Studenut1915

i was wondering if someone may have some of these or maybe this pictures can help. someone identify unknown parts. Up until series 17 this blocks where round on the not square. The series 17 models switched to the new square blocks blocks as per the pictures part # 18975 (block) and 18977(block bushing). This appears to be a two part block?? It’s used with a new shaft # 18974. The shaft is .081 x 2.50 long

Thanks. I found some good information. There is mixed opinion on whether to install the leather smooth or rough side out.

i about to replace the leather in the cone clutch in my 15 sd4 and rebuild my drive shaft, I'm sure this has been done before and would like to hear from anyone that can offer some offer some tipss or suggestions

I need a muffler for my 1915 Studebaker SD4. Im located in Alberta. any suggestions fro a supplier ? Canada or the US

Thanks for all the input. this is a car I may own shortly The engine number isFE-13048, which is a correctnumber for a '29-30 President. It's about half way into thenumber range. The serial number iscorrect for 1930 FH Eight (125" wb). about 850 into the 1930 range.

Sorry I meant the President Speedway

Thanks. would you know if it is from a 33 would the intake fit on the skyway 336 or does it also fit a 250?

Is s this a 29 president state? I thought it should be a down draft.

Sorry about not getting back to you sooner. I was out of town for a few days and have been playing catch up since. Thanks for all the advice. the bearing reference was great and will come in valuable in the future. I have left a message and faxed Olcar with no response, perhaps he is at a swap meet or just away. I have sourced bearings that will work with a little polishing. They will require a spacer that will ride on the inside 1/3 of the thrust bearing. The bearing loads for the road shock should be much less that that created by the roads a hundred years ago so I do not believe that should be a problem. Your comments are welcome. Again thanks for the support. I will let you know how I make out.

Private message sent. Let me know if you didn't get it.

I have my steering box apart in my 1915 SD4. The worm thrust bearing cone and and cups are unusable. There is no numbers on the pieces the parts book shows the cup as 10875 and the cone as 10876. two of each are required. The ball bearing are locally available. Would anybody have anything going back this far or do I have to get creative?

Mark Soholt knows of of a 1914 coupe near his home in Alamo N.D. He said it was fairly complete. You would probably be the only one with one if you were to restore it. I can send you his number or you can check old turning wheels and review adds. iIhave a 17 body complete from the cowl back an may end up with a 14 an 15 this summer, both mostly complete 4 cylinder cars. I also have roof bows for a 13 that could be the same as a 14. they need work but would be a good starting place. Good luck with your project

Thanks. Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. i appriceate you checking for me. No rush on my end take care Pat

The truck drum/ hub asembly will bolt right on. All the truck backing plates will bolt on as well and the later ones are a great improvement. these brake work muck better and are easier to adjust. The 63/64 truck bracks are self centering with star wheel adjustments are like adding power brakes compaired to good working 40 brakes. The only modifiction would be to the to the emergency brake cable. I have added daul master cylinders from eary 70s ford pickups to both my cars, modifactions required to the brake lines only. The pedal pressure is reduced greatly and you have the dual master safty. I drive my cars lots and like to keep my family safe. Pat Mckenna

Thanks Terry. I plasticgauged the rod babbits at about .0025 so I should be good for now. i have some 25/ 26 Commander parts not sure if anything will fit your dictatror. Take care

Hi Guys What should the rod babbit clearance be for my 1915 SD4

Hi Guys I'm looking for a steering knuckle contol arm fo my 40 commander. The part number is 193987 it is for the right side (passenger). Mine is badly rusted wher the the bushing attach, rebuidalbe but I would perfer a nice one.

Thanks Jason. I was doeing my test right off the geneator with the battery not connected. With the battery connected m readings are now in the range you suggested. My wiring is a mess and auto electrical is not one of my strong points. I learned something new today. againn thanks.

Hi Guys my generator seams to be over charing. Any sggestions would be appriciated. At and idle I have 2 to 3 volts, at 1000 rpm about 8 volts, at 1500 rpm 17 to 18 volts. The amps will go past 20 at 1500 rpm . The owners manuual says 7 volts at 10 mph and amps should reach 15 amps at some engine speed but should not exceed 15 amps. I have moved the third brush but it only mde about 2 volts difference at each end of the range at 1500 rpm.

I came across a frame with front fenders axls and misc bits and peices i think late 20's. the serial number is 2052655. can some please let me know what it is exactly. Thanks

thanks for the help guys. we have the problem sorted out. The existing motor needed to be wired properly. I had a simailar issue with the grease in my 40 Commander. Cleaing out the old grease and adding new was all it took to make tate one opertional again.

I have a freind in need of a 39 commander wiper motor so he can pass inspection to drive his car. can anyone help? body parts books say for 9A(commander) aor 5C (pres) part #270426 Thanks Pat

Im looking for a neelde, float and flort arm asembly for the Schebler on my 1915 SD4. does anyone know who might have these or a rebuild kit? Thanks

Thanks for the previous illustrations and replies The shaft Im looking for is 18927 The trunions are 12179 x2 <o:p> </o:p> The trunion listed in the parts book have a round perimeter. I am looking for ones with a sq are perimeter. Then may be from a later model or aftermarket <o:p> </o:p> |I have a 1915 SD that I installed rear universal joint body, shaft and square trunions from a 1917 6 parts car that I have. <o:p> </o:p> The area that rides in the round center shaft is worn but the outside of the trunions and the universal joint body were not worn. The sq trunions provide more surface area on the universal joint body, reducing the wear. My car runs along nicely at 35 to 40 mph with no driveline vibration. I if I can not fund better ones I will have some made on a cnc, let me know is there is any interest. <o:p> </o:p> The parts car I have I think is a 1917. It has ½ rear upper springs, wood dash, tank in rear, brake shafts that attach to the transaxle and rear hub caps that cover the whole axle flange. The car has frame, transaxle, body from the cowl back, four rough fenders, gas tank, top bow heafy hardwre and body pivot brackets, right wind shield post, aprons, jump seat bottoms, etc. I can draw the aprons for you to have new ones made if they are design as the roadster. I have a drawing for 1915 sd4 touring aprons if any one is interested. <o:p> </o:p> I also have a frame, trans axle, steering box frame brackets etc for a 1913 6. Also a bonnet but I believe it is different than the 17 <o:p> </o:p> If anyone is thinking to trying to drive a transaxle car I strongly advise you adjust the transaxle before doing so. The unit comes out of the housing in one piece and is easily adjusted on your bench. The manual explains everything clearly. <o:p> </o:p> My care is unrestored and last run and put in storage about 1950, repainted in the 30s original wood and leather. I made it mobile and tried to drive it but could not shift from 1st to 2nd . After adjusting the Transaxle I ca now easily do the ½ shift as well as downshift into 2nd with now noise. I have driven about 800 miles since the adjustments and it is a pleasure to drive. <o:p> </o:p> I believe all the transaxle horror stories are from do lack of service, the 4 hours is well spent time. <o:p> </o:p> Chis , you ca contact me direct about the aprons patm@managen.com