably take the ad down and just park the car in the garage. I'm not desperate to sell. It was just part of the plan. I have a really nice car. Won't be anything wrong with keeping it, it just wasn't what I wanted out of this. We will see
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I just received a message thru eBay from a guy who wanted to point out e has followed these cars for years and the more original it is the higher the price. Well that's why I didn't start the bidding at 40k silly. I know it's not original. So he already things $25k is too much for a fresh rebuild
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Here is a close up for reference
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31 minutes ago, jframe said:
Ok, Chris, I was looking at your ad. What air cleaner assembly did you use to get the factory emblem to fit on top, and is it compatible with a factory diameter filter? Kinda thinkin' I want an open element air cleaner for mine, but with a somewhat factory appearance like yours.
Are you sitting down??? Thats the factory box, just cut to fit the filter and rolled the top edge so it holds the filter than I repainted it and put a new sticker on it. The lower half is the easiest piece, just drill out the spot welds and it falls apart to the correct size. There is a small baffle for the snorkel, I just modified the tabs so I can rotate that to the rear. So yes the factory filter works
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The other thing I noticed is ALOT of the sellers are just trying to offload the car and price them for a quick sale rather than what it's worth. Just saw two awesome cars for under 10 but when you read it they just wanna get rid of it. If they sold them for what they are worth it would take them a while
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I've been looking at the quality of the cars a lot. More times than not under 20 isn't bad considering what needs to be done. They are road worthy factory original cars but definitely worn. Most of the ones I saw don't seem to be well maintained and based off the online car valuation tools most are priced right
with my listing starting at 25 I think is a fair price considering it is a flawed rebuild. It's a twenty footer that rides well. But with every component new in the car I expect a bit more for it. Most
of the car you see still have points. The alternators are original. The at is questionable. They may need brakes if not know soon. They look great cosmetically. It mechanically there are too many unknowns to expect a top dollar . Almost all the cars that went thru barrett Jackson the past five years have gone for on avg over 25k and even the highest ones are only tipping 40k and I have seen all the ones in Vegas and except one they all needed work. It auction value and actual street value are two different things. Which is why I won't go that route to sell
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Thanks Mitch
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I am proud of the work I put into it but everytime in look at the car all I see is flaws. The things I could have done better. The things I should have done while I was doing it rather than going stock with things.
Everytime I get in it after a few days and it doesn't fire right up I question if I missed an adjustment or what is wrong. When it's just fuel hasn't gotten to the carb yet . I worry about operating temps cause there is no gauge. The other day the headlights didn't open because of a lose connection at a relay but my blood pressure was thru the roof . I know every flaw in the paint and they stick out like a sore thumb
driving the car is sweet. My buddy was impressed as we went to lunch two weeks ago that at 40mph all he heard was the radio. So it runs smooth as hell
the car was supposed to take 2 years it ended up being four.
The plan all along was to flip it. Doing everything myself to save cash. Using saved money from pay check to pay check to not drive up debt. All so I could sell it for a profit in the end and pay off my existing debt. I would be debt free except my house and camaro payment . I'm now equipped in my garage to do anything to a car and be debt free. I could than move to a project of my own. The riviera fell in my lap. A buddy hit me up at a bar one night and pitched it to me I was looking for a project no where near as big as this one but I saw the potential
the auction right now has a moderate reserve on it. A serious buyer who knows what he is getting will pay it and I walk away happy. The starting bid is just to keep the looky loos away but it's still a profit in itself. I doubt the auction will close with a sale but I wanna know where I am at
i tested myself to build a car from top to bottom in and out. I did it . I resurrected a car from the grave and gave it life. Now it belongs in the hands of someone who will love it and make it their own. I left so much stuff stock just because of this. Had it built it for me I would have spent twice as much and probably twice as long
i can't be anymore honest about it
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Testing the waters but the right offer will take it
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There is just a single keyed power wire to the kickdown (big block) switch, this is then connected to the trans or the detent switch (mounted on the throttle linkage). Pretty basic wiring, if you really want to put the switch pitch back into action. Ive heard of guys running without it and having no issue. Depends on what your end goal is
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My 65 riv came with a shady clip that holds the kickdown switch to the throttle linkage. What is the correct clip for that and where might I find it. Is it just a simple c-clip?
I took 762 hours to get to where I am. Thats 95 business days (8 hour shifts) if you were an employee of a shop. Almost half a year, and I didnt work none stop ;)...so it took 4 years
Center console 65 Rivi
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Yes those are the books.