marbeton
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Posts posted by marbeton
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Thanks, you confirmed that my body was actually made directly by Chrysler. In the 1920´s, all bodies were still made with a wooden frame and steel plating. By the 1930´s, they were all steel. That's your car, too.-
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Thanks for the help, but my car was built in September 1925, it has a two-piece windshield, if the body was from Fisher body, then it should have their datatag and order number. It's not with me and there are no traces of any other datatag. I read somewhere that at the beginning of production, Chrysler may have done some bodywork itself, but I'm not sure. -
For my 1925 Chrysler four touring, I don't know who the bodybuilder was. I didn't even find a label. Does anyone know who made the touring bodywork and how they were marked? Thank marbeton -
OK,
thank you very much.
Richard
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18 minutes ago, edinmass said:
Interesting thread. In the past 5 years, I am experiencing old coil failure at rates twenty times of the days gone bye. So much so, I will no longer use any old coils. They just seem to be timing out. It's probably worth the effort to secure a few modern units, and go through the pain of making them install and look correctly. Doing a few is easier than just one...........
Yes, you're right, but if I want to have the car in its original and original condition, as it went out of production, it's better to risk the original part, even if there will be problems. -
51 minutes ago, Peter R. said:
There are only two 284-S and a 287-A. Sorry, I can't help you with a 284-P.
I suggest you keep your old coil and have it rewound.
Yes, I will. I have it carefully disassembled, so it probably shouldn't be a problem to put it back together, but without that capacitor. It's already in the manifold. -
22 minutes ago, Peter R. said:
284-S was used on 1923-27 Studebakers, by the way.
I would need a 284-P without a condenser. Do you have one? And how much would it cost? -
10 hours ago, Peter R. said:
Brown & Caine was an after market coil manufacturer who made replacement coils for Remy, Delco and others. I have a Brown & Caine application chart somewhere. Be careful when you buy old Remy coils. Some of them have built-in condensers. They may have worked back in the days but today they are bad.
I think I have some old Remy and B & C coils in stock. Let me check.....
So this was probably my problem. When I disassembled the malfunctioning B&C coil, there was a condenser. I will probably need a coil 284-P without a condenser.Your catalogs are perfect. They helped me a lot. In the Czech Republic, there is not much opportunity to get something like this, or find out about old American cars.Thank you for help. -
10 hours ago, Peter R. said:
Richard,
Your Chrysler was factory equipped with a Remy # 284-P coil. As a replacement Remy offered a universal coil # 284-K. It came with a number of different brackets and replaced most early Remy coils. Check your coil, the part number should be stamed onto the coil housing (e.g. 284-P).
Peter,
thanks for the information I didn´t have. They helped me a lot. I found out that my car had a Brown&Caine coil, but it was the same as the original in your picture. Unfortunately, it is now non-functional, so for now I have modern replacement, which I redesigned into an old design.
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1 hour ago, ArticiferTom said:
It 's unfortunate that they did not put number on them . Would like to know what one I have , to trade .
In the Chrysler Master Parts List is like an ignition coil position for type F, Part No.37914, but there is no manufacturer of that coil, so I don't know what is right for my car. -
9 hours ago, Peter R. said:
1931 and 1932 coils were different. What model and year Chrysler do you have?
1931 used 1835839
1932 used 1843129
My car is 1925 Chrysler four ( 58) touring, built in September 1925. I found out according to FEDCO.
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58 minutes ago, mobileparts said:
Hershey is around the corner, for you, luckily, Hope you are planning to attend....
Your best bet to find one....if you are still searching....
I live in Europe, this is not possible in the current Covid-19 situation.☹️
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On 8/3/2021 at 1:15 AM, DeSoto701 said:
I checked all my coils, sorry don't have the correct coil for you.
Don´t happen to have this functional ignition coil 6 Volt for 1925 Chrysler 58?
Regards
marbeton
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Thanks for the help. I'm glad to know the exact designation of the two gears. If you have them and you would sell them to me, it would be more advantageous for me, because I am from the Czech Republic and buying from the USA is more complicated and more expensive for fees than from Europe. Would it be possible? And what would be the price? -
I found out that I probably have bad gears in the distributor. Drive gear is correct, but follower gear is the same. I think the folower gear should have a longer attachment. The radius and number of teeth must be the same. I found a lot of similar ones on ebay, but for newer cars. Not sure about someone who should drive and folower gears for a 1925 Chrysler 58 with a DELCO 634-A distributor?
It should look something like the DG-1045 in the picture. I have both gear shorter there, something like type DG-1023. I just don't know if this image is for my distributor
Thanks for the help.
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I also can't believe it, but since I adjusted the valves, the temperature has been fine. The old, experienced mechanics justified this to me by saying that this can happen with SV distributions, because the cylinders do not wash well. -
I think a miracle happened. I adjusted the valves and the engine began to cool. 😀😀 This means that my radiator is OK and there was an error in adjusting the valves. The cylinders were probably badly rinsed and the mixture burned more than it should.Otherwise I can't justify it. I didn't do anything else with the engine, so that must have been the cause.-
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Just a word of caution.
Antique cooling systems did not run a pressurised system, if you are having the radiator cleaned, make sure the repair shop you take it to know about antique radiators.
Vintage radiators should be tested for leaks with no more than about 2 PSI pressure, if they test them using 15 to 20 PSI, as they do with modern radiators, it will most likely destroy the core.
Viv.
- Members
Just a word of caution.
Antique cooling systems did not run a pressurised system, if you are having the radiator cleaned, make sure the repair shop you take it to know about antique radiators.
Vintage radiators should be tested for leaks with no more than about 2 PSI pressure, if they test them using 15 to 20 PSI, as they do with modern radiators, it will most likely destroy the core.
Viv.
Yes you're right. I had the cooler cleaned in a professional workshop, which, in addition to modern, repairs radiators for oldtimer as well. This pressurization is there only to detect liquid leakage or radiator permeability.marbeton
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If your temperature fluctuates after a short drive, it will be: 1)Thermostat. Try to disassemble it, test in a container with hot water and a thermometer to measure when it opens and when it closes. 2)Water pump you have to disassemble and check
3)The radiator may be clogged You have to clean it and test it by pressurizing. If that doesn't help, it has to be replaced. I have to do that with my car now.☹️
5)If you don't lose water from the radiator, the seal under your cylinderhead is OKSpar plugs equivalent can you find here: -
I'm looking for 1930 Plymouth 30U interior door handles and crank handles. I would also need eskutcheons. The correct types are in the photos. Thank you for your help.marbeton
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8 hours ago, Max4Me said:
This is interesting. As I noted before, my car was built in Canada, after Chrysler bought out Maxwell Motors but before everything was nameplated 'Chrysler.' My car has (is!) somewhat of a mystery. Your car has a FEDCO plate on the dash, mine only has a "Maxwell/Chrysler" serial # tag on the firewall inside the engine compartment. Your manual on p. 55, 'SPECIFICATIONS' clearly lists a Stewart carb with Zenith for export. My 'SPECIFICATIONS' page is p. 61 and only says, 'Vertical type, adjustable.' My manual is a second edition, August, 1925, published by The Chrysler Corporation of Canada, Ltd.,Windsor, Canada. Therefore, I have to conclude that your car was built in America, and mine, having a Maxwell plate, a different manual, a Zenith carb and built in Canada, had to be considered and "export." What has this to do with your cooling problem? Beats me!🤨 I just found the different manuals of interest and thought I'd share the oddities with you. I sincerely hope you get it solved. I really enjoy driving mine and want you to be able to do the same with yours.
My Instruction Book is for cars according to No. F-1001 up made in Detroit. According to FEDCO, my car was actually made in Detroit in September 1925. The numbering for cars made in Canada was different. I am also sending you a table with the serial numbers and places of production. I used to get it here on the forum. Our cars should be basically the same, only with small deviations according to the year and place of production. But the main thing is definitely the same. It should be nice with us today, so I'm getting ready for a little test drive. I'm going up a long, long hill to see what it does. I mounted a thermometer there (I made a replica of a Boycé motometer with a mounting on the steering wheel) so I can monitor it continuously. So I'll see what it does.
marbeton
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3 hours ago, C Carl said:
The octane police are on shift change, but are kind enough to issue a correction anyway. Octane in the mid ‘20s was in the mid 40s. And yes, indeed, a low compression engine cannot extract all the BTUs from too high octane fuel. Therefore the EGT is too high, you can burn your exhaust valves also. We learned this in flight engineers school 55 years ago. There were still some recip’s making money back then, so we learned a bit about them. Were taught not to take on any more too high octane fuel than needed at an intermediate airport refueling stop if the proper lower octane was not available. Could burn the exhaust valves. I wish I could afford a DC-6 to play with. 72 cylinders, 11,200 cubic inches to keep you busy. - Carl72 cylinders, 11,200 cubic inches, ooh it must be a wonderful sound.
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8 hours ago, Max4Me said:
Hello, Marbeton,
Here's some followup information for you. I took the car for about a 15-20 minute drive (83 degree F air temp, 23 C) and then checked the water temperature. I used a digital probe thermometer and an infrared thermometer. They read slightly off from each other but not significantly (just a degree or two Fahrenheit), so I'm giving you the average of the two. At the fill opening with cap off, the temp of the water is 183 degrees F (84 C). On the outside of the upper return fitting on the radiator inside the engine compartment the temp is 171 degrees F (77 C). Interesting that there would be such a difference. I did not check the temp at the fitting at the bottom of the radiator, but will be glad to if this helps. One interesting thing that I never noticed is that the fan blows air forward through the radiator and not back toward the engine. Not sure what to think of that. I may try reversing the fan blade and see what happens. I have Champion W 14 spark plugs which are exact replacements for the AC 78s plugs you have so I don't believe that's an issue. I have a Zenith carburetor on mine. In one of the manuals I have (darn if I can locate the info right now) it lists the carburetors on the 1925 Four as Ball and Ball, Stromberg and Zenith. Though interestingly enough, the owner's manual illustrates and gives adjustment info on a Stewart, even though it does not specifically name it. Go figure.
Beautiful car you have. Mine is not nearly as finished so I doubt I can send pix that would be of any help to you. I 'rescued' it from a gentlemen whose grandchildren wanted to chop it into a street rod. It's a popular thing here in Southern California (and maybe else where) because the pollution controls required are based on the VIN/serial number of the car, NOT the engine. Hence people put a heavily modified big block engine in old cars and don't have to meet any smog requirements.
VIV has much more experience than I so that is a voice to which I would pay heed. Best wishes and good luck with your troubleshooting.
Marbeton,
P.S., in my original post I stated I'd read people in that era put lead additives in their cars to prevent pinging. It is true that I read that at least twice, and having not lived in the 20's, I can't personally swear to this. However, in retrospect, l even with 60-70 octane rating back then, I can't believe an engine with such low compression would have trouble with pinging. But again, I wasn't there.😬
Hi Max4Me,
Thank you for your help. Our temperatures are now about 10-15 ° C, so I don't have a problem yet. The engine only overheats when the outside temperature is above 20 ° C. So I'll measure it later and see the difference from your measurement. I have an infrared thermometer and I measure it with that. I usually had about 98-99 ° C on the upper inner side of the cooler. I didn't measure it below, but I'll try to do it when the temperature outside is higher again. The fact that your fan is blowing forward through the radiator is probably wrong. It must suck air through the boiler and push it around the engine through the ventilation openings in the hood. Don't you have a fan mounted upside down? Look at photos of other engines to see if they have it just like you. According to the operating instructions, there should be a Stewart carburetor, Zenith was installed for export only. I am sending you a picture of the page from the instructions where it is written. We have to put the lead additive there because the lead lubricates the valve seats. This is not possible in unleaded petrol and the valve seats would break out.
marbeton
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9 hours ago, viv w said:
Hi Marbeton,
First thing, the picture of your exhaust manifold shows what looks like a hair line crack on the left side of the opening, this crack needs to be welded or the manifold replaced.
Secondly, the gasket that goes between your exhaust and inlet manifolds, I seem to recall it just went around the edge of that hole.
When replacing the above gasket, it is critical that the correct thickness of material is used, and once you have replaced that gasket make absolutely sure that all the exhaust and inlet ports are an even height before bolting it up to the block. Failure to do this will result in either cracking one or both manifolds or sucking air into the block. If you are not sure, then bolt the 2 manifolds together with a new gasket and ask a competent machine shop to make sure they are level, they may have to grind them, the same way they would skim a head or block.
Viv.
Hi Viv,
the exhaust manifold in the picture is old, which I had to replace with another one. So that I don't have to disassemble the new one from the engine, I took a picture of the old one for illustration. When I put it together, I leveled the seal so that the exhaust and intake manifolds were level. So in your opinion, the seal between the intake and exhaust manifolds should only be along the edge, and so the exhaust gases preheat the gasoline mixture in the intake manifold. That's how I did it. So there probably won't be a problem here. I have to keep looking.
Thanks
marbeton
1925 Chrysler four touring body
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
viv w, thanks for the help. I didn't find any body number on my car, so I guess it was probably made by Chrysler, because Fisher put the numbers there.Is it possible?