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Everything posted by marbeton

  1. I also can't believe it, but since I adjusted the valves, the temperature has been fine. The old, experienced mechanics justified this to me by saying that this can happen with SV distributions, because the cylinders do not wash well.
  2. I think a miracle happened. I adjusted the valves and the engine began to cool. 😀😀 This means that my radiator is OK and there was an error in adjusting the valves. The cylinders were probably badly rinsed and the mixture burned more than it should.Otherwise I can't justify it. I didn't do anything else with the engine, so that must have been the cause.
  3. Members 827 Posted 46 minutes ago Just a word of caution. Antique cooling systems did not run a pressurised system, if you are having the radiator cleaned, make sure the repair shop you take it to know about antique radiators. Vintage radiators should be tested for leaks with no more than about 2 PSI pressure, if they test them using 15 to 20 PSI, as they do with modern radiators, it will most likely destroy the core. Viv. Members 827 Posted 46 minutes ago Just a word of caution. Antique cooling systems did not run a pressurised system, if you are having the radiator cleaned, make sure the repair shop you take it to know about antique radiators. Vintage radiators should be tested for leaks with no more than about 2 PSI pressure, if they test them using 15 to 20 PSI, as they do with modern radiators, it will most likely destroy the core. Viv. Yes you're right. I had the cooler cleaned in a professional workshop, which, in addition to modern, repairs radiators for oldtimer as well. This pressurization is there only to detect liquid leakage or radiator permeability. marbeton
  4. If your temperature fluctuates after a short drive, it will be: 1)Thermostat. Try to disassemble it, test in a container with hot water and a thermometer to measure when it opens and when it closes. 2)Water pump you have to disassemble and check 3)The radiator may be clogged You have to clean it and test it by pressurizing. If that doesn't help, it has to be replaced. I have to do that with my car now.☹️ 5)If you don't lose water from the radiator, the seal under your cylinderhead is OK Spar plugs equivalent can you find here: https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/AUTOLITE/3076 Good luck with reparatur marbeton
  5. I'm looking for 1930 Plymouth 30U interior door handles and crank handles. I would also need eskutcheons. The correct types are in the photos. Thank you for your help. marbeton
  6. My Instruction Book is for cars according to No. F-1001 up made in Detroit. According to FEDCO, my car was actually made in Detroit in September 1925. The numbering for cars made in Canada was different. I am also sending you a table with the serial numbers and places of production. I used to get it here on the forum. Our cars should be basically the same, only with small deviations according to the year and place of production. But the main thing is definitely the same. It should be nice with us today, so I'm getting ready for a little test drive. I'm going up a long, long hill to see what it does. I mounted a thermometer there (I made a replica of a Boycé motometer with a mounting on the steering wheel) so I can monitor it continuously. So I'll see what it does. marbeton
  7. 72 cylinders, 11,200 cubic inches, ooh it must be a wonderful sound.
  8. Hi Max4Me, Thank you for your help. Our temperatures are now about 10-15 ° C, so I don't have a problem yet. The engine only overheats when the outside temperature is above 20 ° C. So I'll measure it later and see the difference from your measurement. I have an infrared thermometer and I measure it with that. I usually had about 98-99 ° C on the upper inner side of the cooler. I didn't measure it below, but I'll try to do it when the temperature outside is higher again. The fact that your fan is blowing forward through the radiator is probably wrong. It must suck air through the boiler and push it around the engine through the ventilation openings in the hood. Don't you have a fan mounted upside down? Look at photos of other engines to see if they have it just like you. According to the operating instructions, there should be a Stewart carburetor, Zenith was installed for export only. I am sending you a picture of the page from the instructions where it is written. We have to put the lead additive there because the lead lubricates the valve seats. This is not possible in unleaded petrol and the valve seats would break out. marbeton
  9. Hi Viv, the exhaust manifold in the picture is old, which I had to replace with another one. So that I don't have to disassemble the new one from the engine, I took a picture of the old one for illustration. When I put it together, I leveled the seal so that the exhaust and intake manifolds were level. So in your opinion, the seal between the intake and exhaust manifolds should only be along the edge, and so the exhaust gases preheat the gasoline mixture in the intake manifold. That's how I did it. So there probably won't be a problem here. I have to keep looking. Thanks marbeton
  10. Thanks for the help. I renovated the car to the condition it left the factory in 1925. So it does not have a water pump and the fan is also the original two blades. As you write, the engine must cool down even in high temperatures, as you write that it is at home with you. So it should work for me too, where temperatures are at most 30 ° C. Unfortunately, there is a mistake somewhere and I am still looking for where. The radiator is cleaned, the seal under the head is new, and when it was replaced, I also cleaned the inner primers of the head and engine block, where there is coolant. The radiator hoses are new. Now I will try to see if the overheating of the heat seal between the intake and exhaust manifold does not affect this. I don't know what to look like yet. I have two options (photos are also here). The spark plugs are new (they have driven only 8000 miles) and are AC78S, so correct. I'll try to find out the temperature differences at the top and bottom of the cooler, as "hchris" advised me. Then I don't know what to do next. Can you please send me some photos of your car? Especially what the engine, floor and curtains look like. If you have them original, it would be a good inspiration for me. In all period photographs, the car is only from the outside, but nowhere is what the floor looked like. And if there are curtains, it is not proper to know how they are attached and how they originally looked. I am also sending you a link to photos of my car, which is listed in the catalog of world cars, which is made by one person in our country. https://auta5p.eu/lang/en/katalog/auto.php?idf=Chrysler-Four-Touring-22322 If you wanted to bring your car there too, it could be arranged. marbeton
  11. I'm still thinking about how to prevent it from overheating. Now I had another option. There must be a seal between the intake and exhaust manifold. There is an opening in the exhaust manifold where the exhaust gases go directly to the intake manifold and thus also heat the petrol mixture into the engine. Should there be a seal to prevent that direct heating, ie full, or has the manufacturer already anticipated this, and should there be a seal only around the perimeter? When I disassembled the engine, there were only some rests of the seal, from which it was impossible to tell what it originally looked like. So I put the seal there only around the perimeter. The photos show the exhaust manifold with the hole and also two variants of the seal, which I made. Don't know what's right? And how do you have it with your cars, for example. Thanks marbeton
  12. Hi Viv, thank you for your experience. I have new spark plugs type AC 78S. You should be right for my type. The manifold cover is new, as is the exhaust and intake manifold seals. But the fact is that the intake manifold that is bolted to the exhaust is always very hot. I put a heat-resistant pad between the intake and exhaust pipes (some were there, but they didn't last). So maybe the problem could be here too. I adjusted the ignition advance by listening, because I now use petrol with an octane number of 95 (in our country it has the lowest octane number and I have to add a special lead supplement, because the current petrol is unleaded) and then it was in Year 1925 about 65. Therefore the advance value given by the manufacturer must be today's petrol smaller. So a smaller lead value. I have an original Stewart carburetor. There could probably be a problem as well. Unfortunately, I don't have any documents from him, so I don't really know how to properly disasemble and set it up. So far, I've only cleaned it and fixed the needle at the very bottom. I also adjusted the saturation of the mixture just by listening so that the engine ran smoothly and at the lowest possible speed. I know that there shouldn't be a problem with the original radiator propeller, if the manufacturer supplied it that way, and that the problem will be somewhere else. That propeller replacement was my last idea of what to do. But I'll try some of your advice. I hope I wrote it correctly in English🤨 Thanks marbeton
  13. My 1925 Chrysler four keeps the engine warming up a lot. I replaced the seal under my head, I had the radiator cleaned in a specialist workshop, but the temperature is still just below 100 ° C. The water pump does not have this type. I don't know what else to do and where the problem might be, so it occurred to me that I could replace a two-blade fan with a four-blade fan from a six-cylinder B-70. Not sure if that would be possible? My fan has a diameter of 17 ". Thanks for advice.
  14. I disassembled the front axle and when I put it together, I found out that I don't know how to adjust the toe-in of the wheels. Don't know how much it should be? Thank you for the advice. marbeton
  15. My 1925 Chrysler four 58 has very high gasoline consumption. The spark plugs are new, the ignition is adjusted, the valves as well, so I'll probably have to disassemble, clean and adjust the carburetor. On the lid of the float chamber is the type Stewart 25 series 1. There are other numbers and I do not know what they mean. I-28-I7, 4-22-I3 and II-28-II. When I disassemble the carburetor, does anyone have a plan of what it looks like inside so as not to damage anything unnecessarily? Finally, I need information on how to adjust properly. If anyone knew, they would help me a lot. Thank you marbeton
  16. Thanks for the help, your information helped me a lot. The engine is already repaired and working again. Now I just have to watch the temperature. Don't know what the operating temperature of a cooled engine without a pump is?
  17. I need to replace the cylinder head gasket on my 1925 Chrysler 58. There are numbers and letters on the engine block next to the head bolts. I don't know what they mean, because the process of tightening the nuts should be about the center of the head, rotationally or crosswise. According to those numbers and letters, that would not be possible. Don't know how Chrysler prescribed the cylinder head tightening procedure? And what tightening torque did he prescribe? Another question is that I didn't have any washers under the nuts. Probably someone didn't assemble them during those 95 years, or were the nuts assembled without washers already in production? I hope I wrote it clearly, the Google traslator had to help me a lot.🙂
  18. Thank you all for your help and documentation. I finally got a new bearing from Timken with the same dimensions I needed. My car is driving again !!!!
  19. When I measured the real diameters, they were in inch. Timken Europe is looking for a similar bearing in their production. So let's see if he finds anything. But I would prefer to have the original old bearing so that the car has as many authentic parts as possible. My dream is for the car to be as it left the factory in 1925.
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