trickrk

They are going to be in the face of the torque convertor, near the outer edge. You may have a hard time seeing them because the oil pan will block your view. I belive they are a 7/16 plug. There will be two total . You will have to rotate the fly wheel to get to the opposite plug. Mine were hard to break loose I could only get a 1/4" drive ratchet to fit on it so I had to use a pipe on the ratchet for leverage.

Looks like the rubber seal is falling off of the retainer. I am betting it is a CARS replacement, very poor parts reviews from people on this site. Order a new kit from Bobs or Fatsco

Hey guys, I am replacing my dynaflow transmission cooler. I am tring to find the direction of flow for the two trans lines (incoming, outgoing. Any one have any information? Thanks, Rick

Thanks Leif for the torque specifications

Thanks again Bob, that is what I will do.

Thanks Bob, I am trying to avoid cracking the flanges. I am not sure if they are cast or not so I am trying to be carefull. Thanks for the hardware tip. I am using brass nuts and anti seize.

Any one?

what is the preferred way to tighten the exhaust flange nuts that connect the cross over pipe to the manifolds. I am guessing you do NOT just crank them all the way down tight. This is on my 53 super

I used synthetic bearing grease becauce that is what I had on hand. I think the grease helps with the assembly process. Maybe some one else can say for sure but I think that once in use it will be lubed by the transmission fluid.

There are 3 remaining shims and I installed all of them according to the directions at the torque ball retainer. It is must need additional shims that I can order from Bob's, looks like a four piece kit.

Ok having a problem. I installed the new Fatsco torque ball retainer, greassed the retainer and ball with sythetic grease, installed all the shims and tightened by hand with a 3/8 ratchet, I moved the torque ball periodicly while tightening. By the time I get all the bolts tightend the torque ball is so tight that it will not move even with a pipe in the end of the torque ball for leverage. Do I need more shims? Should I use a different grease? I can't find any info for a torque ball being to tight, only to loose. Any suggestions?:confused:

Looks like the original 1953 seal is still on the shaft. The seal that you are holding in your hand looks like a replacement seal, but I cant figure out where it could have been installed at. There should not be a seal that I am aware of other than the shaft seal.

Mike, Thank you for the tip. I will look in to that for sure. Rick

Willie, What can be done if there is a groove in the sleeve? Is there a replacement sleeve available?

Oh yeah, what he said!!!

Also make sure you don't have rear end to low. Try jacking it up a little to get it even. If it is to low it might bind. Might just need to find the sweet spot on the hight.

Will, Are the tires on the ground or do you have the axle housing jacked up with a floor jack? Tires should be off the ground. I had some one pull back on the floor jack while I seperated it from the flange, then it slide back with no problem.

Thanks for the info.

Are 55 and 57 T-Bird frames interchangeable? Thanks ,Rick

Thanks Willie!!

Thanks Willie, The 53 manual is not quite clear and makes it sound as you should assemble it on the car. What is your thought on priming the pump?

My 53 322/Dynaflow was no problem. Hardest part was getting the crappy after market trans mount to fit.

Hello anyone!:confused:

Hey one other question. The manual is not clear to me on this. It sounds like it says to assemble the pump together on the car, in reverse order of disassembly. It seems to me that you would assemble the pump and then install it on the car. Should I prime the pump in a container of oil before installing or install, remove the distributor and prime with a long screw driver method? Rick

Will look for some locally. Does not price cheap in the Permatex so I think I will use the Loctite brand as shown by Mudbone. Thanks guys