ceejay

46 super is 248 straight eight

HI all, Many thanks for all your input. This is not about how to make my new dipstick work for my engine... I know how to do that... I want to find out why these 2 dipsticks are different. The broken one which was on the car, has these numbers above the FULL mark 1942-40-50 It is broken below the full mark, at one of the drilled dots. The new dipstick does not have any drilled dots, is flat all the way through and has this part number above the full mark 1342302. This is the listing I bought mine from NOS 1940 - 53 BUICK OIL DIPSTICK STRAIGHT 8 1342302 X48 | eBay it is advertised as being correct for a 46 Super which my car is.

HI all, The dipstick on my engine had a crack in it when i bought the car. Recently I bought one on e-bay which was advertised as being suitable for my 46. When I look at the new dipstick and the one on my car, the new one is made of flat metal and the one on my car is made of round rod. The new flat one has a part number on it and my old one has 1942 stamped on it. Most importantly, when the sump is filled with the correct amount of oil, the old round dip stick shows the level at the FULL mark where as the new dipstick's full mark is way below this so the level shows several inches above the full mark... Your thought on this please

HI all, Thanks for your input. I did not install new hoses but they seem to be free of blockage. Usually when hoses get blocked, it is difficult to bleed the brakes as the flow of fluid is poor and also with use, the brake bind as the fluid does not return to the master cylinder. I have neither of these symptoms. However, the wheel cylinder and master cylinder sizes are suspect. The previous owner had sleeved the wheel cylinders and I just installed new seals to the same size as what was in there. I'm not sure if they have sleeved it to an incorrect size. The master cylinder on the car was a 3/4" internal diameter british lockheed master cylinder and I replaced it with a new one of the same type. Here again, im not sure if the 3/4" size is correct for the car. Also the brake lining material i'm using may be too hard.. I'm guessing that all of these combined, could be causing the bad brakes. Would greatly appreciate it if someone can tell me correct internal sizes for the wheel cylinders and master cylinder

At first, after installing the new master cylinder and rebuilding the wheel cylinders, I was running the car with the brake linings that were on it. They were not worn off and had bedded in well so I figured I may as well use them Then after having this in effective brake issue from the start, it was decided that maybe the linings were old. When inspected after some use, the linings and the drums were "polished" so it was decided to get the shoes re lined. The new liners have bedded in now but still the brakes are the same. The brake pedal is hard... not spongy but even with a lot of effort, it doesn't slow the car down much. Can you guys tell me.. what diameter seals should the wheel cylinders and the master cylinder use ?

Hi all, I am having "trouble" with the brakes on my 46 4 door super. New master cylinder, all new seals in all wheel cylinders. The pedal requires a LOT of effort and does very little to stop the car. Even with a lot of effort on the pedal, the wheels can not be locked... the car does slow down but it is no where near enough braking. Just wondered what the brakes are supposed to be like on these cars.

LOL yes I am well used to the "art" of double clutching, as I drive a lot of classic British cars and even with all new parts in the transmissions, they need double clutching !! Would be nice to have the Buick trans working as it was when it was new though. I have made contact with a source who might have NOS gear wheels and synchronizers. If that doesn't work out, I will dismantle my trans and look into the possibility of manufacturing new synchronizers.... would there be a good demand for them if I made new ones ? I re-manufacture obsolete parts for the classic industry when required.

Hi, Thanks for your help. I did go through that oil change routine... didn't help much. There was no oil in the trans to begin with !!! so the synchronizers are pretty much gone. I was just thinking the same thing... there are so many parts we need when we come to restore a car which are near impossible to find... like the synchronizers. But there must be stacks and stacks of NOS synchronizers spread all over the world just sitting on a shelf forgotten ... if only they could call out to us !!

Hi all, The 3 on the tree transmission on my 46 Super needs a rebuild... Some one I know has a 3 on the tree trans from a 48/49 Roadmaster which is in very good condition. Is that any different to the trans in my car ? Did they change gear ratios between years / models or did they only change the final drive ratio ? If this 48/49 trans. is not correct for my car, any idea where I can get new synchromesh cones and may be gear wheels for my trans. ? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you