Machiner 55
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Posts posted by Machiner 55
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Perhaps a couple of teeth on the rack have sheared off. When the pinion gear hits that spot, the steering wheel is allowed to spin freely. The rack then moves a bit and the pinion teeth reengage with the undamaged teeth on the rack. Or...
the pinion is allowed to back away from the rack, for whatever reason, temporarily disengaging from the rack. Maybe.
John F.
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What kind of dog?
John F.
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Well, it appears that the Reattas went to winter in Florida. Mystery solved.
John F.
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I agree with Harry. A loose or missing pinch-bolt at the coupling would be the most likely cause.
John F.
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Brett,
So... In a nut shell, what was the root cause of the problem and how was it fixed?
John F.
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You should try a Kawasaki 440 snow mobile at WOT on a frozen lake. At 70 mph the speedo is almost unreadable. At 75 panic sets in. :eek:
BTW what's a Fiero?
John F.
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Bob,
That is a most unusual symptom. It has to be a mechanical malfunction.
Although unlikely, the bolts/brackets for the rack & pinion unit are loose/broken.
the coupling between the steering column and the R&P unit has become undone or
the splines between the steering wheel and shaft have sheared.
Perhaps even the rod ends at the steering knuckle have come off.
All the above is unheard of and unlikely as far as I know but what else could it be?
John F.
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Lee,
Until this morning, I didn't know they existed. Hard to believe the empty weight is only 588#!
And yes, I do think they belong together.
John F.
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Looks like it's in great shape, what a beauty! Great color combo-NICE!
The car as well.
Another pilot finds the Reatta to his liking. Hmmm... Interesting.
John F.
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Talk to Daves89
John F.
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The wires to the lighter are held in place by a large clip at the base of the lighter. Sometimes this clip comes off and it needs reattached. The plastic that the clip is made of cracks and the clip lets go. I think you can access it by pulling the "tub" from the console. Using a flashlight and inspection mirror you can see whether it is attached or not. It's close quarters in there. If you see that it's not connected you may have to pull the console panel out to fix.
John F.
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That E6000 is some pretty good stuff. Can be found at hardware/home supply stores as well as WalMart and such. The only complaint I have with it is that it's thinner (runny) than I'd like. But, it stick to just about anything and stays stuck. Seals as well.
John F.
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Thanks Harry, but that won't be necessary now. I've had an adjustment to my meds. All better now.
Also, just kidding about the bucket. There's a toilet in the powder room on the main floor.
And, Oh happy days! Just finished grouting the tiles and in three days I can seal it then install My new
toilet.John F.
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Just an exercise in hyperbole.
John F.
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Russ,
Thanks for providing the part numbers from the bags included with your compressor. Had I received those same parts, I would not have been in the predicament that I was in. Your part numbers match the part numbers listed in the instructions. NONE of the bags included with the compressor that I bought did. Even the two included seals one might consider " Black" came in a bag with the part number 89019385. That number doesn't appear anywhere in the instructions. Maybe one of those was to be used on the installation but were in a mis-marked bag. Who knows? There is also a mention of a " Yellow" seal. Although it isn't used in our installation, it was nowhere to be found in any of the included bags but was mentioned as being in the bag with the " Green" and " Red seals". This omission just added to the confusion. So, " What's the point?" you ask.
The point is, that whoever packaged the compressor didn't include the correct parts needed for the installation. Add that to the fact that this was the first time I'd encountered this kind of morphodite assembly and well, there you go.
Yah, it's OK to say burn the instructions once you've figured out through trial and error what works and what doesn't, that doesn't fix the issue or make it any easier for the guy (gal) trying to install a compressor with this adapter/retro-fit kit who hasn't, through design or by chance, reads these posts. We are fortunate to have this Forum and the ROJ Forum with it's associated Reatta Store at our fingertips. I am of the opinion that parallels Russ and Harry. The compressor should stay but, Ron, you may want to add a note of some sort on your page that there may be an issue with the appropriate seals to be used when assembling the manifold (Hose Block) to the compressor and maybe provide a link to this thread so that people will be aware of this issue before the compressor arrives on their doorstep. What really should be done is, someone buy the compressor. Check to see that all the correct parts(spacer/seals) and adapters are there in the properly marked bags. Take the ones used on our cars out, measure them and take photos of them. Maybe even show how they are assembled. Make a few easily understood notes of this assembly and then post it on both Forums then linked to TRS. THEN... take a four pound sledge and with one powerful swing, smash the compressor. Rough up the box that it came in and send it back with a note stating that it must have been damaged during shipment and you want a refund.
Now, you might suggest that I take on this project seeing as I have a pretty good idea of how it should come together but... I just don't have the time.
Especially when you consider that it takes me hours just to type out posts like this. Couple that with the bathroom project my wife has me doing currently and you can see how I'm not the best candidate for the task. What would have taken a tile floor guy a week to accomplish has taken me about a month. That's a long time to go without a toilet in the bathroom what with all the poop'n inna bucket and all.
John F.
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RRR,
I see now where in the instructions it mentions the 1.2mm (3/64") clearance. (I have one of those inch/fractional/mm calipers. (They're Great!) It's in line #4 along with the torque value. Since it was about a year and a half ago that I did this I must have forgotten about it.
(I'm guessing now that the "Black" Spacer/Seal (sealing washer) was included in the bag marked P/N6571620, yes?)Or, it's Black (thinnest) at top and Red (medium thickness) at bottom. The thin Black at top looks just about right for the 0.050 manifold to compressor clearance.OK... The instructions call for the use of a "Black" (52418568) spacer/seal on the suction port This is the upper port (relatively speaking once the compressor is mounted). On the included "Green" instruction sheet (there was a " Green" sheet and a " White" sheet included with the compressor) there is an application chart for the sealing washers.
The "White" instruction page says that for the Suction /Discharge hose block configuration (Manifold) with the ""Flat face hose block with short pilots", which is what I have on my '90, I should Use Kit Part Number:
6571620 OR 52390928
6571621 OR 52390926
My understanding was that these kits were to contain the "Black", "Silver" and "Green" Spacer/Seals as well as the Long and Short inserts. For what ever reason, my compressor came with three separate bags of Seal Washer Kits. NONE of them were labeled with any of the part numbers listed above.
The part numbers of the kits provided me were:
P/N 89019384, P/N 89019386 and P/N 89019385 as shown in the attached photo.
There was no kit number 6571621 or 52390927 with "Black" sealing washers included with the compressor I bought. There is however bag with two dark colored seals (could be "Black") but the kit number P/N 89019385 isn't listed as being used for any manifold configuration, especially mine. That seal kit as well as seal kit # 89019386 with two small Silver Spacer/Seals was set aside early on in the decision process to help eliminate a bit of the confusion. That left the bag with P/N 89019384 with the long and short inserts as the only option. It's from this bag that I determined which Spacer/Seal (washer) to be used. The "Silver" Spacer/Seal had an OD that was too large to fit the compressor so that left the "Red" (Orange) ring to be used where the instructions said a "Black" one was to be as the "Green" one was to be used in conjunction with the short insert on the discharge port. This is the lower position. It never occurred to me at the time that I was to take one of the two dark colored ("Black") rings from a bag that isn't listed in the instructions but, then again, I was already using parts from another bag that wasn't listed in the instructions anyway... See what I'm saying about being frustrated and angry. Here's a 15 minute job of attaching the manifold block to the compressor that was taking hours just to find the correct retro-fit adapter parts configuration from bags that didn't have the part numbers listed in the (poorly assembled/written) instructions. Now... I'm really pissed off because, thanks to RRR (No... really... thank you!), I see that I wasn't provided with the correct bag of parts to begin with. Notice: In his photo of the parts bag (Post #37) The part number P/N 6571620 IS listed on the "White" instruction page as one of the kits to use. This bag was NOT included with my compressor. To further confuse things here... I just noticed that the "White" instructions included with his compressor DOESN'T list that bag. Now... how about that!?
I've include with this post, pics of the parts bags and instruction sheets that came with my compressor. Notice how the
Kit Part Numbers On my "White" instruction sheet differ from his "White instruction sheet.
It lists:
2724887 OR 52380416
2724575 OR 52380414 as the kit part numbers required to retrofit. Huh!
WTF! yah, that's right... I said WTF!
So, right now, I'd like to know how RRR determined that this was the correct parts bag to use for his installation. How many bags were included with the compressor he bought. Just this one or, like me, three? Did his compressor also include the Green set of instructions or just the White one he posted? Was the "Black" seal included in the same bag as the "Green" one? Was there a "Red" (Orange) one in the same bag?
The reason I keep bringing up the "Green" instruction sheet is that there is a reference to "Sealing Washer Kit Part Number 6571621 or 52390927". The contents of which are "(2) 5/8" Sealing Washers 52418568* 1988-9". The significance of this is that on the "White" instruction sheet, P/N 6571621 is one of the Kit Part Numbers Requires To Retrofit. More significant is the little asterisk (*) after the seal part number 52418568*<.
There are two notes below the chart. The one with the single asterisk says " 52418568 Sealing Washer Metal Retainer is Colored " Black" For Identification purposes". Huh!
Perhaps I was supposed to use one of these two dark (Black) colored washers on the Suction side of the manifold as per the "White" instructions? Maybe... But the "Green" instruction sheet says that they are for years 1988 and 1989. Mine is a 1990. Also, the bag that they are in is labeled P/N80919385. No mention of parts from that bag number being used ANYWHERE! ... Hmmmm ...
Maybe RRR's P/N 6571620 bag had all the correct conversion parts in it. Probably would have helped him if the included instructions
reflected that.
A request. RRR, if there was another " Black" Spacer/Seal in one of your bags, could you take a micrometer or dial caliper measurement for me. I don't want a reading from the one that was used in the assembly. But, if there were two in the bag, a reading from the one that wasn't used would be nice. I measured both from the bag marked P/N 89019385 and they measure 0.1210" to 0.1230" . Thanks.
Ronnie, this is nobody's fault except the folks that designed and wrote the botched instruction set and those who packaged and marked the bags. Once they got put in the box with the compressors and shipped off well, that's the end of the blame train.
Everything I have was marked " Made in China" . I see the bag that RRR posted is marked " Made in Mexico" . What's a Mother to do?
Hopefully Harry, who has offered to do a write-up, can sort through all of this and make sense of it for us. That will only work if the compressor came with the correct and properly marked parts assortment. Now that I think about it, if that were the case in the first place, this exercise would be moot.
One more thing. Having reconsidered all of this, I don't know that the "Red" (Orange) Spacer/Seal is the correct one to have on the suction side of the (my) compressor. With the instructions written as they were and the parts bags being labeled as they were, this was the best solution I could make at the time. I concluded that either the coloring on the seal was wrong or the text was wrong but, because it seemed to fit and the manifold (Hose Block) appeared parallel to the compressor face when the attachment bolt was torqued to value, that it was correct. It's been working without leakage but, If I'm going to leave the photos I posted of the installation up on the Forum, I need to make a note that it is either correct or not correct. Or, I could change the wording and photo-chop the color from "Red" (Orange) to "Black". Or just delete the whole thing. Once we get this sorted out I'll make the appropriate adjustments. I just hope that in the meantime, no one takes it as gospel. At least not yet.
On another note. Like harry said, it's easier to assemble the manifold to the compressor then attach the compressor to the mounts on the engine (with fan and radiator removed). This way you can be sure that the connection and seals are correct before attempting to do it on the car with limited space, visibility and awkward positioning. In my case, when I attempted to attach the compressor, I found the the bracket for the front motor mount interfered with the bolt to bolt-hole alignment. I attributed this to the manifold hose block sticking out further from the compressor than it was originally. I ended up removing the AC manifold from the compressor and, using a cutting burr in an air powered die grinder, removing material from the bracket, trial fitting, until I had enough clearance for the pipes. (photo #4 of post #32). The bracket is made from aluminum and shaved down easily. The original port protection cover that came with the compressor came really handy for this to keep the chips from getting into the holes.
Just so you know how slow and dull I am (or is it dull and slow...?), it's taken almost four hours to compose, type, recompose, retype and attach a pic to this post. Add to that, that I started thinking about making this post last night after work. (GOD, I'm beat.)
That's about average for me.
John F.
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Harry,
There should be a minimum 1/16" gap between the manifold and the compressor when tightened down.I wish they would have inserted that statement in the instructions. Would have made a world of difference in understanding that the installation was correct.
Personally, I really didn't care for seeing that gap. Made me thing that there was something wrong with the choice of spacer/seal rings. But, even though it looked wrong, it was the only combination of spacer/seals that made any sense. To me, it looks like a good way to snap the manifold in half.
John F.
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I'm really very tired tonight so all I'm going to post is this... the colors of the seals may appear different when viewed on different computer screens.
My eyeballs told me that the colors of the seals I used are - one Green and one Orange (Orange could be interpreted as Red).
And yes, I too felt that the instructions were somewhat confusing. So, don't feel "stupid" Frustrated certainly but not stupid. I too would have been happier with the OE setup but, as I mentioned to Ron some time ago, it probably made more sense to the manufacturer of the compressor to come up with a "Universal" compressor body and throw in some adapters as opposed to casting and machining different bodies for each application. It also saves on shelf space.
Good night.
John F.
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RRR,
I'm not sure which model year you are working on but the manifold that attaches to the compressor may be different than what's on my 1990 Reatta. That being said, the photos below show what needed to be done to mount the '90 manifold to the new "Universal" compressor. The new compressor ports are stepped in such a way that the adapter that was included in the packet with the seal assortment had to be used. The adapter is a small aluminum ring that is press fitted into the manifold. It is used or not used depending on the vehicle the compressor is being installed on. The instructions weren't clear on which seals to use or perhaps the color code mentioned in the instructions didn't match the colors of the seals. So I chose the ones that seemed to make the most sense for the installation. Hope this helps.
John F.
..............Photo#1.............................................Photo #2............................................Photo #3.
..............Photo #4............................................Photo #5.
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CG,
Check out this link to Ronnie's site. Lots of interesting stuff there gathered over almost a decade.
John F.
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To which picture are you referring?Targa tops are different from T-tops, which have a solid, non-removable bar running between the top of the windscreen and the rear roll-bar, and generally have two separate roof panels above the seats that fit between the window and central t-bar.Targa top, targa for short, is a semi-convertible car body style with a removable roof section and a full width roll bar behind the seats. The term was first used on the 1966 Porsche 911 Targa,[1] and it remains a registered trademark of Porsche AG.[2]
The rear window is normally fixed, but on some targa models, it is removable or foldable, making it a convertible-type vehicle. Any piece of metal or trim which rises up from the side of a car and continues in an uninterrupted line over the roof and down the other side is sometimes called a targa band, targa bar or a wrapover band.
Not to be confused with T-top.
A T-top (UK: T-bar) is an automobile roof with a removable panel on each side of a rigid bar running from the center of one structural bar between pillars to the center of the next structural bar. The panels of a traditional T-top are usually made of auto grade safety glass. The T-top was patented by Gordon Buehrig on June 5, 1951.[1] It was used in the design of the unsuccessful TASCO sports car.[2]
Not to be confused with Targa top.
John F.
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Why were T-tops not considered?
I once owned an '83 Datsun 280ZX with a T-top. Liked it, Best of both worlds.
De-latch the panels, slide'm in their bags, secure the bagged panels in the hatch and away you go. Air in your hair and everything!
John F.
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I did the Ebay thing that Jon and McR mention for spare keys for my '90.
John F.
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John F.
looking for parts for a reatts
in Buick Reatta
Posted
The weather in IL. is just as sucky as it is in the God-forsaken land known as NWI. but, we still don't know what kind of dog Darby was.
John F.