alini
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Posts posted by alini
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They obvioulsy watched alot of Gas Monkey or Chasing Classic Cars and feel they can make a quick buck if they havent owned it long. The listed auction has a reserve not met , so no idea what he is looking for as price
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1 hour ago, onedesertdog said:
My repro reads 3/4 when full also........but that's 3/4 more than it read before, lol
Mine too, but like he said it didnt read anything before....so Im better off. I did Ohms check mine and it did read 0-90. I think its more a problem of the bending of the armature, so when the float is all the way up the arm doesnt have the resistor at 90. Ive debated about bending it to get better readings.
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You can easily check the sending unit with it in the car. Disconnect the wire going to it, the disconnect is behind the license plate. Hook up your meter checking for Ohms between the wiring going to the tank and the body. Based off the amount of fuel in the tank you will see anywhere from 0-90 ohms, the higher the fuel the higher the resistance. You can actually use a long thin rod and with a flashlight see the probe in the tank and use the rod to move it up and down.
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I had to swap out mine, I installed a 63-64 by mistake. We were able to loosen the muffler connections and swing the muffler out of the way without removing it and then dropping the tank. I did it with a floor jack and about 1/4 tank of gas. I did have a helper. Took me about an hour and half.
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There is no trunk access on a 65, you have to drop the tank
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That is the basic repair, some of us have plugged the holes in the intake so the exhaust gases dont flow through the channel. Replacing the plate fixes the problem but in a few years it will get eaten away again.
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agreed, I never found a replacement for it or the unit unless you buy a used one.
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I would follow Tom's suggestion and rebuild it. Your contacts are corroded, sand them up or replace the wires themselves
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The socket is not intended to come out. The replacement you have in the pic is going to require you to cut out the socket in the lamp and then insert it from the back. I had one of those installed in mine, I went and found a better correct socketed lamp off Ebay,
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On 12/22/2016 at 7:15 AM, Imperial62 said:
Not sure why hog rings are so hard to install.
I purchased a cheap $5 pair of hog ring pliers off ebay and didnt have a single problem installing them.....it was removing them I had problems with I went thru two pairs of diagonal cutters cutting all mine off.
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The one in my car is a 40amp, It was good when I got the car and I assume its correct. I cant find anything data in the service manual or owners manual about it.
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It's not hard. Of
you can replace a pillow case
you can recover a seat
well almost.
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I did the whole process, I even cut my own foam. Get yourself a set of NEW diagonal cutters to remove the old hog rings with, trust me, a new pair will make it so much easier. buy hog rings and a set of pliers for installing.
When removing the old material make sure to save the wires that are in the cover, cut only the rings to remove it. The old wires need to get fed into the channels of the new covers.
Break the seat down to each pad, do one pad at a time and just clip them back the way you took them apart.
Are you reusing your current foam or replacing, and with what??
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Happens to almost every Riv, doesnt affect performance but you can chase down the parts and replace it or get it welded. I have one of mine with and one without you cant tell the difference from the outside
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So before I get called out again...yes mine is listed on craigslist here in Vegas. I have the ad up to $30K but very reasonable. Im following my plan, which was to rebuild it and sell it. Everyone tried telling me I should enjoy the car but I cant. Every turn of the key all I do is overthink everything and I look at my flaws. I brought it back from the grave, now someone else can have fun with it.
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Whats funny is its in the middle of the rear seats. The only thing I can figure is it is a dip in the pan for the rear seat frame and the channel isnt very wide so they just put a hole instead of the larger block off plates. The rear seat frame is visible through the hole from below and very close. When I took the car apart I believe there was seam sealer over them as well. I can inject some from below to fill the gap and stop the tick
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I have been doing some family / automotive research and found my ancestors made coachworks under either Cole & Woop or William Woop Co names. We supplied bodies for Pierce Arrows as well as Simplex / Smith & Mabley automobiles.
Ive made contact with the Pierce Arrow Society, but looking for info about some Simplex cars. I know the Pierce cars have body tags which call out the coachwork manufacturers. I also have alot of references from period books (1905-1915) that state use of many supplies to Simplex for their cars.
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I found the source of my tick today. There are two small 1/4 inch drain holes, one under each back seat. The exhaust pressure under the car was pushing air through those holes and it sounded like a tick. The holes are right above the resonator. With the exhaust tips being tucked under too close the exhaust gases were recirculating under the car and the pulses of air were the cause of the noise.
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I already know it's the position of my tailpipes. I did a lot of city driving and the exhaust fumes built up under the car at the traffic lights and up into the open windows. The ticking is exhaust rattling the bottom of the car. Since I never got a pic I repositioned the tips lower and it's fixed the problem. I wanted a picture for reference to know how far down they should hang and was concerned about the bends with the waldrons exhaust to make sure it ended in the right spot
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Opinions? Does a 455 belong in a 1965 and be called a restoration. I refer to my car as a rebuild. To me a restoration is original specs
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5 hours ago, PWB said:
Now that's a feat! That deck is good enough for a waxing. Impressive.
How much for the dart board?
No true garage is complete without a dart board
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On 12/8/2016 at 7:31 AM, 60FlatTop said:
So, just to get it straight, you bought the 50 year old car, but didn't feel delusional until AFTER you took it apart and priced the components?
Here's the beginning of mine. I have no idea of how much I spent. That was a little over 20 years ago and it started by tidying up the wiring harness.
I wish I had your space.....I did my entire rebuild in a two car garage and my kitchen table
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No the pressure relief valve in the front pump stuck. So the trans had no line pressure
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Every part I ever bought for the car was from oldbuickparts.com or the local parts store.
I did get all the rubber seals for the body from rubbertherightway.com
I got the springs from coilspringspecialties.com
All my core engine pieces (pistons, cam, lifters, etc) from Summit
All my interior pieces are from Clarks corvair
and the exhaust was from Waldron's Exhaust.
I also did all my own body work, all those supplies...filler, primer, paint and clear came from Eastwood.com This included the paint I used on the frame and underbody
well almost.
63 Riviera Dynaflow rebuild DIY
in Buick Riviera
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The service manual is very easy to follow for rebuild instructions. The problem is you wont know what you need until you break into it.
The easiest way to do an automatic transmission, remove the converter, lay it on the bench. Then removing one component at a time, front pump first, stack them on to the converter as you remove them. They way everything stays in order. Inspect all seals , bushings and springs as you go. Make note if specific parts you may need. When you order the rebuild kit make sure those parts are included. Most rebuild kits do NOT include bushings of any sort, just basic seals and clutch/steels.
The torque converter should be fine, no need to replace unless you had problems with it.
I didnt rebuild my trans, its the only thing I didnt do. I tore it down and found all the bushings bad and felt it better to let a pro deal with it because there are so many different variations, sizes and applications i didnt want to order the wrong stuff.