alini
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Posts posted by alini
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That's what I see when I look in my garage at the heap of crap I built
. Just kidding. Already it didn't turn out like that
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Due to the space behind the dash I dont see how I can get a pen in there to do the repair without pulling the gauge module. Back to my original question though, Im thinking if I remove the top dash and unsecure the module I can slide it forward and reach everything from the top and not have to disconnect the various switches mounted to the module.
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its not repairable, the different layers are all seperated and peeling. So Im hoping OPGI has one in stock and I can get it fairly quickly...they seem to be the only source I have found so far
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My dash light problem has been narrowed down to the circuit card behind the dash. Its a basic repair, remove all the bulbs, disconnect the speedo and wiring harness and a few 5/16s screws and it falls off. Just trying to figure out whats gonna be easier. Removing the dash pad and going at it from the top and through the holes in the dash on the bottom, or remove the gauge cluster and do it on the bench.
How would you do it, or have done it???
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I thought the cardboard at the hinges was held up by two clips each. But as I cleaned my garage today I found another pair. Where might another cardboard clip go?
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You said manifold. Do you mean the water manifold in the front? Those bolts go into the water jacket so
so water will leak out. Nothing wrong
get yourself a set of service manuals. They are all over the place for under $20. Well worth it
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I have heard people do it that way and I have heard left front right front and then tears working away from the MC.
As long as the air is out. That's what matters
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What is up with the two bottom rivets for your plate. They seem really big. You sure that's the plate for the Car
not knowing the history of the car what's to say someone didn't install it back in the day?
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Took the car out to LVMS today for the children's charity car show they do before the race. Car got judged by Rollie from counts customs. He liked the work and impressed that I did it all. Loved the color and gave me credit for the custom auto sound radio. Keeping a stock appearance but being modern
show included a pic provided by them. Second one is mine
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8 hours ago, offdensen said:
This was it, thanks for the input everyone!
Very helpful site indeed.
Remove the original piece from the actuator as a reference. Get a replacement length of hose from your local parts store. Should be able to feed it through the firewall and have one solid piece from actuator to switch.
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just one example/source http://www.classictruck.com/product/1936_1972_Glass_setting_tape_GST/1936-46_Trucks_Window_Rubber-Seals-Kits-General_Glass_Setting_Tape
there are hundreds of suppliers and a bunch of sizes....so you need to figure out what you need
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You dont specify which year of Riviera you have. As mentioned the rear glass in a first gen is also held into bracket with 'setting tape' it comes in various thicknesses. You have to measure you frame gap and subtract your glass thickness and order something SLIGHTLY larger in thickness. bracket in a vise and spray the tape and glass down with soapy water and then tap the glass into the bracket with a rubber mallet. Let the water dry and then trim the excess away.
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I got under the dash this afternoon after the show. I studied the routing of the circuits on the dash and the wires installed. I found it funny that all the circuits involved were on the pins on the upper side of the connector. All the lower pins are the power and output for the warning lights. The upper side is the dash lights, turn signal, hi beam and gas gauge.
While I was messing with the connector I noticed some of the dash lights would flicker....so I stated pressing around on the circuit card itself and as I pressed in the middle between the turn signals and hi beam light suddenly all the dash lights worked correctly and with the key on the gas gauge went up while the lights were on.....so working as advertised.
So I need a new circuit card.....problem solved....once install the new one
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Based of the dark sludge out of the filter I'm going with that one as the prime. Regardless it's running great right now and that's all that matters
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The car ran 350 miles of 90% city stop and go. Every traffic light sitting at idle for how long. We cruised Las Vegas Blvd last Saturday in bumper to bumper traffic for about two miles. So the engine ran for how much longer than a car on more open road in the same distance
i cut the filter open this morning when I removed it. Nothing out of the ordinary except a lot of normal sludge for a break in. Just because the odometer said 350 I'm sure it's closer to 600 miles on the engine. I'm comfortable with the fix. It ran great today
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For the record I just finished a 70 miles round trip and the car ran fine. No issues with the light. In fact I got 11.6 mpg, so the motor is strong and it was just the filter got clogged faster than I anticipated. I have 432 miles, next weekend I should be at 500 we will change the oil and filter again.
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re read my reply, I clarified the part I was refering to
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There is a vacuum line from the Cruise Control dashpot actuator in the engine bay through the firewall to a switch on the brake pedal. Someone might have spliced in that clear junk in its place under the dash. That is the only vacuum line under the steering column
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Read original post for update on condition. Bottom line. Replaced the oil filter
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On the way home from a 35 miles one way trip, the car ran great going but on the way home when I approached the first stop light of the trip (five miles in) the oil light flickered. It jumped on then off, not glowing, solidly on and off, twice maybe three hits. I immediately put the car in neutral and had no issue. So we continued on. The very next light after coming to a complete stop and a few seconds of sitting in idle the light would flicker. As I travelled I did some testing, if I arrived at the light in neutral the light would never come on. Only when in gear and only when at a complete stop. It never came on, just a quick blip or two. The car ran awesome the whole way home, no noises. When I got home I checked oil was at the add line and clean, especially for an engine with 365 miles on it. I topped it up and I checked my idle speed. It was down to 450 when in gear, so I bumped it up to the book 550 and ran the car for a few moments in gear with no further issue.
This is a fresh rebuild with a new oil pump, new pressure switch. I have cancelled attending the show that I just registered tonight for. Due to the fact its so far from home I wanna do some local testing with it. I need to install a gauge, just need to find the right place to put it. Im thinking the idle speed in gear was too low and the RPM wasnt truly loaded up until I was at a complete stop. Opinions???
UPDATE- it was the oil filter Since it's a fresh rebuild the filter collected the. It also break in stuff. Since I have pretty much done everything city the 350 miles at the time of the light flashing was equal to the operating time of the 500 I planned on changing the oil. Change the filter and turn up the idle to 550 and just drive 35 miles to the show without missing a beat
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Everything works correctly until I put the headlights on. Once they are on the turnsignals and hi beam indicator come on slightly and the gas gauge goes to zero, with no dash lights I know its a ground issue just need to find a good spot to connect to and make sure the ground is good as well. I have bigger issues now that need more attention
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I had replaced the unit. I did have the wrong one installed but it is now correct and with the lights off the gauge is accurate. Verified with a full tank of gas. Once I turn the lights on the gas gauge goes to zero and I have no dash loghts
i am studying a picture of an uninstalled circuit card and I'm seeing numerous possible ground circuits. They may be power. The wiring diagram I am using is horrible since I am not at home with the laminated card and can't verify wiring color. But I did find the gas gauge and dash lights do use the same ground circuit so I just need to verify I have my grounds hooked to the right spots
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I added a ground to my dash lights, by placing an eyelet under one of the mounting screws for the circuit card. Initial test were positive and I thought I was good. This past weekend we replaced the incorrect fuel tank sending unit, and with the lights OFF the gas gauge works perfect. Problem is once I put the headlights on, the dash lights no longer work and the gas gauge goes to E.
I already took the ground wire right out of the dash plug and made it connect right to a fresh ground and I left the previous added ground in place. Still no joy.
Anyone one got any suggestions or should I start looking at swapping out that circuit card. I have power getting to the card since all the dash warning lights have power/ground and work correctly but the dash lights and gas gauge seem to have something in common to the ground that is not playing fair.
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Thanks Ed. I was hoping to find out what the car came with and would like to keep to that style since it's what the car designed with and the safest bet. I don't want to just buy any clip that will work only to have it fail and me not know. Granted the switch pitch isn't a safety problem but I don't need a clip bouncing around my carb and throttle linkage
. Just kidding. Already it didn't turn out like that
1963 white riv going thru Barrett Jackson today
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by alini (see edit history)
Be interesting to see how this one does compared to the past few years. I should be able to make it down there late Saturday to check it out first hand