1wonton

There's a possibility that if the oil pump was taken apart the two valves or springs were not re-installed correctly. One spring is longer than the other and one valve has a small hole in it, the other does not.

I found some Ideal Combo-Hex clamps which are similar to what I was looking for. The collar prevents the screwdriver from slipping off the head, a very good design.

Thanks everyone but still looking for better hose clamps. There used to be clamps that had an encirclement around the slot so that your screwdriver was securely located within. The screwdirver wouldn't slip off to the side when approaching at a less than 90 degree angle. Most of the clamps I find today are cheaply made of thinner material and are barely adequate for the job. Yes, I know of the t-slot and hex-head types but just looking for a better slotted type clamp. America is now not the country I grew up in.

Yes, I agree but more often than not one would not have an appropriate socket and extension while do work while on the road. A screwdriver is usually handy and I was wondering if people here had knowledge of a better type of hose clamp than the usual cheaply constructed clamps now available.

Most hose clamps I find today have a wedge-shaped slot for the screwdriver and are kind of difficult to keep the screwdriver in place. I used to see clamps with a slot enclosed with a little ring, keeping the slotted scredriver in place. Anyone know of or suggest another type of hose clamp that makes it easier to keep the driver in place when tightening? ron

Unfortunately, I am still unable to figure out how to re-assemble my oil pump. There are two plungers and two springs; One of the plungers ahs two grooves and the other has a small hole. The two springs are different length. Does any one have one of these Model 90 oil pumps apart so that I can understand which spring and which plunger goes where? ron

Yes, I believe that was their motivation. I've called three times and spoke to "John" who asked me to send pictures of the damage and the shipping box, which I did. He said he would call me right back, which of course he never did. I called again today and asked to speak with the owner who "John" said was out of town until next Monday and that he would deliver my message. "John" said this was not their problem and blamed UPS for the damage. I explained it was their duty to return my radiator in the same condition it was in when I sent it. If they had only used the secure packing I used to send it it would have arrived back in good shape. Instead they just threw it a thin cardboard box with three small loose chunks of broken foam. The radiator was flopping around in the box when I received it, one side of the frame was bent and the filler tube at the top (and radiator cap) was jammed down into the crushed upper tank. No padding or protection of any kind was used to secure the radiator or protect the top. Although the cardboard did not look damaged it looked like the radiator had been dropped from some height, enough to drive the filler tube about 2' below the outer frame. Their website extolls the care and experience they have in restoring all types of radiators including classic cars. This is not an old beat up car but a recognized classic and we are doing a complete restoration on it. If I could find another radiator then we could work with that, otherwise what to do?

Quoted me at "least $4500". I can have the same work done in England( including shipping) for less than half that and in less time.

I sent my radiator to an advertised Honeycomb radiator company in New York after they said they could repair it. They then tried to gouge me for a complete radiator re-core. I asked them to send it back and they put it in a flimsy cardboard box with no protection. When I received the radiator, it had been dropped on the upper tank, smashing it beyond repair. They are trying to avoid taking any responsibility for this and are ignoring my calls. If they continue to hide I will reveal the name of this company. I do not intend to let them just get away with this but meanwhile I'm looking for a replacement.

In need of '31 Buick radiator for model 90, 3" core.

My '31 model 8-94 has a chassis number 2530053, eng number 2708593 which would seem to indicate a car built later in the year. Tha car has single bar bumpers, front and rear.

Thanks Dave, seems like your car is an earlier production, maybe the two-bar bumper came out later in the year.

Curious about bumpers used in 1931; when did the single bar bumper change to the two piece bumper (or vids-versa)? ron

Thanks very much guys, this should be enough for me to get this back together. ron

Thanks Robert, appreciate the help. ron

Thanks Jim; The 1931-'35 80 and 90 engines used an oil cooler and are different from any other engine. I have this one apart and there are a couple of little plungers and springs that control the oil pressure, I just don't know which one goes where. If I had another one I could take it apart or if I can see a diagram that would work.

Does anyone have a diagram or picture of the Mod 90 oil pump? I have one apart and not sure how to put it back together................... ron

Good ideas, I suppose one could machine an insert and press or glue it in place, lot of hand work filing the grooves.

Any suggestions as to how (if possible) to restored stripped indentations inside a pot metal door handle typical of early GM cars?

Thanks Mark, I'll give him a call.

Thanks, I did that. They don't have anything and too long, too expensive to make the parts.

Brake cleaner, MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner will do almost nothing to dissolve the old varnish, don't waste your time. To clean your tank or other parts dissolve a couple cups of regular lye in a few gallons of water and pour that into your tank. Don't use any kind of acid as that eat at your metal. The lye won't attack the metal. The heat generated and the etching action of the lye water will clean up your tank amazingly well. You might want to do this again, maybe let it set overnight. I spent years trying to clean up old tanks; nothing works nearly as well as this. Old time car manuals told you how to adjust the valves on your car, today they tell you don't drink the battery acid; we've come a long way.......backwards.

Where can I find new valves and pistons for the 1931 Model 90? I understand the big engine used parts that were the same for many years. ron

I found it.