alini
-
Posts
1,033 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by alini
-
-
Thanks guys, I cranked down the idle for the timing test and its better but still see a bit of a drop in RPM. I do have the idle in park at about 800 now. I do have a mild cam and the car isnt quite broken in yet. I have 78 miles on her as of this moment. I notice it idles better and better as we go, so the rings are setting in and Im completely confident my car is running the best it should right now.
Its been a long time since I drove a carb car, let alone one with a cam in it....so knocking the cob webs out of my head and learning how an old car drives. Its not a 2016 Camaro in more way than one
-
1
-
-
I got down to about that, pulled the vac line and timing is about 5*, I know the book calls for 2.5 but ive also heard and done in the past more advance. Ive got idle in 550 in drive and idle in park will be between 800 and 950. I think its the dashpot on the throttle that's inconsistent holding the throttle open a touch. No vacuum leaks to speak of, I checked intake, carb base and vacuum line connections
-
This might come across as stupid, but hell I've been here a few years and come up with some doozies. So I want to work this timing stuff and the high RPM drop. I want to set the timing, but the service manual calls for 500 rpm at idle in gear. So at what idle speed should I set NOT IN GEAR to adjust the timing. I know what degrees it should be but what RPM? Since I have the base rpm so high right now Im thinking I need to turn it down, just not sure how far.
-
I know it's not electric. It's the mechanism between the window regulator and motor. The gears and links are all loose on their pivot points so the motor ands up binding once hit it's the full down position. If I can figure out a way to keep everything in line I will be good but I don't know if there is a way to tighten these points. Bean injury press them tighter like a rivet?
-
I spent the afternoon verifying all the wiring on the detent and kick down switches are right and I have good power getting through all of them. I had to do some other things to, which precluded me from doing any engine run testing. So tomorrow I will crank her up and verify timing and fuel adjustments and take it on the road and see if the switch pitch is working. Will let you know what I find out
-
Thanks for the link. I have been doing some light research on the topic. The crazy runs and drives well with the current settings and I have more pressing issues I needed to fix. Based off what I see in that thread there is no clear cut "fix" but it does give me some directions on things to check like vacuum and timing. I know my base timing is right but I might need to change advance springs. I went with a light/heavy combo most people suggested in the MSD ready to run distributor.
I don't believe I have a vacuum leak based off the performance of the car so far but I can check. I don know the carb could use some better adjustments with idle fuel mix . I will tinker with it. The car never feels like it's gonna die and it's running strong. I only have 40 miles on her. I wanna get the known torque converter issue fixed before I make any adjustments and see what changes that brings to the table
-
No left them the gray they came. My understanding was no matter what color car you had or interior color it was a gray trunk. So I left it factory appearance
-
But it depends on which configuration my converter is stuck in. A 64 with out SP is equal to which angle in a SP converter. i believe it's the high angle. If I'm in low angle the converter is more direct drive and creating drag . Like putting in a high stall converter in a racecar
-
3 minutes ago, JZRIV said:
The 64 did not have the variable pitch trans & converter. 65,66,67 were only year privileged to get this.
Missed that part of his post. Nevermind
-
Twice now I have had my passgenger side window bind up at the lowest position. I have it adjusted to stop just as it arrives flush with the top of the door. It travels smoothly when operating and the motor is new. I'm thinking the pivot points of the regulator are just worn out and I noticed they all seem to tweak off "center" as the more tries to pull thru the stop. Anyone got any suggestions on how to tighten up the linkages?
-
I would check the operation of your torque converter. I'm betting the switches on the throttle are not working or out of adjustment and your trans is loading up the engine too much. I am having similar issues with a major idle drop when put into gear and going down that path of troubleshooting.
-
1 hour ago, JZRIV said:
Any particular reason you are idling at 1000RPM Chris?
Another quick test. No background noise, key on, engine off, hood up, grab throttle linkage rod that comes out of fire wall and push back to accelerate just an 1/8 inch or so, let off, do again, repeat. You should hear the switch pitch solenoid click on and off inside the transmission as the micro switch on the accelerator linkage works back and forth. Important you must not push on the linkage rod that connects to carb, only the rod coming through firewall. If no solenoid click, start by verifying the micro switch operation then continue the electrical troubleshooting process down the line if needed.
One of my 67s had an SP converter that was bad and would not change angle even when the solenoid was energizing. Replaced the converter and wow did it wake the car up. Wish they would have continued this system into the heavy boattails. They could benefit from it.
I have to have it idle at 1000 because when I put it in gear the idle drops to the service manual 500. Which makes me believe my converter is in the locked up configure dragging the motor down. I'm betting once I sort it out I can bring the idle down
-
Thanks guys. I'm gonna check the switches on the throttle. I know the Microswitch on the pivot point is adjust right and it clicks when I actuate it. I need to check continuity. I had disassemble the larger block switch that hooks to the linkage and intake. It was working fine when I rebuilt it but that was a while ago and with the electrical bugs I've been finding who knows. I will keep everyone posted once I find the smoking gun
-
I used cardboard from rubber the right way and the grey tweed from CARS.
-
With the car back on the road finally and having absolutely no history with the car as an operational vehicle I have no clue what Im supposed to feel or not feel with a Switch Pitch Transmission.
The car is shifting all three gears, smoothly and as expected. But I have concerns my switch pitch isnt switching pitch. I have a major drop in RPM when I put it in drive, from 1000 to 550 as if the stall in the converter is not right. I come off the line like a rocket, but I cant take my foot off the brake without it launching. Ive heard at a light in idle the car is supposed to almost want to sit on its own.
Tomorrow I'm gonna dig into the electrical side with the switches on the trottle, but can someone describe what it feels like driving. when it hits high gear do you feel the converter switch when you get off the throttle? Is the RPM drop at idle a bit much?? cars running great otherwise.
-
did a small local cruise in last night. First public showing a lot of great compliments
-
5
-
-
I got home today, disconnected all the wires from the horn relay and the alternator battery terminal. I reconnected enough to get the car started, and then applied 12 volts to the field wire and measured the output at the battery terminal.....12.8 volts. So I removed the alternator, took it to a parts store who tested it, it passed. I stopped by a second, they tested it, it passed. So I went home, installed it, unbolted all the wires from the horn relay and bolted them together on their own. started the car and I have 13.8 volts. I bolted it back up to the horn relay expected it to fail.....it didnt...13.8 volts I reconnect everything as it was an hour earlier and failing....its charging 13.8 volts.
I flippin hate electrical work. Will check it again tomorrow when I get home. I need to tweak trans cooler lines at the radiator and then my wife and I might actually go out to a local cruise in in the Riv for a first showing.
-
I ordered an internally regulated alternator. I rewired the battery terminal for the 'sensing' side of the alternator. I traced back abit and spliced the white wire and brown wires together. The new connector for the alternator has a white wire for he idiot light, so I chose that one. The light works correctly, unless its not.
I checked my battery voltage before I started and it was 12.6-12.7 I started the car and it dropped to 12.5. I decided I have had enough of garage time with this car....I took it out on the road to see if maybe the load would 'open her up' and make the system kick in. When I got home after about 8 miles of driving (which she did just fine with) I checked the voltage at the battery and it was still 12.5. I never got a light.
I decided to check for voltage at the battery terminal at the horn relay and it kept fluctuating. SInce that is the spot I hooked up the 'feedback' line for the alternator, I wonder if thats my problem and should go right to the battery. No fuses are blown, all systems operate like they should. Brake lights, turn signals radio, AC fan.
Not sure what to do next. Or am I good and just being too picky for how high the voltage should be.
-
Those tabs look really thin. I bet they are the original wheel cylinders
cykinders are easy just be careful not to round out the fittings for the brake like into the cylinder in the back. If you are doing one do them all and depending on how worn your shoes are replace them too since ya got it apart. Especially the one in the front that go wet
-
I ordered a 73 Corvette Alternator. It fits the stock mounts, is similar in appearance and just slightly more amps than the stock one. Since I need to rewire it for the internal regulator I am going to strip out the External reg wiring and install fresh wiring for the new alternator. So its as clean as possible and removed all chances of any bad wiring in the charging system
-
I used the MSD ready to run distributor in mine. Quick install just stops in place of the factory one. The only thing is you need to change your ignition power from a resisted 10 volts to 12 otherwise it doesn't work
. Most guys wire in a relay or you can remove the factory resistance wire like I did and make it 12 volts off the switch
-
2 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:
That damage to the regulators indicates a short to ground on a power circuit. I would trace all the wiring that has to
do with the charging system and look for a wire rubbed through the insulation that is touching a ground.
That was my thinking after the last burnt regulator. I went pin to ou and every connector for the alternator and all battery connections. No shorts to ground and good resistance through the wires. All terminals are brand new
-
Are you at the bottom of the hinge adjustment holes? The hood hinges are slotted at the bolt holes, might just need to slide it down a touch
-
You don't have the cowl installed, I bet your fender is too far down. The cowl has no adjustments to it, so its the baseline for everything at the base of the windshield
Who Currently Makes The Best Current Weatherstrip Kit?
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I ordered my stuff from Rubber the right way, it all fit awesome.
www.rubbertherightway.com