Machiner 55
-
Posts
2,086 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Machiner 55
-
-
I am happy to say someone did take me up on the offer and the cars will be leaving soon. Thank to everyone who responded.
Who, may I ask, is the lucky guy (gal)?
How are we to know if they are keeping their end of the bargain if we don't know?
John F.
-
I think this might be what you are looking for.
John F.
-
Shaleradon,
"r" codes refer to the Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system. More commonly known as the Air Bag system.
r033 - Steering diode shorted in arming sensor.
ro34 - Open in Ignition feed to deployment circuit (clockspring-to-airbag wires).
John F.
-
Speegt,
The Cruise Control usually sets a code if it's a internal/external wiring issue. No codes set if it's (loss of) vacuum related.
Sometimes the barbed hose fitting on the CC solenoid breaks and allows a vacuum leak. Internally, the wires are extremely thin. Almost hair like.
It's possible that there is a break in one of them. Usually at the point where they terminate at the connector prongs. Can't see the break except with the aid of magnification. Swap solenoid with a known good one (from a salvage yard maybe) to see if the problem goes away.
John F.
-
Rustyone,
When the problem presents, does the car start better if the gas pedal is held down. If so, maybe you have leaking injector(s). This would allow gas to flood a cylinder causing a rough/difficult start condition. This is just a stab in the dark. I've not had the experience myself or even know if it's even possible.
John F.
-
PD210,
Can't recommend. Availability, brand and price will dictate.
You will have to buy the output shaft seals as they aren't included with the half-shafts.
Johh F.
-
It seems that I'm the only one (so far) that has used the RETRO-FIT head light repair kits. (middle image in post #1.)
Initially, there was an issue with the hex insert on the arms. After a couple of very cordial emails with Kingsley, the problem was resolved.
Once installed, the RETRO-FIT arms look factory and have been working flawlessly for almost two years now. I expect them to continue to do so until well after I'm no longer of this earth. These arms even come with the rectangular rubber "bumpers" that are so difficult to find these days.
Hats off to Kingsley Baker and Reatta Specialty Parts.
John F.
-
Brett,
Just a note to let you know (I think I speak for all of us) that we appreciate your updates and pics.
Thanks to all you guys and gals that take the time to post these updates
John F.
-
Beverly "Island Girl",
Dave already brought this up but I'll make it easier for you. See Post #10 in this thread
Print out the post making sure the picture is attached then take it to your Mechanic.
I did this over 9 years ago and it's still there. Using a stainless steel screw and washers there is key. Not absolutely necessary but, in your climate, I highly suggest using stainless.
John F.
-
Dave,
I did this almost nine years ago and that repair is still on the car.
Well worth the time and effort, I'd say.
John F.
-
On (not so) Good Friday, I was trying to find the source of a semi-massive fuel leak on a '90 Reatta.
Wanna see it?
. It's my very first YouTube video. Woo-Hoo!Speegt,
Awesome paint job!
John F.
-
Way to go man! Pics?
John F.
-
I hope the gremlins don't affect my '90 convertible or my 5 motorcycles that share the garage.
You must immediately and I mean immediately quarantine that car. This could be the beginning of an outbreak of an even greater magnitude than that of the recent Ebola pandemic! Sir, you have an obligation to the entire community to do the right thing and nip this situation in the bud even if it means putting down the offending vehicle. :eek:
John F.
-
:eek:!...your car is haunted and should be destroyed.
:D:D.John F.
-
Another outstanding resource is the Reatta Owners Journal
John F.
-
I recently had an issue with the pump/motor assembly on my '89.
My son was driving the car and found that he was loosing braking power intermittently then it quit completely.
There was a message on the CRT as well as codes stored but can't remember what they said exactly.
But, they led to my discovery of a failed pump/motor assembly. I didn't narrow it down to which part had failed (pump or motor)
as they come off together. Once replaced and bled, all was right with the world once again.
John F.
-
I now apply Teflon tape to the threads of the bleeder screws.
This accomplishes two things.
One. The most obvious is that come time to remove the screw it won't be frozen in the hole.
Two. The tape prevents the introduction of air when using a one man bleeder device.
John F.
-
Firewall relay?
John F.
-
R3D,
Just make sure that the ignition key on the car being jumped (the one with the dead battery) is in the OFF position. Better yet, put the key in your pocket until ready to start the car. Alternately, remove or just disconnect the battery and charge it with a charger then replace or reconnect the battery. Do this also with the key in the OFF position or in your pocket.
John F.
-
PD210,
1.) Good job!
2.) Your welcome.
3.) Gotta do this to my '90 soon. Wanted to do it this winter but my wife had other plans. And, the engine cradle (subframe) on her Olds decided to detach itself from the car body. As soon as I figure out a way to post the pics from my iPad, I'll post the dramatic images.
4.) How's the ride now that you have the stiffer cushions?
John F.
PS.,
-
Are we really debating this? To this level??
Yes. We are. Cause it's fun and interesting. It's what we do here.
John F.
-
Brett,
Wow! Gotta love that blue. Nice wheels too.
You should be commended for all of your hard work... I commend thee.
Thanks for the pics.
John F.
-
Robert,
Welcome to the Forum. There ia another site names the Reatta Owners Journal that you should check out. Lotsa great info.
1. Suspension clunk...seems to be only on potholes, no pull on steering etc..ride feels fine. Front passenger side I believe.There are a number of possibilities but the first that comes to my mind is the engine cradle insulator cushions.
John F.
-
-
1
-
:D:D.
EGR delete
in Buick Reatta
Posted · Edited by Machiner 55 (see edit history)
PD210,
Other than setting codes and an ever-present check engine light, probably won't hurt anything.
Personally, I'd just get another EGR valve for it. It's part of the emissions control system and it should be in good working order.
Ron's store (TRS) has them for around 60 bux.
Probably free shipping at that price.
Since it was "all plugged up", you should clean the adapter block and check the riser tube as well .
If you do decide to cap it, let us know what happens.
Recently replaced one myself.
Note the red marks. That's where the heads of the screws were broken off. Only one screw was holding the assembly together
This allowed hot exhaust gasses to leak out, scorching the decorative engine cover. (from '90 Reatta)
John F.