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Machiner 55

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Posts posted by Machiner 55

  1. Jimbo,

     

    You won't hear a negative peep from me.

    I'm fully interested in seeing how this project turns out.

    Not having done anything like this myself, there's nothing that I can tell you about how to go about what you are going to do.

    I'm curious about the rotisserie idea. I've always wondered about that myself.

    I've always told my kids that you can do anything with time and money. (like what Ronnie said)

    The more money you have, the less time you'll need.

     

    Good Luck.

     

    John F.

  2. Franc,

     

    If you haven't already, you should check the metal and bushings at the ends of the reaction rods (struts) that come off of the lower control arms and through the frame. Over the years, the rod rusts away into an hourglass shape at the point where it goes through the frame, weakening the metal. It may then snap off. The only way to see this is to remove the rubber bushings and the arm from the frame. Easier to do while you have the frame out in the open.

     

    John F.

    • Like 1
  3. Ron,

     

    I cannot think of anyone more deserving of this award.

    Your unselfish gift of time, effort and energy lift us all and make owning a Reatta one of the more interesting and enjoyable things in life.

    Quite an achievement. Congratulations!

     

    John F.

    • Like 1
  4. Personally I wouldn't try a tank repair. I've changed out three Reatta tanks in the last decade and i agree with Ronnie that new is the way to go since most of what's needed is still available new. Except for the aforementioned sender assembly.

    There are two way to go with that sender assy. One.  find a vendor that has one available. Prices are higher in the East. Or two, have the one you have repaired. I cant tell for sure by the pics but it looks like the metal lines need replaced. That will only work if the elbow fittings and the "lid" they are attached to are still in good shape.

     

    Gotta go to work now,

     

    John F.

  5. Just so no one feels snubbed, I PM'd him about a month and a half ago and never received a response.

     

    I did this myself some time ago. I dropped out for 4 or so years. (not that anyone noticed :unsure:)

    My Mother-in-Law passed away and we were mostly responsible for taking care of her "estate".

    In the area where she lived, cell phone service was sketchy at best and Internet service was non-existent.

    It kind of broke the "habit" of checking in daily. This in addition to getting a different vehicle which needed my love and attention well...

    I just fell away from the fold for awhile.

    This may (or may not) be what has happened with McR. Only he knows and he ain't tawkin.

     

    John F.

    • Like 1
  6. Just so you know...

    I haven't tried to change any settings anywhere on this new Forum including anything in the "Notifications" section.

    So, I don't know if selecting or deselecting any check-box changes anything or not.

    Frankly I'm afraid to change something for fear that it's not what I'd intended and won't be able to change back.

    Hopefully you guys and gals will get it all sorted out and we'll all learn something.

    Anyway, good luck.

     

    John F.

  7. Walt,

    I'd call you that but then I'd be a Liar.

    Try this...
    Once you've logged in, look at the upper RH corner where you'll find the words "Sign Out". Just to the left of that you will see your login name. In your case "waltmail". Click on "waltmail" and a drop down list will appear. At the top of the right hand list will be the words

    "My Settings". Click on "My Settings". That will take you to a page of options.
    On the left hand side of the page, there is a list starting with "Profile Settings".  Second from the bottom of that list are the words "Notification Options". Click that. That will open a page that will give you every possible way to be, or not to be, notified of everything on the Forum.
    Hope this helps.

    John F.

    • Like 1
  8. Barney,

     

    I Googled the "Pyramid" in Memphis. It is truly awesome.

    If I ever make it down that way it will be on my must see list. Thanks for the tip.

    In your first post you mentioned that your trip would take you through the northern tier of IN. to get to Chicago.

    I would have offered to meet you and buy you lunch as you passed by the Chesterton, Valparaiso, Portage exits but Comcast decided to kill my service for several hours during the appropriate time period to contact you. I have their "Triple-Play" service and it all goes down together. No phone, no internet (texting), no TV. nada. Anyway... sorry to have missed you. Maybe next time.

     

    John F.

  9. Just goes to show that when a car sits for some time, stuff really does stop working.

     

    This applies not only to cars. Remember this when you get "old".

    Many octogenarians/centenarians when asked what the secret is to living a long life, 9 times out of 10 of them will say "just keep moving!"

     

    Just sitting around just don't get it.

     

    John F.

    • Like 2
  10. Manic!!!!,

    So good to see you posting again! Heard of your health issues. Sorry to hear that but, your clever insights to problems (issues) and humorous anecdotal stories have been missed.

    How are "Panic", "Nota" and the rest doing?

    John F.

  11. Manic!!!!,

    So good to see you posting again! Heard of your health issues. Sorry to hear that but, your clever insights to problems (issues) and humorous anecdotal stories have been missed.

    How are "Panic", "Nota" and the rest doing?

    John F.

  12. Robert,

    I had an issue with a machine at work years ago. At the change of shifts, I told the day shift guy that the problem had something to do with the air flow to an actuator. The next day I came in and the problem was even worse. I asked him what all he did. He said he installed new air lines, new fittings, new valve assembly etc. So... I fought a jamming machine for half a shift before deciding to go through everything he replaced. I found a brand spanking new brass "T" fitting that wasn't drilled completely through on one leg. Replaced it with another new one that I checked had been made properly and the machine ran flawlessly after that.

    New parts don't necessarily mean good parts.

    My suggestion is to check the "T". If good, then check all of the other Vac. lines and the points where they connect. Once you are certain there are no leaks, then play the game I call "What else could it be?".

    John F.

  13. Mike R.,

    I didn't know you guys were still in business. I will certainly keep you in mind for my next parts search.

    I may have you confused with another provider down there but, I was looking for a front bumper not too long ago, called and spoke with someone named "Roger" or some such. He took my info down and said he'd get back with me. Never did. Tried a follow-up call, all went to voicemail. Quit trying.

    Regarding the Tx shift cable. I posted a fix that I perforned on my '89 almost a decade ago and it still functions as it should today. The cost was under five bucks and took about two hours tops. It took me longer to write up the procedure than to actually perform the task and, I didnt have to tear into the console to remove the cable from the shifter assembly and pull through the firewall. Just say'n.

    But hey... What are you asking for one of those Intermediate Cables anyway?

    John F.

  14. Now regarding availability of cables. (I went through this last year) I ordered the intermediate cable (Raybestos BC93641 from RockAuto) and got the wrong cable. I actually got the forward cable which is the one that hooks up to the pedal. I contacted RockAuto and they promptly sent me another same part number / wrong part. I contacted them again and they gave me a refund and could offer no help for the correct intermediate cable. I did some searching and came up with Wagner P/N F129671. It is the correct intermediate cable for the 1988 Reatta and they are still available.

    OK, this is news to me. I had the same problem you did. All the cross references used at the places I contacted were (are) wrong and I kept getting the front cable when what I wanted was the Intermediate cable. The Wagner P/N F129671 never came up. So, with great trepidation, I ordered this cable from My Parts Garage. com. because I need one and because I needed to see for myself that these cables can truly be had.

    As I was typing this post, I got an Email from My Parts Garage that states:

    Dear John F.,

    We are writing to inform you that your order from My Parts Garage has been canceled due to the item being out of stock and discontinued by the manufacturer.

    We are sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused you.

    http://www.mypartsgarage.com

    MyPartsGarage Customer Service

    1-800-320-3042

    Click this email mailto:customerservice@mypartsgarage.com to respond.

    Well... there you go.

    John F.

  15. Tom,

    The cable that attaches to the pedal is a PITA to change. Hopefully it's more along the lines of what Robert says.

    Just a word to the wise, If for some reason you find that you need to change the cable that connects to the "pedal" cable, be advised that that cable can no longer be had at any price. It is called the "Intermediate" cable. If you order one the part number will be cross referenced to the part number that belongs to the "Pedal" cable.

    John F.

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