Mutt's37Buick

Thanks very much for your help. Removing spring using your method of unfastening the 4 inner arm bolts went well and I was able to remove the spring. In addition to the four bolts also had to unbolt the lower control arm from the anti-sway bar but that was also simple. With regards to your upper pin description: So after removing the bolt with cap nut and loosening the clamp bolt should the upper pin come out either forward or rearward? Sorry for asking so many questions but my upper pins are both in bad shape. One has the back broken off showing and the other appears to have the bolt with cap nut sheared off flush with the spindle. Mutt

I'll still need to remove the upper pin eventually. Can anyone answer 2nd & 3rd questions? 2) Is the hex head on the front of the upper control arm pin a bolt that needs to be removed? 3) Once pressure is off the upper pins, do the pins press out towards front, or rear of car? Thanks

That sounds like the easiest fix I have heard of so far. Saves disconnect of several items. I'll give it a try. Thanks for your help.

I'm dissassembling my 37 Roadmaster for a frame off restore. It was suggested that I should remove the front springs and replace them temporarily with wood blocks before pulling the engine. This is because it will be much more difficult to do front end dissassembly with the engine removed. I found the post by mclbuick2002 in 2005 that describes spring removal: "Re: 1936 Buick Special Front Control Arm Pins You have to take the springs out to take pressure off the lower control arms. Jack front frame up and support on jack stands 1/disconnect tie rod ball stud 2/loosen either caster adjuster cap screw 1/2 turn. leave other locked tight to preserve caster adjustment 3/remove upper and lower caster adjuster nuts 4/remove brake assembly complete 5/jack under lower control arm until spring pressure off upper control arm 6/ push out upper control arm pin [you all ready have] 7/ SLOWLY release jack until coil spring falls out 8/ as you have tapered pin out the lower control arm pin should slide out Stan" Can anyone answer a couple of questions I have: 1) Do I need to remove the brakes to get the the springs out, or can I just disconnect the brake line? 2) Is the hex head on the front of the upper control arm pin a bolt that needs to be removed? 3) Once pressure is off the upper pins, do the pins press out towards front, or rear of car? Thanks

Thanks for your help. I was able to get the tank out. Folks on a different site told me that there are insulating strips between the tank and floor of the trunk. Adhesive is used on these strips. By the time I looked at the car the next night the adhesive had let loose, the tank dropped down on it's own, and was resting some wood blocks I had left beneath it. With the car jacked up I was able to swing the tank down and work the fill tube out without much difficulty. Wish some of the other stuck and rusted parts had magically come loose. So far the gas tank turned out to be one easiest parts to remove. Thanks

Thanks for your help. From what I have seen it is much more expensive to have an engine from this year rebuilt than it is to buy a rebuilt engine. Since I have a limited budget and I'm building a daily driver I'm planning on installing a slightly newer Buick engine with insert bearings and more horsepower.

Are there special steps required to remove the distibutor? If I mark the position of the distributor, and put it back in the same position, should it then be close to current timing? Thanks

Thanks for the feedback. I have the front sheetmetal and radiator removed. I bought a engine lift from a buddy that has enough capacity. I have a "Motors factory" manual that tells some details but does not tell how to lift the engine. If I remove the exhaust manifold then I could use those bolt points. 1) I see two bolts sticking out the pass side or engine, are they lift points? 2) Are there instructions in any service manuals? Thanks

I'm preparing to remove the engine and transmission from my 37 Roadmaster (320 straight 8). Would like to keep it together as much as possible 1) What accessorys are required to be removed before removing it? 2) What are the best lift points for engine? Thanks

Thanks everyone for your help. I'll give it another try with this info later today. Mutt

I'm trying to remove the gas tank on my 1937 Roadmaster as part of my frame off restoration. I got the two straps loose and the gas line loose, but it still seems to be held in place. 1) Does the hex head in the middle of the bottom of the tank also need to be removed, or is that a plug? 2) Is there some thing else I'm missing, or should it now be loose for removal? Thanks

I'm trying to remove the gas tank on my 1937 Roadmaster as part of my frame off restoration. I got the two straps loose and the gas line loose, but its still seems to be held in place. 1) Does the hex head in the middle of the bottom of the tank also need to be removed, or is that a plug? 2) Is there some thing else I'm missing, or should it now be loose for removal? Thanks

Thanks again for your help. Mutt

Thanks to you both for your help. Mutt

Are the rear fenders for 1937 Buick Roadmaster interchangeable with any other make/model? Thanks

What are the best body shops for the money in Denver Metro area for work on 1930's vintage car? Thanks

Thanks for your help

Can anyone tell me the rear end ratio in my 1937 Buick Roadmaster (model 81)? Thanks

That sounds right. I have not removed the headliner and left hand wall panels but I can see that the wires under the dash go up. Thanks

Jon Kanas was right on target with his guess. The bundle of wires (actually two wires in a sheath) went a few feet back to a pressure sensor on the brake line. Once I disconnected this I was able to remover the front wire harness. Thanks

I'm removing the secondary wire harness from my 1937 Roadmaster. I have all the front lights, horns and electric loose back to the dimmer switch loose. There is a bundle of wires that runs past the dimer switch along the top of the driver side channel of the frame. I'm assuming this goes to the tail lights, but I'm having trouble seeing where it routes up to the rear back at the trunk. Can anyone tell me if this bundle goes to the tail lights? Can anyone tell me where it passes back up into the body? Thanks Mutt

I'm removing the secondary wire harness from my 1937 Roadaster. I have all the front lights, horns and electric loose back to the dimmer switch loose. There is a bundle of wires that runs past the dimer switch along the top of the driver side channel of the frame. I'm assuming this goes to the tail lights, but I'm having trouble seeing where it routes up to the rear back at the trunk. Can anying tell me if this bundle goes to the tail lights? Can anyone tell me where it passes back up into the body? Thanks Mutt

I found two different copies of Fisher Construction manuals for a 1937 Buick on line. One is blue the other orange cover. One site had a used orange and said it was 10.75 x 8.25. Another site said the blue was 11 x 8.5. 1) Can anyone tell me if these manuals are equivalent in quality? 2) Does anyone know if one is an older printing? 2) Are these the best reference to help me disassemble the body on a 1937 Buick Roadmaster? Thanks

That would be great. Thanks very much for your help. Mutt

I'm preparing to remove the front clip from my 1937 Buick Roadmaster. 1) Can anyone sent me the instructions for removal? 2) Are there any tips that someone might have to ease removal? Thanks