krazykat

Well I think that this is good enough. After seeing this pic on an assembled wheel, I totally agree with Sagefinds that the wedges my friend needs for his 1922 Hupmobile R is for the 210 wheel. Also as Sage find kindly indicated, theses ate also used on wood spoke early twenties Essex, Studebaker, Paige, Chalerts and some mid twenties Dodges. My friend will be looking for a full set of this C-37S wedge. Thanks all that responded.

Almost have this figured out...first off, I spelled Hupmobile two ways in my posts to try to catch any different spellings. Kindly, one member gave me the likely correct answer. The rim is a model Hayes 210 and the clamp is a C-37S. Member "Sagefinds" was kind enough to post a pic if you look under "Hupmobile", you can see quite well. Cheers Charlie

That's a lot of information and greatly appreciated. I have a felloe in an electrolyte bath to de-rust and the closest measurement I could get was 23 1/2" on the inside so must be 24's. This is very good help and much appreciated from all. I do have one worry. ..though I'm confident about removing the rust off the felloe with electrolysis, I'm concerned with submerging the inner rim complete withe wood spokes. The spokes appear to be splayed out on the rim end and not easily removed. I wonder if I need to resort to sandblasting. The spokes look to be in serviceable condition.

Well I don't exactly know how to measure. I'm assuming that you don't mean width, so would measuring the felloe diameter answer your question? Not meaning to sound daft, just never dealt with this type of wheel. Thanks Charlie

Jim, You are the best. Please let me know the wheel manufacturer if you know it. Cheers Charlie

Hi, I believe that my friend has a '22 touring and the car is half in pieces. I did see the top but it was mostly covered in it's cloth. Pretty sure it should have it's bows. He was talking about having it recovered. He wants to change from the disc wheels to wood spoke. He has everything except the wedges. Do you by chance have one that you can send a picture of? Thanks Charlie

So, it turns out that he doesn't have the correct wedges in the spare parts. Still, we are making progress with the help we've gotten so far. Any other tips are appreciated.

Looking for mounting hardware for wood wheels (wedges) for a 1922 Hupmobile open car. Also, need a grab bar for the seat back. Does anybody know what company made their wheels? Thanks Charlie

Great and thank you. I'm guessing that the wedges may be used with the six studs on the inner portion of the wheel. I'll put my friend on the hunt for the hardware. Honestly, I've never messed with wood spoke wheels but my friend is pushing 80 and can use a little of my help. He also needs the "grab bar" on the back of the front seat...again, this car is a '22 open car. Thanks

My friend picked up a '22 Huppmobile open car mostly as a basket case. My son volunteered to remove the rust from the wheels. The wheels are apart withe the exception that the spokes are still in the rim. Our problem is that while there are rims with spokes, there are also other rims that are split and somehow seem to be part of the assembly. Where these larger rims come together, there is what appears to be an alignment key riveted on to each side of the mating split. Threre appears that some sore of fastening logs may be misplaced as I have no idea how the larger outer rim part mates to the smaller rim that supports the spokes, . I'm wondering if someone has a view of the individual parts of the wheel assembly that they can share? I don't doubt that the parts are there but we would like to make one search for all the wheel parts. My son has agreed to derust the steel parts and refinish the spokes, which appear to be in decent shape. We will not be mounting the tires. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please respond on this thread and not pm as my email has changed, though can be provided on request

So, where does one find obsolete brake springs anyhow. I broke a shoe return spring on my '29 President and went down to an established brake and clutch rebuilder here in Seattle but no spring. The counter guy took one look at it and spouted the part number then added that they hadn't had any for over twenty years. At the local NAPA store, I looked at perhaps a couple hundred pics of brake springs but no match. The one that is in need seems to measure 6 15/16" 1/8" wire, 4" long coil that has an OD of 5/8". Candy cane style hook on each end. After exhausting all other local sources, I need professional help...

Okay, so I got these wheels when I bought my '29 President. They were on the car and they look similar to my wire wheels but are 40 welded spoke rather than 60 and threaded. They are 20 inch like President wheels but I don't see a listing for 20 inch on the other models. Any ideas out there...? Thank you for looking.

Should have stated Studebaker on the tailight...

I have a pair of 40 spoke, 20 inch wheels with snap rings for what I believe to be for a 1929 Commander or Dictator in pretty decent shape...$90 each. Also have a complete rear end from the same that I am willing to sell components off of. The drums are 14"...has brakes, axles, gears etc...make offer.

Looking for a tailight for my President. The metal on the one I have is cracked and not repairable. Years ago, I saw a guy at a swap meet selling reproduction bezels and buckets but he seems to have vanished. Any leads are appreciated.

I took a look at the UUR-2 being offered and I'm impressed. Though my car didn't come with the brass version, I don't like the thought of living in fear of not if but rather when, my die-cast carb will fail. While a full restoration isn't really in order for my car, the goal is to simply make it into a mostly original but nice driver. Of course, as a matter of safety, I'm willing to go with a non stock carbureator. My question now however, is, are the "R" versions that are rebuilt, really going for over $3K? If I want to go with the brass carb, should I bite the bullet on this one because that's what they are going for, or should I wait for a good used "R" version to come up? If the latter, what should I plan on paying for one? From where I'm sitting, I can't really see Pebble Beach.

Don't tell me... you post a request for a specific part, then you get a response that says something like "I have the item you are looking for". Other sites warn of this specific scam but I'm not sure why this one does not. Typically, it comes from "jimsrestoration" or similar. Scams often contain similar phrases or language patterns, mispellings, etc. It would be beneficial for everyone to become familiar with the typical scam approach.

Looks like the mystery is just about solved...the wheel, I think, should have sixty spokes. To have a better idea if the ring is the correct one, you might attach a pic of the ring where it comes together...a close-up would be good.

My friend has been storing "stuff" on one of his vacant lots for about sixty years. I asked about one of the piles and he told me that at the bottom of it was a logging donkey, made out of a Franklin. I got a camera and reached in to take a few pics and though it was tough, managed to get a few "restricted" shots. My friend indicated that he would be wiling to sell off the donkey and I was just wondering, first off, if it was indeed made out of a Franklin and secondly, if anyone might need any of the parts. I might be able to get more pics but there is a lot that would have to be moved. Not impossible but not for the faint of heart, either. This is in Seattle... If not a Franklin, what is it? One other hint is that the cowl to firewall joint, in front of the intake door is fastened with a row of round head rivets. The motor is a six cylinder. Not really able to get a shot of the right side of the engine.

Sounds like very good advice. The more I learn about these carbs, the more I think I should try to have a UUR-2 built specifically for my car. A private party might come through and sell me a core that I can in turn, send to a shop, as I am not sure that I'll find a rebuilder that would sell me one outright. Thanks for your perspective...

After reviewing the pics I received on the UU2, I decided to pass after seeing what appears to be a classic sign of intergranular corrosion on the body and crack on the float bowl top. Looks to have been bathed in WD-40 before the pics were taken and the unit has loose screws, Not that it's a bad thing but someone has had it open. It might have a little life in it but not $500 worth...

Thanks for the tip...I did some checking on this one but nothing there right now. Those Stromberg carbureators in the UU2 and UUR2 variety can be pretty tough to locate at times. I have my fingers crossed on one lead with a gentleman that might be able to help me...

Want to buy...one UU-2 or UUR-2 for my '29 Studebaker. Needs to be in at leasr rebuildable condition. My UU-2 is complete but alas, it has the sickness.

Thank you Rex, I think I'll get a drawing from the archive to kick around the idea. Please let the word out if you get around to producing some mats as I may likely choose not to. So many owners carpet the front and I might also but I would like a reproduction mat in place first.

Thank you Mark...I don't know how I missed the part on the Schrock site, but sure enough, it's there. Not sure what to do about the mat...sure would like to try to get the factory dimensions but it might turn out to be more trouble than it's worth. I'll dig a little deeper into it. Who knows, I might get lucky.