Deanoko

Go for it then. Make sure your choice of material would survive.

Everyone following: I just spoke to the Wescar folks and they said they switched over to ABS plastic several years ago and have not heard of any deterioration issues since.

After looking atound, I bought a SLI27FM Duracell from Batteries +. With discounts it ran $180. It's not a pure flat top, but has 2x 3 gang rectangular caps.

Interesting about the disintegration problem. Time will tell here, I guess. I wonder if the plastic doesn't like the acid. I'm quite good at applying large decals so don't see that being an issue. I have a gig on eBay selling 3M Scotchlite reflective decals, which I make, for the rears of motorcycle hard bags My advice is to use painters blue tape to position it where you want. Then peel off a strip of the backing and trim it off. Affix that area and then, with just a sweeping motion of the finger from side to side, while peeling the remaining backing off, apply the rest Seems to do the trick without bubbles or creases.

I recently bought a new 27F battery. In the process of trying to make it look period correct I ran into 2 terrific products from Wescar out of Belgium The first is a set of 6 Delco yellow push in caps. The second is a big DELCO decal. Both are reasonably priced, as is the shipping. They can be found on eBay or order directly off their website. No affiliation. https://www.ebay.com/itm/313049749118?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=GU9wpP2uQBy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=h9rhYDBHSAW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

It wasn't that connector. It was the right hand white vertical bulkhead connector which merely clips into place.

Problem solved! Don't ask me how, when or why, but I found the F bulkhead connection unplugged and dangling under the dash!! Amazing how well the electricity flows when the wires are connected! Thanks for all the suggestions boys!

Thanks Tom. Nothing was moved when I changed the battery, beyond just swapping the cables for CARS new ones. I’ll just start testing, running back toward the switch. Good info on the lights test John. Never noticed that before. I did try various nudges of the shift lever including neutral. 2 steps forward, then 1 back.

Yes, jumpering that connection engages the starter, so looks like maybe an ignition switch issue or something between that yellow purple connection and the switch? Sigh…

Annoying situation. Here's the scenario. 64 Riv (4 note horns) I replaced the aged agm battery yesterday with a brand new 27F. Also replaced the battery cables and routed them per the 4 note horn engineering change. All other wires went right back where they were on the horn relay post. They are all tight. All accessories work fine as do lights and horn. When I turn the ignition key to crank I get nothing. The amp and cold lights brighten when I do this and the hot light illuminates. They dim to normal and the hot light extinguishes when I release the key. There is no starter or solenoid activity - silence. Jockeyed the transmission selector and also tried it in neutral - nothing. I have not tried to jumper the starter. Anyone have any ideas? Seems like it should crank right up but doesn't. Oh, also put a battery jumper box on the battery, which had no effect. Thanks.

Mine is an AutoZone bit. It is identical to my one with supposed issues. Duralast 22038. It had the smaller flange that my fan hub would fit over and the correct bolt pattern for the fan to clutch mating. Shown as being for 64 Corvette, since none of the Buick ones fit. Not interested in the truck one since I am "matchy-matchy" here.

The clutch I bought (noted earlier) is quiet and I don't romp on the gas pedal enough to tell any hp difference The test will be when it hits 105° again and I can see if the HOT idiot light still comes on. Recall that I also had the stock radiator cleaned out from a bunch of "guck".

Only available with the straight 6.

My expectation is that the HOT light will not come on, with a refreshed radiator and fully functional fan clutch. I watched the radiator flow like a fire hose, in the shop. There are still 2 unknowns: 1. Did I install a 5 vaned water pump or a 3 vane in the fresh 425? At the time of assembly I had no idea there were 2 varieties. 2. At what actual temp does the HOT light come on? I am investigating adding a Bluetooth temp sender into the plug in the left head so I can get some actual useful information sent to my phone.

Not without elongating the mounting hole on top, upwards, all the way to where the horizontal top - decal area is. Otherwise it would be even shorter on the bottom slots. The alignment is OK, and the fan clearance is good, but for the better part of $200 they should have done a perfect fit. I may have taken a photo of the OEM and repop side by side. I'll have to look. I know I complained to OPG with no response.

See the photos below. There is 1 vertical slot at the top arch to attach the shroud to the bracket up there. That's what I had to elongate. There are also the 2 slots at the bottom which fit into the "AC only" tabs pictured. The shroud should be long enough for them to slide right in but I'm going to have to ziptie them down.

Jim, James at Best Offer Counts on eBay is who I bought it from. No part number was listed. The listing link is below. It had a much bigger diameter and if I could have gotten my fan over the mounting flange I don't think the bolt holes for the fan would have lined up https://www.ebay.com/itm/232459551768?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=HlB0bNvxS8O&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=h9rhYDBHSAW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

When I refill the coolant and reconnect the trans lines I will be able to do a road test, but since it's the same size as what was replaced, and determined by the radiator guy to be "weak", I don't expect to see much difference. It's "only" supposed to be 95° today... News at 11.

Thanks Tom. Does this mean that it's normal for the blower to always be running in low, or is that only the case when the AC levers are not off? I wonder if the electrical contact for that fan logic is on the far left or on the other 2 labeled click stops? Deep dive. Do you know if there is a weak point which is the "usual suspect"?

Hey guys, Once I have this last gremlin sorted I can quit asking these questions and just enjoy the car! Is the blower master switch buried up under the console behind the heater / ac controls in the same unit as the 2 fan switches? My issue is that the fan runs on low with both the fan switches off and the heater + ac controls off. The heater fan switch works normally, except for never shutting completely off ie it does step up through the settings from low to high. The AC fan switch does nothing, (completely inoperative) when I know it should blow electrically unresisted air at the highest setting. The only ac I get is by using the heater fan switch. I replaced one of the vacuum door actuators with new, and the other appears to work as advertised. Wondering if there's a vacuum logic problem, adjustment, or electrical issue? Anyone have a similar issue they've solved?

All back together. I forgot how much I dislike the OPG fan shroud, which is too short and doesn't engage the lower tangs very well. I had to severely hog out the upper mounting slot or else it wouldn't fit at all! It's a good inch + short. For the money it should fit perfectly! I cried when I cracked the original. I guess it got a bit brittle over the near 60 year run.

Yes, that's my plan. I have the bottom and rear nubs in on both sides and only am working on the forward ones. They can't be accessed from underneath, so having to work over the radiator core support being careful not to ding the AC condenser.

I found a direct for replacement yesterday at AutoZone: their Duralast 22038 or 22045 It's a 61-67 Corvette part, but it's what I needed. (The 22045 actually shows to fit 64 Riv 7 liter) All installed. Now just trying to get the little rubber nubs of the new U shaped radiator mounts to go into their holes, so the radiator can go back in. Tough to get to. A little slippery stuff will help.

The fan open hub will not fit over the clutch base. Coincidentally both the water pump shaft flange and the clutch base are 2.32". The repop ones are 2.6" with slots. Earlier in the thread I provided photos of what I've got. I see C2 Corvette ones for $160 that look identical to what I have, so it's not some aftermarket thing. Build date 10D 63. Factory AC.

Mine looks OEM 5 asymmetrical blades, but 19" at best. I wonder if it's a '65 that came with the transplanted LT code 401?