marbeton
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Posts posted by marbeton
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I'm still thinking about how to prevent it from overheating. Now I had another option. There must be a seal between the intake and exhaust manifold. There is an opening in the exhaust manifold where the exhaust gases go directly to the intake manifold and thus also heat the petrol mixture into the engine. Should there be a seal to prevent that direct heating, ie full, or has the manufacturer already anticipated this, and should there be a seal only around the perimeter? When I disassembled the engine, there were only some rests of the seal, from which it was impossible to tell what it originally looked like. So I put the seal there only around the perimeter. The photos show the exhaust manifold with the hole and also two variants of the seal, which I made. Don't know what's right? And how do you have it with your cars, for example.
Thanks
marbeton
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Hi Viv,
thank you for your experience. I have new spark plugs type AC 78S. You should be right for my type.
The manifold cover is new, as is the exhaust and intake manifold seals. But the fact is that the intake manifold that is bolted to the exhaust is always very hot. I put a heat-resistant pad between the intake and exhaust pipes (some were there, but they didn't last). So maybe the problem could be here too.
I adjusted the ignition advance by listening, because I now use petrol with an octane number of 95 (in our country it has the lowest octane number and I have to add a special lead supplement, because the current petrol is unleaded) and then it was in Year 1925 about 65. Therefore the advance value given by the manufacturer must be today's petrol smaller. So a smaller lead value.
I have an original Stewart carburetor. There could probably be a problem as well. Unfortunately, I don't have any documents from him, so I don't really know how to properly disasemble and set it up. So far, I've only cleaned it and fixed the needle at the very bottom. I also adjusted the saturation of the mixture just by listening so that the engine ran smoothly and at the lowest possible speed.
I know that there shouldn't be a problem with the original radiator propeller, if the manufacturer supplied it that way, and that the problem will be somewhere else. That propeller replacement was my last idea of what to do. But I'll try some of your advice.
I hope I wrote it correctly in English🤨
Thanks
marbeton
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My 1925 Chrysler four keeps the engine warming up a lot. I replaced the seal under my head, I had the radiator cleaned in a specialist workshop, but the temperature is still just below 100 ° C. The water pump does not have this type. I don't know what else to do and where the problem might be, so it occurred to me that I could replace a two-blade fan with a four-blade fan from a six-cylinder B-70. Not sure if that would be possible? My fan has a diameter of 17 ". Thanks for advice.
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I disassembled the front axle and when I put it together, I found out that I don't know how to adjust the toe-in of the wheels. Don't know how much it should be?
Thank you for the advice.
marbeton
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OK, thanks, I'll try, maybe they'll help me there
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OK, thanks for the information
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My 1925 Chrysler four 58 has very high gasoline consumption. The spark plugs are new, the ignition is adjusted, the valves as well, so I'll probably have to disassemble, clean and adjust the carburetor. On the lid of the float chamber is the type Stewart 25 series 1. There are other numbers and I do not know what they mean. I-28-I7, 4-22-I3 and II-28-II. When I disassemble the carburetor, does anyone have a plan of what it looks like inside so as not to damage anything unnecessarily? Finally, I need information on how to adjust properly. If anyone knew, they would help me a lot.
Thank you
marbeton
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Thanks for the help, your information helped me a lot. The engine is already repaired and working again.
Now I just have to watch the temperature. Don't know what the operating temperature of a cooled engine without a pump is? -
I need to replace the cylinder head gasket on my 1925 Chrysler 58. There are numbers and letters on the engine block next to the head bolts. I don't know what they mean, because the process of tightening the nuts should be about the center of the head, rotationally or crosswise. According to those numbers and letters, that would not be possible. Don't know how Chrysler prescribed the cylinder head tightening procedure? And what tightening torque did he prescribe?
Another question is that I didn't have any washers under the nuts. Probably someone didn't assemble them during those 95 years, or were the nuts assembled without washers already in production?
I hope I wrote it clearly, the Google traslator had to help me a lot.🙂 -
Thank you all for your help and documentation. I finally got a new bearing from Timken with the same dimensions I needed. My car is driving again !!!!
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When I measured the real diameters, they were in inch. Timken Europe is looking for a similar bearing in their production. So let's see if he finds anything. But I would prefer to have the original old bearing so that the car has as many authentic parts as possible. My dream is for the car to be as it left the factory in 1925.
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Thanks, so I'll have to try the old fashioned way
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Don't know the Olcar Beraring email address? Speaking English is difficult for me, my translator helps me to write.
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My 1925 Chrysler 58 has a damaged outer tapered roller bearing on the front wheel. The Chrysler parts catalog contains the following information:Outer bearing cone 10591
outer bearing roller 10596 andouter bearing cup 10592.Only cone and roller are damaged. Do you know what the new designation for this bearing is and where could a replacement be found? Or does anyone have this bearing? Unfortunately in Europe, most bearings are metric. The bearing is manufactured by Schaffer.Thank for you help. -
Hi Viv,
thank you for the photos and dimensions. I'll do something like that, too. Just for the differential I will make a small elevation, as I have in the box in the floor in front of the rear seat. However, this is because the rubber hardy clutch on cardan interfered all the way up. I hope I translated the word correctly.😀 I also enclose photos of my boxing solution in the floor in front of the back seat with separate box for jack.marbeton
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Still photograph courtains as I made them and box under front seat.
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If there are courtains (6 pieces) in boxes in three doors, then I do not know how to look right. For every door that has to open with courtains, there should be some load-bearing structure. I made something up according to other manufacturers, because I do not know how to look right, but the supporting structure I do not fit into the boxes in the door. That's why I have them all stored in a box under the front seat.
When I bought the car, the upholstery of the door was already rebuilt several times, so I just copied it and in the front door I made a small box for small things down. On the back of the front seat were the remains of the original box and bracket for getting up from the seat and I did the original. Maybe during the winter break, I can even make the boxes in the door to make it look original. If someone else has more pictures, it would help me make them right. Boxing under the back seat I will do this week. It will be just a simple box. During the renovation I made an even smaller box for jack and tools in the floor in front of the back seat. I will probably keep it there because it is easier to access them.
And finally, as I searched for the details of my car, I discovered that Chrysler had called his two types six and four since the start of production. Only in December 1925 is renamed the B-70 and 58. So my car should be correctly labeled as Chrysler four. It was made in September 1925. The radiator is also emblem marked four. Marking 58 was only from the year 1926. Do I have the right information?
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8 hours ago, trimacar said:
As a side comment, I have a '31Pierce phaeton with tool pockets in door. As mentioned, makes door way too heavy, guess it was ok back then but no way I'm putting 20 pounds of tools in the door, plus weight of metal inner door.
neat feature, just not as practical as it sounds....
Yes your right, the weight is the big problem.
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9 hours ago, Narve N said:
This is an unrestored first year Chrysler displaying tool compartments in the drivers door, which probably is how it was for all 24/25. Unfortunately I showed this to my upholsterer who thought it was a good idea and made a similar arrangement for my 1929. His solution is rattling all over the place, the door is very heavy, and I have my proper tools in a tool box on the floor. Your choice, correct or practical.
The location in the door is interesting, I have not seen anywhere and I did not know about it.When I renovated the front door, so their wooden frame remained original, but no remnants of any construction I saw there. But as you write, there would be only complications (weight, rattling) and I probably will not do this.
In the original picture it is written that coutains were in pockets in three doors. Somehow I can not imagine how they fit, when there should be 5 pieces and a load-bearing structure to open the door with courtains. I'd rather stay with the box under the front and back seats. Thanks for the help. -
8 hours ago, viv w said:
Hi Marbeton,
I restored a very original 1927 Model 50 tourer about 30 years ago, it was a Detroit USA built car. I would assume that the model 58 would be very similar.
Under the front seat was a metal pan with 6 reinforcing "ribs", it was not very deep, perhaps 3/4 to 1 inch deep and if my memory recalls correctly this was nailed along the sides to the wooden frame. Not sure what was stored in this tray, but I don't think it was to hold the side curtains.
On the back of the front seat there was a " pocket " about 1&1/2 inch deep, I'm fairly sure that held the sidescreens.
Under the back seat was a metal panel with an "L" shaped tray in it, that I assumed held the Jack and split rim tool. Often these panels rotted out and were replaced with a piece of ply wood. At the time I also had a 28 model 52 tourer and I had a guy making me a tray to replace the one missing from this car, sadly he never finished it completely and bits got cut off of it. I think I still have its butchered remains. I will look tomorrow and see if it is still around.
Both the 27 & 28 cars I had were missing their original front wood floorboards so not sure if the picture below of a 1926 Model G70 is correct for your car. I stand to be corrected, but I think the front floor of your car was probably covered in linoleum, the part behind the front seat was often different and may have been carpeted or rubber.
I will scan some pictures of the body and floor wood in the next few days,
Viv.
1926 model G70 front floor
Model G70 underneath showing the front pan at the bottom of the photo. The rear pan on this car appears to have been replaced with wood.
Model 60 front under seat pan, not sure if the seat riser in this pic is correct but the pan looks right.
Hi Viv,
the box under the front seat has been renovated, as can be seen in your photo. Luckily there were some leftovers and I did it accordingly. Now I have the curtains stored.
I already have the pocket on the back of the front seat, but it's only for some small things. There's definitely no jack.
The most important help for me is the box under the back seat. Nothing has been preserved, so your information is important. I had no idea that in addition to the jack there was a rim split tool. If you found some leftovers you could send me their photo with dimensions, it would help me a lot. Also the information that the front and back floor had other materials is important to me. Because it is an open body, there was certainly no carpet, but rather rubber. I've seen a few photos from other cars, where the front floor is only wooden, so I probably do it as well and the back floor will be covered with rubber.
Thanks a lot for your help. -
Yes, production of the 58 began in July 1925, but each year since July ran the next model year. So the 1925 model year was not. The first was 1926, although part of the cars were produced in 1925
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According to FEDCO was made in September 1925.
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Under the front seats I found the remains of the box, so I know about it. Depending on the depth, however, it can only fit the curtains.
I couldn't find anything under the back seats, so there might be something there. Nothing in the floor in front of the rear seats? I would like to have everything exactly according to the original, as it was made in 1925 and therefore I look for any details. Thanks for the help.marbeton
1925 Chrysler four cooling
in Chrysler Products - General
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