Kevin bc
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Posts posted by Kevin bc
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Kevin BC here
Here is a photo of the rubber around my 1930 Dodge gear stick, as a staring point in your search. It is exactly a copy of the origonal on mine(Richards Body). Don't know if it dates back to 28 models.
Got it from the states, will have too look it up if of interest to you, can take a photo of it inplace if you need it
regards
Kevin BC
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Kevin BC here, When I pulled the seals out of my 30 DC 8, there were no shims either, and that was at 44000miles, so would guess that was the first pull down, so perhaps they did not all need to be shimmed.
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Kevin BC here again with some photos.
In the 2nd photo the threaded part in the bottom of the bag I ground the sides of the fitting, the ends of the bag are glued together , and then glued to the vertical pillars under in my case the wooden plinth holding the arm rest and window winder mech. The window actually winds down into the bag, which you can see is approx 2" wide.
Sorry I don't have more photos of the window area
Regards
Kevin
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Taylormade
Kevin BC here from downunder,
I had serious doubts about keeping water out of my windows especially the rear quarter vents, on my 30 Australian DC Dodge8, as any water that got in had no where to run except to the wooden door pillar or into the back corner of the car. the doors at least had a couple of slots cut in the wood that the water could escape through. My Car was actually rusted out in the corners at the rear of the guard from water running to that area, and sitting in years of dust , mixed with timber. The cars when made weren't meant to be still in use 90 years later
I pondered this problem for several months, and came up with an idea, that worked for me, I got some black pond liner, fixed it to the window sill, dropped it down under the window glass(Lowered to its lowest position of course), and then came back up the window glass on the inside, and fastened it to the pillars with hot glue making a bag around the window. In the bottom of the bag I glued a faucet nut and tail, and to the tail I glued some plastic tube into the end of the tube & ran it out through the timber at the door pillarto below the chassis. It was a lot of mucking around but I know there will never be another rust problem in that area. The door windows could be done the same as any water could be dumped out the bottom of the door.
I know we are not talking large quantnities of water, but be able to disperse any moisture out of the doors & bodies is a big positive in my view. Will find the photos and give you a look at them
regards
Kevin
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Richard
Kevin BC here, fellow down undera
Just looking at your latest pictures' your hinges look in good nick, but thought I would let the Aust members know, about brand new hinges for Phaetons & Roadsters in Australia,looks like they were the same for some time as I have the same hinges, and latches on my 1930 DC 8 Phaeton.They are Chev hinges and you can get brand new hinges ,door latches, door extension bars, inside handles, inside front handle pivot brackets from "the Filling Station" which is a chev reproduction company in the US. The parts are identical. Budd cars don't use them but Aust Chevs and Dodges, looks like they were used by Holdens as they built Chevs & Dodges, and Richards after 28 must have carried on with the same suppliers.Glenn Smith also has the the inside front door handles listed under 28,29,30 Chev Catorgary, The filling station also has temperature sensor for the Dodge 8's, don't know if same as earlier models.
Is that right that the hinged rear seat section is so, so that the side curtains can be put behind the seat when not in use.
Regards
Kevin
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Kevin BC here from down under
Martin Lester Smith (lestersmith@bigpond.com.au)
try Martin Lester Smith from Melbourne, I had a few purchases from him for my 1930 DC 8, and recently got a NOS crown wheel and pinion, still wired up together on a board., Don't know if DK is the same as the DC , but he did have another DC one ,but may have a DK set, as his father many years ago bought out an old garage down Geelong way , and it was full of spare ring & pinion sets, amongst other items
regards
Kevin Brincat-Cotton
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Kevin BC here from Aus
You would not believe it, I have just been emailing a friend looking for headlight rims as I am doing up a set & one of the rims is out of round & cracked through, and the other has a crack in it , can you contact me via email at bc3s@bigpond.com
regards
Kevin BC
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Kevin BC here
Just as well the bearings in your box were in good shape, I replaced mine in my 1930 DC 8, a couple of years back , got the bearings, and outer cones OK but got the last inner cone avaiable in Australia, so had to have the other made, but all turned out good, my point being that if you see bearings & cones in your travels grab a set. I did find that the cones & bearings appear to be the same or very similar as in the old grey Fergi tractor , so that could be a possibility if anyone gets desperate in the future.
Just a point of interest on the steering box, do all the readers of this forum realise that the worm gear in the steering box here in Australia wont work in the US in the same box,and vice versa as the worm is cut in the opposite direction for right hand drive. Its not just a matter of turning the worm around.
Regards
Kevin
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Hi guys
Try a company called "Replicore" in New Zealand, I recored my 1930 Dodge 8 with one of their cores, they make all types of cores from vintage cars to oil coolers for vintage aircraft. NZ is a bit closer than England I reckon, transit might be a bit cheaper????.
Just interesting to view their web site even if you don't purchase from them
Kevin BC
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Stewart
Kevin BC here - Try "Scots Old Auto Rubber" - thats where I got my set from, and they fit perfectus - I think the price along side is an error or for the item above
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Kevin here again
Have a look on the internet at "Classic Fasteners " in Adelaide, they have a good selection of RH slot screws in Nickel, and might even have the metal threads or similar .
Kevin
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Kevin here again , checked my supplies can't help as only have raised head. Its interesting that you have X head screws , I guess they are for screwing into the metal, where here in Aus we still had wood frames and all screws were wood screws, no metal threads at all, so another difference between our cars
Kevin
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Mpgp1999
I had lots of trouble getting the right screws for my Dodge 1930 DC 8 here in Australia, when i needed them, I finished up finding good suppliers in England, have lost the name now but there were quite a few suppliers over there of specialist wood screws,
My requirements were
Raised head
Screwdriver Slot
Brass
Chrome plated
Here in Aus 99% of screws have cross slots these days one struggles to get a screw with a slot in it, then they are chinese & not the quality of the English ones
I'll see if I can dig up the docket, with a name on it, but if you search the net you will find one of them, Price was reasonable about $10 Aus /100
I may have your No 6 roundhead, I'll check & let you know
regards
Kevin
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Ken
Kevin here from SAus Can you give us a picture of your drums, I may have some earlier drums if they are the same, give me some measurements aswell
Kevin
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Tom
Yes they are still available, my email is"bc3s@bigpond.com" if you want to contact me we can finalise payment & delivery
regards
Kevin BC
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Darrell
Checked out the postage to the states from Aus $50 Aus, which is $37 US, so if you want these I'll make it $110 US all up.
Kevin BC
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Darrell
Hi
Today is Sunday here , will check out the postage tomorrow for you.
Could not reply to your message via the website
Don’t know what they are off, bought them at a swap meet , thinking I could use them on my 1930 Dodge8 Phaeton, but the phaeton has cup holders where the hood sits in a cup arrangement & is strapped into the holder, so they are not appropriate for my use & I have been sitting on them wondering if anyone needed them for some time. They may be a generic brand as most Aust phaetons seemed to use this type , as most brands of cars were either assembled by Holden’s or Richards Body builders here, and had generic parts used on all makes
Will get back to you tomorrow.
The securing sleeves are easy to make , some brass rod cut into two pieces at 45 degrees, and the brass threaded to take a holding bolt, it the same securing method as the cup holders on my car.
Regards
Kevin BC
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Newbie
I have a pair of top rest saddles, that are available if they are of any use to you, they would be slightly later than the ones you show I reckon, but are good solid units. I am from Australia downunder, so I would want $75 US plus freight for them
regards
Kevin BC
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Hi Kevin BC here
Can you please verify if they are single action or double action
If double action will mount horizontal, if single will mount vertical.
I need double action
regards
Kevin
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Hi guys
The Australian Dodges in this area have 3 boards(3/4 inch thick) that are butted together and sit in 2 channels that go from the floor up to the firewall at about 40 deg. There is a couple of cutouts in the top one for the pedals to operate, and then it was all carpeted, and had a large rubber plate around the pedals , and steering column. When I say the boards were butted together, they did have a half overlap groove in each edge to stop moisture from getting in, which also stops any board from sagging .
Australia used boards in their floors, but I believe US cars used plywood, is this correct?
regards
Kevin BC
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http://www.oldera.com.au/windscreen-frame-brass-u-with-slot-base/
Spinneyhill
Your right - Seniors moment, thinking about something else, try OLDERA, been working with Centrelink regards "New Start Allowance", got New on the brain.
Kevin
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Ric
Google a company called "New ERA Services" in Australia, they produce material for making a new windscreen, in brass, might be of use to you
Kevin
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Spinneyhill
You are right about the wire wheels, it would make it easier with the wires off, would give you more room to work around the backing plate, makes me look more forward to the day when I have to do the brakes on my DC Tourer, but that's a long way off yet.
regards
Kevin BC
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When adjusting1930 Dodge DC DD brakes, and possibly other models, on the rear, the front adj nut lines up with the spring shackle, not enough room to get a standard socket in, and then you cant hold the bolt to do the nut up anyway. I have found a spanner that makes the job easier. Called a "Crowsfoot " spanner it is as the picture shows a cutoff open ender, with a 3/8 socket extension hole. As seen fits inside the backing plate neatly & bolt can be held with large screwdriver whilst nut is done up, taking lots of frustration away.Hope this idea makes it easier for someone else out there who has probally uttered profanities when trying to adjust the brakes of this era Mopars
Kevin BC
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1927/1928 Tourer body
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Richard
Sits on top of the carpet, with 4 screws to hold it down, or you could glue it to the carpet, but gluing it is pretty permanet, On top of the carpet it provides a nice defined edge around the carpet, and around the shift housing. I reckon I may have got it from 'Steele" rubber in the states. I just checked Steele, your car is the same as mine, they have them for a 28, but they are quite costly. I think I have an old one here, that I could send over to you if you want to have a look at one to make one up.
Kevin