Kevin bc
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Posts posted by Kevin bc
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RW
As someone else alluded to, they had to wriggle & shake & pull to get it out. What the problem is that I think the square shafts were guilottenned cut so the square distorted slightly,but when they are pushed in they seem to go in with a good push, but always seem reluctant to come out. If you get it out file it square again as another member said. You could try a little WD40 from the OS to make it slippery, but don't overdo it.
Kevin bc
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My 1930 DC has 2 screws on the outside in the door handle surround, and when you remove them you can pull the handle & shaft out, then the key mech is held in by a small pin through the diecast which has to be pushed out, then the lock will fall out MAYBE, but I can't vouch that the senior is the same. Anyway goodluck
regards
Kevin bc
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Hi Stewart, Thanks for the info, I have taken photos of the Desoto in Adelaide, nearly every angle except one of the dash of course. The dash is pretty crude compared with the sedans, its just an insert that screws to the top rail of the cowl. I must get onto Barry Holden in Tin Can bay & have a chat as well.I will ring you one night as I have been intending to call you for a while
regards
Kevin BC.
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Thanks keiser 31, the dash is the same shape but looks as though its part of the cowl. But it gives me a good idea of where its supposed to sit. Here is Aus we have wood pillars and a wood piece runs right across the top under the roll above the dash, then the dash screws into the runner at the top. My dash doesn't have the little flaps on the end that connect with the pillar.Will be able to sort it out now I can see where it should sit. Thanks once again for the photo's.The phaetons are extremely rare in Australia, less than 1/2 dozen I would say.
Kevin bc
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Does anyone have any info or photos of how the dash of a Phaeton fits under the dash, ie how far back does it sit. The Australian body has a wooden runner across the top, and the door pillar that it screws into, so does the American model have something similar. When I got the car the dash was out & the wood was disintergrating. Any help or photos would be appreciated
KBC
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My rear bumper mount for my 1930 DC dodge needs to have the recess for the spare wheel taken out of it ,but I am having trouble finding someone who can work spring steel. 2 enginnering places have refused to work it, and Industrial Springs here in Adelaide won't look at it either. WHO do I need to fix it - a Blacksmith?? - they are getting abit hard to find . Any suggestionsout there. I need to take the woof out of it due to it fouling the petrol tank cover.
Kevin BC
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Ian -Sorry I didn't reply earlier, must have missed your note - I already deal with AA, they came up with the last cone in captivity, but of course I needed 2 - Have dealt with them for years Regards KBC
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Hello Kevin, I looked in DA-6, DD-6 and DH no part # match, DG-8 has a match, you said 310163 but did you mean 310164, that is the number I found within my DC-8 parts book and DG-8 parts book.
I have a feeling that 63 is the number you are looking at though since in my books they run 162 and then 164 so I will ask you what the affective serial numbers are of your book. Maybe we can trade copies for copies since we have two slightly different books.
Anyway just because the part numbers on the other cars are not a match does not mean for sure they are different bearings, I know what bearing you need and it is also un-obtainable for DA-6 but I do have some spares and would be happy to send you one no charge except the shipping cost.
We would need to verify first they are the same bearing by some measurements. You can either continue this here or send me an e-mail at jhason2@yahoo.com
Again though keep in mind DG-8 does show the same part number either way.
Jason
Have sent you a email with a sketch attached
Kevin BC
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Ok, now that I have a part number I can tell you if they are the same, will look later after work. Tell John I said hello.
Have you asked David H. for any info concerning it, I would think that he would be able to tell you if the part is still avail here and maybe a good part #.
I know very little about the DC-8 and can only look up the numbers and compare them from model to model and other than someone knowing what already works or sending an example here for someone to bring to a bearing house to compare with I cannot think of any other options.
Now that I think about it the bearing may no longer be avail here though, years ago I sent David a steering box because he wanted bearings within it that were un-obtanable, maybe these bearings are the same.
Like I said, will look into it after work
Thanks Jason, I think I have mentioned it to a friend of David H, and together they didn't think they were available any more, thats why I was trying the Forum, as I thought someone might just have one lying around, or know where there might be one. I have a antique bearing place here in Aus who is looking at getting a batch made, so when that occurs there should be some on the market, but I was hoping there might be one left in the world so I could get my steering box together
Kevin
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Jason
Don't have any idea really, probally the same as the 1930 DD 6 dodge, but DA ????. I think without verifying, that my mates Budd body DA's steering box looks very different to mine. This box has a inner cone, bearing, & outer cone both ends of the worm on the steering column. The inner cone is a Timken 12, the outer cone is a Timken 10, and the bearing is a Timken 11. The DC parts list list it as a "WORM THRUST BEARING ASSEMBLY" 2 of required & has a part No of310163 & a code word of TYEKU.Don't know if this helps at all. I could
I was just talking with my mate , John Courtney,and he said he had had quite a bit of contact with you .
regards
Kevin BC
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Can anyone help with obtaining an "Endangered Species" a inner cone for a 1930 Dodge DC8 steering box. I have obtained the last one in Australia I believe, but of course require 2 for the job. Had no trouble getting the bearings and the outer cones, but could only get one of the inner. Cone is a Timken 12 - Any contacts in the states that might be able to supply, would be greatly appreciated.
Kevin BC
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Does anyone know how the 2 inner bearing cones on the 1930 DC dodge steering shaft go on,and how is the best way to get them off, and also what holds the worm on the shaft & stops it from turning - Doesn't look like an easy solution, but who knows, perhaps it is not that bad
Kevin bc - Australia
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Yeah Joe, The Dodge 8 only has a 14" blade, and that only justs clears the harmonic balancer, and the lower radiator hose. the speed wagon blade is approx 17" so would have to have about a 1 1/4" machined off.
Am sitting on this one as I have just had a new radiator built, and when the car gets on the road, it hopefully wont need the 6 blade fan, but thought it was an opportunity to get one as an option, when I saw it on EBAY for $11. - Too good to pass up.
Will add a photo or two soon
Kevin
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Hi there
Have just recently purchased a 6 bladed fan for my 1930 DC 8 Dodge. It came of a "DODGE SPEED WAGON" of 2nd WW vintage, matches the same bolt holes on my pump, but blades have to be machined down for my car so they clear hoses & balancer.
cheers
Kevin BC
Gemmer DA steering Box More Help Needed
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Spinneyhill
DC dodge owner Kevin bc here friend of Johns, the worm on the DC has to be pressed off, its the cones that are a tight fit, and the worm has a small keyway in it so it has to come straight off. Don't damage the cones as I obtained the last one in the world, but found a engineering person in Adelaide who made me 2 sets, can organise some if you need. Also have had harmonic balancer modified & rerubbered(old rubber was only about 3mm thick)so he machined some of the excess metal out to get a good supply of rubber in the joints, also this person rerubbered engine mounts, and cast up new bump stops for me, I can highly recommend him.
I also have a fair amount of play in my steering wheel with new bearings, but haven't really played with it yet(another must do). I also had the "restoring a Gemmer steering box" mod done to stop the grease leaking out the light sw seal, which is working too.
Kevin bc