Kevin bc
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Posts posted by Kevin bc
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Keiser
Looks like maok has you on the right track. It would be possible to take out the seal, as Spinneyhill suggests, but I tried that & finished up buckling the flange ,being heavy handed as the seal was hard to shift after all these years. The leather in the seals I got hold of were in excellent condition, but if they haven't been stored correctly they could be dried out. Try to check if they are wrapped in greaseproof paper still, if you go down that path. Mine came from " AA Bearing Company" in Melbourne, if you want to check them out, very good people (Denis is his name). I have done business with him for my DC, for G/box bearings Steering box bearings & cones, pinion seals, rear wheel seals.
Kevin BC
Kevin BC
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Keiser
Found the site on ebay, 2 available
ebay no is 172313538228, just put No into ebay, and the seal will pop up, lists the models it fits
Kevin BC
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Keiser 31. There is a pinion seal on EBAY that says fits Dodge 30-33. It is the same as my 1930 DC dodge pinion seal, so I'm presuming it will fit your car. If you don't have any luck in the states I can give you a contact in Melbourne that recently supplied me with 2 new ones. I" ll dig out the spare one & get you a number if you like.
Kevin BC
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Hi guys
For what it is worth. My gauge was very frustrating for a long time. I'm also a tech of 40+ years, and it baffled me for 6 months or more I reckon
Don't know if your gauge is the same as my 1930 DC with 2 coils , but if it is then when you have the gauge out of the car bench testing it then the case of the gauge has to be earthed to the power supply, as the second coil is hooked up to earth or the case of the gauge, and if you just connect to the terminals on the gauge then the 2nd coil is open circuit, (which if I remember correctly gives you either F or E) so you would also have to make sure the gauge is well earthed when in the car.??. You can see my type of gauge in a Dykes manual on page 652 AC type. Another thing I found was that the tank from full to empty did not use the whole range of resistance, mine being up to 130ohms, ,and I could get it to work out of the tank but not in the tank. it was either F or E. After a lot of cog adjusting I have been able to find a medium using about 50ohms where Empty is Empty, and a 1/2 F tank is around the middle & the F reading is ??? which I guess does not have to be real accurate. E is the critical factor
Good luck
regards
Kevin BC
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Guys
I had the same problem with my brakes on my 1930 DC. What I did was cut a slot in the end of the adjusting bolt where the nut fits. This then allows one to unlock the bolt and turn it with a large screwdriver from the outside & it also allows one to hold the adjuster bolt in place when tightening the nut on the adjuster ensuring the gap from the drum to the lining stays correct, as I found you get the measurement all correct, and when you tighten the nut the adjuster cam can turn as you tighten.
Kevin bc
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I just want to promote a supplier that went out of his way to supply me with 2 head gaskets for my 30 DC Dodge. we had a mix up in supply, and when I contacted him, be it I was a little cross, he went out of his way to get the correct head gaskets to me, and he had the new gaskets in Australia within 7 days, just about a miracle for US to Aus. Not only did he get them here , but told me to keep the incorrect gaskets & sell them locally
Jude from "Obsolete Auto Wholesale of VALLC" is the man concerned.
They appear to have a good supply of bits & pieces for the Old car people, so check his wares out, as "Good Service with Supply" is what we would always like to see.
Kevin BC
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I just want to promote a supplier that went out of his way to supply me with 2 head gaskets for my 30 DC Dodge. we had a mix up in supply, and when I contacted him, be it I was a little cross, he went out of his way to get the correct head gaskets to me, and he had the new gaskets in Australia within 7 days, just about a miracle for US to Aus. Not only did he get them here , but told me to keep the incorrect gaskets & sell them locally
Jude from "Obsolete Auto Wholesale of VALLC" is the man concerned.
They appear to have a good supply of bits & pieces for the Old car people, so check his wares out, as "Good Service with Supply" is what we would always like to see.
Kevin BC
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Robert
That's a great find, I knew there would have to be something somewhere on the D???? shockers. Have just printed the info will go & sit down & digest it all, and see if I can come up with an answer to the soft return. Thanks
Kevin bc
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Robert b
Here are some photos that might jag someones memory
1st photo
End cap on right
central arm visible cover plate removed
riveted bracket at top moves piston L or R
3rd 4th photo show 2 screw in valves
Not much else to show - small filling screw 3rd photo top right hand, and 4th photo bottom RHS
kevin bc
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Ply 33
Thanks for that info, that's what I have been wanting to find out, that's basically what mine are doing, but I was unsure if that was what was supposed to happen, appears they are acting correctly except for the last one which is very soft with the axle going up, we'll see what they are like once on the car
regards
kevin bc
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Guys
a couple of hours later
Spinneyhill
Had a look at page 23-24 Daphne, those are like the DA shocks, unfortunately nothing like mine. If yours are double acting and leaking at the arm seal, you will be able to get a modern seal from your local bearing place. I will check tomorrow to see if I still have the No. I pulled the steel cap out, and the old seal, and the new double edged seal went in without any trouble.
Taylormade
keep up the magnificent resto story
Regards
Kevin bc
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Hi guys
Thanks for the replies, not too many out there that know anything about these shockers, "apple hydraulics" have no info on my type. Other then a couple of drawings they don't seem to exist. I got onto a older person in Sydney who used to rebuild shocks, doesn't know of my particular type but he told me that the double action shocks, around 1930 did in fact have different compression rates in either direction.So that's answered one of my questions.
I don't know if they are the same as the DL, I suspect not ,as later DC's than mine had reverted to the DA model shocks which were single action & mounted vertically. Mine are mounted horizontally. If yours are vertically mounted then there are several good articles on the net on how to restore them, as they would be the same as DA search DA shockers.
I have 3 out of the 4 working OK now, but I suspect perhaps the Piston of the 4th has a little wear in it & maybe some bypass is happening, which is giving me the soft return in the down direction. I have spare valves but none of them make any difference to this shocker ,so the only other part that can fail is the actual piston
Regards
Kevin bc
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My 2 1930 DC Dodge 8 has Double Action Delco Lovejoy "Duodraulic" shockers on them. Other Australian DC's have single action same as the DA's on them. Must have changed during production
The problem is I can't find info on this particular shocker.
I have re assembled them, 2 are working hard in each direction, but the other 2 are only working hard in one direction, and soft in the other ,but one is hard in the up direction & the other is hard in the down direction.
They are simple in design, they have 2 screw in valves, a G1 & a G4,, and on the piston there are 2 one way small valves held in by hair springs. Does anyone know which end of the piston these hair springs go, as they are of slightly different spring rates, and different gauge wire. I didn't notice this till today, and of course I had just pulled them all out covered in dried up oil thinking they were all the same, and didn't take photos..
The large screw in valves are of different settings too., but they are in correct position, as I did take photos of the OS before dis assembling
I guess the main question I need answered should the movement in each direction be the same or different. The fact that the valves are of different ratings, sort of indicates to me maybe the down stroke should be softer. Please correct me if I,m on the wrong track.
As G1 is the heavier valve I am thinking that the heavier hairspring should be at that end of the piston, but that is only from a logical point of view.
I have found a drawing of the shocker, which shows the principle of operation, but has little text or explanation with it.
Any info would be appreciated
Kevin BC
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Hi guys
My 1930 DC dodge has a smaller hose than yours approx. 1 1/4" hose. It has a elbow that is a copper plumbing elbow( solder type) that has 2 nice flat surfaces at each end & the curve is drawn out thus no kinks. . The hoses fit neatly on the ends with no puckering when clamps are done up.It was on the car when I got it many years ago. These elbows are still used as I had to purchase some 1" one recently to repair the airway elbows in my player piano, as the zinc ones had disintergrated after 90 years filling the valve boxes with zinc dust & bits(another story & job) I couldn't find any elbows the right size in Aus or US, except for these copper ones.
My car had what I presume were the orig clamps on it when I got it. They were wire clamps with 2 wires around the hose & a loop at each end which the clamping bolt went through(Galvanised wire I think). Could probally find one & take some photos if you think they are the orig ones
kevinbc
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INFORMATION FOR RICHARDS BODIED DC DODGE 8 members
Members with Australian Richards bodied 1930 DC vehicles, do not purchase O/S door handle gaskets from "Steele Rubber".
There is nothing wrong with their gaskets(very good ones in fact - I have 4), but once again there are differences between the Budd bodies & Richards bodied cars, and the O/S "door handle base " is one of them The Australian shape is long & slim, and the Budd shape is shorter, and broader.
Also the door handles are different with more handle past the spindle point (about 1") on the Australian handles, and only about 1/2" on the Budd handles. Overall size is the same its just where the spindle shaft is located along the handle
Kevin bc
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Spinneyhill
Your rheostat certainly looks very different. Doesn't look Mopar, probally grabbed off something else when the orig gave up the ghost. Looking at the construction of the top it appears similar in construction, but looks to be a high class product off a higher luxury market car.
Kevin bc
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Spinneyhill & Gundog9
Here are a few photos, that may help you.
1st one of new gears fitted to old unit(note the washer above pinion to ensure good mesh)
2nd - view of inside rheostat showing condition of windings
3rd - Insulation pieces for inside & outside of rheostat unit
4th - Screw & spring that holds crown wheel in place, along with the 2 brass tubes that provide the wiper arm in the top of the rheostat unit (small spring not shown)
5th - whats left of 2 sets of muck metal gears
Kevin bc
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Will post some photos so as soon as I work out how to, never posted photos before, looks easier to restore a car than operate technology.
Kevin BC
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Just a bit of info that may help DC Dodge owners with a faulty gas sender unit
After pulling 3 old sender units to pieces looking for a good set of muck metal gears, a friend with a DA suggested that "MYERS" had brass gears for DA's listed, which might be similar to what I was looking for. They certainly looked similar, so took a chance and contacted Cindy, and I had a set from the States to Australia in 9 days. Best delivery time I have ever had from the states. When they arrived they were identical to my muck metal cogs
I had to do a few things to get them to fit the DC, but I think the same would be needed for the DA
I had to surface the faces of the crown wheel to fit inside the frame.
I had to run a drill through the crown wheel to take the large headed screw that holds the crown wheel,( only a small clearance was required) and then drill the crown wheel adjacent to the teeth to take the side spring & large head of the crown wheel screw.
To remove the old crown wheel from float wire, a electric soldering iron soon loosened the wire. There are some crimp grooves in the float wire which bonded with the crown wheel metal. I smoothed them a little to get the new crown wheel onto the wire which I then soldered.
At this stage the Crown wheel & float could be fitted to the frame, and looked the part.
The old pinion gear on mine had been fitted with a small split pin(Other one was pressed on). When the pinion gear was removed this shaft too had some grooves to stop the pinion moving.
Looking at the assembly I decided that as I wanted to solder the pinion on, the shaft would have to come out so I could fit & solder the pinion gear on, without trying to negotiate the confines of the frame. The only problem here was that once the pinion was soldered on, you could not put the shaft back in, because of the top unit wiper arm. This part nessitates the removal of 5 rivits to remove the top of the unit to get the shaft out
Any way the wiper arm just presses off using a very small long shafted punch, not too much force needed to move it, then the shaft can be refitted from the bottom, and the wiper arm refitted.
I mentioned the grooves in this shaft for the pinion, and they are also at the wiper end. I had to smooth these off slightly to fit the pinion before soldering it, and also at the wiper end so that the shaft passed freely through the frame at the pinion end ,and through the collar at the wiper end.
On the top resistance section I had drilled the rivets out so that the top could be removed, as I wanted to check the condition of the rheostat, wiper arm etc. Just be careful if you do this as the little spring inside the wiper arm is very hard to see once it has sprung somewhere in the shed.
The top has 10 holes in it & it only fits in one position. . With this top off you can see where the rheostat wire starts and finishes to line up the wiper arm with the meshing of the cogs.
My 40 years as a technician helped with getting the unit back together & working. Might be something not to play with if you don,t have fiddley fingers.
A little bit of fiddling may be needed to ensure proper meshing of the gears. I had to fit a small washer above the pinion gear to mesh the gears correctly
Hooked the gauge, and sender unit up to a 6v lantern battery, and away the gas gauge went, empty to full as the float was moved, and back the other way.
The spring in the wiper arm is a very soft compression spring. If you loose it & replace it with a stronger spring it will put more load on the wiper arm and make the movement of the float stiffer, but the sloshing of the gas should still move it OK.
Kevin BC
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Hi Rogillio
Bit hard to see pattern on centre separator, but looks as though it might be off 1930 Dodge either a DC or DD.
Bars look very similar to the ones on my DC.
Kevin BC
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30dodge35
You can get new inside cranks from "Vintage Reproductions" in Australia. Glen Smith is the owner, and makes a good product. You can either get them rough cast & finish them off yourself, and get them plated, or for an extra price Glenn will finish them. Just search Vintage Reproductions on the net or check out his advert in the back of the Dodge magazine if you subscribe
Kevin BC
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Hello
I need a windshield crank assembly for my 30 Dodge Business coupe it rolls up and down not in and out. I have no idea what it even looks like so if you happen to have one to sell or willing to send me a picture of it That would be greatly appreciated. The glass has two briefcase looking handles on it so maybe there is two separate cranks or a larger double mechanism. Not Sure!
Thank you !!
30 DD
Kevin bc again, I have arranged with a friend in the states to take a couple of photos for you on the weekend of the front window mechanism for your car
Cheers
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Hello
I need a windshield crank assembly for my 30 Dodge Business coupe it rolls up and down not in and out. I have no idea what it even looks like so if you happen to have one to sell or willing to send me a picture of it That would be greatly appreciated. The glass has two briefcase looking handles on it so maybe there is two separate cranks or a larger double mechanism. Not Sure!
Thank you !!
Hi
Kevin bc here, I have a 1930 DC8 dodge sedan, which has the same windscreen setup as your DD. I am presuming you are in the states & have a Budd bodied car, Mine is a Australian Richards bodied sedan. The mechanism on mine will be different to the Budd mech. Mine has a pair of pivot arms wound from the centre on a pressed steel mech, which is much more robust than the Budd mechanism. The Budd mech has an axle I guess you could call it which is horizontal. this connects to the handle. On the axle shaft are 2 diecast cogs which rotate as the axle turns. These have a stud on the diecast cog which fits the lugs on the window screen, and as the cogs turn the window goes up or down. The problem with the budd mech is that there is a fair load on these diecast cogs, and over the years they break up due to fatigue & load, and I think you may be struggling to find a good pair, or a pair that would last. I think when you find a cog it would be worth your while to get the cogs cast in brass. Glen Smith in Aust would cast them up for you. I don't have any pictures of either type, but I may have a spare Australian type that you probally could adapt.I would have to check through my bits if you are interested. I presume the head board in yours would be metal, wheras mine is timber,and the mech fits with woodscrews,which could easily be changed, but your fitting position is slightly different I think. I had a Budd DC coupe years ago so did get to play with the Budd mech a bit but cant really remember how it fitted.
Hope this gives you a little help
Kevin bc
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Is there a splash Guard a Trim between the cab and running board?
I purchased this 1930 DA. After closer inspection realized car looks good from distance, but was only a top rebuild, I have since disassembled and clean frame and cab,
i am in the process of reassemble, since the cab on a DA actually straddle the Chassis , It hangs down on sides approximately 2 inches and is mounted to sides,
then running boards attached to mounts under chassis.
My 35 KC has splash pans.
Dosen't list parts in parts book,
Jesse
Jesse, If your car is a Budd bodied car then I am led to believe that it would not have Valence panels, my mate has a Budd bodied DA, and it has no valances. I have a Australian bodied 1930 DC 8 Dodge which does have valences, but my friend in the states with a Budd Dodge 8 does not.
regards
Kevin bc
How I installed turn signals in my 24 touring
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Just a reply to "Dave 24" regards bending taillight stalk for RHS. For any others that may want to add a 2nd taillight, I added a 2nd to my 1930 DC Dodge here in Australia, by getting an American stalk which is bent the other way to the Aus one, problem solved . You guys in the US would need an Aussie stalk. Maybe we can send some Dodge steel back your way
Kevin BC