buick32

The manual calls for 50W in the summer and40W in winter, but if yourengine has been rebuilt to modern tolerances, you can use more modern oils. I use 15W-40 diesel oil because of its use of ZDDP. The filter you show is for '31 models. Beginning in '32 both inlet and outlet are on the top. On the discharge side toward the head your tubing is too large, causing too much oil to the head and robbing the rest. Size is important. I'm the guy making the authentic-appearing filters with modern replaceable spin-on elements. Your engine will love the improvement in filtration. The old filters were just a bunch of cotton waste with a built-in bypass valve for when they plugged up. Mac Blair

Indeed there are 3 engines/transmissions used in 1932. the one depicted is for series 90. Is this what you need? I do have a bunch of engines and trannies, but each one weighs literally a ton. I'm in Indiana, PA. Are you close? Mac

Buick made no torque specs until sometime in the late 1930's They relied instead on the length of the wrench to apply the proper torque using the strength of the knowledgeable workman as the guide to proper torque. That being said, the outer bearing is not an issue. The drum is on the axle with a taper fit which you do not want too loose, as movement will wollow out the drum, I don't know anyone who is man enough to get it too tight with an ordinary wrench. As a result, the drums are a real bear to remove, even with a puller. Next, you should consider the differential side bearings. The original ones were ball bearings, but ball bearings are not good at handling axial loads, and they often seized and ruined the housing. In about 1934 they ceased to use ball bearings, replacing them with tapered roller bearings which do handle the load. A word to the wise? The nut is locked with a star washer to retain it with no lash once it is tight.