Syncros007

I apologize I have bot been on here in awhile, but Mr. Hammers (Restorer32), you performed the wonderful service work on my Rickenbacker, greatly appreciated! I am a member of the Rickenbacker Club and coincidentally I helped in constructing the new web page, www.rickenbackermotors.org, for the club. As for Mr. Sheldon (wayne Sheldon), please check out the pictures I took of the 1924 Rickenbacker. http://rickenbackermotors.org/1924-sn17096-c6-coupe/ I took the first picture back in 2008 at an AACA event in Gettysburg, and the other pictures I took this year at Hershey (2017). It does sport a Utah license plate, so it is highly likely the car you might have seen in Nevada, long ago.

Not mine. "1927 REO Wolverine - $8000(Noblesville) 1927 REO Wolverine. 84,000 actual miles. New wiring & New Engine. Great parade car. Runs & drives like a dream. For more information call or text 317-65six-931one. Thank you. Gary"

Not mine, but here are pictures of the 1926 Chrysler for sale on Craigslist.

Not mine, just posting the ad, in the event deleted from Craigslist. "1928 REO Gasoline, 4door, 6cyl Has not been ran in a long time but ran well, clean title in hand. Needs lots of TLC but definitely a rare gem The car was bought as a project for my grandfather and I but lost my grandfather and have held on to it due to the sentimental value. Serious inquiries please 5seven5 six44 four3Twenty. Tammi $4,000"

Not mine, just posting the ad, in the event deleted from Craigslist. "1928 REO Gasoline, 4door, 6cyl Has not been ran in a long time but ran well, clean title in hand. Needs lots of TLC but definitely a rare gem The car was bought as a project for my grandfather and I but lost my grandfather and have held on to it due to the sentimental value. Serious inquiries please 5seven5 six44 four3Twenty. Tammi $4,000"

Anyone have a set of used 600x21 tires, they are willing to part with? I am looking for either 2 or 4 tires in respectable condition. I am located near York, PA. Feel free to respond or message me. Thank you, Kyle

(Not mine either, just posting ad) "1932 Hupmobile - $25000(Newport, RI) 1932 Hupmobile, 2dr, B 126 coupe, blue, rumble seat, excellent condition, 25K tel. Vin 401-266-9376"

(Not mine either, just posting ad) "1924 REO T6 Brougham -$14000 (NE KY) This car was fully restored in the early 1980's by my father. It won many trophies in it's day! Soon after completing it he parked it on some lifts, drained all the necessary fluids out of it and parked it under a covered carport. It has been sitting since so the sheet metal has a little rust but overall it is in great shape for being nearly a century old. It has not been started in probably 20 years. I tried to get pictures as best I could for the lighting conditions but obviously pulling it out into the sun was not possible. The top is in great shape and all the parts and pieces are fully in tact. All windows work, the doors open and close correctly and the wood on the interior looks amazing. He installed a simple "stop" or brake lamp on the rear to make it drivable on todays roads. Obviously this is a very rare car and older REO's are increasingly hard to come by. The story of R.E. Olds is pretty interesting and they later turned to trucks after the great depression. I made a simple walk around video and posted it to youtube.com so you can see the car a little better. The link is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLJZdQ7aqvc When my father was rebuilding the car he told me it was the ONLY one in the world. I am not sure if there is another but I have never seen one exactly like this one. Spreading the word that it is for sale would be greatly appreciated! Feel free to email me if you would like to see it in person. I am posting it here first to see if it stays local before moving to classic auto trader or another listing site."

(Not mine either, just posting the ad in the event it gets deleted) "32 REO flying cloud - $37000(weare, nh) 1932 maroon REO 16 time grand national winner. 37,000 or B.R.O. Call for more details mike (603) 717-2323"

(Not mine either, but here it is, in the event it gets deleted.) "1931 HUPMOBILE S TYPE -$16000 (MAYVILLE) 1931 HUP EXCELLENT CONDITION 39,000 MILES, MANY MANY SPARE PARTS HAVE HAD THE CAR 44 YEARS NEEDS TO GO TO A NEW FAMILY. ONLY TRADE I WOULD BE INTERESTED IN WOULD BE A MIDI EXCAVATOR. THANKS FOR LOOKING."

It is for a 1925 Rickenbacker, but I am not sure if that will help anyone.

If anyone has a radiator or gas cap for sale, measuring 1-15/16" inside diameter with 16 threads per inch, please let me know. I prefer a plain bakelite cap without a motometer, but I will consider all options. Thank you, Kyle

Thanks for the replies. I was just curious because it is an odd law and not a well known one. ArticiferTom, PA is 3,000 lbs. gross weight, Maine is 3,000 lbs. empty. So, my 10,000 lbs. gross trailer that weighs 2,000+ lbs. empty does not require inspection with Maine registration. However the way this law reads, if you only have one trailer, it has to be registered in PA.

There are many people in Pennsylvania that register their car trailers out of state, Maine being the perfect and common example. I do like the perks of registering in Maine, about the same price for registering between Maine and PA, but no inspection for anything under 3,000 lbs. empty NOT gross. When you use your car trailer half a dozen times a year, annual inspection seems ridiculous. Has anyone seen this law, and if so what is your understanding of it? For (i) It seems like a 50% law to me, if you have 2 trailers, 1 must be registered in PA and the other could be registered out of state. My biggest question, how is an officer or DOT officer going to prove this if cited for it? Drive to your house or within 24 hours, make you show them you have additional trailers registered in the commonwealth? Section 1302.16 is the only place in the PA Laws that cover out of state trailer registration, that I have found. Pennsylvania Code CHAPTER 13 - REGISTRATION OF VEHICLES Section 1302. Vehicles exempt from registration. (16) Any trailer registered in another state towed by a motor vehicle registered in this Commonwealth provided: (i) the owner has as many trailers registered in this Commonwealth as combinations so registered; or (ii) the towing vehicle is being operated under a permanent lease to a person meeting the requirements of subparagraph (i).

I apologize I wrote that wrong. I'm here to carry on the hobby, but you currently won't see me at many events because of having young children and working 50 hours a week to afford life, children, and my antique cars. I live in York, PA, with plenty of local car shows. However most weekends are spent doing fun things, geared more towards children, type of activities. I do hit a couple shows but not many.

I am also very lucky my grandfather was a train collector. When he passed away, he willed me his best, most favorite, and collectable train, the Lionel State Cars. I'm not sure of the model year they were made, but I have them mounted on my basement wall for safe keeping. Can anyone provide information on them?

On a side note, I am worried less about the hobby (knowing it will continue), and more about how to keep my wife from finding out how much I spend on old cars! Probably an age old topic.

I think there is two seperate topics to be looked at. #1 concerns about the younger generation at club/region meets and #2 concerns about the younger generation carrying on the collector car hobby. I unfortunately fall into #2. I only took my Rickenbacker to one show....Hershey, last year, that is it. With two children, life is busy. However, I do know a few others my age range, that have antique cars, and have never taken them to a car show for much of the same reasons as I. The younger generation is out there and will prevail in the hobby in my opinion, you just might have to wait until they age to see them at meets.

Did you get the body back yet? I was quickly reading the comments and didn't see anything, but I could have missed it.

I am 32 years old and love the collector car hobby. I have loved old cars ever since I was young. Granted I owe everything to my father, keeping my interest, and spending the time to teach me about working/restoring cars and trucks. I by far do not know everything and will never claim too, but I also will never give up when my cars really frustrate me with their 90 year old problems. My father enjoys all cars, but he was born and grew up in the muscle car era, which I feel where he gravitates more too. I however, always had a love and passion for 20s and 30s cars/trucks. Like many young kids these days, they start out with the newer vehicles and are more into customizing, which I followed in the same foot steps when I was young. I had a 1989 Jeep Wrangler, lifted with 35" tall tires, but then I purchased my 1928 Chrysler, went a few more years, bought a 1933 Plymouth Streetrod, went a few more years, and purchased my 1925 Rickenbacker. I recently sold the streetrod and I am moving forward with sole interest in the antique collector car hobby. What I am trying to get at, is the collector car and train hobby will never diminish. Will it have its up and downs with popularity, absolutely, but as long as the kids are into cars, some will always gravitate over to the antique cars. I do agree with what some have to say about the "Don't Touch" and the general grumpy old men. I always try to take my two boys to car shows, I have taught them not to touch, so that is not an issue. However, when you have a 1.5 year old crying or screaming, and old people tell you to shut the kid up, do they not realize you need to start them young, or do they not realize they were once a kid. As a previous person stated, most people are very gracious and welcoming to children, as they should be. I still remember a gentleman complaining about not taking his truck to a show because the general public was all over the vehicle and the kids always want to touch and look inside, but the next topic he talks about is the diminishing population of the car hobby! Yes, scratches suck from careless people touching your car, and it requires more time to buff out, but keep in mind, that one child may be hooked for life on antique cars and be willing and able to carry the hobby! Just my two cents.

Also looking at that Carter BB Service Procedure for updraft, would the carburetor not be functioning properly because the choke linkage is not connected.

lozrocks - that is exactly what I needed. The Carter BB Service Procedure for updraft is an exact step by step procedure for people like myself.

I actually came across another problem, I have not yet pulled apart the carburetor, however last weekend I was running the engine for 20 minutes or so. I have the choke on because that is the only way it will run now, but other than it running rich due to the choke being on, the temperature was good as well as the oil pressure. No problems there. Then I started to hear what sounded like a knock to me, towards the front of the engine. I quickly turned the engine off, and smoke started to come out the cap where you fill the oil at. I opened that up, let the smoke come out, and saw a bunch of metal shavings. So, I took off the valve covers and saw metal shavings in there. Now I am dead in the water and not sure where to start. I just had replaced the oil pan gasket, so I know everything appeared in order and good inside.

Jon, Can you jump over and look at the thread for "1928 Chrysler 72 - Engine & Title Number", billnoon had posted pictures of his 1928, 72, and his carburetor looks similar. Looking similar obviously doesn't mean they are the same, but can you tell his type? Obviously I am no expert either, and I will check mine out tonight to see exactly what type it says. For all I know it could be off of something in the 1930's. I am just taking off with the restoration, where a gentleman left off and sold to me. I had sort of figured in the back of my mind, I was looking at rebuilding the carburetor, but I just wanted better advice before I dove in. Thanks, Kyle

I am trying to get my 1928 Chrysler Model 72, engine running. It is not completely restored yet; however last night I had it running for about 5 minutes. I had a couple of issues and maybe this is the way it is suppose to function because I think it is an automatic carburetor. I read in another post that these carburetors do not like E-10 gas, which I am using. I was going to post on his thread, but didn’t want to steal it going in a different direction. Can someone explain to me how a 1928 carburetor is supposed to work and function? The following is my procedure from last night: 1) When the choke is on, if I go to open it, it revs the engine up, and does not allow for me to open it wide. 2) Every time I mess with the accelerator (on right in picture), or what I am assuming is the accelerator, it cuts the engine off because the choke is closed. 3) So, I left the choke be for 5 minutes, let the engine warm up, and then tried simultaneously opening the choke and lifting the accelerator from the carburetor. This caused the engine to die and back fire. 4) Once the engine shut off, it started dumping a steady stream of gas out the bottom of the carburetor. I had the engine running by sitting a gas can on the ground and running a hose from the top of the vacuum canister to the gas can. So, I shut off the valve at the bottom of the vacuum canister and that eventually stopped the leak, but if I would have left that valve open, would it have dumped all the gas out that was being held in the vacuum canister? 5) Is this the way that style of carburetor is to operate? I am use to being able to control the choke and if you open it wide to soon, it shuts the engine off, not revs it up to a very high rpm. When the gas drained out of the bottom, did this mean it was getting flooded, or do I have another problem? 6) On the top of the vacuum canister, there is a line that passes through the firewall, but I do not have that connected, and not sure what it gets connected to or its function? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Kyle